JohnC
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Posts posted by JohnC
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Sorry, senior moment - I have a Motolita wheel so the original setup may be different...
John -
2 hours ago, Waldi said:
It’s the other way Trevor,
pushing the button “shorts” the horn circuit to mass.But, either way, it sounds like you're right. There should be a metal contact extending from the small nut in the centre of the horn push to make contact with the end of the pencil. The problem is always related in some way to the nut at the wheel...
John
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There should be a hole in the boss with a spring-loaded horn pencil in it (plastic tube with metal contacts either end). That connects the ring to a contact on the horn push, which in turn is grounded via the boss.
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Hi fellow members,
Is anyone else having difficulty viewing any of the technical seminar videos? When I try, I get the message "Playback temporarily disabled. Please contact support for more information." Just wondering if it's just me or more widespread. There's no link to "support" so I've emailed the technical@ account.
Cheers,
John -
2 hours ago, Dave Squance said:
Do we know of anybody in the TR register that I’ve used them and confirm their system is good for the TR6
I have it and it's fantastic. Straightforward to fit but only with an electric fan mounted in front of the rad. Yes, Alasdair can be a little slow to respond to emails. I seem to recall he has somebody who helps him manage the Facebook Messenger channel so try that as well.
JC -
On 2/5/2024 at 1:43 AM, Steve-B said:
I know purists may prefer green as originally that's what was supplied however I'm considering red for 2 reasons. First my car is red, and second, red is proven easier on the eyes in the dark than other colours.
Anyone installed red dashboard lights from ClassicLEDs?
Yes. They work fine but you'll need a dimmer as they are very bright. I made one per Bob's design above and it works a treat. BTW I don't know what market had green dash lights. Both my large dials have blue diffusers. Not that they did much; the original lights were always a dim yellowish glow!
Cheers,
John -
Thanks Derek. That's clear. I assume the different pattern in the lens gives a different spread of light. BTW I see the eBay item has sold.
JC -
I'm toying with the idea of fitting a home-made logic unit. What has help me up so far (apart from an unsuccessful attempt at using ICs) is what momentary switch to use. I've seen the various alternatives others here have used. What I'm wondering is whether the original stalk switch can be modified to momentary operation. Has anyone looked into this?
Cheers,
JC -
17 hours ago, saffrontr said:
Hi the auction you are looking at is for a USA side marker.
Hi Derek,
Out of interest, how can one tell the difference? Aren't they both amber lenses?
Cheers,
JC -
As far as tips go, please use the search function. Or, better still, use a Google search but add "site:www.tr-register.co.uk" at the end. You may have luck including the term "fag paper"...
JC -
20 hours ago, Z320 said:
It can’t popp out, there is a stop clip.
Mine did not come with a stop clip, and has popped out. I wonder how many variants are out there of the slave cylinder.
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5 minutes ago, RogerH said:
Fitting as per the ROM makes sense as the bolts are simply locating and not taking all the pressure
I hate it when somebody brings logic to an opinion party! That was a joke BTW. Good point. And same to Rob. If it works, chill...
JC -
9 minutes ago, RogerH said:
I'm sure I read somewhere that there was a conflict in the pictures but not sure which was correct.
Fair enough. I can't claim the ROM is correct. As you say, it conflicts with the parts catalogue. And my slave came with a machined face on the back (i.e. "insert from the front") but that didn't work for me. But knowing that one has a choice may help somebody.
FWIW my Haynes manual also has a sketch showing the slave inserted from the back. I'm not sure if that's good or bad! [edit} and it shows the bracket in front of the engine back plate!
Cheers,
JC -
6 minutes ago, RogerH said:
the MOss WebCat suggests that the SC goes in from thew front but the bracket is fitted to the rear of the GB flange
I'm not disputing that. But the ROM shows the opposite. Really, it does. But my original Leyland Triumph TR6 Sports Car Parts Catalogue exploded diagram *implies* that the slave is inserted from the front (and its internals are inserted from the rear - go figure). My point is that the ROM has a sketch showing the slave in its installed position.
JC -
22 hours ago, Andy Moltu said:
The trick is finding folk who know how to do this and an almost indeterminate amount of rolling road time. That’s an ever diminishing number.
