John McCormack
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Posts posted by John McCormack
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2 hours ago, RogerH said:
That is cheating
Go on, take the gearbox out and THEN find it was the rubber
Roger
I'm not feeling too pleased.
The long door TR2 I am restoring to original condition is overheating, not badly but not good enough with summer coming. I fitted an original 4 blade fan to keep it original not knowing that the 6 blade fan as found on later 6 cyl Triumphs was a "tropical" option down under. I have had a 6 blade fan in my boxes of bits for 20-30 years so I measured it up and figured I could get the fans over the fan extension bolt, between the bolt and radiator.
I got the 4 blade one out easily and then found the new one wouldn't make it by about 1/4". Undid the radiator, drained it, disconnected everything and with my son's help to move the radiator as far as possible tried again. This time I got the new fan jammed between the bolt and radiator. It wasn't forced in, maybe 1/8" in it and it caught on something.
I got it out but did minor damage to the radiator cooling fins.
4 hours work and went backwards. The front apron will have to come off to do the job. With the new paint job I don't have the courage to do it.
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1 hour ago, Lebro said:
I have a 6 Volt version of the above (Dynamo & Regulator conversions) solid state regulator in my 1935 Hillman. I have also installed one in a freind's AC Greyhound. I would recommend them as fit & forget.
Re the existing one, the light can only come on if the "cut in" contacts in the reg are not closed (or closed properly so as to make a good electrical contact).
I suggest as a first step, clean the contacts with very fine abrasive paper, blow away any debris, & try the car again. if that does not improve things, then do the same with the regulator contacts (the smaller ones).
The fact that the light get brighter as revs increase suggests that the dynamo is working. What does the ammeter show ?
Bob
Thanks Bob. I will do that in the morning. I did that to the last one which got it working but it didn't last.
The ammeter shows no charge, 0. It shows a discharge with lights on but no +ve.
These regulators are supplied to Fergie tractors through a dealer here. I don't think they are up to car use.
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1 hour ago, david ferry said:
Hi John,
Recently, I bought a solid state one from http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/ for my TR3 race car build.
I’m unlikely to ever use it (it’s never been fitted) and could sell it to you if that helps. It may help your situation as these are far better than those regulators having mechanical innards.
However, they are polarity sensitive and from memory the unused one I have if for a negative earth car.
if of interest, you have my email address etc.
David
Thanks David. These look promising.
I am trying to keep this car original as it may have left the dealer. As such I am retaining +ve earth. But I will look at one of these if I can't find another solution.
I haven't fitted the carbies you provided yet. At the moment I am just enjoying getting a few miles on the car to sort out any issues. The only main one I have, apart from the charging, is it overheats too easily. I put an original 4 blade fan on, to keep it original, but it just won't do it. I have a 6 bladed fan which I subsequently learnt was an option out here, what was called a tropical fan. I just need to work up the courage to take the front apron off to change them over.
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I have just returned from a drive in my restoration project TR2 and have the symptoms of a failed regulator. The charge light glows brightly at higher revs and glows faintly at idle.
I have done 500 miles in the car and had to replace the regulator once already. I suspect the quality of the regulators from my supplier.
Recommendations of where to get a high quality regulator will be gratefully received.
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My head leaks the same. Standard on a TR6 although I think a gasket with a good sealant might fix it, at least for awhile. I live with it, it isn't too bad so I just clean the engine occasionally.
I have a Moss replacement water pump on my TR2. It has been there since the late 90s and over 100,000 miles.
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A bit of good news on this clutch issue.
The pedal rubber on the clutch was extremely worn, essentially smooth all over. When driving my foot wouldn't slide over the pedal as I released the clutch and when I felt it after a drive it felt very sticky to touch.
Owning a few of these cars I found a new pedal rubber in a box of bits and put it on the clutch pedal.
We just got back from a 50-60km drive and while there is a slight jerkiness the problem is 90% solved. The principal problem was the sticky rubber not allowing my foot to slide as I eased the clutch out. The new rubber allows a smooth sliding action.
