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Everything posted by brian-nz

  1. Hi All Can anyone supply a photo of the inner side of the sidescreen. Is there a bulbous piece at the lower front that butts up against the scuttle to stop water coming through that area. I can't find any decent pictures showing this. Or is there something others have done to eliminate this Thanks Brian
  2. I had a similar problem about 5 years ago. The horn would sound when going over a bump in the road, which was quite often. Took the fuse out for the trip home. I found it to be the metal ring on the slip ring inside the steering column had come adrift causing it to 'short' out and set off the horn. A couple of drops of super glue and no problems since. Bit of an effort to get at it but did not need to disassemble the whole control unit (which I have done and agree with others comments). Might be easier to fix than first thought. Brian
  3. Hi John Yes I have always fitted my old hood from the back first. I tried the new one both ways. Either way the seams do not line up with the hood bows. I Have also tried relaxing the bows as suggested in the video but when putting back up it creates a huge amount of pressure on the windscreen frame. I know the hood needs to be a tight fit but this is beyond tight. Given that the seams don't line up I believe that the hood has not been made correctly. It will be interesting to see where Johns friend one came from. Perhaps a bad batch?. I am working with TRF who in turn have gone back to Robbins. Waiting for there conclusion. Brian
  4. Hi Bob and Iain Yes I have checked the webbing and bow positions -TRF sent me that diagram after I indicated that there was a problem. A friend who has a TR2 lent be his set of bows (he currently has his hardtop on) and his soft top. We (upholsterer and I) checked friends bows against mine and they are close to identical. We did this to eliminate the bows. Next we fitted my friends top and although it is a couple of years old it fitted like a glove. The new hood - when fitting from the back and trying to attach to the windscreen will not go and the bow seams are way off. Attaching to windscreen first the first two seams are closer but the back seam is off and even an extreme amount of pulling will not attach to the back pegs. Measuring friends hood and new one there is an obvious difference. Some difference can be attributed to friends one being weathered but the new one doesn't come close. Attached is a photo of the back -this is with stretching as far as it will go.
  5. John Can I ask where the hood came from. I am having the same issues. Mine is a Robbins Hood which I purchased via The Roadster Factory. It is about an inch to small (measuring from windscreen to back pegs). No amount of warming /stretching will get it close and the seams do not line up with the bows. I am using a professional upholsterer to fit mine and he has had 40 years experience in the trade. Brian
  6. Thanks guys for your comments. Initially I had tried to glue in the pegs and used JB Weld but this did not work when under some pressure. Next thought as previously suggested was to braze holes and rechrome but this is a very expensive excerise over here. I have decided to replace the existing toughened glass screen with a laminated one. The old one is quite scratched and pitted. I have also decided to get a professional to put the glass in (its being done under insurance). When I restored the car about 5 years ago the windscreen person had trouble with the rubber and in the end used sealant. Has worked since then with no problems. The pegs shouldn't be an issue as I could feel where the glass was through the holes before I decided to remove the screen. The screen came out of the channel so in theory should go back in. Us Kiwis have an old saying -Anything can be fixed using a piece of number 8 wire (used for farm fences) so I am sure this issue can be overcome Cheers Brian
  7. Hi All An update on progress on my windscreen issue. I have decided to use the tenax pegs designed for the Aluminium frame. Here are a few photos of how it turned out. Thanks for everyones help Brian
  8. Hi All I have managed to drill out the rivets with the screen in situ (and without cracking). About 4 of the holes have thread visible and may just need retaping. The others I will need to plug up with JB Weld or similar as Rod suggests. I contacted Loctite as I had seen in a previous thread that they produced a thread repair kit. Unfortunately they do not bring into New Zealand any longer. They have suggested plugging the hole with Epoxy Weld, spraying the peg with silicone and inserting in the Epoxy and let set. Basically the same a Thread repair. Can anyone advise what the tap thread /tap I need to use to spruce up the "good" threads - ba x 3/16" seems to ring a bell. Or is there something similar Cheers Brian
  9. Hi Tony Yes photos and any info would be good. I too am not to bothered about originality as I want a driver car. Rod screens over here are like hens teeth so finding a replacement would be almost impossible - to fill and drill would be expensive too Regards Brian
  10. Hi I know this subject has been covered a number of times however none seem to cover my issue. A previous owner had replaced the windscreen tenax pegs with snap domes which are riveted in place. I had to replace a couple when I rebuilt the car some years ago. At that stage I had noticed that some of the threads had been drilled out. I would like to now replace the domes with the correct pegs however I suspect that the threads are too damaged to re-tap ( and hole too big). Question - I see that The Roadster Factory has pegs item number 553837 which are designed for the aluminium frame and go right through the windscreen. Has anyone used these on a steel frame. Albert from TRF has heard of people using them but has no experience himself. I am wondering if this would be a good solution to my problem. Regards Brian
  11. As I understand it the car is under restoration in Christchurch.The owner used to own my TR3. Kevin Tinkler our TR Registrar in NZ would have more information and I recall an article in our TR magazine a while back. Would be interesting to know what happened to the other car in Shanes photo. Brian
  12. Hi. While my 1974 CR TR6 motor is out and and apart I am thinking about power steering. The block is orginally from a saloon according to the block numbers, coverted to TR6 spec. Can a saloon power steering unit be transferred to the TR without any modifications (straight swap over). Have searched for previous threads but cannot find anything Thanks Brian
  13. Hi. Would it be possible for someone to copy the article and PM me. I would like to keep as I will be doing my injectors in the future. I can't seem to copy or save to my laptop. Cheers Brian
  14. Hi. I wondered if anyone had the measurements for the diff mount reinforcing brackets. The ones like Moss and Rimmers stock. The cost to import to NZ is expensive and my son in law works at an engineering company so could make some up. Any help would be appreciated. Regards Brian
  15. Hi All When I acquired by CR series TR6 it was in boxes. I have slowly started to sort out what I have and what I don't. There was no clutch at all. I have just purchased a second hand Laycock clutch cover from my local Vintage car club. Can anyone advise if a Borg and Beck clutch plate can be used as I don't have one that can be sent away for exchange. The clutch plate would be a 8.5x 10 x1.25 What are the differences between the two - would I be able to find a suitable aftermarket one as no one seems to have even a second hand one. Also a bit more difficult being on the other side of the world. I could not find anything in other threads on this. Regards Brian
  16. Hi I am tackling the UJ s on the driveshaft which is out of the car. I have removed two of the covers and UJ has come away. According to the manual these are dust covers and it appears the 'head ' of the UJ is stuck in the cover with roller bearings, this is what I assume anyway as the new UJ I have are too small to fit without the cover. How can I get the 'head' out of the cover. The covers appear to no longer be available through Moss and Rimmers. Hope I have explained this okay Brian
  17. brian-nz


