John McCormack
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Posts posted by John McCormack
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Dot 5, Silicone, isn't a paint stripper so you will preserve the engine bay paint. Yes it is a bit harder to bleed and in my TR2 it feels a bit different but it is fine and the paint protection makes it all worthwhile.
I believe you need to replace all rubber in the systems, not just flush it through.
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On 6/17/2019 at 1:38 AM, TR 2100 said:
Never seen the early "Metal dished grommet" type.
Would love to see some photos?
And maybe photos would help to suggest a means of replicating them.
AlanR
Thank you for the photo.
I need two for my long door car.
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On 6/5/2019 at 7:25 AM, aardvark said:
Dave - it certainly sounds like the back to me but I will have a look at the front tomorrow.
Rich - my hubs are new (3000 miles ago) quaife type so should be bullet proof.
i will give it another going over tomorrow evening looking closely at the handbrake actuating lever, springs, steady pins/clips and handbrake cable. The fact that the noise stops immediately after lightly putting foot on the brake suggests to me it’s brake related. Or is that too obvious?
cheers
dave
My TR6 has the same symptoms. It is definitely brakes related. My car has Nissan hubs and axles.
I suspect the shoe return springs or something similar. I will pull the rear brakes down when I get home at the end of June and see what I can find.
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1 hour ago, John Morrison said:
Originals had nipples for greasing,
many replacements do not.
John.
I recall you were only supposed to put a pump or two in rarely but people pumped more in than was necessary. The grease can't go anywhere inside the pump so putting more in just damaged seals.
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The outer casing of the fast idle (throttle) cable on the choke might be stuck on the lip of the bit it goes into at the throttle body.
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Does the engine fire?
Sounds like the battery is losing power with the ignition connected. This might be because the battery is knackered, the terminals aren't clean, the ignition is wired incorrectly and is draining the battery.
Put a multi meter on the battery while cranking. If the voltage drops markedly with the ignition on you could have an ignition problem causing too high a load/too much drain on the battery.
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5 hours ago, Waldi said:
New oil is “thicker” than old oil of the same grade.
The internalby-pass on the filter should not affect the oil pressure too much, it will flow the same way, but with the by-pass open, it is not filtered.
Waldi
Agree. Take the car for a good drive, over an hour including some freeway and see what the pressure is above 2000 and at idle. 30-40 at idle and up to 80 psi above 2000 is OK.
Don't forget these gauges aren't perfectly accurate.
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19 hours ago, Bill.P. said:
After trying time and again to place a classified ad on the classified site and failing, I'm using this to say that, if anyone is looking for a complete TR3/3A axle to upgrade their TR2/early TR3, then I have one for sale for £500. Exactly as removed from a car many years ago and stored since, and very hard to find now, Bill Piggott
If you were in Australia I'd buy it straight away.
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I am still after baby tenax for TS3732O if anybody has any. Cheers John
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Putting 3 TRs to bed while we are in Canada and the US for 6 weeks from Monday. 20km drive to get everything moving, wipe over with the chamois, trickle charger on the TR6 and car cover to keep the dust off.
Restoration TR2 given a short run then wipe over and car cover. Battery disconnected.
I left my daily driver TR2 for tomorrow so I can take her for a run.
I'll be in Vancouver for the All British Day. Should be interesting.
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23 minutes ago, RogerH said:
Hi Sean,
as you know it is there then try and drive around it. I shall live with mine through the summer and think about a 4th rebuild in the autumn.
On start up lift the clutch slowly to engage drive. Changing gear shouldn't be a problem. Slowing down can cause backlash so I dip the clutch.
As mentioned by GT6M (Markus) even a rebuild may not solve it.
Roger
+1. Smooth driving almost eliminates the noise and you can still give it a gut full of throttle when in gear.
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Diff back lash. A bit worse than usual but I wouldn't be spending a lot of money or time fixing it yet.
These cars are not perfect, trying to make everything perfect will cause a lot of heartache and financial pain.
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I had the same symptoms. I bought a new servo from Rimmers, problem solved.
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7 hours ago, Steves_TR6 said:
A sticking rear wheel cylinder, ie not sliding on the backplate?
they need occasional greasing
steve
Yep.
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4 hours ago, Paul J said:
Its possible the overriders on the last car in the clip were for guidance of fitting the tub and are possibly removable for that task, as the car in front does not seem to have the overriders fitted but the tub is in position, maybe.
Paul
Maybe, but the risk of damaging the body on the overrider iron would have been very high. It is a close fit there.
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25mpg on a country drive with a stock Lucas PI with electronic ignition. 15-20mpg around Sydney.
