BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Posts posted by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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15 hours ago, iain said:
I have used Penrite 20/60 for quit some time now. Purchased in 20l drum. Performance is excellent, good oil pressure even in hot climates after hard days driving.
I’m going to try Motul 20/50 at the next oil change and see how that fares. ZDDP levels are good with this as well.Me too. I have sufficient Motul 20/50 to do an oil change and will be doing so very soon. If it lunches my engine I will report back and also give Motul an earful.
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On 3/30/2024 at 7:17 PM, john.r.davies said:
Surely there can be no argument that an extractor manifold MUST have equal length primaries. Thermal variation can only influence their length.
Anyway, "No doubt those designing F1 engines and the like may well have the computer modelling to test their designs but that wasn't available back in the day." They certainly do, and I give you, Cordon D., Dean C., Steciak J., Beyerlein S, "ONE-DIMENSIONAL ENGINE MODELING AND VALIDATION USING RICARDO WAVE"
"Ricardo WAVE" is just as suggested a system to model engines' internal function. Cordon et al derived this chart:
I've no details of the engine modelled (the paper is behind a pay wall) but note the deep trough at 6K, except with 40 inch (!!!) primaries. So clearly SOME effect!
And modern BMWs go the same 6-3-1 extent:
JOhn
Thank you for the lead to
An interesting article.
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Just now, harlequin said:
I was looking at one of these https://www.racetorations.co.uk/product/hidden-fuse-relay-box-tr2-3a/ to tidy up some of the electrics under the bonnet
George
My brother has fitted that kit to his TR2 and it is very tidy.
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3 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said:
Hi John,
You have a Personal Message.
Mick Richards
You beat me Mick. I was going to pm you.
They are original 202775 by the look. The water transfer holes were modified at a very late stage in the gasket press tool’s life. They ended up with a slot between the two water transfer holes at each end .
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Durite make relays with a fuse holder included for under a tenner. I use them in my headlamp relay circuit.
Problem I hit was that I now need to carry another spare part. viz. the blade type fuse.
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There are two bore sizes of master cylinder fitted on Sprite/Midget. The bore changes when disc brakes are fitted. That bore change would affect pedal pressure.
Have you mixed up the fluid type in the master cyl? Using regular in a system previously filled with silicon causes a heavy pedal and the cylinder seals to swell and stick.
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25 minutes ago, john.r.davies said:
The popularity of these 'antiglare' glasses is worrying. As I mentioned earlier in this debate, 'glare' is a symptom of the eye condition 'glaucoma', which is mainly related to age.
In a population whose average age is increasing, more people will suffer from glaucoma. But over and above that factor, the incidence of glaucoma is increasing. (Alan P Rotchford AP, Hughes J, AgarwalPK and Thatham A, Prevalence of treatment with glaucoma medication in Scotland, 2010–2017, British Journal of Opthalmology, 104(3), 381-5, 2020 )
Glaucoma is associated with blindness, is easily and painlessly detected and is readily treated. I urged before and do so again that anyone finding that headlights cause uncomfortable and disorientating glare should consult an optician before buying a set of fancy yellow glasses!
John
I went to Spec Savers.
They suggested the following after testing my genetically inherited possibility of glaucoma and telling me I had cataracts just starting which were not in need of intervention
Read their suggestions here of tinted lenses.
https://www.specsavers.co.uk/glasses/driving-glasses
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7 minutes ago, keith1948 said:
There has been a Government response to the online petition.
https://petition.parliament.uk/petitions/653793
Don't expect too much (or anything).
Meanwhile still using the yellow anti glare specs. I think they help. It is interesting that they show which cars have LED's and which don't from the colour of the headlights.
Keith
Yes. Using my of clip on anti glare specs and am pleasantly pleased by the softening of the light from oncoming vehicles. If used by day they give vehicles the look of a mouldy green edge.
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1 hour ago, Peter Cobbold said:
Michael, I also question the use of a flow bench for tuning exhaust manifold on the basis that the air flow is not pulsatile. Tuned exhausts rely upon those pulses 'co-operating' to improve scavenge. No flow bench can do that. The only way I know of designing exhaust manifolds (pre computers) is to run an engine on a dynamometer and measure torque for several different fabricated manifolds. That would have to be done to compare the various TR designs. Peter
Back when Terry Hurrell was introducing Triumph Tune product and developing the catalogue, he did do back to back rolling road testing of the product that was to go in the catalogue. Notably the GT original manifolds were compared to others that were on offer.