It didn't cost anything and I didn't need to take the box out. :-)
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2 hours ago, Hamish said:
I would guess there would be.
Especially if the story of the car was fully explained eg made by the owner of the real one and there are pictures of the 2 side by side.
Is it a true replica or just a lookalike ?
i would try and get the details of the loosing bidder of the real one and see if they want it.
Easier if the bidder is in the room as someone could make the approach harder if commission or phone bid as you’d have to go to auctioneers. And they’d want a cut.
A look alike. It was rough the last I saw it. I am sure there will be photos of the car with the real one and with Jan.
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Jan Pearce's daughter now lives in Sydney and has Jan's replica JPV 374 TR2. he used it on occasions where he didn't want to take the real car out. I did a bit of work on it a few years ago to get it registered here.
She contacted me yesterday to tell me it will also now be sold.
Would there be a premium value on this replica TR2?
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Any suggestions how to best attache the bar to the wishbone?
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9 minutes ago, Lebro said:
Maybe for a TR4, wider track ?
Bob.
hi Bob. After more fiddling and jacking wheels up I find the holes do line up. The photos attached I took to show how the wishbone bolt and vertical link are in fact parallel. The vertical link when attached to the bar points directly at the wishbone bolt.
I was thinking of making a plate 2" by 1 1/2" with two holes. Attach the wishbone bolt to one hole and the vertical link to the other.
As the suspension moves there would be a small amount of lateral movement but it would be small.
What do you think
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Thank you all.
I was too confident yesterday.
This sway bar bolts onto the chassis just in front of the wishbone mount. It fits there perfectly without me adjusting anything so it is clear to me that is how it came off the previous fitment to the long door car.
My problem is the outer end of the bar doesn’t line up with the outer rear wishbone bolt. The hole in the bar is very close to the wishbone hole longitudinally. Laterally you can see the bar is a good 1”outside the wishbone hole. None of the fittings that came with the car will make it fit.
I think I might be missing something obvious.
Maybe despite the obvious fitting of the bar to the car it isn't the right one for the car?
Any ideas welcome
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6 minutes ago, Lebro said:
Hi John.
I think the middle bar in your 2nd photo is a rear bar for TR2-3, used with the longer brackets shown slightly below it.
The other two bars are probably front, but can't comment on the other brackets.
Photo is of Rimmer Bros rear bar fitted to my car (after a great deal of fettling !
Thanks mate. I have started fitting the top bar to the front. A bit of fiddling tomorrow should see it on.
The brackets go over the chassis under the idler and in the same position on the other side. The bar attaches to the rear outer wishbone bolt location. Hopefully it won't interfere with anything.
I'll then see if I can get the rear one lined up as you suggest.
I have been driving the TR2 for 43 years without any suspension mods. I am interested in seeing how much difference it makes.
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These anti sway bays and fittings came with my long door TR2 but may be from other cars such as a Healey. I have no experience with anti sway bars but if they are suitable now want to fit them to my daily driver TR2.
The top one in the photo with the mounts on it fits onto the chassis in front of the front wishbone and the ends appear to line up with the outer wishbone rear bolt. I say appear to as with the car on the ground they are about 1cm too wide but when the wishbones are level with the ground they should line up correctly. I have the vertical links.
I am not sure what the other bars are, they don't fit on the front, nor what the links are for. I suspect they are rear sway bars.
Is my thinking right on the front bar? Can anybody identify the other bars and what the links are for?
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3 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Where was your horn push button sourced from John?
I have a couple of those but have no idea which Triumph/Standard used them.
Cheers
Peter W
I believe they are Vanguard items. The previous owner of this car was told they are TR2 original parts but they aren't. However, it is possible, at least down here, that they were fitted by a dealer to get a sale.
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2 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi John,
was it really a 7/16 rod !! on the TR4A HS6 carb it uses a 3/16" rod (I think)
Roger
Yes Roger. The TR2 manual with TR3 supplement says 7/16".
