[Choke Cable Route and P Clip]

Bob

I have HS6 carbs. My choke cable is attached to the front carb. Does it make any difference - front or back. Reason I ask is that I have rough running on cold start up - won't run properly until it is hot. Carbs have been tuned albeit when engine hot. Have tried full choke , half choke and is very frustrating especially when having to rev hard at lights and then bunny hopping through them.

Regards

Brian

[Oil Filter head leak]

Hi All

There was a recent thread which I cannot now find. I too have an oil leak around the oil filter. Before replacing the oil filter I tightened the nut holding the spin on adapter. This was loose and oil leak fixed there, however another leak has developed or likely to have been there all along. It appears to be coming from the gasket between the engine and oil filter head.

Can just undo the bolts holding it to the engine and take out as one unit and replace the gasket or is it not as simple as that?

 

Regards

 

Brian

[do mx5 seats fit a 3a?]

Hi

Is the wind coming around the back of the neck reduced / eliminated with the higher backed seats with the headrest removed

Regards

Brian

[Harmonic damper and thin belt conversion kit]

Hi Tony

I also live in NZ (Whangarei). I changed my 1957 TR3 to narrow belt and left the 6 blade tropical fan and extention in place. I purchased mine from the TR Shop. No problems to date.Good to deal with and helpful. I see they have in their specials damped and undamped for 125 to 140 pounds. The exchange rate isn't too bad at the moment ( due to Brexit) and you won't need to pay GST (VAT in the UK) if under $400 NZ. Cost of freight is the only down side.

Brian

[handbrake cable from lever]

Hi All

I will shortly be replacing the handbrake cable from the lever to compensator . I note that the cable passes through two bridges/tunnels? with nut and bolt. Is the nut and bolt to hold it in place and how tight should these be? Will over tightening crimp the inner cable?

Brian

[Sidescreen installation and alignment]

Hi, while on this subject can anyone give advice on how to fix the gap at the bottom front of the sidescreen between the windscreen upright and the scuttle where it rounds down. I have quite a gap where wind and rain can get in. Does the sidescreen frame have to be bent slightly at the front to accommodate this

 

Thanks

Brian

[Picture of BootBag on a Sidescreen Car]

We purchased a bootbag and used for the first time in March when we went to our Nationals ( and post tour, 2000km in all). We found it great to use, was cheaper than purchasing a boot rack and suitcase. The weather was hot and sunny until we headed home. The rain came and was heavy at times,. We had no issues with water in the bag or the boot. More water came in the cockpit than anywhere else. The good thing is that we can also use it on my wifes MX5.

Brian

[What have I got!?]

Hi Tom

My TR3 -TS16239-O was built 26th February 1957 and shipped to New Zealand, chassis Z28. So your car could be late 1956 in CKD form. From memory the disc brake /girling system came in at the beginning of 1957 so your car is likely to have had Lockheed system and upgraded by a previous owner.

 

Good luck in your search for more history on your car

 

Brian

[TR2 Muffler - 18 inch]

HI Dan

I have the same set up on my TR3. Yes it is loud but I like it, my wife not so much. A number of people at our recent Nationals commented that it had a nice burble and sound.

Brian

[TR2 Front suspension rebuild - vertical links]

Hi Dan

While the suspension is apart you should have both the vertical links and stub axles crack tested. I didn't and as a consequence had a vertical link snap about 2 inches of the thread in the trunnion. Fortubnately only doing 30kph at the time and no other damage done but could have been more serious at a higher speed. I also replaced the wheel bearing as a matter of course.

Brian

[Loose wire wheel hub adaptor]

Hi.

I recently had a mechanic friend help me with the front wheel bearings. He noticed that the hub and adapter had painted surfaces which is a big no no from an engineering stand point - I had painted the hub when I rebuilt the suspension but the adapters came painted. We scraped off all the paint, in fact some paint had blistered due to the heat generated.

The hub and adapter should have a metal to metal surface otherwise the paint can cause the two parts to slip and move which in turn could snap the studs. As I am no engineer I was grateful for the advice and something you may wish to check.

Regards

Brian

[Steering idler arm-passenger side]

Hi All

Took the 3 for its warrant today (MOT) and passed

The tester noted that the left hand steering idler has a bit of slop in it and may need replacing ( car is RHD) - he is a classic car enthusiast and said he was happy with it but another tester might not be.

 

I notice from the Moss and Rimmer catalogues that the arm has a thread so obviously screws into the bracket.

 

Would it be a matter of seeing if this is screwed in tight enough or is there a bush that can be inserted or is it new parts required.

Thanks

Brian

[mph to revs]

Hi All

Having completed a 1324 mile trip to go to our TR Nationals, I noted that at 60mph 100kph) the rev counter was registering about 2700 revs in top overdrive

 

Can anyone advise if this is correct. Others cars seemed to be revving at 2500rpm.

