BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Posts posted by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Do not forget to check the timing gear alignment once you have your thrust washers in place. - You may need to shim, the crank timing gear.
I would put the thicker thrust washer towards the rear of the engine as a start off.
Cheers
Peter W
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Are you sure the electrical integrity of the armature and field coils is good before you waste time attempting further repairs?
I agree, usually a thorough clean, new bearings, new brushes and a commutator skim on the lathe does a good enough job - plus of course a coat of paint! If it has overheated the solder on the armature field coils where they join the commutator may be defective. - Enjoy cleaning and re-soldering that one.....
On a visit to the Lucas overhaul factory many years ago I watched this end plate blind bush removal process...
A large course threaded tap fitted to a reversing tapping attachment in a drill press was inserted into the bush, and out came the bush.
So - Couple of ways to pull a bush from a blind hole.
Thread the bush and try to pull out the bush on a bolt, Make up a threaded slide hammer with a long bolt and a big socket on it
or screw the bolt right in and see if it will 'jack' the bush out.
or devise a puller plate the bolt will work against - Once a bit of bush is shewing you have something to grip.
Avoid chiselling as this will usually damage the bore of the end plate.
2/ Get a length of round bar the correct size to fit tightly in the bush. Gob some thick oil or grease in the bush, insert a round piece of bar, Support the end plate, give the bar a tap to try and hydraulic the bush out - This works well on stuck crank spigot bushes.
3/ If the bush is not pushed fully in leaving a recess at the bottom of the hole there is tool known as a blind bearing puller that could be used - It is a collet type tool that has a flanged end that expands into the recess at the bottom of the bush bore. (Looks a bit like one side of a cotton reel made of metal on a stick ) Once expanded, the slide hammer on the tool is used to pull the bush out.
Before you renew your bush leave it soaking in warm oil overnight - Gets the oil into the pores of the sintered bearing material.
The front end plate has a roller ball bearing held by a retainer attached with three rivets.
Carb gaskets - You need the original SU gasket pack pt no AUE2 - has all you need to reseal your carbs.
Cheers
Peter W
PS alternatively throw the dymano in the back of the garage and fit a Nippon Denso alternator from a Kubota garden tractor. - needs a bit of wiring and a spacer bush to mount. The Orig wide belt pulley will need machining to get clearance on the unit, but fits OK otherwise.
Gives you up to 45 amps instead of max 21 amps from the dynamo and gets rid of the other weak link - the control box. Most people say the standard 30-0-30 ammeter works fine with it.
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The metal can got replaced by a plastic one - can not say when, but I only ever saw 114530 as a plastic item from the factory or Girling from 1980 on. I still have NOS of both items. The plastic one came as a kit with a clamp and rubber hose for the side outlet. - It also tends not to leak like the metal one.
The Girling parts book G400 I believe has a sketch of the metal reservoir - I'll check next time I am in the office.
The item went plastic, I guess, as the BeNeLux countries demanded the ability to see the content of the reservoir during the 60's and so the sense prevailed. Oddly enough Tri 200/2.5 right up to end, used a small metal can to supply the clutch system, but the brake was a clear plastic thing like TR5/6
Cheers
Peter W
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The double chamfer nut is required on TR wire wheel hub adaptors as the outer chamfer provides clearance for the nut edge to the inside face of the wire wheel splined centre hub.
Cheers
Peter W
PS Just a quickie - The GPO specified double chamfered wheel nuts on their vehicles to avoid fitter error.
PPS I had to machine up some steel wheel nuts to use with my rear hub extractor as the standard steel wheel nut did not have enough available thread to grip the short studs of wire wheel axle hubs. - Take a look in the steel wheel nut, the first few threads are removed to allow easier fitting/alignment.
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And TR4, Herald etc etc
more grip and comfort than any aftermarket one...
Probably on a Dove too!
Cheers
Peter W
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If anyone has one on the shelf, i am interested.
Dear Lionel,
Yes, Moss in London under their pt no 22B19.
Do not forget the lock nut to go with it pt no 506157, which I think they supply as a stainless steel item for polishing yourself.