Or buy a wideband AFR sensor with associated gauge & logging kit, and make a vacuum calibration setup. It may cost less than a single rolling road session and will give you endless hours of fun! I have learnt so much about the PI system by going down that road (was that a pun?).
Cheers,
JC -
16 hours ago, RogerH said:
looking at the Moss WebCat the SC goes in from the front of the bracket.
My original Repair Operations Manual shows the opposite - the slave cylinder is inserted into the bracket from the back of the car. When mine was the other way round it was marginal - at full travel the slave piston was close to falling out of the bore. Now it's fine. But slave pushrod length has nothing to do with travel unless it results in the piston popping out.
Cheers,
JC -
FIrst, don't assume the worst (whatever that is). In your place I would remove all the spark plugs, put the engine in gear, and see if a bit of rocking by rolling the wheels back & forth shifts things. BTW removing the rocker shaft may have made things more difficult. All your valves are held shut by their springs, so harder to turn the engine.
hope this helps,
JC -
On 2/9/2024 at 2:02 AM, JohnTee said:
Success! Just had the garage on the phone. When the chap I bought it off re-built it, putting the re-conned metering unit on he seemingly used silicon sealant when fitting it, rather than the correct O-Ring. Over the course of a few years, it has obviously deteriorated. Fitting the correct seal has returned it to its former running glory. Colour me happy and content.
Thanks to all for your time, advice and opinions. Much appreciated.
John T
That’s one for the “never would have thought of that” book. Great job by the garage. Me, I’d drop by a slab of beer. But this is Australia
Which O ring BTW?
JC
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14 hours ago, Macleesh said:
It can be done without an extra switch by using a latching relay which utilises the existing flash position on the light switch to toggle the relay state when headlights are on.
It's on my list of things to do but not a priority as I don't think I've ever had the car out in the dark.
If you’re looking for one then I’m pretty sure many VWs used a latching relay which the flash function toggles.
JC -
On 2/9/2024 at 6:24 AM, mleadbeater said:
Both bearings are marked as standard, which, according to sources are .920” thick.
Mine measure .9325”thick, ie. theoretically +12.5
You could always assume the sources are wrong but the stamp is correct. If they’re virtually unworn then do as Harry says. Or order a couple of spares in different sizes and mix & match until you’re happy. The postage will likely be more than the TWs themselves!
Cheers,
JC -
My thrust bearings have lasted over 50k miles (so far) since I rebuilt the engine. Tolerances were still fine when I checked recently after a total oil loss. I'm totally unconvinced an "upgrade" is necessary except to fill the pockets of the vendor, or if you think the other components will last 200k miles + (insert ridiculous number here of your choice). Of course, you may like to ride the clutch, hold down the clutch when starting, etc, in which case YMMV.
Cheers,
JC -
Given that you can isolate the problem by pulling plug leads, that does indicate that you've already isolated the problem. Have you tried swapping leads to see if the problem moves with them?
My go-to if cylinders are behaving differently is: first, spark (check the plug gap and condition, swap the cables around to see if it moves the problem); second, throttle balancing (it does take patience to get right); and third, valve clearance. PI problems a distant last. In 39 yrs of TR ownership I've only had to fix the PI twice. Once because the internal seals had decided that 40yrs from new was time for retirement, and once because the injectors decided that the same was true at 50yrs. As always, YMMV.
Cheers,
JC -
8 hours ago, Z320 said:
But I’m convinced they expand about the same like the hole engine block, the difference is about zero.
That's what I'd assume as well. My *assumption* is that the heat coefficient of expansion of the cylinder head and block is almost exactly the same as the pushrods and the valves. *If* that assumption is correct then the block (above the camshaft) and the head will expand the same amount as the pushrods, and the head will expand the same amount as the valve, with a net effect of nearly zero.
@john.r.davies Please don't be offended if I've got this all wrong. What's your view?
Cheers,
JC -
2 hours ago, john.r.davies said:
Clearly a crude method, but provides a realistic result, to show, yes, you should adjust your tappets hot!
My original Triumph Repair Operation Manual (BL Part No AKM3646) states on p05-1 under Engine Tuning Data "Valve rocker clearance .... 0.010 in (0.25mm) inlet and exhaust. Engine cold"
I guess that may not be correct for non-standard cams. In that case I suggest asking the cam manufacturer.
Regards,
JC
Horn not working
in TR6 Forum
Posted
But is there a nut behind the wheel?