John McCormack
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Posts posted by John McCormack
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The repair has been done, however, the clunk is still there. I and our trusty Triumph specialist can't figure out what it is. The knock occurs rarely, today when I changed lanes in the petrol station requiring full right lock at an almost stopped speed. It only does it with full right lock and at almost stopped speed. I suspected top ball joint but there is no play there.
I will ignore it and eventually it will let me know what it is.
The car is driving superbly, a delight in performance and handling and I am now more confident pushing the car along through corners.
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On 3/5/2019 at 7:36 AM, Mike C said:
Mine only works reliably with the stop at the tacho end. Maybe the inner cable needs restraining to stop sliding into the MU.
Yep, the stop must be at the tacho end. Many after market cables don't have a stop. I made a stop once but it is better to buy a cable with one.
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They are designed to be reamed to fit.
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10 hours ago, Rodbr said:
Checking over my stock of "Baby" Tenax fasteners. By baby I mean the very small ones used on the very early cars. I have about 50 or so of the Female part which I have been trying to find a way of cleaning prior to plating.
Checking them over has revealed a strange thing I have two or more perhaps four that have a different type of base washer. One type( the bulk of them) has the typical profile with a ridge and the two key holes for tightening them on the material. The others look the same size but have a totally different much flatter profile, Were these used at a specific location so that the material sat closer to the body or are they possibly from a different car altogether. No good asking what they were taken off eg. hood stick frame cover tonneau cover as I have no idea as they were all lose.
What would the finish have been as modern chrome is very bright and not in keeping with a more Nickel plate colour i.e. a flat/duller finish chrome?
Best regards
Rod
I think the Moss catalogue shows where they go. I have the same issue, or at least I will in a few months.
Other wise ask Jonathon Skinner at Skinners Upholstery.
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Thanks Stuart. I have a solid pipe on my daily driver TR2, no problems in 43 years.
The banjo fittings are a good recommendation, if I can't find a pipe and don't change mine over from my other car to the restoration TR2 I may well get a couple of these fittings.
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On 3/2/2019 at 4:08 AM, scousegit said:
it's my understanding that if an item is exported from the UK then there is no UK tax payable; or have got hold of the wrong end of the stick?
Jon.
You are correct. When I buy from the UK the VAT is removed and the parts are sent to Australia tax free. I then have to pay our version of VAT when it gets here.
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I am after an original solid fuel pipe that connects the two carburetors.
I am buying the carbies off a UK member so if somebody has one they are willing to part with they could be posted to him in the UK. He would then add it to the carbies to send to me.
If you could please reply to this post.
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On 2/27/2019 at 10:06 PM, roger murray-evans said:
John,
Miniscule observation is that your rocker pedestals are TR3 onwards I think,
being aluminium.TR2s had cast iron pedestals hence the differing exhaust valve settings
of TR2 .012/TR3 .010!! (probably makes not the slightest difference either!)
Roger M-E
Yes Roger. This one is from a high port head that was on my daily driver when I bought it. The head was heavily modified and the car went very well. The head swallowed a valve up through the valve seat at 110mph on the freeway 25 years ago.
Apart from the clearances they are fully interchangeable. If I find a steel pedestal one I'll get it but in terms of originality it isn't visible and has exactly the same function.
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4 minutes ago, RogerH said:
Hi John,
I believe the hole in the top is to allow a good spray of oil under the rocker cover to lubricate anything it touches.
The rocker arm it self should be well lubricated as oil is squeezed between the arm bearing and the rod shaft.
You have 6 other fountains - I wouldn't panic.
On your TR6 was it the blocking of the hole that did the damage OR did the hole get blocked due to the damage.
if in doubt drill a hole where it should be.
Roger
On the TR6 it was blocking of the hole due to dirty oil. When I bought the 6 it had done about 5000kms in the previous 22 years, and not many in the years before I got it. I changed the oil and filter and then did it again a few hundred miles later. Sometime after that I got the first blocked rocker and not realising what it was just adjusted the tappets without too much thought. When the noise returned the rocker and pushrod were severely damaged. The rocker was bone dry, not a skerrick of oil on it.
I replaced the ball pin and pushrod, cleared the others and put an oil treatment through the engine. 3-6 months or so later another one went but I picked it up before any significant damage.
I then removed the sump and cleaned the gunge out, new oil and filter, cleaned all the rockers and the shaft. No problems since. The rockers need the oil feed from the hole, especially on the exhaust valves. If it is blocked the ball pin and pushrod will give up.
However, with the TR2 rockers in the photo there is a hole underneath that releases oil next to the ball pin, nearer the shaft than the hole on top is. I just didn't see it.
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3 minutes ago, Lebro said:
Not so dumb. I would have expected all rockers to be the same (except left hand & right hand of course)
Perhaps you have a mix & match of rockers from different sources.
Bob.
I'd say they have come from different sources. These rockers were on the head of my daily driver TR2 when I bought it so I knew they were OK. I just didn't look for a hole in an unusual place.
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9 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi Rob,
is the above immediately after a run - within a couple of minutes. If not then go for a run. Get the noise and then stop, jack it up and test the wheel.
It could be a wheel bearing. Cold grease to start with. It heats up and stops lubricating.
Roger
My thoughts too.
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No ideas were forthcoming, probably because readers were waiting for me to realise my dumb mistake.
On the two rockers in question, there is a hole underneath that directs oil onto the ball pin and pushrod.
I looked underneath but only for a hole opposite the one on top.
Dóh.
