BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Posts posted by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Thread drift.
Let us not forget there is a later fitment rear view mirror in the sidescreen cars(609317) that has a plastic edging not the original early type (601999) with the bare edged glass.
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/mirror-rear-view-late-609317.html?assoc=113498The later mirror is offset mounted on the back. If you want it lower or taller, just rotate the mirror bit on its mount by 180 degrees. There is noise about the stem length but rotating the head on the stem improves.
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Fixed mine with JB Weld Water Weld epoxy putty. Did it with the radiator in the car Just dropped the water level cleaned the area mixed up the stuff and spread it on. Not pretty but functional.
I now carry a stick in the car boot spares ‘just in case’
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Be careful.
Lucas 743176 = BMC 17H5431 is the correct kit with studs to mount a TR3-5 wiper motor. Plus classic Mini and Morris Minor. and many more. Rimmers and MGOC spares offer the rubber only as 17H5431X I do not know if that is a kit of 3 or just a single.There is another kit that uses 4. shorter studs and thinner rubber bushes that holds a Lucas 6W motor in place. This kit is not correct for a TR. The studs screw into the side of the motor not the gearbox. This motor was used on Ford GT40, RR Shadow, Aston DB, Land Crab and Triumph Barb models 2000 mk1. They pop up good and cheap but are not suitable for TR.
https://www.gt40s.com/threads/lucas-6w-wiper-motor.54481/
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What colour is the coolant now? It changes colour if combustion gasses are present. Red to yellow, reverts back once combustion gasses are gone.
Was ALL the previous coolant, radiator and block, purged from the engine? Evans Coolant Co sell a clean and purge liquid they say must be used before filling with their product.
If you read their spec. they say do not mix with anything. Maybe it causes the foaming.
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Well done. The good poking with a thin screw driver probably made it realise it needed to let go.
Hope you covered the starter motor with a plastic bag to keep any water out of the workings and electrics.
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On 3/31/2024 at 2:53 PM, keith1948 said:
There has been a Government response to the online petition.
https://petition.parliament.uk/petitions/653793
Don't expect too much (or anything).
Meanwhile still using the yellow anti glare specs. I think they help. It is interesting that they show which cars have LED's and which don't from the colour of the headlights.
Keith
Our signing of the petition has had some effect after all - a review into the brightness, rather than the aim (the latter has been dealt with in forthcoming legislation) of LED headlamps has been launched by the government:
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11 hours ago, JohnC said:
May seem like a stupid question, but please bear with me. How do modern light truck/van tyres compare with the tyres our cars were fitted with in the '70s? Here in Oz the only locally-available 165/80R15 tyres are made for vans, and all the advertising info indicates that longevity is the primary consideration. Now I realise that the horrifically expensive 165s I can get from overseas will be vastly superior to van tyres, but how do van modern tyres compare to 1970's tyre technology?
I expect I'll go for the195/65 option in the end. I had hoped to try a set of Radar 185/70 but our importer won't bring them in.
Does anyone have any experience they can share?
Thanks,
JohnWhere is Australia and Is it near you?
There is a business online in Australia that offer 165/80/15 Hankook regular car radials at AU$121 each. if you buy 4.
https://www.tyresales.com.au/search?search=size&width=165&aspect=80&rim=15
reviews
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Personally, I would not waste my time using blue Hylomar on a copper washer that is the wrong size being used in the wrong location.
Why have you rejected using the correct fibre washers, fitted without goop, that Burlen can supply? Part Number AUC2141 available as single washers for under 50p each from most classic car spare sellers, Austin, Morris, Healey, TR, that used the SU carb or fuel pump. https://www.morrisminorspares.com/fuel-system-c74/fuel-carburettor-c75/washer-banjo-bolt-auc2141-p830754
What spanner are you using to tighten the banjo bolt hexagon heads? I always used a ring spanner that is the correct size and worked a treat.
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Use a Dremmel and cutting disc the widen the slot sufficient to get the tag out in the slot widening needs to be no longer than a tag and in a place it does not shew or where you will want to place a tag to fit the beading. Ie Not at the ends of the bead.
I painted my replacement tags with POR paint to slow down the rusting problem. At one time there were stainless tags available. I could not find them when I renewed mine.
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11 minutes ago, stuart said:
When you say clutch "Nearly" all the way up what happens with it all the way up?
Stuart.
Yes, good point by Stuart.
Clive, start the car engage a gear leave tge hand brake /parking brake on and take your foot completely off the clutch pedal. Do not rev the engine at all. The car engine should stall.
Now do the same with the brake off ensuring the car will not hit anything as you release the clutch completely and move your left foot to rest on the dip switch. Car should proceed in the direction of the forward or reverse gear that is engaged. ie first or reverse. Be sure you are actually in First and not third.
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1 minute ago, Smithfire67 said:
The only related thing I have done is top up the clutch/brake fluid by about an inch.
That rules out improvements by owner.
is it you that is operating the clutch? I had an issue where a driver of an automatic pulled the gearstick until resistance was felt and released the brake, the clutch was not being used at all, hence not in gear.
Back to the suggestion Bob made. Check there is free play on the clutch slave push rod in accordance with the service instructions.
Is the overdrive de selected as in OFF.
