John McCormack
-
Content Count
1,363 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by John McCormack
-
-
On 12/18/2021 at 2:47 AM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Had me going there for a minute.
I’d never seen one in the flesh let alone fitted until doing a web search and finding this.
Owned by Chris Olson, TR Register Australia member. I'm going to his farm tomorrow for a weekend working bee.
The car next to it is also an Australia Register owner. It has a 6 cylinder PI engine in it, but the original block is with the car.
-
2 hours ago, Waldi said:
The Blue Mountains, that sounds like magic. Enjoy the tour.
Waldi
Called the Blue Mountains because when viewed from a distance they appear blue because the eucalypt leaves contain an oil and emit an 'oil' type vapour.
When I was younger and Sydney smaller the mountains could appear a deep blue. You don't see it quite as much now with Sydney growing and more pollution. In a westerly wind it is still a sight.
The eucalypt oil is a major reason our bush fires are so intense, and trees can explode although not touched by the actual fire.
-
22 hours ago, Waldi said:
Hi John,
This is a good method. I made some extra markings on the pulley to see where max. advance is.Off course, when it is running so nice you need to dismantle is to understand why:)
Cheers,
Waldi
You are right, it is running very nicely. I just filled it up and I seem to have improved fuel consumption from about 18mpg around town to 23mpg, admittedly with a longer drive in the middle of around town driving.
After some more thought I retarded it a couple of degrees to now 15-16 deg BTDC at 700rpm. I'm going on a longer open road run over the Blue Mountains on Saturday and back Monday. I'll play with it and see where it ends up.
-
I have physically checked the pulley and the TDC mark is spot on to TDC of No 1 piston.
The timing is now set at 18 deg BTDC at 700rpm idle.
It advances to about 35 deg at revs. It is a bit hard to measure on your own (the markings only go to 24 deg) and it might be a few deg more than 35 at revs .
I set it as described above so there was no pinging under any loads. I then retarded it a couple of deg just to add a margin in case I just couldn't hear the engine pinging.
The car is performing superbly with very good power and acceleration. Idles nicely with a slight lumpiness at 700rpm, like an early PI should.
The local Triumph mechanic, very experienced and very well regarded, says to leave it as it is if there is no pinging.
-
14 hours ago, cp25616 said:
Have to agree with Waldi. David your initial question has been answered in the posts above. However your answer included this quote " This isn’t the way to diagnose my problems and get a solution that is the right one" then you haven't asked the correct question in the first place. How can we diagnose your problem when you haven't told us what it is?
Alan G
Yep.
-
On 3/17/2022 at 7:40 PM, Steves_TR6 said:
18btdc seems a lot to me
how did you check that tdc on the pulley is actually tdc ?
i made a tool out of an old spark plug to check mine, as pictured
insetred in no 1, gently turn engine to touch the tool, mark pulley, gently turn the engine the other way to touch the tool, mark the pulley
tdc is halfway between the marks.
on my car this was nowhere near to the tdc mark on the pulley !
Steve
I'll do that to check. As the pulley is keyed onto the crankshaft I see no reason why it won't be right.
-
5 hours ago, Peter Cobbold said:
18 BTDC is about right for a low compression head (mine is 8.5:1)
Is your cylinder head standard CP-spec?
As far as I know, and the known history of the car goes back 32 years, it is a stock early CP PI 150bhp engine.
-
On 3/12/2022 at 5:21 PM, John McCormack said:
Yep, the pulley is in the correct position. Interestingly a mate and I have just been through that issue with his TR2.
If 12-13 degrees advanced is about right it would explain the better performance. I'm using BP 98 octane no ethanol.
I took the car on a longer run today including a freeway at 110-115 km/h. It is going superbly and there is no pinging at any speed or load.
However, when I got home I put the timing light on her and the timing is a lot more advanced than I thought. Closer to 18 degrees BTDC at 750rpm.
I intend leaving it where it is, the performance is excellent and I cannot detect any pinging even though I am listening hard for it.
Is 18 degrees advanced at idle out of the ordinary?
-
17 hours ago, DRD said:
Sounds like its about right now, mine is set to around 12 BTC. I do find that over time the timing gradually gets retarded and I have to readjust again.
20 hours ago, Steves_TR6 said:Have you checked that the timing marks actually are aligned with tdc….. as they can slip.
i found mine to be 5 pr so degrees out when i was fitting a new 123 distributor a few years ago.
Steve
Yep, the pulley is in the correct position. Interestingly a mate and I have just been through that issue with his TR2.
If 12-13 degrees advanced is about right it would explain the better performance. I'm using BP 98 octane no ethanol.
-
I have been a bit underwhelmed with the get up and go of my 1970 CP PI TR6.
The car was idling between 8-900 rpm and was going ok but lacked something. It is a stock engine with Lumenition ignition the only upgrade. The rest of the tune was done recently, tappets, plugs, cap, leads etc but at the time I was unable to adjust the timing, and it seemed ok so I left it.
When I started the process yesterday it was about 6 degrees advanced at 850rpm idle.
I advanced it by rotating the distributor to around 20 degrees advance at idle, the micrometer adjustment was fully advanced so I had plenty of retardation available to me. A test drive revealed pinging so I retarded it about 8 degrees, pinging stopped so I advanced it 5 degrees. Very slight pinging so again retarded it 3 or so degrees. No pinging with it about 13 degrees advanced at now a 750 rpm idle.
The idle is now as smooth as expected with a CP car at 700-750rpm. I feel I've got an extra 5 to maybe 10% more grunt.
Thoughts?
