[Note to self]

18 hours ago, Ian Vincent said:

Why not?

rgds Ian 

Because the long bolt that goes through the body is put through from the rear before the overrider is bolted on.

[Note to self]

I think parts of this were done for the cameras. When they are lowering the 3A body onto the chassis the rear over riders are already on the chassis. Not how it would be done I would think.

[Pumping For Clutch]

On 5/2/2019 at 5:51 PM, Graham Harris said:

After reading this thread again I see you replaced the master cylinders, I did the same and found the same problem with the clutch I just could not get the air out. My fix was to get the original master cylinders sleeved and rebuilt and haven't had any issues since.

 

  Graham

Both my sidescreens have original cylinders resleeved. It is only the new restoration car with Dot 5 that has the problem.

[Pumping For Clutch]

On 5/1/2019 at 10:40 PM, roger murray-evans said:

John,

Begs the question, why persist with trying to bleed silicon fluid, when the old DOT4

has never caused any problem?

I tried the silicon fluid years ago, against better advice and regretted it.The new hydraulic rubbers,

of whatever the project was at the time, were swelling up after contact with the silicon and causing mayhem.

New rubbers and a good flush thru with DOT3/4 and all was good.

Cheers

Roger M-E

Hi Roger,

Dot 4 destroys the paint. No other reason.

The Lockheed master cylinder will leak. If it doesn't initially (highly unlikely as the pipe attachments on the back of the cylinder are a pain in the a...) it will during service when the seals wear. When it does leak it destroys the engine bay paint, many a restoration has started because of master cylinder leaks.

The slave cylinders also leak as it is very difficult to get the joint seating right first time. It took me a few weeks to finally eliminate all the leaks in the various joints. If I had used Dot 4 the new paint would have been severely damaged.

Silicone brake fluid can only be used on a new brake system. Some people will say you only need to replace the rubbers and hoses but you really need an entirely new system.

The car in question is intended to be an immaculate example of an original TR2. It has an all new brake system and all new paint. Silicone is the only answer.

[Pumping For Clutch]

18 hours ago, RobTR3 said:

I to bought a new slave cylinder and spring from Moss and I had nothing but trouble with the clutch afterwards. I agree with the originator of this thread that the Moss supplied spring is too strong, it has the affect of pulling the S/C piston too far back into the bore. In my case , the effect of this was to give barely enough clutch to change gear and reverse would often be difficult without crashing the mesh! I recently did away with the spring altogether, adjusted the rod as per W/M and I now have a transformed clutch that works as it should. Is a return spring really necessary? 

Rob

Absolutely it is. I had a too weak spring on my TR2 and it allowed the thrust race to lightly touch the pressure plate. After about 15-20,000 miles it had worn one of the pressure plate arms so much  the pressure plate failed with a bang spreading debris around the bellhousing. The correct spring MUST be installed.

I suspect the problem here is bleeding with silicone fluid. My restoration TR2 has silicone and bleeding is a whole new ball game. My other TR2 has Dot 4 and I have had no problems bleeding its clutch over 43 years ownership.

I spent ages bleeding the silicone fluid clutch and it still isn't right. I will have it done by my mechanic with a pressure bleeder. I understand there is a bit of frothing issue as noted above but for some reason it just can't clear all the air in the clutch line above the master cylinder. I don't know why, maybe somebody here can enlighten us.

[Overheating]

5 minutes ago, Mark69 said:

Is that good or bad, drops to just above 50 when fully warmed up. 

My TR6 is the same as yours cold. Hot it is about 60psi above 2000rpm and 30-35 at idle. That is fine. My TR2 has been running 70-75 psi hot for 43 years without any issues.

If you are worried put a separate pressure gauge on first to make sure your gauge isn't incorrect.

[Main reason for early TR engine failures?]

TS3732O has a red line at 5000. As it is a 3 owner car (I am the 3rd) and the first two owners knew each other it is believed to be the original tacho.

[TR3 for sale - Essex]

5 hours ago, roger murray-evans said:

Halfway through the restoration of my 2, doing an awful lot of the

work myself, farming the rest out where the job will be done better,

even the 2 most expensive cars mentioned here are beginning to look

like bargains!!

Roger M-E

Concur. My budget all up is $65,000 Aus. About £34,000. Plus my labour.

[TR3 for sale - Essex]

10 hours ago, foster461 said:

How about a long door TR2.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR2-Long-Door-UK-Car-Only-1-500-Miles-Stunning-Example/132958364688

As this car is an older restoration showing its age in the carpets and engine bay, I reckon my long door TR2 once completed would be asking at least £50-60,000. I am endeavouring to build my car as close as is possible to the original factory specs for the Commission number. 

 

[Still Hoping......No More]

Lovely car, same colour as mine. My wife and I are travelling through Ontario in June, driving from Vancouver to Toronto where one of our sons live. I am keen to experience the performance of the north American cars. Maybe we could catch up. Where are you located?

[very smokey exhaust]

Down here it is called BP Ultimate. They then introduced BP Ultimate diesel. Sounds like it could almost be deliberate by BP but I can't see a motive.

We had two sidescreens fill up with diesel at our Nationals a couple of years ago and a TR3 did the same on a club run last year. All at BP.

[Windscreen side bracket]

5 minutes ago, brenda said:

That looks really good credit to you, looks like you have loads of room in your garage.

Mike. Redrose group 

It is a good garage. I can fit another TR type car in there. Just saying ....

We went from a 5 bedroom house with a single carport to a small 3 bedroom house with an 8 metre by 7.5 metre garage. I'm happy and we are closer to the grand kids so mum is also happy.

[Windscreen side bracket]

6 hours ago, John McCormack said:

Good advice. I'll try it.

