John McCormack
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Posts posted by John McCormack
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Thank you all. I have my answer.
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I'm after a pair of demister nozzles if anyone has any for sale, or knows where they might be available.
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52 minutes ago, stuart said:
TR2`s didnt have that finisher in the end they were just trimmed off with the capping material
Stuart.
Thank you. Are you sure about the 2 not having them? Moss Europe show them as being TR3A only but others indicate them on all sidescreens.+
I am after originality for this car so won't use them if they weren't original. I have a set so might put them in my other TR2 when I redo its upholstery.
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A photo of how the capping end was originally finished would now be great. Thanks in advance.
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26 minutes ago, Fireman049 said:
+1. Here are photo's of the chrome cappings on my 3A.
Tom.
Thank you. Are you sure about the 2 not having them? Moss Europe show them as being TR3A only but others indicate them on all sidescreens.
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Hi, can anybody put up a photo of how the door capping end was originally finished, with the decorative piece in place (Moss Europe part no 606848). If you know how that piece is installed I'd be very pleased.
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On 5/18/2014 at 5:40 AM, jas said:
The idle speed has been fine but I can't adjust the idle back any more, would air leak not show up when cold as well though?
That road is very wide, but very short. :-)
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On 7/20/2015 at 2:56 AM, Kutscher said:
Hi, i'm looking for a oil filler decal for a TR2 Longdoor.
Can't find it on the internet, maybe someone has a
scan from the decal so i can make a copy.
Thanks
I would also like one for my long door. Are they still available?
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16 hours ago, Paul Hill said:
My pump as been performing well of late, we went on a good run yesterday 130 miles round trip with the last 35 miles very spirited on twisty turny roads. When we were nearly home we encountered some standing traffic and the pump seemed to be revving, it had no effect on performance but not heard it like that. The pump is wired separately and about 8 months old. There is not a pre pump filter as I can see, and the tank is the original. Turn the ignition on and listen at the filler cap and good healthy return to the tank. The pump is in the boot
My question is anyone know of an expert local to me in Staffordshire or West MIdlands where I can get it sorted once and for all
many thanks Paul
If your tank was below 1/4 it was probably the pump cavitating. Mine does it, car still runs ok but very loud pump noise.
Fill it up and all is good.
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3 hours ago, Waldi said:
Paul,
have a look in the WSM, section 57.
You should see a circlip where the pinion comes out. Without the circlip, you solely rely on the column to retain the pinion in place, not good.
The acceptable axial clearance is 0.25 mm (0,01”). If you indeed have 2-3 mm axial play on the pinion, our pinion is probably working its way out.
If it can go out further, you cannot steer the car anymore.
I would not drive it before I fully understand the cause and fix it.
I tried to make a pic of the circlip, but it does not show very clear, but have pics from my rebuild I can send you in large format, pm me your mail adress if you want
The other big nut (normally with grease nipple) is for adjustment of play between rack and pinion by thin shims.
Best regards,
Waldi
I just re read the original post. I was thinking it was lateral movement on the pinion shaft which is what mine has, about 1mm of it. 2-3mm in and out play I agree with Waldi. Sort it out before driving it.
My apologies.
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4 hours ago, TR Paul said:
Evening chaps, here's an update on my exciting steering rack situation.... The column coupling is solidly fixed to the pinion shaft, which is doing all the moving; Mean while, at the 'front' of the rack, there is no evidence of a circlip, or any location for one. There seems to be a blanking plug 'round there, which feels like it might be undone with an Alen key, or similar.
Cheers,
Paul.
Mine has had a bit of play there for the 3 years I've owned the car.
There is a bush on the pinion shaft (I haven't pulled it apart yet but the Triumph specialist advised me of it) which can be replaced. It won't cause a steering failure, just a bit of play in the wheel as the few thou of play is taken up.
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On 9/15/2019 at 6:44 AM, ssplant said:
I recently had a TR4 overdrive and gearbox dropped into my 3A. All was well for a while but then, normally after a couple of weeks none use I would go to the car and it refused to allow me into 3rd and 4th. 1st 2nd and reverse were fine but no two or three, it felt as if they didn't exist at all. A few many minutes for wiggling the gearchange it would eventually move/loosen up if a little stiffly at first but them would be fine for the rest of the day as it was being driven, Anybody got any ideas of a potential reason but this behaviour or is she just being awkward?
Are you using the correct oil? Using diff oil in the gearbox causes similar symptoms. Once warmed up the oil is thin enough to let it work, when cold and thick it won't.
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On 9/17/2019 at 9:53 AM, 2long said:
Yes, reverse seems to be fine (although backing out of the driveway when it is cold is often my only reversing time). I was concerned it was oil leaking from the rear main onto the clutch surface, but again I am not very bright on whether that is a realistic concern. Of course a clutch bleed or adjustment would be a huge relief if that were the fix for it. I may not have been vigorous enough slipping the clutch, as it is counter-intuitive for me.
