BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Posts posted by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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And my two penny worth...
30 years ago when at C&B I was continually asked for a suitable oil for overdrive gearboxes, so put the men from Castrol to work and they came up with a product called ST90 that is a 90 weight gear oil, non EP. The Castrol rep could not understand why a car spares outlet did not sell volumes of EP oil (good profit in that not GTX) so was happy to get the spec sorted through his company technical team.
link http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9014108&contentId=7027100
I guess it is still available
Cheers
Peter W
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There are no differences in the 'square' size of genuine TR gearbox/overdrive/instruments. (Wedge cars not included in this statememt) All use the same size square both ends. NB The 69" speedo cable is common TR2-6 although changing from LHD o/d TR2/3 to RHD TR4-6 as life went on
T2000/2.5 certainly used a smaller square.
If you have an issue at your angle drive, gearbox, overdrive or instrument it will because it is a donor part from a non TR source.
Cheers
Peter W
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Hi Peter,
As it says in the title, TR3a.
I need either a recoverable one or dimensions to make one.
Car is November 59 TR3A so ~I presume the curved type that Brian indicates.
It is a male thing... not reading the title
Sorry
Peter W
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I need some information dimensions to make the pywood or hardboard backing for the rear trim panel (cockpit side of fuel tank)
I have nothing to copy only the trim material with flutes sewn in. Unsure where the fold goes.
Any help appreciated.
If the trim mill board for a TR2 was the same shape I have that and so could copy, confirmation?
Thanks
Rod
What car do you want this cockpit tank board for?
TR2 is different to TR3A as the original TR2 tank is bigger/ different top front shape to TR3A. Space was given for the occasional rear seat back rest on the later cars by reshaping the top front of the tank. The TR2 item will fit the later cars, but the later panel (TR3/3A) will rub/not fit a TR2 with original tank.
Cheers
Peter W
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Roger, I have a bit of a puzzle going on...
My memory tells me the pinion should have 10 teeth and you mention that you have a pinion with 11.
I went through my father's stock of Lucas stater spares and specs today. His business was electrical unit overhaul. He has both 10 and 11 tooth pinions with full length teeth on starters. He tells me they are Land Rover. The cut away pinion with 10 teeth is TR4/4A. Maybe you have the wrong starter pinion.
Perhaps another TR owner with a genuine TR4/4A starter could count the teeth and respond here, before you search for the wrong pinion!
Cheers
Peter W
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It comes from a Land Rover but you have to machine half the length of the teeth down to the root - Use you old pinion as a sample - Slow rpm using tipped tool is the method.
If you get stuck pm me I think I have a NOS one in the garage.
Peter W
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Patrick,
You can fit the later TR4-6 caliper with the TR3 disc, caliper mounting brackets, caliper mounting bolts and the hydraulic hose. The pads will not sweep the inner diameter of the disc though. Not a major worry.
The hydraulic hose is the same so long as you use the 16p or pb type caliper that has Imperial threads. The late TR6 used a (M16 type) that has METRIC threads for the hose and bigger diameter mounting bolt shanks.
Cheers
Peter W
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Sorry to hear of your nightmare - believe me we have all some similar story. - I had a terrible oil leak from what I thought was the newly fitted rubber lip crank rear oil seal. Got psyched-up to remove the engine and found it was a shrunken rocker cover cork gasket and the fuel pump inner seal causing the dribble.
What state is the cylinder head rear core plug in, was it renewed - could it be the culprit? - On a TR2/3 it is a head off job to renew and is highly recommended if not been done. Check with mirror, torch and talcum powder.
Before removal check
Borrow a torque wrench to check against your one. 100 -110 Foot Lbs is a heck of a torque but is correct and required.
Water outlet for heater not tight/sealing properly?
Core plug in rear of head not sealing/ rusted through.
Anything else you can think of externally.
After that It is a case of methodically checking everything before refitting. But I guess you have been through this.
Be observant as you take it to bits, you may spot the issue.
Snagged or damaged head gasket,
Muck on the gasket.
Washer left on a head stud (for safe keeping - I've seen it!)
Head for flatness
Head for cracks - Pressure test
Liner protrusion - 3 to 5 thou above block - If wrong this will cause water to go into the cylinders rather than leak out the gasket.
Block for cracks around stud holes - Will cause water to go up side of stud hole in head - Factory recommended sealing the head nut/washer with lead linger - got a roll if you need some.