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I have a set of rocker gear for my TR2 rebuild. Cleaning them up today I noticed two of the rockers don't have oil holes. I've never seen this before and have had problems in the past when a rocker in the TR6 got blocked and destroyed the pin and pushrod.
Any ideas please.
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My Feb 1970 PI has the PRV in the boot area, next to the fuel tank left side. The car has a Bosch pump conversion but I can't see that the PRV and its connections would have been moved.
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6 hours ago, Mark69 said:
slowly going back together, struggling with repo parts not fitting well and parts not performing as they should.
What injection system is that?
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Almost guaranteed it is the Bosch pump cavitating.
Mine does this occasionally. Turn it off and restart and it disappears. Mine seems to do it when I put a big load on it, like giving it heaps in 3rd. It doesn't affect normal driving as I have continued driving for some kms with it squealing.
Check that the lines to it are clear and filters in the lines are clear.
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2 hours ago, tim hunt said:
I was glad for the chance to see the project up close and personal recently John and pleased to hear the steady progress continues, your attention to getting it just right is laudable. We got home early Tuesday morning, I got a good sleep on the 14 hour leg from Singapore so am still fresh, accounting for me still being up at 01.15 Wednesday morning!
Hi Tim, It was our pleasure to host you and Sue while you were out here in Oz. Maybe one day we can catch up in the UK.
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21 hours ago, foster461 said:
Looks fantastic John. Must be a challenge getting all those long door TR2 details right.
Stan
I was fortunate Stan to buy a car the previous owner had started restoring properly. He had replaced the floors etc and got most of the gaps right.
He intended to build a road going drivers car and fitted the high port head etc so I needed to refocus his work on creating an original long door car. It will be driven but as I have another TR2 as my daily driver I can make this car into an original TR2 with all its foibles.
A significant time drain has been getting things like slot headed screws etc as nearly everything nowadays is philips head. I have found one place in Sydney, a fair way from me, that has a selection of such items. A lot of bits like flasher units etc are available from Moss although many items are TR3A and different to a TR2.
I get a lot of support from our members out here and the TR Register UK and this website has been a godsend. I have made a few friends on here, obtained invaluable advice and even located a suitable pair of 1 1/2" SUs from a TR Register UK member.
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38 minutes ago, John McCormack said:
The engine bay.
I haven't been near any records but I had a bit part in Jessica Watsons round the world trip in that I used my boat to find the best place in Sydney for her to berth on her return. Morning Bird is very similar in fit out to Jessica's yacht except for the hard dodger and the additional stays, I have no intention of sailing south out of Sydney so don't need those items. I do have a Fleming wind vane, demonstrated in the video and a fantastic invention, electric pilot, inner forestay for a storm sail, storm drogue etc. The S&S are beautiful sailing yachts. The same logic as with TRs or the Supermarine Spitfire, if it looks right it will sail, drive or fly right.
Is your S&S a Winfield built S&S34, the same as Edward Heaths Morning Cloud?
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10 minutes ago, Tony_C said:
Hello John,
Yes, wow, the factory would not recognise anymore... But, tell us, do you really need a heater in Sydney?!... I decided years ago that they are ‘ballast’ even in freezing UK and Sydney is always glorious weather?!.
... Further, considering your impeccable taste re side screen TR’s and S&S sail yachts - Both undoubtedly the best of the best!! - you will fully understand the ‘ballast reference’ above... We have got (UK Norwich built - same town that built my Lotus) S&S. - Yours, undoubtedly(?) was manufactured in Oz and - only judging from the TR photo - will not only look immaculate but confidently get you home whatever force 10 the Pacific or other oceans care to throw at you. - You know the S&S 34 has world records to its name? - Did you set one or two of them?
I suppose it depends on your feeling for the cold. It does get chilly here (under 15 DegC during the day) and we do club runs to colder climes. In 2017 we spent 3 weeks and 5,000kms in Tasmania. Inland from here in the Blue Mountains and further west it is often close to 0 DegC.
To be honest, I had two original heaters in good condition so one is in the BRG daily driver and one in this car.
This car will probably only be used on sunny days, not too hot, not too cold. It isn't intended as a daily driver or anywhere near it. I have the short door TR2 and a TR6 for that.
The S&S is seaworthy, I have sailed her to Lord Howe Island (google it) three times, and she is ready to go to sea now. But no, she isn't cosmetically fantastic. My crew made a video of our trip in 2016. It is available here.
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The engine bay.
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Apologies, two of the videos didn't work. For some reason youtube won't allow me to create the other two videos, one of the lights and horn and one of the engine bay.
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I did a few videos of the TR2 today.
It is getting there, all the electrical issues have been resolved and everything works although the overdrive and heater have been tested but are not yet wired in. Brakes, clutch, throttle etc are now complete.
The high port head and carbies will stay until the car has been registered but I have a low port head being crack tested and assembled and hopefully rebuilt 1 1/2"carbies available (thanks David Ferry). The seats are with the upholsterer, the fuel tank is being treated and should be ready next week.
CRACKING IN FRONT SUSPENSION PILLARS
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I had the opportunity today to get the front left wheel off and have a good look around. I found a couple more cracks lower down in the pillar. They are pretty big cracks but not all the way through and the structure appears to be sound.
I have filled the cracks I can see with JBWeld, not to repair them but to enable me to see where the cracks are moving. The JBWeld will come apart when the crack moves. The large weld that looks like a crack is a previous repair and is solid.
Another trip to the workshop to effect more repairs.