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11 hours ago, Paul J said:
Hi John
Having seen your engine bay and standard of finish I can sympathise with your chosen option to try the repair from underneath, best of luck. Removing the apron and engine then refitting will most certainly leave a trail.
All bye best
Paul
Now back home and continuing with the TR6 resto.
Hi Paul,
Glad you are back home in one piece. It was my pleasure to have you around during your visit down under. I was particularly grateful that you bought the 11/2" SUs out for me.
Having studied the manual and discussed it with some good TR engineers, sealing the bearing cap from underneath isný too difficult. Whether I do it well is another question.
Take the sump and box off, remove the main bearing cap, clean it all up with carbie cleaner etc, put it back together and punch the Wellseal or Permatex soaked seal in. Refit the sump and box. Hopefully a days work.
Cheers
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32 minutes ago, RogerH said:
Hi John,
you have to remove the gearbox. You are considering removing the sump. With a little more time and effort take the engine out and do it properly.
Clearly the Pro builder has done something not quite right - laying on your back with oil dripping on you will not equal his efforts.
Take the engine out, examine the issue and get it sorted - a weeks work.
If you have the standard crank with scroll then consider the Christian Marx oil seal.
Roger
Thanks Roger. I want to avoid taking the engine out if at all possible. While I have a good size garage I have limited resources (help) so have a real risk of incurring damage to the apron/engine bay etc.
I will see what I can get to with the sump off. Taking the box out isn't too big a job so I'll take it off to loosen the two bolts that intrude into the groove. I'll let it drip into a tray for a bit and it should be ok. I mean we do oil pumps and big/little ends with the engine in place.
I can accept a minor drip occasionally, the leak now is excessive.
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33 minutes ago, Hamish said:
This is quite a clear video of the process. This chap shares a lot of TR information.
Excellent video, thank you. I reckon it should be doable from underneath, if messy. As I said previously there is no oil coming from the seal itself, that area is bone dry. The mess is at the bottom of the engine.
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16 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said:
Not really. If you are sure the seal itself isn't leaking (hhmmmm) then what's so difficult with the experienced original engine builder having to seal the rear mains block with numerous felt strips dipped into Wellseal ? If he couldn't do it with the engine out and on a bench why is an upside down attempt trying to displace oil from sealed surfaces likely to succeed ?
I would stick with the engine out process unless with the engine in place you can remove the gearbox, radiator and spark plugs and spin the crank over with an impact driver on the end of the crank dog bolt to check where the oil is puthering out from. If it is the seal area around the block and not the crank seal itself then I'd go the engine out method, at least it's halfway there with no gearbox on it !...oh and refit with gearbox fitted it's easier.
Mick Richards
Unfortunately the engine was done too long ago (possibly 8-12 years ago) and too far away for me to refer to the rebuilder. While they are a reputable engine business they aren't TR specialists. We just don't have them in Australia.
I have no idea how he sealed it, hopefully it will all come clear when I get the sump off. It might be he used felt strips but didn't leave any excess to keep it in compression.
As it appears pretty straight forward to get the sump off and try to reseal it from underneath I'll give that a try. If it doesn't work I will have to wrap the engine bay in cotton wool, be very careful taking the apron off and lift the engine/box out.
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17 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said:
The felt packing allows the sealing agent to be carried in it and then compressed squeezing it into the joints and then out which then goes sticky at the edge where it emerges and finally seals the rear mains against oil passing around and through it. Whatever you use (the factory and I use Wellseal which has been proved over 50 years and does seal excellently) the existing oil leak contaminates the machined sides of the mains bearing block and you'll find it difficult to achieve a satisfactory seal by trying with it in place.
Imagine lying upside down under the open sump with 2" or thereabouts lengths of felt soaked in Wellseal which is like treacle squeezing them into the seal channel either side of the rear mains block (which then dumps it's Wellseal over you), and the final felt fitment strip either side needs to be left proud of the sump surface by about 3mm so that the Wellsealed block has a continued pressure when the sump is immediately refitted and sealed in place...not easy.
Also it's like pushing water uphill, if the rear seal mains is leaking then the machined surfaces up to the crank (it's upside down) is contaminated and you will be trying to drive the Wellseal into the machined seal surfaces uphill and then displacing the oil from between the block mains surfaces and out the end. All this presupposes the alloy rear oil seal scroll is fitted the correct amount up to, but away from the crank by a couple of thou by being fitted with a machined mandrill prior to the crank being fitted. Also is the reputable engine builder aware that the dimensions shown in the workshop manual for machining the mandrill is incorrect, did he even use one ? can you ask him ? and has he made a new mandrill to the correct dimensions to allow the oil scroll fitment before the crank was fitted. If this seal is incorrectly fitted, in use you will get significant oil leaks from the rear mains as the oil passes along the crank rear main surface by rotation and is screwed out of the end of the crank, when the engine is stopped it will continue for some hours afterwards as the oil drops onto the crank from the interior surfaces and is pushed along and out of the crank past the seal.
