John McCormack
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Posts posted by John McCormack
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Thanks gents. The TR2 didn't have the trim piping and it appears from other sources that the capping goes over the interior trim on the TR2.
It did change at some time after the TR2 and I know the TR3A has the capping inside the trim.
I am hopeful Bill P. or someone else might be able to provide a definitive answer for this long door TR2.
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I have been looking for original photos of the TR2 cockpit cappings to see whether the cappings behind the seats go inside or outside the interior trim pieces. Plenty of photos of the cockpit looking forward but not any I can find showing the rear cockpit capping pieces.
There are photos showing the shaped capping pieces behind the doors go outside the interior trim i.e. the interior trim goes under the capping. The long capping at the rear sits on top of the interior trim panel covering the fuel tank.
My question is do the short pieces of capping behind the shaped pieces go inside or outside the interior trim?
Update. I have found many photos showing both configurations but I can't tell if any are originals. My cappings, which I believe to be as per original noting I am the 3rd owner and the 2nd owner bought the car complete in 1965, are shaped to fit inside the trim?
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2 hours ago, RobinC said:
Hi Gavin,
I’m afraid I can’t offer any immediate solution – just commiserations …
I thought it might just be worth sharing my own similar experiences from ‘across the ditch’, to see if there is anything to be learned ….
I have, over the past few months, just rebuilt and fitted a J-Type (28%) from a 2500 Saloon, to my previously non-overdrive TR6. The rebuild included replacing all of the o-rings/seals and also a replacement Cone Clutch from the aforementioned Overdrive Repair Services.
I have so far covered only a couple of hundred kms, but I was similarly surprised by the harshness of engagement ( given that the J-Type is reputed to be much ‘softer’ than the old A-Type ). I am still experimenting with different engagement techniques, but still cannot achieve a consistently smooth change without the clutch.
At this stage, I had put it down to the new cone clutch grabbing a bit, and was going to wait and see if it improves once it gets a few more kms on it.
Not having previously driven an overdrive car more than a couple of kms, I wasn’t sure whether there was really an issue or not. However, your post struck a chord ….
I guess one significant point is that the symptom does not appear to be unique to your particular clutch friction material ….
I am currently using Castrol VMX-M which is a 75W-85 GL4 Manual Transmission Oil
To quote Castrol Australia Web site :
FEATURES & BENEFITS
- Provides quieter transmission operation
- Easier low temperature gear shifting – driver comfort
- Improved gear tooth and bearing durability
- Effective lubrication over a wide range of operating temperatures
- High shear stability providing excellent protection during the life of the lubricant
SPECIFICATIONS
- Mitsubishi TGO-2
- SAE 75W (extrapolated) 85W (equivalent to 10W-30)
- API Service Classification GL-4
I am somewhat bemused by the theory that the viscosity of EP80 or EP90 Gear oil results in excessively high pressure in the overdrive. ( I think this may have originated from some testing carried out by a US specialist .. ).
As I understand it, Gear Oils and Engine Oils use a different SAE viscosity scale, such that an SAE85 Gear Oil is similar in viscosity to an SAE30 Engine Oil and SAE90 is about equivalent to SAE40 in an Engine oil.
This seems to be consistent with Castrol’s specification above.
I can’t see much scope for using anything thinner, since I suspect the gearbox is generally more fragile than the overdrive.
Cheers,
RobinC
I use Castrol VMX80 in 3 TRs, two TR2s with A type and a TR6 with a J type. All of the overdrives work very well and have for many years on two of the cars.
The TR2 I have just rebuilt does have a more solid od engagement than its well used brother which is probably as it should be.
The TR6 od works fine in and out.
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It can't be cost effective, it would cost 100,000pds to restore it. Parts only in Australia.
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16 hours ago, Bill.P. said:
Same book John, but one edition was published by Motorbooks in the USA, and the rights were later taken over by Herridge and Sons here in UK, who republished it when it went out of print. It is still available new from Herridge's website as far as I know......Bill P.
Thanks Bill.
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I am chasing a copy of Bill's book "Original Triumph TR the Restorers Guide" and see what looks like the same book with "Collectors Guide" in the title.
Are they the same book? If not, which one has the best originality details for my long door car.
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15 hours ago, barkerwilliams said:
John,
I did not think tidy and clean garages existed, it's obviously a very rare beast.
Alan
I have to fit 3 TRs in it plus the family car when room is available. We bought the house 3 years ago, me because of the 8m X 7.7m garage.
My wife and I painted the floor in an epoxy which has proved pretty resilient and does really help. Oil etc wipes off and I just sweep it occasionally.