I adjusted the needles today. They were both set to be level with the needle mount which is recessed slightly in the piston. . I set them both to be level with the bottom face of the piston. That leaned them both so I now have some adjustment on the mixture nut on both carbies. Not as much on the rear as the front but some.
It idled and drove very well, it seemed to have a bit more power and revved freely. A drive tomorrow should reveal if it has solved my idling problem.
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Thank you. I'll do a check later this afternoon.
I drove it this morning and the idle was good, although they were only 15 minute legs.
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My wife and I did it 30 years ago with I think one other helper. More recently I had four able bodied people and I had fitted a brace for each door opening to prevent the body twisting. I didn't bother with bracing 30 years ago, just lifted it off the trailer and onto the chassis.
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I got it. It wouldn't show on mine because eBay said they might not be posted to Australia.
Thank you for the trouble Conrad. A supplier recommended in an earlier post has them at 20pds each so I'll investigate them first thanks.
I am confident I can get a pair thanks to the help on this forum.
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The idle on my daily driver is steady at 800rpm until the engine is very hot, say after 30 minutes driving on a warmer day. It then idles ok for maybe 10-20 seconds when it will drop to 500-600 before recovering a bit and range between 500 and 700 and rough. It doesn't stall but is sometimes close to it.
TRs are not very good idlers when very hot but this was not acceptable.
The problem sounded like a rich cut and fouling plugs. I balanced the carbies, they were very close to spot on, and checked the mixtures. They were both too rich, particularly on the rear carbie.
I adjusted the mixture which did improve the idle but I ran out of lean adjustment on the rear carbie before I got it how I wanted it.
I checked the float level using a 7/16" rod under the fork as per the manual. It looked ok but I lowered the float maybe 50 thou to lean the mixture a bit. The idle is now pretty steady at 700-800 with a occasional drop for a second or two. The carbie adjustment nut is full up.
The only thing I can think of is the needle and jet could be worn. The carbies were brand new about 30,000 miles ago and I would have expected them to last a lot longer.
What are your thoughts?
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26 minutes ago, openroad said:
Here you go.
223675092501
Cheers Conrad.
Please contact me on here though , if you like them.
For some reason it won't locate them. Maybe if you cut and paste your item description and put it on here.
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Thanks guys. I am having this car done by a motor trimmer, I am hopeless at these jobs. I can measure 3 times and cut once and cock it up.
He has the detail so all good.
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57 minutes ago, ianc said:
If you want fuel economy and torque at low engine speed, then a standard low port head (with standard camshaft etc.) will provide that, but the engine will run out of puff at the top end.
My old bog-standard TR2 could trickle along at 800 rpm in overdrive top and ascend a gentle slope like that, accelerating slowly - amazing.
Ian Cornish
The low port head will give improved torque, low end performance and with 1 1/2" SUs better fuel economy.
The low port head will run out of puff above 4500rpm. In normal driving 4500 is a adequate, more than adequate.
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19 hours ago, openroad said:
Hi John, I have a pair on eBay at the moment,
If you don't do ebay, please contact,me.
Cheers Conrad.
I can't find them. If you could send me a link please.
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I'm on a roll tonight.
Can anybody tell me how these bands clips are tied? The diagram on the Rimmer site is inconclusive and when I tried it the band was secure.
Rimmer - Clip - Aluminium Band Type - Part No. AHH 7108
Regulators/Control box
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Thanks Stuart. Yep, did that on installation. I did it again yesterday morning and the regulator started regulating.
It failed again today and a pull through of a bit if thin cardboard got it going again.
This is the 2nd one of these regulators in this car. The previous one had similar symptoms and finally failed completely.
My other daily driver TR2 had similar problems and I had to use 2 or 3 regulators to get a reliable one. However, at 20 pds each compared to 162 pds to get a solid state one I can carry a spare easily enough.