Give the in situ sealing a go if you wish it's the least labour intensive, but I fear it will not work and you will end pulling the engine and gearbox, splitting them, dropping the sump and crankshaft and refitting the rear scroll oil seal in the correct manner. Be advised the oil scroll works when the engine spins but not when the engine is stood, so there is normally a small weep from the crank and rear of the engine when stood (they were a lot more relaxed about a spot of oil on the floor in the 50s and 60s). If you wish to stop that a Christian Marx additional rear of crank seal can be fitted (whilst the crank is out) behind the original scroll and will do a good job.
Mick Richards
Thanks Mick. My apologies, the engine doesn't have an original scroll seal but a dripless seal. I'm not sure which type is fitted but the seal itself isn't leaking.
Does that affect your advice?
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My restoration project engine was rebuilt at great expense byt the previous owner using a reputable engine builder. All is good except for a significant oil leak from the rear of the engine. After I run the engine I get a pool of oil under the back of the engine and the leak will continue for a day or two before it stops. It is too big a leak to ignore.
I have had the gearbox off a couple of times, most recently when I had the clutch issue a month or so back. The oil is NOT coming from the main seal or the welsh plugs on the back of the engine nor the gearbox front seal. The bellhousing is dry as is the back of the engine including under the flywheel. But as I didn't suspect the bearing cap I didn't check it closely while I had it apart. After discussing it with our most knowledgeable TR engine engineer the culprit is probably the main bearing cap, which can be tricky to seal on the sides.
I am going away next week for 6 weeks so will tackle this when I get back. The first thing will be to use a mirror and peer into the area under the flywheel to confirm the oil is coming from there.
The manual says to pack the sides of the seal with felt packing however this has not been the best method as the packing goes hard and I believe rebuilders often use Silastic after cleaning all surfaces with carbie or brake cleaner.
My mate says while tricky it can be done with the engine and box in situ.
Has anybody done this and what process is used?
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16 hours ago, TomMull said:
My limited experience, two cars, would support Rod's comment in the original post and your time frame. My 1960 TR3 was red with a red frame. I only recently discovered this after 55 years of ownership because the car was undercoated with black by the selling dealer, a common practice then. Stripping the frame revealed the red paint. My 59 was originally white and has what appears to be a powder blue chassis from the traces remaining. I find that a good place to check is behind the rear shock mounting surface. (I initially thought this red might be red primer but it is a very close match to signal red and blue on the other car.) Of course there is ample opportunity things got monkeyed with in the 60 or so years since these were built.
The rear bumpers are curious but I can't see what would be gained by changing the assembly procedure for the camera.
The film is very interesting piece of history at any rate. How things have changed!
Tom
I can't see why they would have put the overriders on either. There seems no reason for it and there presence creates a high risk of damaging the body as it is placed in position on the chassis. Curious.
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5 hours ago, Ian Vincent said:
Thks for this John but if the bottom overrider bolt is not done up tight could you swing it to on side to allow the top long bolt and tube to be fitted?
rgds Ian
Unfortunately no Ian.
The overrider is held in place on the S shaped mounting bracket with two bolts, one above and one below the long bolt. When attached to the S bracket the overrider obstructs access to the long bolt hole from the top.
It isn't possible to put the long bolt in from the underside because the long bolt is inside a spacer tube that fits inside the hole in the body. The spacer tube must be installed from the rear.
This diagram might help explain it.
TR6 STARTUP AFTER 6 WEEKS AND OIL CHANGE INTERVALS
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I've just been away in Canada and the USA for 6 weeks. Both the daily driver TR2 and the TR6 started up after a few seconds cranking. Took them both for a drive and smiled all afternoon.
After the drive I changed the TR6 oil and filter, at 2800 miles and 17 months interval. I don't take much notice of the time interval with modern oils and filters but do not let it go past 3,000 miles.
What is others opinion on oil change intervals?
On a side note, while in Canada my wife and I had the pleasure of attending the All British Day in Vancouver. A fantastic day and I arrived home to find a parcel from the TR Register British Columbia with a few momentos. How good is that! Thanks gents.