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One day it will look like this.
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Personally, I like the narrow tyre look on TR2s. It gives a more classic appearance.
My daily driver TR2 has 4 1/2"60 spoke chrome wires with 165/15 tyres.
My just restored long door TR2 has original steel wheels with 165/15 tyres. I also have 4 silver painted 60 spoke wires with Dunlop Roadspeed tyres using 6mm spacers. These are for show only (the tyres are near new tread and in very good condition appearance wise, but are maybe 50 years old) . A few photos below.
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My wife and I have just returned from our National Concours in Ballarat, Victoria in our daily driver 1954 TR2. There are photos here https://www.tr-register.com.au/default.htm. The TR Register here is purely a sidescreen and derivatives club and we had about 70 sidescreen cars and a few visitor later TRs and Stags.
Over 8 days we covered 1535 miles on 110km/h freeways and various country roads. Cruising at around 110-115 km/h the last leg was exactly 350 miles Albury to Sydney with a coffee and a lunch stop.
Average 31.5 mpg, best 32.1 on the freeway coming home with the top and passenger sidescreen in place. The worst 30 mpg nudging it along on country roads. It has a high port head and carbies.
About 700ml of engine oil and about 100ml in the gearbox (it leaks a bit) to top up at home. No coolant and no brake fluid. Points needed adjusting, one windscreen soft top stud needed refitting and the steering column mount under the dashboard needed tightening.
It is ready to go again.
Not bad for a 65 year old car.
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7 minutes ago, tr2_applegreen said:
Here is a picture of the other side, where you can better see the bubbles.
I see the problem.
Is the beading around the top of the stone guard an original feature or something you did to tidy it up?
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55 minutes ago, tr2_applegreen said:
That was also done on my apple green TR2. However, some pitting/bubbles occured, which is why I would like to renew those.
I would highly be interested in a good solution.
It looks good in the photo.
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20 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi Pete,
the very early stuff was cotton covered. The later stuff some for of colour coded plastic.
I have a small sample here (kindly sent through by Dan). can't remember of hand if it is round or Half round. It does have quite a deep flange.
Roger
Thanks Roger,
My car is TS3732O. Would it have been cotton covered?
I have used a marine fabric over a rubber core I made from the rubber tubing you use to hold fly screen in a screen door.
We have just had our Concours this past weekend and for the first time there were no 3As and there were two long doors and a 3 in Concours class, marvellous, and I will have mine finished by next year (next month hopefully) so 3 long doors at that standard. The two this year used plastic tubing they colour matched to their cars and they looked good.
John
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Hi, any suggestions on where I can get some original looking body coloured wing beading for my signal red early TR2.
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Thanks Edwin. You wouldn't have a photo of how they attach at the latch end?
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I am in need of two door pull finishers, the small chrome things that fit over the end of the door pulls. I have two, just need another two.
Any leads gratefully appreciated.
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9 hours ago, brian-nz said:
Hi John
Yes I have always fitted my old hood from the back first. I tried the new one both ways. Either way the seams do not line up with the hood bows. I Have also tried relaxing the bows as suggested in the video but when putting back up it creates a huge amount of pressure on the windscreen frame. I know the hood needs to be a tight fit but this is beyond tight. Given that the seams don't line up I believe that the hood has not been made correctly. It will be interesting to see where Johns friend one came from. Perhaps a bad batch?. I am working with TRF who in turn have gone back to Robbins. Waiting for there conclusion.
Brian
Hi Brian, an unusual problem.
I have found on my 2 TR2s, a mates TR2 and on another mates 3A that the hood bow measurements in the diagram above aren't correct. The vertical distance above the top of the screen to the front bow is closer to 2", not 4". At 4" the top looks quite unusual and often the tops don't fit, like yours.
The other measurements are close noting that the distance between the front two bows is fixed so the only one that can be really adjusted is the rear bow.
We have our National Rally next weekend. Two couples from NZ are joining us.
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I always fit the back first and then the screen. I have never seen any of our members fit the top the other way around. You can't get a grip on the hood at the back to pull it down.
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Interesting. My wife and I are archaeology/history enthusiasts and have travelled much of Britain, France, Italy, Croatia and Greece exploring Roman and earlier sites. A love of old cars, old buildings and history seems to run a theme here.
Some of our highlights were a great week in York volunteering on a dig, a week on the outer Hebrides, exploring ancient Ireland and exploring Roman Italy avoiding the tourist sites.
Do all the editions of this book feature the TR2?
