brian-nz
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Posts posted by brian-nz
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Hi Everyone
This may have been covered before but I could not find any thread.
Due to having short legs I have to have the seat right forward which impedes the full movement of the handbrake lever.
Will adjusting (shortening) the cable from the lever to the compensator fix this issue.
With the seat back the handbrake works on the last click
Regards
Brian
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Hi Marco
No I replaced the water pump a couple of years ago as the old one was leaking. Has run a bit hot since then and this is likely the reason
Brian
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Hi Everyone
Thank you for your responses.
Just an update - radiator flushed and pressure tested.
-water pump removed. The fins still all good however the measurement from fins to water pump face = 17mm. Measurement from housing face to lip =
22mm. This may be some of my cooling issues. The original which I replaced a few years ago due to leaking also measures 22mm.
New pump ordered and measured to ensure correct one.
Cap is the same one as per Moss and will test without rubber seal. It measures correctly without seal.
Regards
Brian
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Hi Everyone
I recently purchased a new radiator cap for my TR3 as I noticed the old one had a split in the bottom rubber piece.
I put the new one on and had major overheating issues.
The radiator is out and has been flushed by radiator firm.
I noticed that the new cap has a rubber seal in the top and is loose but the old cap has no such seal. They are both 4lb caps.
The radiator still has the crank hole and no overflow bottle
Should the cap have the rubber seal or not.
Regards
Brian
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Hi All
Thank you for the responses and advice.
As there is not much play in the steering I think I will leave it alone. I have purchased the Penrite grease and will live with any leaking until absolutely necessary.
At some stage may look for another box to renovate at my leisure so will have a backup.
Regards
Brian
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Hi All and Happy New year
I currently have the front apron off to fix a cooling issue and thought I should try and fix the steering box oil leak.
So I ask for your guidance - Can I change the seal with the box in situ.
Looking at the box it seems that I could remove the drop arm and slip off the trunnion by undoing the bolts.
Is the seal pressed in place and also can the bush be changed by this method
Thank you for your advise in advance
Regards
Brian
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Hi All
Just an update. The inlet manifold has a crack along the base of the stud aperture. A second hand inlet manifold sourced locally and installed. The rear carb jet was slightly off centre so this sorted also. Once the weather improves a good run is on the cards. Thanks for everyones input
Brian
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Thanks Peter - I will check for flooding.
Ralph thank you for checking. With the weeping coming from around the stud area I suspect you may be right with perhaps a slight crack in the manifold. I have replaced the stud with a bolt and applied thread sealer to it to see if this is where the problem lies.
I see that Revington TR and Rimmers have second hand manifolds and have made enquiries as to condition.
I note that out Register had one last year so have made enquires there also.
Regards
Brian
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Hi All
I have a petrol leak which seems to be coming from the stud area on the back carb inlet manifold. It is hard to detect as the petrol is evaporating on the exhaust manifold. I notice that part of the inlet manifold may be missing - near the stud - where it rests on the ehaust manifold
It is a high port head and gaskets appear dry. I have taken the stud out and it is wet so I am assuming that the petrol is coming from this point.
Does the stud hole go right through the body of the inlet manifold causing petrol to seep through. It only occurs after engine is switched off
If I need a new manifold who are the best providers
Regards
Brian
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Hi Graham
I had a similar problem last month when I installed a new clutch. My grating sound occurred when I released the clutch. I have a TR4-6 gearbox in my TR3.
My mechanic friend found that the slave cylinder fork needed adjusting and also the master cylinder fork.
Others on the forum may have other solutions also
Brian
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Hi All
This topic is timely, as I took the TR3 to upholsters this morning. On the way home (only about 5 km) I noticed the ammeter needle at the far right. This has not gone back to 0 and appears stuck. I am baffled as to why this has happened. I have run an alternator for past 10 years .
Should I take the gauge apart and see if needle is stuck or is there something more I should be worried about
Regards
Brian
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Hi All
I know there has been some discussion around the poor fitting of some sumps.