Exhaust manifolds and exhaust changes were always a challenge as too often the damn things did not fit in their original state and needed fettling before testing, then removing and shipping to the maker for jig changes. Mike the Pipe was a primary supplier and got things just right, then they were sent for copying by a volume maker with cnc bending facilities. (Falcon)
The testing found improvements of course and demonstrated the need for fuelling/ignition changes on the Cox & Buckles workshop TR6 donkey car. AKA ‘the racer’. The other cars used were Terry’s own Spitfire, TR7 & V8 conversion. Latterly of course MG items were developed.
One of the things found was how an aftermarket ?Peco? Perhaps, exhaust silencer performed less efficiently than a standard item. Ooops!Terry would spend a lot of time fitting and removing parts from his cars to get them in the format he wanted testing.
There was a lot of swapping of cylinder heads, fuel systems and manifolds which took weeks and cost many hours of labour, to arrive at what were described as ‘plus-packs’ This was true development of some products, not suck it and see.The actual test results & other figures from then I do not have, they were broadly described in the Triumph Tune catalogue. I think the test work was done at a rolling road near Luton.
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Perhaps Burlen in Salisbury.
or
Southern Carbs in Crawley
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5 hours ago, Nigel C said:
so, cheapest source this week?
Tanya Batteries. ?
https://www.tayna.co.uk/engine-oil/valvoline/20w50-vr1-5l/?msclkid=41b13ac6479e11e7c1745cc104e28432
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1 hour ago, dpb said:
Thanks Pete
I hadn't considered that. I haven't had a good swage for ages, if ever. I'll see what happens when eventually my car runs. Probably next year.
Dave.
You’ll speak in tongues if the hose comes off and dumps hot coolant everywhere.
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1 hour ago, john.r.davies said:
TriumphTune described the TT1200 as an "Extractor" manifold, but classified it as "Road" type. It collects the front three and back three cylinder primaries into two tail pipes, so cannot work in the same way as I described above. They also did a long primary "Competition" version, FS1230 (why not a TT designation?) while their TT1240 was a true 6-3-1 extractor.
JOhn
FS prefix meant it was from Falcon Stainless steel exhaust maker. TT prefix items came in mild steel only from another supplier. . The first few of the 6-3-1 sold by Triumph Tune I think were supplied by Gareth Thomas. They were copied by many. The rest is history.
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Bargain for the person rebuilding tired carbs.
I have same in my carb spares box and did the swap to test trials like you.
Just a point though….Part number on the box is AUC1170 which is for the 12 oz green spring. You must have decided they were the ones to get the right fuel flow across the rev range for your race engine.
Easy to test the spring rate by pressing on a weight scales, if the coloured paint dab is faded or missing. For half weight changes in spring pressure add a 2 oz washer under the spring.
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Happy Easter to you too Marco.
My first car was a side valve engined Morris Minor of 1948 vintage. Called series MM. That car had an engine of 1930’s derivation, it was 918cc producing 27.5 hp (20.5 kW) and 39 lb⋅ft (53 N⋅m) of torque.
Cooling was by thermo syphon and fan. The water pump was only added if a heater was fitted. The car would happily run at 80 kph without overheating on a highway. If you kept up a speed of over 80 kph it would soon overheat I did that once and had to renew the head gasket.Progression for that car was the introduction of the ohv ‘A’ series engine of 803 cc that was more powerful and thirsty. This engine was always pump assisted cooling.
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3 hours ago, PodOne said:
Mine looked similar but it was greatly improved with the use of polish and buffing wheel attached to my bench grinder. Now has just a few deeper marks but better than trying to fit a repro.
Andy
To maintain a good finish has anyone thought about powder coating the capping in a colour like anodised aluminium, or even body colour (Matt black on a modern)
I'll get my anorak.
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51 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said:
+1 for the stub stacks, not as impressive looking as 3" ram pipes but about 50% more effective. Mick Richards
The ram pipes look even better if poking through the bonnet.