Are you trying to go forward or reverse? Try forward only, the overdrive may be sticking.
Have tried rolling the car forward and backwards by a yard in each direction?
Does the car move at all when the clutch is released? If not, push it forward or backward by a foot so a different tooth in the axle crown wheel is engaged with the pinion.. If it now drives but goes thump/clonk the axle needs looking inside.
When it moves are there any abnormal noises?
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1 hour ago, Smithfire67 said:
Morning
My 59 TR3A has seen fit to develop a clutch problem.
Trying to pull away there is virtually no forward momentum even at 2k rpm and the clutch pedal almost completely up.
Having initially thought it was the slave cylinder, I got my partner to sit in the car and depress the clutch pedal whist I observed the movement from the slave.....looked pretty healthy to me, moving the rod backwards about 2 and a half inches.
Does this sound like complete clutch failure/bell housing off territory?
Many thanks
Clive
What have you been fixing since the car worked perfectly?
I’d start by looking at what you may have touched or adjusted.
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6 hours ago, Lebro said:
They are certainly posher than the alloy ones I made about 30 years ago - out of ¼" plate bent in three places to fit the vice jaws.
Bob
That is precisely what they have replaced. The ones I made in my metalwork class at school were the model for the folded ones I had and these replace.
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I’d say all TR2/3/3A/3B are the same shape as regards to fitting the floor and bulkhead.
The only real difference is probably the provision of an oil filler hole in the front upper RH side ( pre 1960 3A) and the size of the casing at the rh front lower to clear the starter bendix bump on the gearbox. (Post 1959 3A)
Be aware that the gearbox lump that covers the starter motor drive may touch the steel gearbox cover. Simple whacking with a ball pein end of a hammer will stretch the steel cover and or scurf the edge of the gear box case lump that touches. -
My friend asked me if I knew of any good quality aluminium soft jaws for vices. He particularly wanted a pair for his ‘Nippy’ vice. The use of a recessed 1/8” thick by 3/8” diameter magnet is a positive win for simple retention, however swarf attaching itself I may start to hate.
The V grooves are a challenge to do I thought until I found a V shaped HSS wood router bit. Lots of suds, slow 0.020” deep cuts and spindle speed of 2500rpm. I had to hold the bit in a regular drill bit chuck as I do not have a 1/4” ER32 collet. On my list now.
I ended up buying enough material from the always helpful M-Machine in Darlington and making 3 sets.
http://www.m-machine-metals.co.uk/index.htmlThe blue sky dream is doing a set in copper but I squeak when I consider £20 ‘s worth of copper will end up on the floor in chips.
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2 hours ago, 8iggles said:
Genuine Lucas service part for early TRs. Note 120 degree sweep. Complete with little envelope containing shims and clip. TR3 written on the box?
£10 plus postage
John Biggin
Yes please. PM Sent
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I have no angle drive.
I do have one fitted between the end of the cable case and the gearbox output. It spaces the inner drive wire out of the square drive hole and reduces the jiggling speedo needle.
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PM sent Bob.
Peter W
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As an aside…that double float chamber is a desirable thing for the big supercharger boys ( and girls)
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15 hours ago, iain said:
I have used Penrite 20/60 for quit some time now. Purchased in 20l drum. Performance is excellent, good oil pressure even in hot climates after hard days driving.
I’m going to try Motul 20/50 at the next oil change and see how that fares. ZDDP levels are good with this as well.Me too. I have sufficient Motul 20/50 to do an oil change and will be doing so very soon. If it lunches my engine I will report back and also give Motul an earful.
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On 3/30/2024 at 7:17 PM, john.r.davies said:
Surely there can be no argument that an extractor manifold MUST have equal length primaries. Thermal variation can only influence their length.
Anyway, "No doubt those designing F1 engines and the like may well have the computer modelling to test their designs but that wasn't available back in the day." They certainly do, and I give you, Cordon D., Dean C., Steciak J., Beyerlein S, "ONE-DIMENSIONAL ENGINE MODELING AND VALIDATION USING RICARDO WAVE"
"Ricardo WAVE" is just as suggested a system to model engines' internal function. Cordon et al derived this chart:
I've no details of the engine modelled (the paper is behind a pay wall) but note the deep trough at 6K, except with 40 inch (!!!) primaries. So clearly SOME effect!
And modern BMWs go the same 6-3-1 extent:
JOhn
Thank you for the lead to
An interesting article.
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Just now, harlequin said:
I was looking at one of these https://www.racetorations.co.uk/product/hidden-fuse-relay-box-tr2-3a/ to tidy up some of the electrics under the bonnet
George
My brother has fitted that kit to his TR2 and it is very tidy.
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3 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said:
Hi John,
You have a Personal Message.
Mick Richards
You beat me Mick. I was going to pm you.
They are original 202775 by the look. The water transfer holes were modified at a very late stage in the gasket press tool’s life. They ended up with a slot between the two water transfer holes at each end .
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Durite make relays with a fuse holder included for under a tenner. I use them in my headlamp relay circuit.
Problem I hit was that I now need to carry another spare part. viz. the blade type fuse.
TR6 Steering Rack Finish
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Certainly all the original Triumph Spares steering racks I have sold were painted black. Cannot answer for what was on the car from new.