BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Posts posted by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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5 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:
I never realised that there were different covers for the hood sticks. My car is a 3a and I was sent a cover with the long ears, so just added the missing peg to the B post.
Ralph
...and the extra peg gets close to or touches the sidescreen?
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11 minutes ago, RogerH said:
Hi Paul,
remove the shoes and clean it down as best you can.
Refit the wheel and rotate the wheel whilst keeping your hand on the tyre.
Can you hear or feel a noise from the bearing - if yes, you will need a new hub.
Then hold the tyre at the 12 & 6-o-clock position and give it a good waggle. Did you feel any play (there should be absolutely none)
If you could feel play then you need a new hub.
Moss sell their own new build hubs that work well.
Bastuk make new hubs that probably work well. Both these are to the original design.
Others have converted to CV joints.
Roger
Is this car a TR4 with a rigid axle or a TR4A with wobbly rear axle?
If the latter Roger has stated correctly above.
if TR4 then a couple of issues pop up.
1. when did the grease nipple behind the axle hub flange get pumped full of grease? Might just have been over lubricated.
2. The end float of the axle shafts needs checking and correcting. Jack up both sides and push/pull one side. The movement in total should be 0.004-0.006 inch That’s a couple of hair’s thickness, so not felt by hand.
3. The outer hub seal needs renewing - not a simple task as the drive flange needs to be removed from the axle shaft without bending the flange. Special tool required. Do not go at it with a legged puller, or power press and two bars.
4. I have never seen a rear hub bearing failure on this type of axle. That does not mean that it can’t.
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Terri Ann’s info is in the link
http://www.tr3a.info/WeberDCOEinfo.htm
What we do know is TR engines need the float set lower than the super smooth moderns like Ford et al as they do shake about causing frothing etc.
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Your car is a TR3A. You seem to have a hood stick cover with the longer ears that goes on TR2 and 3.
Skinner do make the right one for your car. Here is a photo from their web page
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26 minutes ago, Max said:
Thank you, the friction material is glued. So if I want to renew all the shoes, front and back I can ask to make 5mm all of them?
No.
You will need to show them your brake drums and give them the original diameter. 10 inches front and rear. Or could be 10 inches front and 9” rear, depending on year.
If they make them too thick you may not get the brake drums back on!
I have an unused new brake shoe somewhere. Are you in a rush? Could take me a day or two if I can actually find it. That will give the correct original thickness. The re lining company probably have material that is up to 10 mm thick and will stick that on then machine the shoe assemblies to the correct diameter for the drums. You must ask them unless they have an original specification for your car and the brake type.
Is this Girling or Lockheed brake system and what car? -
1 hour ago, RogerH said:
Dunlop were definitely being produced in India in the 1990's
Roger
In “the street of a thousand spokers”
https://wheelsindia.com/manufacturing-locations/
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Regarding ‘substance’. This is described as lining or friction material,
Is it attached by rivets? In which case the rivets must be below the surface of the friction material by 1-2 mm if you are refitting.
If it is a bonded or glued type lining then 2-3 mm minimum.
You will hear and experience it if the lining has worn through.
The brake shoe metal part can be re-lined if you cannot find new.
https://custombrakes.co.uk/services/vintage-and-classic-cars/
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38 minutes ago, RobH said:
This describes adjustment of the self-park. I think it's written for RR owners so the switch and wiring colours are different but the mechanics should be the same:
Knew I had seen a TR7 wiper motor rebuild. Here it is if it helps. Mentions with photos the park switch.
https://oldtonewrestorations.com/triumph-tr7-restoration-repairing-refitting-the-wiper-system/
Fun Fact….
The very first TR7 I drove was on the first TR Register John O Groats to Land Ends run in 1975. The wiper motor of that brand new car failed on the M5 not far from Exeter in the pouring rain, so we requested a new one at the main dealer, Mumfords. They had no motor nor mechanics available but jokingly said they had a new car in the show room, and If you want to take the motor off that we were welcome.
We had the bonnet up and the motors swapped in under 1/2 hour. The workshop manager observed this activity and asked if we’d like a job. We completed the run to Land End in the rain in the TR7, leaving Mumfords with a brand new TR7 in their sales room with a duff wiper motor. -
On 4/14/2024 at 2:33 PM, Phil Read said:
Yep that's the one.