Block top flatness especially around stud holes. Studs out and countersink if required. Could be a source of water leak from gasket edge.
Correct new gasket.
Gasket on the right way up.
Gradual and Correct torque tightening sequence. Yes it is worth borrowing a torque wrench to check against your one - 100-110 Foot Lbs is a heck of a torque but is required.
Consider the use of WellSeal non setting jointing compound.
Prefered wisdom is do not use, as the next time you need to take the head off, it is glued in place. Turning the engine to lift the head/break the seal may well unseat the liners from the block making a head gasket job a lot more work
Cheers
Peter W
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OK - Hands up who knowingly takes their TR out in the rain?
I like the thinking behind all this rain channel drainage but suspect most owners have restored their cars with extensive corrosion protection that was never on the car originally. Improved drainage from the rear of the front wing fixing channel is a definite win.
I just made a bigger hole in the wing bottom, ensured the gutter above the speaker hole was intact and gooped everything with Unipart body cavity wax. The bulkhead sealer plates I spent time getting to fit then had powder coated. They too are in place on a bed of cavity wax secured with greased stainless steel screws and washers. The edges of the rubber seals were sealed with flexible body seal from a cartridge. My speaker hole has a square TR7/8 footwell vent flap fitted to a round aluminium plate screwed over it. - Looks fun but has yet to prove its worth.
Cheers
Peter W
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My NOS apron has the 'duck bill' and no piercings for letters.
Cheers
Peter W
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Hi Everyone,
Here's a teaser for you,
Why oh why when I start the TR2 is there a build up of pressure in the cooling system immediately which lifts the pressure cap relief valve enough to spew about a 1/2 pint of radiator fluid all over the floor via the overflow pipe? Within 5 miles there is no fluid left to be seen in the header tank, if I carry on driving she does not boil but runs "hot" especially in the summer. Yes this has been going on for a while!
There is a new radiator fitted, all new hoses and an uprated water pump. The bellows style thermostat has been replaced by a replica bellows thermostat from Moss and I have fitted the "correct" 4lb pressure cap. There are no leaks either from the cooling system or through the head gasket. The block is totally clear of sludge of any kind.
My thoughts are: Is the thermostat the problem, is the original heater the problem,( although there is a good flow of fluid through it), is the pump working backwards (unlikely I know ) i its something I haven't thought of and it's glaring me in the face
I have spent a fortune on 4Life radiator fluid and reverted to H2O in the desperate hope that TR engines don't like it. Well mine doesn't like water either
HELP PLEASE
Nik
My brother had precisely these symptoms with his TR3A.
Miracle car - with everything new even the water, every time he drove it the water spewed out. Car ran hot but not over-boiling.
We fixed it eventually with a new Head gasket, after a lot of head scratching and other repairs.
His car has an 'uprated' water pump too.
Stuart is spot on about pump vane tip clearance and cavitation problems. You are looking for probably no more than 0.020" vane tip clearance. Adjusting it is a challenge if you need to reduce it. Best you can do is dispense with the gasket gaining 0.005" to 0.010" ish.
Peter W
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Hi Sage ones, I have an old Lucas Screenjet washer system the one with the glass jar and bakelite pump motor. The motor has three connections, one is positive the other negative and the middle one is clearly an earth. The old wiring tails are still on it and they are light green and black to the positive, light green to negative and black for the earth. Forgive my slowness but why three? Why a seperate earth? I notice the replica ones have only two connections.
This is along shot...
Some early E Type s used this item, so I would imagine sight of the relevant Jaguar wiring diagram might help.
Sorry I do not have any Jag wiring diags but I'd guess the world out there has pdf'd one!!!!
Cheers
Peter W
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Mike the longer screws go in the bottom holes on the stanchions to engage into the angle joiner brackets. This is important as using the longer ones in the middle or top holes will result in breaking the screen. The springs on the Dzus fasteners are so that when you undo them they spring out far enough to allow the screen to be slid off the retaining plates. I think Moss UK only supply them as a unit with the fastener and washer. Unfortunately the repros Dzus dont have the legend "Dzus" and "Undo" with an arrow like the originals
Stuart.
Stuart,
I left C&B / Moss in the early 1990's and their supplier then for the Dzus fasteners was Dzus themselves. The minimum order quantity for the items was horrendous - years of stock at a time! It was not common to receive the fasteners with the DZUS legend stamped into them at that time. I recall scraping through stock boxes full of the fasteners for purists, to try to find the very type you describe.