Recently when I took out the plug to change the oil the thread on the sump was very brittle and I had to do a retap and fit a bigger plug.
I have spoken to a local alloy repairer who has many years in the business. Not having seen the sump he said be may be able to put a speedi sleeve in. He thinks that due to its age (original with car so 65 years old) I would probably be better off getting a new one. He thinks being that old it would probably have been made with a magnesium component and likely to be porous.
I'm no expert so would I better going new. TR Shop seem the best value but freight is high due to travel half way round the world. All up £370 or NZ$720.
Thoughts appreciated
Regards
Brian
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I found the glovebox to be rather flimsy so put a piece of thin metal under it and attached to the heater bracket. I recall the metal was from the lid of a fireworks container, thin but just enough for extra support.
Brian
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Thanks Bob. I do not have a rheostat just the panel switch. I understand that the lights will be much brighter. Will I need to fit a rheostat? I assume this would be an additional switch placed somewhere on the dash. If that is the case I could place it where the heater rheostat is - I don't have a heater.
Brian
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Hi All
I am about to change my dash lights to LED bulbs. I know that all 6 are in line but wondered if they can be separated i.e speedo on a separate wire, same with rev counter and the wires going into the switch or spliced into one wire.
Regards
Brian
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Thanks Ralph. My guards don't have any holes drilled so didn't want to just drill in the wrong place. I guess the mirrors will get knocked out of position where ever they are. Thanks again.
Brian
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Thanks. I have changed the centre mirror to a more modern configuration and is attached to the hardtop centre bracket on the windscreen. I don't have a hardtop so no problem there. I found a mirror bracket at the local vintage car club and used existing glass so it looks correct. It is also much better to see over the boot bag on trips.
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Hi. I am thinking of putting wing mirrors on the guards. Can anyone advise whereabouts they should be positioned. I have a mirror attached to Staunton but it vibrates too much and hard to see. Thanks.
Brian
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Sorry, meant to mention its a 1957 TR3 with girling brakes, disc on front. The cocoa tin cylinder as mentioned
Regards
Brian
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Ian you have PM
Brian
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Hi All and Happy New Year to everyone.
Could someone advise the level the brake fluid should be in the master cylinder. Brakes and clutch have been bled but fluid is coming out of the top (and has damaged the paint work- very annoying). A friend said that fluid should be about 1 to 1 1/2 inches from top to allow expansion. I can't find any level indicator on the cylinder. I have a booster also.
Your thoughts appreciated
Regards
Brian
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I have gone down a different route. I leave my soft top attached at the back and roll it up and secure it with a couple of straps around the hood and hood bows. Saves time getting it on when wet weather comes. Also doesn't crease the windows. I don't use a tonneau but easy enough to unclip at back to put one on. Works for me.
Brian
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Here is a photo of my car from 2014. Couldn't afford a front bumper at the time (still can't).
Have had a lot of comments from other TR members that it looks good and sets it apart from all the others.
Personal choice though.
Brian
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Hi all
This no doubt has been mentioned in previous posts but can't find the answer.
My TR3 is currently running HS5 carbs which from the tag are from a 1976 Triumph 2000. They have always run rich even though I have changed needles to TR3 ones (SM0
I have just rebuilt engine and increased from 83mm to 87mm pistons and liners.
No amount of adjustment seems to be working and continues to run rich
Do I need to change needle size again
Regards
Brian
A type overdrive plate
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Hi Everyone
My overdrive developed an oil leak and investigation revealed that it is coming from the plunger and o ring area. I have taken the plate off and there are 2 o rings behind the collar at the front of the plate. Another TR member advises that this plate is not correct as the o ring should sit in a cavity on the back of the plate. There is no cavity on my plate. He is sending me a spare plate he has.
Can anyone throw any light on what I have and how the o rings seal. The cavity is deep enough to take 2 o rings so how does it form a good seal. Do I have a part missing.
Regards
Brian