Cheers
Peter W
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Definitely got a NOS front one in the spares box somewhere in the garage.
Please PM me and I will check when I get home in July.
To fit the rear one you need a high port head and the back RH head nut removed and the longer stud fitted. May have one of them too.
Cheers
Peter W
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If your car is a 3A it did not have floor carpets - just rubber mats.
I guess the Sat Nav is not orig either.
Yes get goggles at least or you get peppered painfully with rain on your face and in the eyes.
Enjoy the experience.
Cheers
Peter W
PS You can get the sceen in the boot if you take the stanchions off......
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Hi all,
further to my earlier post, (long door fan) Has anyone seen what fan TS2 has on it? If that has an aluminium bladed one with rivets in then mine is not original.
To save you reading my first post; I have an all steel 4 blade cooling fan which came in a box with my early long door TR2. It looks the same shape but it's a one piece item.
Hope thats not too confusing. cheers ken
For my money TR2-3 cooling fans were steel hub spider with 4 aluminium rounded ended blades rivetted in place. The square ended aluminium 4 blade type came in with the Micho cars. 4A finally got a plastic fan according to the parts book.
The 6 blade item was 'Tropical Spec' offered for Micho cars and was also offered on Barb (2000 MkI) and GT6.
So, your all steel item is not likely to be OE. Sling it in the back of the garage and fit an electric fan, shed loads more effective.
Cheers
Peter W
Cheers
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Andrew,
They were originally made by S J Clark, now gone I guess.
http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/S._J._Clark_%28Cables%29
Cheers
Peter W
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Andrew,
Have you told Moss their cables are no good?
In days of old these cables were constructed exactly as you describe with brass ferrules and adjusters and a teflon liner. I still have a couple of odd ones around somewhere.
Made cheap to meet the market demands these days I suspect.
Cheers
Peter W
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Sounds like a combination of timing and lack of vacuum advance.
Good people should be able to rectify this sort of problem in 1-2 hours. As you live in London SW6, Enginuity (in Acton) must be within easy reach. The NLG mob visited Enginuity for rolling road tests a few years ago and all of us were impressed with the knowledge of the people and the facilities, although I have no experience of their work other than that.
Ian Cornish
I'll second that.
I have known Enginuity since they started business and have always found them helpful and capable.
Cheers
Peter W
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K&N do this Apollo filter and hose kit, seems to work well.
http://www.tr-regist...&attach_id=7868
john
I bought one of these once and it was great quality at a reasonable price. If you search you may find other colours.
Cheers
Peter W
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Peter,
My 6 has the prestige under-slung linkage and I have no problems fitting throttle cables (even repros) - I'm currently using a NOS TR5/6 one from TD Fitchett - ask for the yellow ones, see: http://www.mylocalse...Car_Spares.html
Cheers
Andrew
I thought TR5/6 PI throttle cable casings were green. The only yellow ones I ever remember seeing were in Sprites and Midgets.
On the problem of the throttle cable length - Do the suppliers of the linkage also supply a cable? If so, order one and ask them why it does not fit their kit. Could be a simple assembly issue or a weird arrangement in the linkage kit.
Cheers
Peter W
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I think pre '58 used 3 character then 3 numbers format .
So, ATR 2 would be good date wise.
Cheers
Peter W
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I use a long extension and socket from under the car to get it off and to retighten.
Do not forget to dig the old 'O' ring out the filter head. I use the canister without the bolt in to seat the new 'O' ring in the filter head.
I also pre oil the filter in the canister to reduce the 'dry cranking' time, when priming the system after the oil change with the spark plugs removed. Once oil pressure shews , back in with the plugs, start up, and immediately check for leaks!
Cheers
Peter W
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Yes. For each side, you will need: trunnion, pivot bolt, vertical link, a pair of upper wishbone arms (they are NOT identical!), and ball joint, plus a few minor bits and pieces.
I suggest you have a look at the relevant pages in the Workshop Manual for TR4 and for TR4A (or the Moss catalogue).