I do not know what diff I have (3.7 or 4.1) but a PO has street raced the car some years ago.

 

Regards

Brian

[TR4 Brake Switch]

Hi Tom

I recently had an issue with my pressure switch and after advice from fellow forum members changed to a mechanical one. I purchased an uprated TR6 switch and with photos that Menno supplied was able to position under the dash against the pedal. As BrianC says, it can be adjusted to come on with the slightest pressure.

Brian

[Sump Gasket- paper or cork]

Hi All

Thank you for all your advice. Just one other thing - I note that spring washers are used in the Moss catalogue. Are spring washers used for both the steel and alloy sumps or are flat washers used.

Regards

Brian

[Sump Gasket- paper or cork]

Hi All

I need to replace the gasket on my alloy sump. I think there is a good chance that there is more oil on the garage floor than in the engine,

I have searched the forum for an answer but no posts on this particular subject

 

Can anyone advise best solution

Thanks

Brian

 

[Planned Upgrades/Refurbishment Of Turk'S Bits]

Dave, I have sent you PM re BreezeBreaker - could you also send me info.

Regards

Brian

[su carbs]

Thanks all.

Consensus is that a change to SM is required

 

Viv I have sent an email to Midel so should get an answer in next few days and will post their thoughts once received.

 

Regards

Brian

[su carbs]

HI All

When I had the carbs on my TR3 rebuilt I found that they are HS6 ones from a 1976 Triumph 2000. I purchased the kit along with the correct needles for them. From memory they are BCY. The existing needles had flat spots filed on them.

 

I find that even after much adjustment that the car runs quite rich and wondered whether I need to purchase different needles more suited to a TR engine, if so which ones.

 

Your thoughts would be appreciated

 

Regards

Brian

[Been told TuRK needs a new.....................]

Hi. It is time to deal to the sidescreens on my car so timing on this thread is good.

- I see that from previous thread that I will need to strip them down to the frames to get a good fit.

My question is that there appears to be a gap between where the screen butts up to the windscreen frame and the curvature of the scuttle. Is this correct and if so how is it plugged to stop water and air through or does the frame have a slight bend in it which would then put the window under pressure.

 

Your comments, or photos would be appreciated

 

Regards

Brian

[front wheel bearing felt oil seal]

Hi All

I need to replace the left front bearing and have ordered a kit from our local TR spares ( they obtain parts through Moss in large shipments).

I have read in Roger Williams book How to Restore TR2,3 etc that the felt oil seal is too thick and needs to be cut down.

 

Can anyone advise what the correct thickness should be - have the seals been corrected since the book was published. I don't what to charge ahead and cut an already correct seal.

 

Thanks

Brian

[Electric fan]

Hi All

 

Thanks for all the advice. I am leaning towards a 10" fan at the front of the radiator - a 7" may end up being too small. I will have it on a manual on / off switch and only use when required as I always keep an eye on the temperature gauge. I will also re flush the radiator as it was sitting around for about 12 months prior to installing. The water pump and thermostat are new.

 

I like the idea of Rogers in manufacturing a shroud to partially cover the radiator so may investigate this further.

 

I do not expect this to be a regular occurrance but better to be safe than sorry

 

Regards

Brian

[Electric fan]

Hi All

 

I know there has been previous discussion about electric fans but wanted a bit more advice.

 

Last weekend did a trip of about 150k (one way). Car went fine with temperature normal however when we stopped at the destination and had to wait in a queue for about 10 minutes the car boiled.

 

So I am now investigating an electric fan which will be in front of the radiator and be a secondary one for above such occassions.

 

Most people seem to have gone to either 10" or 12" ones, but I have seen advertised a smaller 7" blade one.(dimensions 210mm x 210mm x 65mm.

 

Would this be sufficient or would it be too small to do the job.

Also can the fan be installed without removing to front apron - would make life easier if it could.

 

Regards

Brian

[Vertical link breakage]

Hi Viv

As it happens the break has occurred at the top of the vertical link thread. I had noticed that the car had suffered some sort of accident damage as the shock was a different make from the other side and also there is a small indent in the chassis behind the turret. I did not think to get link checked, my mistake. Disappointing as car has only been on the road for 3 months and summer is here. Would rather be in the car than under it. New link ordered and will get other one checked once left hand side back together.

Brian

[Vertical link breakage]

Hi Don

No there was no warning. The steering had been stiff but after adjusting the steering idler it seemed okay. The trunnion was new only two years old but car had been sitting for that 2 years while body work was being carried out. The vertical link however was not new and may have suffered from previous damage. Corrosion I don't think was a factor in this case.

Brian