Dan
On 9/16/2019 at 4:55 PM, TwinCamJohn said:Following on from my thread on the timing chain cover leak, I am considering what else needs to be done whilst the front is off.
Since I bought the car (4 years) there has been an occasional judder when reversing (more so if there is a slope). The clutch works fine normally.
Is there anything external that might cause this? It is an opportunity to take the engine out but I don't want to do that to find I have missed something else obvious !
Do you have a J type conversion with a TR6 clutch? The stock TR6 clutch is known for it, my TR6 has it. The thrust race catches on the extension it slides over.
Standard sidescreen clutches, and TR6 ones, do shudder with a buildup on the flywheel. A good slipping of the clutch cures it.
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14 hours ago, Jonathan Smith said:
John picture of the webbing fixing on my long door 2 TS349
Hope this is of some help
Jonathan
That looks appropriate. We had our All British Day in Sydney today. My TR2 is the only car with the plate with the stud in between the attachment screws. All the other cars, 3As, were like this. I'm assuming that is the original design.
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I am after the detail for the tonneau fastener at the back of the cockpit on the body where the soft top webbing attaches. It is for the early long door car with the small studs and tenax fastener.
My short door car has a solid chrome piece with the stud welded to the middle and the screw holes each side of it. The long door car didn't have anything when bought.
Any advice on the original detail, a photo perchance, greatly appreciated.
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TR6s, and Tr5s for that matter, are known for the left hand door having poor gaps. My car is a survivor with no major body work since new. left hand door gap isn''t pretty. Yours will be better than new.
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I apply a self imposed rev limit of about 4,500 on my stock 1970 PI. It is a 50 year old engine and in today's traffic I get plenty of performance at that limit.
I just went out for a run and took her to just over 4,500 in 2nd and then changed up. It felt like it would have liked to go harder but I don't want to stress it.
What do other owners rev their engines too?
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11 minutes ago, Mk2 Chopper said:
The gaps in the arches look to big for me (but not by much), maybe get some new standard springs, or you can get very slightly lower ones. Also is the camber right at the back, it seems to be leaning out at the top as though it's been on a jack recently?
Gareth
The photo is a few years old. It could well have been on stands before the photo.
The wheel alignment showed it was all correct.
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My 1970 PI appears to me to have a high ride height, especially at the front. As far as I can see, although my experience is overwhelmingly with sidescreen cars not TR6s, the car is largely original except for telescopic rear shocks.
I can't see any issues with the front springs, the aluminium spacer or rubber buffers. All seems normal.
It has 195/15 tyres which I know are smaller than others use but are close to the originals which suits me and the car.
What do others think?
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CVs on my car made a fantastic improvement. Apart from the cornering improvements they don't clunk on takeoff or gear changes, are quieter, don't need maintenance and come with hubs that don't break up when the bearings wear.
However, the Mitsubishi based ones I used (they are very popular here, made in Brisbane) only vary in the length of the diff end stub between the Stag and TR6. The one on my drivers (RHD) side was too long and the CV would bottom out under power on hard fast bends causing vibrations through the car. It took two replacements to get it right.
I took the car on a 50km run yesterday to meet the sidescreen guys for a coffee. The route north of Sydney includes a few kms on the M1 freeway at 'around' 110kph then up the Old Pacific Highway from Berowra to a place called Pie in the Sky, Cowan.
Do a Goodle Earth drive from Wahroonga to the Pie on the M1 and the old Pacific Hwy section. It is a wonderful TR drive usually traffic free, it was yesterday, and with a smooth surface.
The TR6 with the CV axles was brilliant on the freeway and the winding road.
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On 9/3/2019 at 6:55 PM, john.r.davies said:
Which bit of wilderness do you intend to explore?
having said that, an aquaintence at Duxford complained that not a single spares shop or motor factor in his overnight stay town had in stock, or knew what was, a high tension spark plug lead! But if you can buy fuel you can buy brake fluid, or oil, or bulbs. The last may go to LEDs soon.
john
In Australia it can be a long way to anywhere, especially on a weekend. You might find a workshop but if you don't have the spares it can be a long wait.
I try to be able to fix anything beside the road that can reasonably be fixed there. I carry a few things that a workshop can fit but won't be able to get easily.
In 2017 on a 2 week 4000km tour with 40 or so sidescreens my spares kept 5 other cars going. Most of them carried nothing. I want to help others but when you give up your only spare it leaves you in the lurch.
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I put this list together for my sidescreen friends. It also applies to a TR6 with maybe some modifications.
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Changing gear with od engaged can lead to clunky gear changes. Best to disengage the od when not using it and changing gears.
Keep a bit of power on changing up. Changing down a bit of power but if you can't keep power on dip the clutch to avoid shocks to the drive train.
The idea you ignore strain and knocks on a drive train on a 50 year old car is, in my view, not wise. You will have enough maintenance without making more of it by careless driving.
TR2 Demister Nozzles
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
I'll try them. I didn't think of them, they aren't that well known in Australia for 2nd hand parts.