-
19 minutes ago, kevine said:
A Type
Most likely the solenoid isn't pulling in properly or adjustment. If the od was working before it is highly unlikely to be an internal problem. The oil must be extraordinarily low for the od not to work.
When you engage the overdrive check that the solenoid is pulling up properly. It can click but not pull all the way up. How much it pulls might depend on the application but a good 6mm or 1/4" should be about right.
I find with mine the normal use of a bar through the hole in the arm doesn't work with the wear in the overdrives now. I'd suggest you take it a mm or two further than the book adjustment.
DO NOT PUT THE CAR INTO REVERSE IF YOU SUSPECT AT ALL THE OD IS ENGAGED. IT IS A SURE WAY TO LITERALLY BLOW THE OD AND GEARBOX APART.
-
Is it an A or J type?
-
1 hour ago, stuart said:
Whatever you do dont buy a new ratchet section as theyre just wrong.
Stuart.
Yep, I've replaced a few and the new ones don't fit.
-
21 hours ago, Hamish said:
Thats just fantastic John. A credit to you.
I’d leave it alone it looks great.The Skinner kit isn't perfect, but gee it is damn good. The pre and post sales service by John was exceptional, which would see me use Skinners for any upholstery upgrades.
-
6 hours ago, TwinCamJohn said:
I have just finished an overhaul of the TR3A front suspension.
I imagine most parts come from the same place although they are sold by different companies.
The top ball joints would not bolt into the upper wishbones, sufficiently to get the split pin in.
On checking, the threaded part is shorter and the hole further away from the top.
The only way was to use a thinner washer and the old castellated nuts which I discovered had the castellations more profond than the new ones.
And as if that wasn't enough, I took out the new grease nipple to replace it with the right angled ones from the old parts. They are not the same size. New is smaller and would not screw up when I tried to return it. The top of the body is made of very cheap metal and very thin. I had to deform the thread a little and add loctite red to get it to stay.
Why are we surrounded by so much shite.? Profit no doubt.
I often have similar issues. It isn't profitable to make quality as most purchases are driven by price.
-
12 hours ago, Hamish said:
i know what you mean John. but with my car i wouldn't be devastated if i found a chip or scratch after a day out adjust touch it up.
The long door car gets the occasional chip and sometimes biggish ones, unavoidable on freeways at 110-120km/h with trucks all around and on back roads with gravel edges. That doesn't concern me as the car, while immaculate, gets used and often with vigour.
The everyday TR2 has lots of chips, scrapes and the upholstery is often mistaken for the 1954 original, it isn't but was done in 1982 so is now 40 years and 200,000 miles old. I've had this car since February 1976, 46 years this month and, apart from 3 years 1980-83 when I pulled the body off and restored it, it has been my everyday car.
I've just bought new seats, the originals are cracked around the base, and might get a Skinners kit for it. The driver's seat was repaired about 15 years ago, you can see the newer centre in the squab, but it is now beyond its useful life. As much as I like the patina, it isn't very comfortable with torn leather and compressed padding.
And if I redo the upholstery the tatty exterior will look even more tatty so do I undertake a body restoration as well?
I go through this process regularly and every time decide to just keep driving it.
-
12 hours ago, billy l said:
Hi John, you can just make it out in these pics, it is secured under the thermostat housing/top hose connection with a clip on the bottom nut. Cheers, Bill.
Thank you. Done, one more step on the road to getting the car right.
-
Has anyone a picture of the correct routing of the vacuum advance pipe from the distributor to the front carburetor? I'm after the original factory route.
-
15 hours ago, Hamish said:
The best way to have them in my opinion.
I agree, to a degree.
My daily driver is quite rough around the edges, it has lots of patina. It gets used to do errands, the shopping, take rubbish to the tip and on long interstate drives. I could drive it to Perth with confidence.
My long door TR2 is quite immaculate and only goes out on nice days, which happens pretty often here. But I could also drive it to Perth with confidence.
My TR6 is somewhere in between, pretty nice but with patina and it gets used just for fun.
There is a place for both in my view.
-
Any pre TS1200 TR2 is good to have but I don't see this as an easy restoration. Yes, you could tidy it up and drive it but it will need a full mechanical restoration first and without a body restoration it will rot away after the first 12 months in the rain.
It looks to me that the car needs a complete restoration. At $29,500 US plus another $30,000 or more on a restoration this will be an expensive TR2.
Maybe that is just reflective of the increased asking prices down here. What was a $55-60,000 car a year ago is now seeking $80,000.
-
8 hours ago, oxf2 said:
Has the red 3a got a bit of a white border around the edge of the black painted area on the apron? Looks like it to me, and looks good.
Yes it does. It is an ex race car and is quite rough around the edges but in excellent mechanical nick.
-
3 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
You have to take into account that of those 500, more than 1500 still survive..... My friend looked at one once for re-import to UK. A genuine flat floor 4.2.....,
They made 7500 Morris Cooper S in Australia. At last count 10,000 are still on the road.
-
An excellent run this morning to our monthly coffee get together south of Sydney. Once out of the city it is a run down the freeway then a climb over what we call Razorback. It gives the cars a great run. A bit warm here in the high 20s C but quite pleasant.
I took the long door TR2, there was a gaggle of 3As (another BRG one left before I got the photos) and a couple of our members more modern cars.
-
11 hours ago, Lebro said:
One of mine has a very weak spring, I have to push it back down after every use. It has not harmed (or even touched) the paintwork though.
Bob
The teardrop should rest on its base keeping it clear of the paint work. This sometimes doesn't happen, but it has on mine.
Horn Location?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I'm revisiting this horn mounting. Mine has air horns and I don't like them.
Can someone please post a photo of the correct mounting arrangement?