John McCormack
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Posts posted by John McCormack
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2 hours ago, Rogcastle said:
Hi John
Your steering rack might need centering.
Roger
The manual just says when installing to centre the rack, not how. I just looked at the rack mounts and the flange butts up against the clamp. Is there something I'm missing here.
I see new racks are available from Moss-Europe for about 130pds. As there is also a bit of play in the pinion bush this looks like the best option if it needs repair.
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Thank you all. I have just jacked the front left wheel up under the bottom wishbone to retest it.
The only play I can find is (what I think) a bit of play in the rack on the left side. The rack has new poly bushes, it isn't the rack moving on the chassis, but play in the rack itself. It isn't much play and it was checked in April, maybe 2000klms ago, for an MOT.
I think this is where the noise is coming from but I'm not sure. I would have thought the rack play would be taken up as you start turning, not take up with a clunk when you get near full lock.
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When I turn into my garage on full right lock, or close to it, I sometimes get a clunk from the left front.
I have jacked the front up and taken the load off the suspension with a 2nd jack and can't find any play in the top ball joint/bearings etc.
Is there a common cause of such clunks in the TR6?
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11 hours ago, had17462 said:
John I had the same problem, behind your speedo angle drive you will see a coloured cog ,they have different amount of teeth hence the different ratios the speedo reads, I phoned overdrive services and he sold me the right one ,only about a tenner worth a try .
Nick.
just seen you are in Oz but I am sure they would post one out.
How do you fit it? Is it easy from underneath, or with the tunnel removed?
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Others might have this problem.
My early CP car has been fitted with a J type overdrive gearbox. The speedo drive in the box is not compatible with the speedo. I don't want to remove the box, dismantle it just to change the speedo drive.
Will a speedo from a car with a J type overdrive solve my problem to give me an accurate speedo? It would be good to get one in km/h say from a European car.
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A long shot maybe but I am after a low port head and a pair of 1 1/2" SUs to go with it. I would like a complete and restored head if possible. The carbies I want complete with all linkages. Any out there?
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19 hours ago, tim hunt said:
Yes John, only 'relatively short drives' over here, like Club Triumph's 3,200km 48 hour Round Britain Reliability Run. I look forward to telling you more about it. I haven't conducted a poll but doubt many of the six TR6 crews on this October's event listened to ICE.
Tim
Fair point Tim. Although I doubt many UK drivers go for drives over 300 kms very often.
When are you out here?
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19 hours ago, Paul Hill said:
Have to agree, you will never get a great sound with all that external noise etc so I just sit back and enjoy that straight Six
Probably Ok in a country with relatively short drives. Even the beautiful TR6 note wears thin on the 900kms between Sydney and Melbourne at 110kmh.
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My car had the radio speakers in home made cabinets on the shelf behind the seats. I have finished installing new carpets and want to locate them somewhere else out of the way if I can. There doesn't appear to be room in the panels in front of the A posts nor the fuel tank panel behind the seats.
Where have others mounted them? Photos too please if you can.
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Thank you all. I just checked and my February 1970 build CP does not have a mounting point for an inertial reel. Drilling a hole and fitting a backing plate won't be too difficult.
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22 hours ago, graeme said:
Hi John,
I would recommend the Securon belt model # 500/30. I have always mounted the reel on the wheel arch just above the rear deck.
Cheers
Graeme
16 hours ago, TRsixchris said:+1 for the Securon 500/30 belts.
Replaced my old inertia reels which didn't use the additional mount on top of the wheel arch with these and they are a vast improvement.
Got mine from these folks:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Securon-Seat-Belt-500-30-Lap-Diagonal-Belt-RED-/260462959756
Chris
Thank you both. They look the part in Black,are a reasonable price on ebay and postage to Australia not bad either. Any chance of a photo of them fitted to your cars? Cheers John
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Hi,
Can anybody recommend a brand and specifications for inertial reel seatbelts for a early 1970 CP, no headrests. I am assuming that the reel can be mounted on the wheel arch below the existing seat belt attachment.
Cheers
John
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6 minutes ago, ed_h said:
On the inboard seat mount, use the rear hole in the seat bracket. This rotates the seat slightly toward the center.
Ed
Thank you. I just checked and the inboard mount is secured with the rear hole, the outboard mount uses the front hole.
The seat is aligned towards the outboard side, the clips resting on the outboard lip of the mount on both sides.
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I have just been fitting new carpets to my 1970 PI. A couple of questions if I could please.
1st question. What is the trick to avoid the carpet crunching up when I tighten the seat belt bolt? I have cut away the underfelt to get the bolt in the seat belt mount and when I tighten the bolt the carpet gets drawn into the hole and crinkles.
2nd question. I have installed the drivers seat and find the rear catches are not centred in the catch on the floor sliding rack. The catches are resting on the right hand edge of the rack and trying to twist the seat to get the catches aligned doesn't work. I don't believe I have changed anything in the removal and installation but it looks like I have. I have had this problem once before when I had the seats out for access to the gearbox but I recall it sorted itself out. This time it hasn't so I thought I would ask in case this is a common issue and there is a simple fix.
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7 minutes ago, Mike C said:
Anything stirred up in the tank should have been caught by the main filter. Do you still have the filter fitted to the MU inlet union?
Personally I find that Australian high octane unleaded is becoming increasingly aggressive towards fuel system components-elastomers that were fine 10 years ago (various grades of nitrile etc) are now being attacked, especially by stale fuels.