Cheers
Peter W
PS - For those on the North American continent try http://www.lockhartp...ome.php?cat=495 for the retaining washers. Or a google search using dzus fasteners, aircraft, race cars
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Folding the soft top and header rail then stowing in the boot might be a challenge.
The later header rails have lots of pointy bits just waiting to ruin your canopy.
Cheers
Peter W
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What head gasket did you use? Orig copper composite or steel shim type.
The steel shim is worth a couple of cc reduction in compression volume as it is half the thickness or copper/asbetsos. ie (0.070" to 0.020") 1.6 mm down to 0.5 mm You can lose about 2 cc per chamber volume.
I did not get over excited when shaving the head as I did not fancy arsing about with the liner top edge and special gaskets. I made sure not to remove/thin too much the valve shroud that seals against the liner top. Left it approx 0.020 - 0.030" thick.
I have CR of about 10 - 1 with TR 4A head and 87mm pistons. Runs well but goes very lean at high revs, even with RH needles.
Cheers
Peter W
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And again....
Silver solder a Triumph/Moss pt no - TL11 olive on the plain bit of tubing.
Cheers
Peter W
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When we banger raced A 60's in the old days we would hold all 4 straps to the body with one big 5/8 diameter bolt and two 4" square 1/4" thick plates.
Probably not RAC/FIA approved tho...
Do you want to remove the seat belts for road use/MOT getting? - In which case dedicated eye-bolts in reinforced holes maybe your best solution.
Cheers
Peter W
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Hello Mark,
I think you mean the MJ1.1/4N in stead of mji 1/4nrj, Timken or SKF can deliver them, only a little different, they are more closed on de side but I use them over 15 year with no problem.
You need two of them!
Succes,
Rien
Probably also known as
Hoffman/Steyer - RMS10N
or Triumph 58391
or Moss 058391
Cheers
Peter W
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Don manufacture radiator covers to order, see link and look at the Services tab . . .
Probably a lot cheaper if they ran off a small batch, maybe one or another TR specialist might be interested ?
Cheers,
Alec
My local supplier Lidl do it on the roll
Aluminium Baking Foil......
Peter W
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Or Ctrl+A
Or for Mac users
'Apple' + A
Peter W
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Only issue with this is the lack of a swage for the hose end and potential for subsequent of seal failure.
Solution is to silver solder a TL11 olive on the heater hose end.
Cheers
Peter W
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The 3 studs in the top of the bell housing on a TR4/4A are longer than TR2/3 because the flange is thicker on the 4 sychro gearbox.
I use one stud in the centre at the top that is at least an inch too long. This allows me to 'hang' the gearbox on it as I align/aim the clutch spline. You can see if the stud is in the hole whereas you cannot see the clutch spline.
Cheers
Peter W
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Started my 3A at the weekend and it needed to be primed from the pump then FULL choke rather tan the usual 1/2 - 3/4 pull out of the knob. It had to be left 'hunting' for 60 odd seconds when started before it would fast tickover with the choke pushed back in to 1/4 position. I put it down to the cold.
Have you checked your choke levers on the carbs are fully down when the choke knob is pulled out? Try to move the choke levers on the carbs by hand as the resistance you feel may be the tickover advance cams resisting further movement.
Cheers
Peter W
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Speaking to another local this morning who knows Vanguards.
1.75" HD6 SU's selected for the Sportsman ran at 30 degrees, whereas TR's ran H6 SU's at 20 degrees.
Learned something new too........TR's (and derivatives) were the only cars to run H6 carbies with 20 degree angle bowls.
Viv.
I'll confirm that.
Brother Keith has a 30 degree angled inlet manifold with twin HD6 carbs fitted that came on his TR2. It worked OK.
They all still reside somewhere in the lock up......
Cheers
Peter W
speedocable difference in thickness?
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Hi Edwin,
Yes I had missed out on that option. I would have expected any parts seller claiming to be a specialist to be able to get the speedo cable correct.
It must be a rubbish world for parts buyers if the specialists can not get that simple item right.
In years bygone I used to have cables made by Speedy Cables - just give them a sample and they will copy it.
Link http://www.speedycables.com/page64.html
Sorry this is in UK, if you need help PM me.
Cheers
Peter W