    Hi Having just acquired a 1974 CR TR6 in bits I seem not to have a flywheel. Will one from a 2.5 TC fit or any 2.5 for that matter. I can always get a new tr6 Ringgear to shrink on if I need to. Regards Brian
  18. Hi I have had a chance to view the 2 engines that came with my recently purchased TR6. The prefixes are: MM and MK These are obviously not TR6 engines and I believe the MM is from a 2.5 saloon but what is the other one from. Also what is the difference from TR6 engine (bhp, slower acceleration etc). Can they be adapted to TR spec. Regards Brian
  19. brian-nz


    Hi. I am new to this forum as I have the opportunity to obtain a TR6 (CR 2812) Registered in NZ in 1974. I am a regular visitor to the sidescreen forum as I currently own a 1957 TR3. Just a coupe of questions at this stage Firstly is this commission number a 1973 or 1974 model Secondly - the car is in a dismantled state and the seats are missing. Will seats from a saloon of the same year fit. If not can anyone recommend some that will. Regards Brian
  20. Thanks guys Took the unit off yesterday and the gasket was hard and brittle and can see why it wasn't holding in the oil. Also one of the bolts was stripped which wouldn't help. Have made up a new gasket and will put back together later in the week. I had previously tightened the spin on adapter so should not leak there anymore. Will I need to undo the pipe at the gauge end to pump oil up to it Regards Brian
  21. Bob I have HS6 carbs. My choke cable is attached to the front carb. Does it make any difference - front or back. Reason I ask is that I have rough running on cold start up - won't run properly until it is hot. Carbs have been tuned albeit when engine hot. Have tried full choke , half choke and is very frustrating especially when having to rev hard at lights and then bunny hopping through them. Regards Brian
  22. Hi All There was a recent thread which I cannot now find. I too have an oil leak around the oil filter. Before replacing the oil filter I tightened the nut holding the spin on adapter. This was loose and oil leak fixed there, however another leak has developed or likely to have been there all along. It appears to be coming from the gasket between the engine and oil filter head. Can just undo the bolts holding it to the engine and take out as one unit and replace the gasket or is it not as simple as that? Regards Brian
  23. Hi Is the wind coming around the back of the neck reduced / eliminated with the higher backed seats with the headrest removed Regards Brian
  24. Hi Tony I also live in NZ (Whangarei). I changed my 1957 TR3 to narrow belt and left the 6 blade tropical fan and extention in place. I purchased mine from the TR Shop. No problems to date.Good to deal with and helpful. I see they have in their specials damped and undamped for 125 to 140 pounds. The exchange rate isn't too bad at the moment ( due to Brexit) and you won't need to pay GST (VAT in the UK) if under $400 NZ. Cost of freight is the only down side. Brian
  25. Hi All I will shortly be replacing the handbrake cable from the lever to compensator . I note that the cable passes through two bridges/tunnels? with nut and bolt. Is the nut and bolt to hold it in place and how tight should these be? Will over tightening crimp the inner cable? Brian
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