RobH
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Posts posted by RobH
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Tom - if it is a stray earth it must be on the coil side of the relay not the contacts/OD solenoid side. The relay coil is fed directly from the supply to terminal W1 and the OD switch and interlocks go from the coil terminal W2 to earth, so a short to earth on that line will pull the relay in permanently.
Rob
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Willie - that may not be the same stuff, that sounds like ordinary PVC adhesive tape.
I have ony ever seen self-amalgamating tape in black (though the interlayer which stops it sticking to itself while while reeled up can be in a variety of colours). It isn't a conventional sticky tape and has no adhesive coating. It is a natural-looking rubber material. You have to peel off the inter-layer and then it has to be stretched quite a lot as you wind it on. As the stretch relaxes the rubber binds to itself and combines. You can't un-wind it once stuck, it has to be cut off.
Rob
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Should be readily available even in Spain Dave - Screwfix do it (code 87717), Halfords have it (code 187719) , Its also available from RS, Farnell and Maplins. I think any decent electrical supplier or DIY store in europe should carry it but as to what they call it locally ????.
Rob
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Yep - wrong operation. The switch I have looks the same as that but is push to open, release to close. Intermotor part number 51690 on the box.
Rob
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I too have resorted to wide tie-wraps but I wonder has anyone tried butyl rubber self-amalgamating tape as used for electrical insulation? That can be wrapped around without any dismantling and as the name suggests amalgamates into a solid ring of material.
Rob
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I fitted a spin-on adaptor from Moss five years ago - no leaks and I would not go back to the old arrangement.
Bob is spot on with his advice. I seem to recall that Loctite was specified by the fitting instructions for the central threaded adaptor and I think I lightly greased the sealing ring and rotated the adaptor body slightly just as it came into contact with the seal, to ensure it bedded squarely before fully tightening down.
Its odd that people have such different experiences with what is really a very simple device. Wide variations in manufacture perhaps?
Rob
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Rich - make sure they are straight before you buy. Too many of the steel wheels on offer are out of true and won't balance or run straight.
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Those in the business tend to call it 'additive manufacture' - basically just putting in the material you do want rather than removing the stuff you don't as you would with conventional machining. Metal parts can be stronger than those made conventionally because the material properties are uniform and there are no built-in stresses as is the case with fabrication. You can produce parts with internal features which are impossible to make otherwise. The machine usually works on a fixed volume of metal powder laid down in layers and most of the unused powder can be reclaimed afterwards - so it costs very little in material and nothing in process time to add an extra small something in what would otherwise be unused space. The main cost would be in preparing the 3D computer model for download to the machine and in the additional time taken to break out and clean up the finished article. The range if metals which can be used is wide, including steels of course.
Rob -
That cannot possibly be - if you had the pulley 180 out it would align on bottom-dead-centre and as Bob says, the engine would not run.
If you did the balloon test for TDC and set the new dizzy to fire on No 1 aligned with the timing mark it MUST work because you have set it to do so. Again- if you had got that wrong the engine would not run.
It sounds as though your 'problem' may be that your timing light is lying to you. Have you tried a different one?
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You are right about the polarity Bob, I hadn't thought of that. Of course in that case it will make a difference if the ignition coil polarity on the TR4 is wrong, even if Roger has the clip on the right way round.
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As you say....
It could be that the spark on the 4A is just that bit stronger (or perhaps has faster rise-time) and hence consistently gets above the firing threshold of the lamp. From your description the only difference between the cars which might affect things are the resistive plugs on the '4.
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If you do manage to get that info Clive and need more takers to make it worthwhile, then I would be interested. I have looked at my screens but its not clear how the glass is held in place - might be glued ?
Rob
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Roger I guess you mean the lamp flash was intermittent rather than the engine was 'missing'? That does not imply that there is anythig wrong with the car's ignition.
The strobe lamp pick-up is usually a pulse transformer with a split ferrite core which you clamp around the plug lead. Firing of the lamp circuit will depend on the magnitude and rise-time of the ignition pulse detected. If the the pickup transformer is a bit iffy or the pulse a bit weak the lamp circuit may not detect it properly and hence might not fire every time.
Does the clamp close properly so that the flat faces of the core are squarely in contact ? If it does not or if there is crud between the faces of the split core, that could cause bad pickup. Its also easy to damage the ferrite core by 'snapping' the clamp shut. That can cause cracks in the material which will affect performance by making the thing less sensitive.
Rob
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The problem with those things is the cooling. An alternator regulator and rectifier needs to be kept cool but its very difficult when sleeved in a dynamo casing and mounted close to the exhaust manifold. A 45amp unit is pushing it a bit for reliability let alone 55A.
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Your present turns-per-mile ratio should actually be written on your speedo dial Roger - just under the mileometer window. (at least it is on my 3a).
Rob
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Easy to check whether the spacer is needed. The earlier flatter spring is 40.5 inches eye-to-eye but the later deep-dish springs which need the lowering block had an eye-to-eye dimension of 39.5 inches.
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Since no-one has replied yet Tom - here is a photo of mine. I don't claim that this is in any way standard though. I have extra connections in there for an alternator and a feed to headlamp relays.
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Very interesting question and one which is not easy to answer.
The mileometer is driven by gears so is directly related to the drive ratio while the speedo needle is a magnetic coupling and the needle position depends on the speed of the drive, the strength of the magnet and return spring and finally on the position of the needle relative to the spindle. An error in the drive gearing will affect both the miles and the speed so if that is the reason for yours over-reading on speed the answer to your question is yes the miles will over-read too.
However, it is possible for the drive ratio to be correct and the mileometer to be reading correctly but the speed indication to be wrong because of errors in the magnet, spring or pointer position. The only way to find out which it is, is to have the speedo calibrated somehow.
Rob
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Yes Ben the temperature sensor is in the thermostat housing - its the thing which is connected to what looks like a thin pipe with a wire wrapped around it. Given that it was working before the coolant loss it does seem you must have air in there, unless you have been very unlucky and suffered a gauge faliure too. I wonder whether it might be worth loosening the top of the bypass hose slightly (the one just above the sensor which goes down to the pipe on the near side of the engine) just to see whether you can let any air bubble out.
Rob
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I have found that by 'squishing' the longer hoses as much as you can (with the engine off of course), trapped air can be made to move. Then run it for a bit to circulate the coolant and squish again - repeat until no more air comes out. I guess raising the front a bit may help as long as the filler neck stays the highest point. The question is though - if that was the cause of the first coolant loss how did the air get in there in the first place ? Did the PO do some work on the cooling system before you got the car perhaps ?
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Ben -
that cap says 'Evans' which is 100% glycol and the cap has no pressure spring which is correct for such a system, as it does not need to be pressurised because the boiling point of the fluid is high compared with water. There are very different opinions as to the merits (or otherwise) of that stuff though. What have you been topping it up with ? Is it possible there is water in there despite the warning on the cap ?
Rob
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Frank -
I take it to mean there should be a further 10-20 thou ( mil in US I believe) of movement between when the contact has first 'made' and the point where the armature is fully bottomed on the pole piece. This ensures there is some spring pressure on the contacts.
Rob
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The only thing from my ancient Engineers Reference Book which is close to your measurements Bob is a pre-ISO French Standard thread - 0.75 mm pitch (33.87 tpi) and 5mm OD with 60 degree thread form.
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"At this price an item that's worth reproducing! Something for the Spares Fund to pick up?"
IMHO there are better things for the spares fund to concentrate on. New 4 1/2 J steel wheels for one.
Front Suspension Seals
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Sorry - misunderstood which post you were replying to.