Not rocket science! Just make sure you fit each pair of upper wishbone arms the correct way about so as to move the ball joint towards the rear of the car!
Ian Cornish
Plus 2 pairs of lower wishbones unless you can bore the trunion bush holes.
I am not sure about what springs would be needed or shocks.
Cheers
Peter W
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Interesting - just done a garage stock check!
I have a NOS LHD column bought from Pete Buckles in the '70 s and it has yellow paint stripe. (at £6.50 - it was a cheap way to get some internal strg box spares) Worm and casing being the unique parts only to hand of steering.
I also have 2 used RHD columns both with a yellow paint stripe on the lever.
Perhaps yellow denoted TR (?)
As an aside on new spares - TR4A-6 Strg racks used to have a yellow 'cap' on the column spline, Spitfire & GT6 had a red cap. Saloon cars I think had a white cap. GT6 also had a long hex thing screwed in the grease nipple hole that located in a counterbore in the inner rack to centralise it (I still have one somewhere) Blue caps were used too but I can not remember what on. (Dolomite?)
The colour coding was a great help with identifying genuine factory supplied steering racks, when you were fishing through a stock of 20 odd new ones to find a TR5 one to sell to an owner for £25.00 inc VAT. If you sold a TR owner a Spit/GT6 one it came strait back as it is about 3/4" too long. The casing and inner rack is the same as TR, the pinion is different (one less teeth) and the tie rods are a different length by about 3/8" each.
Cheers
Peter W
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Hi
i have been thinking about fitting a stereo in the three, however a modern stereo would
look completely out of place
giving the mater some thought i decided to cut/unscrew, the front plate of an old medium/light wave radio
i am going to hinge this in front of the modern stereo so you have got the looks plus the sounds
has anybody else gone this way
pink
Tried this once.
The problems started with the unit being Neg earth.
Then where to position so I could work it and NOT ruin the interior look or restrict leg room.
Then where the speakers should be and how to get wires to them neatly.
I did it by mounting the thing in the glove box, I could just about work it, so the interior was not compromised. The speakers screwed up under the dash either side and the wiring was tidy. Neg earth was not a major trouble to achieve.
Only pit fall was not being able to hear it above 20 mph with the roof off, unless I cranked the loudness knob passed 11.... (have you noticed some wag at the BBC has included an 11 setting on the BBC i Player controls!) So it is REALLY loud.
It went in the bin the following Winter.
Cheers
Peter W
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see at the bar
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The pawls in my NOS one are thus.
Fiddly job or what!
Does that help?
To get the self cancel to work the inside cancelling lever needs to be opposite the indicator lever when fitted.
ie at the bottom as you push the control head into the steering wheel and then tighten the grub screws to retain. Then tighten the olive and nut at the bottom (if you loosened it)
Cheers
Peter W
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Richard,
Moss sell the grub screw pt no 059107 - I know I sourced them!
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=2360#3
PM me if you need photos. I will have to do it through my personal email as I have no skill with uploading to the forum.
Cheers
Peter W
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A sad and nasty tale.
I would also consider renewing the oil cooler matrix, if you have one and it is fed by unfitered oil, plus clean out the hoses too.
Also consider a strip and clean of the oil pressure relief valve.
I am now fearful of the repro pump in my engine.
Oil Pump 200155 - Perhaps one for the Spares Development Fund?
Not cheaper but reliable and of the right quality?
Moss used to have an UK manufacturer that was too expensive to make the product saleable against the non UK one from XRN/County. Do we want to be like the MG Owners club and start a parts business to kick the other parts suppliers about?
Cheers
Peter W
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Thrust Washer pinning on 6 cyl TR engines was done on almost every exchange re-built unit at Cox and Buckles in the time I worked there from 1979 to 1993.
The jury is still out on whether this was a good modification for road going cars as it meant the crank shaft has to be removed to replace worn thrust washers.
Cheers
Peter W
Two questions
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Paul.
Doesn't the armature of the frog have a drive dog on the bag of it for the tacho, if so does that make it too long for a sealed end backplate of the TR dynamo?
Peter W