Loosening the stanchion screws worked. The car reached a milestone today with the addition of the windscreen and yet again the assistance of members here has been invaluable.

Mount the other front overrider, windscreen wipers and fit the Commission plate (TS3732O) and she can get registered (MOT'd) on Historic plates. It has been 2 years 3 months since I bought her in pieces.

Once that is done the upholstery can go in to make her usable. Finishing touches will take a quite bit longer.

[Windscreen side bracket]

13 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Do not forget the stanchions are matched to their brackets. They have a number letter combination stamped on bracket and stanchion that should be the same.   Matching the profile shape when the two are assembled is a factor to consider.

Since repainting my car and rebuilding a rechromed screen I now slack the 3 screws that hold one  stanchion to the frame when fitting/removing the screen.  Makes for more clearance.

Peter W

Good advice. I'll try it.

[Windscreen side bracket]

32 minutes ago, stuart said:

This does happen occasionally, What you can do is grind the channel in the stanchions out a little bit to fit, I have had to do this to fit later stanchions to earlier side plates. Luckily when fitted its not noticeable

Stuart.

Thanks Stuart. A local owner suggested the same.

My problem with doing that right now is that I am a bit concerned the new paint job on the car may also be contributing to my problem, too much paint may resulted in the brackets being too far apart. Grinding the stanchions may add to my problems if that is the case.

 

[Windscreen side bracket]

I had my windscreen side brackets, the bits the windscreen attaches to the body with, chromed. Unfortunately it appears the chrome is so thick the screen won't slide home into position.

Does anybody have a pair of old ones I could buy?

[Overdrive packed up!]

Good news. Simple cheap fixes don't happen often enough.

[CRACKING IN FRONT SUSPENSION PILLARS]

The repair completed today. There doesn't appear to any particular reason for the cracking to occur. The shocks are fine, everything appears normal. Old age maybe.

The TR6 is driving superbly, it is a class act that would have been magic in 1970. They were too expensive for me back then.

[Overdrive packed up!]

14 minutes ago, Steves_TR6 said:

Thanks John

90% of car problems are electrical so yes i’ll be checking the wiring first.

steve

ps, love to a pic of you s&s34!

Even better, here is the Safety Plan I prepared for her as a guide to crew when sailing offshore. It has a few photos and other details.

Do you sail?

Safety Plan - Morning Bird.doc

[Replacing dynamo with Dynator]

I run wide belts but the narrow one is far more convenient.

 

[HARD REAR SUSPENSION]

19 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

+1

Tyre pressure?

You could get some friends to stand in the car behind the seats and bounce to see if the spring leaves are just a bit seized. -settle the springs in

Try it with the shocks disconnected - on an unpopulated lane at low speed. - that would eliminate the shocks.

Cheers

Peter W

 

With about 60kgs standing behind the seats I can jack the axle up about 1". So there is movement.

I didn't remove the shocks in this test. They are a pain to get out because the lower link attachment is too close to the spring and getting it out requires the ubolts to be loosened to lower the pad.  I had removed one already and it moved reasonably well through its range.

The springs do seem to be pretty stiff, once the 1"was achieved they weren't compressing anymore. 

I will drive it to get a wheel alignment, a couple of kms, which should be far enough loosen it up if it is going too.

[Overdrive packed up!]

Sounds like the solenoid isn't earthed properly. Mine did this, the earth lead was loose then came off.

I have also had the solenoid fail when hot. The solenoid operated electrically but the seals go hard over time and won't hold oil pressure when the oil thins out.

Check the earth, then try a new solenoid.

[Steering control head]

1 hour ago, Richardtr3a said:

I am late to add to this thread but I have read it all over the last few weeks.

My indicators were  cancelling well. I was overhauling the steering and I changed the steering box. When  lining up the stator tube with the slot at 12 o'clock the full head assembly would not slide in correctly. If I  move the stator by rotating it to the left to a new position, the head slides on and the cancellation works, BUT only at full lock.

Nothing in the steering head has been changed. I rebuilt it years ago with a spare on the bench as a pattern. What has happened? It is the same head ,wiring, stator tube and steering wheel.

Thanks Richard & B

Going from memory the usual problem here is the cancelling mechanism isn't directly opposite the indicator switch on the bootom of the installed control head. 

Again from memory. Undo the nut holding the stator tube in the steering box. Fit the control head to the stator tube. Ensure the cancelling mechanism is at the bottom of the control head in the 6 oçlock, opposite the indicator switch. Line the head up on the steering wheel and insert. Have someone hold the head in place while you do up the stator tube nut.

Peter W and I were writing at the same time. Same message, fortunately

[Fuel gauge/sender problems]

10 minutes ago, Graham Harris said:

You need to make sure the gauge is earthed, you are working on the tank and sender earth but don't say anything about the gauge earth which is viral.

 

Graham

Thanks Graham. The gauge appears well earthed via the mounting bracket. I find a poor instrument earth is revealed by tapping the gauge.

 

[Fuel gauge/sender problems]

5 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Ok mystery solved then. The float is dropping too far, & the wiper is moving beyond the end of the resistance wire.

There are matal tabs on the Base of the sender case which should limit the movement of the float rod. The lower limit tab needs bending to stop the wiper moving so far. After that the easy estate way to improve matters is to bend the float rod (wire) to push the float lower in the tank without upsetting the adjustment you just made. That will move the range of the fuel level downward.  If the gauge does not then read full with a full tank then the other tab could be adjusted, or the gauge it's self can be adjusted (but this is not simple)

Bob

Thanks Bob. I'll bend the shaft tomorrow. The tabs look to be right but if I can move the lower one a bit I will.