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Consider swaging a flare on the plain end of your new bulkhead fittings to give a better chance of the hose sealing. All this waffle about coating the adaptor with gasket sealant is a sticking plaster for pipes that are too small for the hoses due to metrication.
From another post…..
The fitting I had to swage was stainless. The clamp part of the tool I have fitted snuggly and then I formed a simple flare to the tube to increase its final diameter.
Be sure to remove any nicks or burrs from the tube end that could cut the hose.
I have just done a dummy test on my old mild steel bulkhead fitting to flare the tube ends in the same way as I did to the stainless one I have recently fitted.
i used the brake pipe tool clamp to hold the 1/2” pipe then swaged the pipe end with a conical punch ( the one I use for push rod tubes on wet liner egines)
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18 hours ago, harrytr5 said:
I had this problem and despite having it calibrated etc.. after a rebuild it still flickered. I changed the speedo drive and cable but still the same. Spoke to overdrive services and they suggested it could be the drive worm gear for the speedo angle drive. There is a bolt just up from the angle drive which locates the worm drive. I changed it for a new one and bingo it worked in my case so now a happy bunny. Not saying it could be the same as yours but something to look out for.
Good luck.
P.S. I cleaned the inner cable and coated it with graphite lock powder.
Interesting. That sounds as if the spigot end of the worm gear bearing locator screw was in the wrong place or too long and distorting the angle of the worm driven gear. My first approach would have been to thoroughly clean and re graphite the inner drive cable and the cable outer casing. I also found adding a fibre washer between the worm gear drive connection and the angle drive/speedo cable (inside the attaching nut) moved the whole cable assy away by a small amount so the inner driven wire did not press on anything, it was floating and driven only.
Cable routing is important too.
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Why not....go fuel injected?
Or better still ask the people who built the splendidly finished car you have what they would suggest, if you are seeking more 'umph.
Looking at the photos of your car it is finished to a high standard with many trick features, that suggests the builders knew what they were up to.
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7 hours ago, JohnC said:
I have compared a TT1200 6-2 (not 6-2-1; it went into a twin pipe system with a balance pipe further back) with a standard cast iron manifold. Same dyno, no other changes, and the engine was bog standard CP. The cast iron manifold generated ~10-15 lb.ft more torque until 4000RPM, and at 4500RPM both were about equal. The 6-2 then generated about 5 lb.ft more until 5500RPM, where I stopped. The 6-2 manifold max power was ~5bhp more than the OE cast iron, but not until over 5000RPM.
My conclusion (borne out by the opinion of others better qualified) is that the TT1200 is much better suited to a race car being driven high in the rev range, than to a daily driver. As Neil says, the Triumph engineers did get it right. The OE cast iron manifold does the job well.
I daresay that if the engine had been improved (balancing in particular, but head work as well) the TT1200 may have given better results. FWIW since then (2007) I have had the engine balanced, the head worked on and the CR raised a bit. But I have thrown out the TT1200 so we'll never know!
Cheers,
JohnGood info John.
Glad to read you added a balance connection when the TT1200 was fitted. The original cast iron manifold having of course a balance connection/casting hole, internally just before the down pipe flange.
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7 hours ago, Kenrow said:
I talked to the person who is making the covers. The project is on hold while he figures out a suitable way to mask off the cap to apply the black paint for production.
He is planning on reproducing the center steering wheel center pad. Should be out later this year. The maker of these product has done the TR250 bumble bee hoses and the seat springs in the past of high quality. No financial interest on my part, just passing the word along to give him a push. PM me if you want to be on his list. FWIW he is in the USA.
Has the man looked at the MGB Rostyle Wheel repaint/masking kits?
A vacuum formed mask with cut outs as required may be a solution. No doubt the originals were masked with a more substantial thing than a bit of plastic.
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15 hours ago, Richardtr3a said:
Thanks for the help and advice. This morning I had a specialist wiring man who spent the morning dealing with the problems and left it 100 %. It is very relaxing to have an honest expert working on the car.
Richard & B
Good outcome Richard.
New product for the EV market
in General TR Technical
Posted
As an aside…that double float chamber is a desirable thing for the big supercharger boys ( and girls)