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I installed a Moss exhaust to my long door car using a TR4 gearbox located exhaust mount. It was a bit of a fiddle but it did fit ok and has been good for the 565 miles it has done.
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I would like to add an opinion here.
I spent months researching the paint and trim colours for my restoration. I have the original interior, albeit in varying stages of deterioration. I wanted the closest match as possible.
I worked with Jonathon Skinner over some months to match his available colours with my samples. Jonathon was absolutely outstanding, he must have sent 3 or more samples to me in Australia and me in the other direction.
The New Tan leather/vinyl and the brown carpets he has are a very close match to the brown that my car had originally.
The interior is very nice indeed. The carpets are more difficult. These cars vary a bit in shape and things like the gearbox tunnel alignment varies a lot. The carpet fit is very good but not as good as the interior kit.
Jonathon's after sales service has been fantastic, even from this distance.
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3 hours ago, Rodbr said:
Hi Roger,
Mine is as you know an early car although not as early as yours and the bits covered in leather were not that many. dash top, door caps, 's' caps on quarter panels, seat cushions, and seat fronts. I have no reason the suppose it is not original
So the following trim was in Leatherette type material. Dash, the narrow Hockey stick section holding covered draft excluder, door panels and pockets internally, quarter panel covers. and three parts of the rear capping. Also the rear flat cockpit cover over the tank was in the same material.
The material is not vinyl but much thinner and not very stretchy unless heated a little. It took a lot of work finding the equivalent modern material and it is similar to covers used on old valve radios. This stuff is about 1mm -1.5mm thick and it goes brittle with age, the thickness is very important particularly on the "hockey" stick sections that hold the draft excluders also covered in the same material. The thin plywood needs the very thin material to show the definition of the rounded edges.
Rightly or wrongly I made my door pockets from Plywood 3-4 mm thick same as the cardboard and also the rear compartment board in scored ply the get the support and definition.
Don't quote me but the boot fuel tank cover was painted body colour not black on my car, how original that is I have no idea.
Note the end caps for door caps have end "buttons " made from material and not chrome buttons like the 3a and also foot well sides in very thin carpets. The original carpets were in a very thin and the gearbox cover in multi sections. I had mine made specially from a sample of the original material.
I stand to be corrected as normal if I have it wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hope this helps.
Best
Rod.
My car is not as early as yours, TS3732O, but I have much of the original interior.
It has leather cappings on the front sections back to the hockey stick pieces behind the doors, and vinyl on the rear three pieces.
Seat faces were leather and the rest vinyl, The wheel arches are also vinyl.
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All fixed. The solenoid holding coil wasn't working and the pull in coil was staying on. When we tested it on the bench we didn't have it on long enough to reveal the problem. It packed up after about 10 minutes on the freeway in od.
I replaced the solenoid, I wanted to avoid taking the tunnel out again having just had the new carpet installed.
I subsequently found the fuse the auto electrician had installed was blown. I didn't do the od wiring so had to trace it all and write it down to figure out what was wrong. The fuse wasn't in an obvious place.
In parallel my headlights stopped working. Again I had to trace it all and start a process to find the fault. It turned out to be the switch. I had a spare, that didn't work properly and I was just about to order a new one when I found another spare, this one the original from the car. It works perfectly.
The car is back together, the carpet returned to its place ok, and everything is working.
Happy days. Three working TRs!
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Mt restoration TR2 overdrive dropped out yesterday while driving on a freeway. The solenoid wasn't working.
Now electrics are my very weak skill set.
I tested the dashboard switch and the cutout switch on the gearbox and they appear to be working. Operating the dash switch and the cut out (by moving the car into 4th and out) you can hear the relay operating which it wouldn't if the switches were inoperative. I removed the dash switch and tested it with the multimeter and it appeared OK.
Under the car the wiring at the gearbox was tight.
With no obvious faults I took the tunnel off.
The solenoid wiring, where it goes into the solenoid was frayed and wasn't in good condition. The solenoid I thought was pretty new but when I looked at it closely it is likely it is the original 1954 one.
When I hot wired the solenoid it it did work, once, later attempts it didn't work. After a bit of fiddling the solenoid did work each time I hot wired it. However, if I held on the hot wiring the wires got very hot so I disconnected. The solenoid will be replaced but I'm not sure that is the full problem.
When I measure the voltage at the solenoid, cut out switch or dashboard switch I get about 5 volts.
The system goes through a relay.
I expected I would see 12 volts at the solenoid. I can't see why I am only getting about 5 volts.
????????
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Looking for TR2 carburetor float lids (SU HS4, AUE 998)
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
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What is in the metal box?