There are filters between the tank and the Bosch pump, the main filter is between the pump and MU and the small one in the MU. All are quite new and/or cleaned in the past few hundred miles.
Interesting observation on stale fuel. I had been away for 11 weeks and the TR6 was left with about 1/3 tank. When I got home I took her for a quick drive and filled the tank up before setting off for another almost two weeks away leaving the 6 at home. I have been using it solidly for the past week or so before this occurred using most of a tank which is why I had just filled up.
The previous blocked injectors occurred in the first 6-12 months of ownership and it has been about 18 months since it last happened. I thought the past ones were because the car hadn't been used very often for many years and I had it sorted.
Not much I can do except bleed them as they occur. I do need to carry a spare or two in case one breaks while I am bleeding it.
How do you fit a new one to the pipe while beside the road?
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A bit of am unusual one today. I had a blocked injector, 3rd time I have had one in 2 and a bit years ownership. I drove her home about 20kms and only a 10 minute job to clear it but annoying all the same.
The past two were on 2 or 5, the usual culprits. This time it was number 6.
I had just filled her up but it wasn't near empty, from about 1/3 of a tank, so that shouldn't have stirred up any debris in the tank.
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I ended up buying new Nissan based axles and hubs made here in Australia. I have had a problem with the drivers side axle not having enough movement in the CV joint but they made new parts for me which I fitted yesterday.
I like the fit and forget of these modern axles and hubs and being worry free of bearing play and breakage problems.
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On Facebook I'm afraid. I don't normally take many as my wife and friends take heaps.
There are quite a few on the TR Register Australia website. (http://www.tr-register.com.au/)
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I just got home from the TR Register, Australia National meet in Adelaide.
My wife and I travelled in our 1954 Triumph TR2 from our home in Sydney with up to 8 other TRs and were away for 10 days.
All up we did 2037 miles, 3259 kms through NSW, Victoria and SA. I expected to do more miles but the runs around Adelaide were shorter than I anticipated.
We had a great time with old and new friends on the road and in the lovely city (or large country town) of Adelaide.
The car didn't miss a beat and used 1 litre of oil, no coolant. She averaged 30.9mpg, best was 33 cruising at 70mph with the top and sidescreens on and the worst 27.8 in the Adelaide Hills chasing other cars.
No additional rattles or squeaks (it has very few) and everything works.
The new distributor proved to be a fantastic item. The one it replaced was the original albeit overhauled a few times. It felt like I had 10-15% more power (The throttle went to the floor on only one hill where before it was a pretty regular occurrence), fuel consumption is down about 15% and the engine ran for more smoothly up to 4500-4800rpm.
The best of TR ownership. Very pleased.
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On 10/21/2018 at 3:40 AM, Garyfishburn said:
PKV 375 was listed by myself on behalf of my father. I put a start price @ £30k to see what interests it generated while we where waiting for a FIA inspection for the cars historic racing passport. This is now complete and should be with us in the next few days.
The car will be relisted soon, any further enquirers please don’t hesitate to contact me garyfishburn@icloud.com
Hi, are you able to share on here some of the providence and which parts of the car are original PKV 375 bits?
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7 hours ago, cjstoodley said:
John,
Interesting that after a 10 week tour round Europe your first priority on returning home is to "check on the cars" !!!!
Chris
I did say hello to our living at home daughter first.
The state of the cars, especially the TR2, was weighing on my mind with a 3,000 mile trip in the 2 starting Wednesday.
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I got back home last night after a 10 week absence during which the cars were untouched.
The TR2 started after a couple of cranks but the TR6 took quite a while to get going, maybe three 15-20 second cranks. But fire she did and in a short test drive today she ran sweetly, pulled powerfully to 4500rpm (my usual self imposed limit) and idled nicely.
I was concerned at the car standing for so long untouched but there don't appear to be any problems. Touch wood!
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Thanks all. I got back home from Italy last night and went out to check on the cars.
The TR2 started after a few cranks and ran well. Apart from a dicky connection on a tail light which was easily fixed she passed her MOT this morning. Not bad considering she sat untouched for 10 weeks.
The new dizzy slipped in easily. She started straight away after a static timing, a mate has my timing light so that job will be done tomorrow.
Already it is clear the idle is much improved. It is smooth down to 5-600rpm now, before around 700rpm was the minimum. A short test drive didn't reveal any issues, it is raining so a decent test drive can wait.
The TR6 was also standing for 10 weeks so took a lot of cranking to fire. But it did start and in a test drive today she ran sweetly and now starts at the touch of the key.
Pretty pleased all round.
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On 11/10/2008 at 11:02 AM, Tony Millward said:
Thanks for the heads up Guy. I also bought one from the TR Shop (also fast delivery here in Australia), to be fitted. I would have missed this.
Cheers
Tony
Hi Tony,
Another here downunder with a couple of TRs. I have a 1970 TR6 CP51049 and two TR2s, TS5038O and TS3732O.
Are you a TR Register Australia member?
Cheers
John
CLUNK FROM THE FRONT END
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Thanks Mike. The rack hasn't been out in my ownership. When I bought the car I had the previous owner have the bushes replaced which he did by a service centre known to the Triumph owners here. I can only assume they did pretension the rack. The car has been driven by a very good Triumph specialist who didn't mention anything untoward about the steering.
I take your point on new parts. They have often let me down.