Am I digging in the garage for one for you or are you sorted?
STARTER NOW SOLD.
Update..
I have a starter motor. It is a new/rebuilt Lucas 2M100 type motor rather than the M418G type. This is only relevant if you are buying internal bits for it. This type is used on more recent Land Rover vehicles, so is quite sturdy.
It has fitted a used TR3A/4 10 tooth bendix gear. It runs perfectly off load, but probably needs the end plate taking off and a drop of oil in the bearings, as it has sat on my shelf for ten odd years.Yours outright for £45. 00 plus whatever the postage is.
PM me if interested and I will send you details.
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2 hours ago, ianc said:
I wouldn't say "lucky". Why ?
Because Pete Buckles above all believed in "Preserving the Marque" (once the mantra for the TR Register - remember) and he pursued this policy with dogged determination, and was followed by others of similar ilk.
We have been exceedingly fortunate to have benefitted enormously from Pete's farsightedness, which has meant that parts for TRs are, on the whole, readily available and not expensive - anyone who owns a modern will have knowledge of difficulties with parts and the cost thereof.
Has anyone explored the record of the group acquiring Moss and Rimmers, to see how the other companies under its control have performed, and, in particular, how the customers using the acquired companies have fared ?
ian Cornish
I have used Pitch Book to research who else is in the Radial portfolio. https://pitchbook.com/profiles/investor/431692-84#faqs
It looks like a many armed/layered company. What that means ultimately is not something I know about. There is Radial Equity 1 the fund and Radial Equity Partners the investor. Both at the same address.
Their financial association is with New value capital and Irving place capital. Bear Sterns also is a name that pops up.
Radial are owners of American Chrome the go to shop for chrome bits to hang on your trans US rig ( that statement could be misinterpreted) That fits with the automotive angle. https://pitchbook.com/profiles/company/263280-79#faqs
Plus what looks like a Unipart type company called MultiParts. American Chrome are described as a subsidiary
Coker Tire are in there. They are/were the place for red stripes on your TR250 tires (tyres) but these seem to be expensive since the pandemic. https://pitchbook.com/profiles/company/121261-24#faqs
185/80/15 red stripe. https://www.cokertire.com/tires.html?size_section_width_radial=2398&shop_aspect_ratio_radial=1939&tire_rim_diameter=1714&sidewall_style=2461&tire_build=1627
I note that K&N were once financed by New Value Capital. In 2016. https://pitchbook.com/profiles/investor/135952-39#exits
This research does not constitute any statement of fact as it was copied from an internet source as noted at the beginning.
E&OE
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Has this just started or has it been there some time?
If just started is it a new clutch?
Is snatch a single event as the pedal is raised or does it feel like it is jerking as the pedal comes up?
If new clutch then consider the dowel bolts that locate the engine and gear box have not been fitted
Lubrication has been covered above.
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On 4/1/2024 at 10:15 AM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Me too. I have sufficient Motul 20/50 to do an oil change and will be doing so very soon. If it lunches my engine I will report back and also give Motul an earful.
OK it’s in with a new filter.
initial oil pressure is reassuring as it’s up at 65 psi warm at fast tickover
more in a week when I’ve done some miles
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2 hours ago, RobH said:
Effective as an antifreeze perhaps but what about anti - corrosion? I understand that using up the corrosion inhibitors is why normal coolant is recommended to be swapped often - not loss of its antifreeze properties.
The very reason I have today changed the coolant in my car some 2 years after pouring it in.
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3 hours ago, Z320 said:
Hi,
ATE calipers (Germany) have a shoulder on the piston,
this has to be turned in the correct position to have benefit of the less wear out effect.
The ATE springs look like a cross“, called „push apart springs“, I made them Girling suitable my own from spring steel,
The holes in the pads more or less exactly suitable I don’t care, as long the pins fit to the calipers.
Current the fit exactly because I had to drill the Mintex pads wider.
The assembly works well this way.
Ciao, Marco
That’s the photo I have been searching for. All done with a pop rivet and a bit of spring steel strapping
Elegant solution.
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Magnet on a bit of string through the starter motor hole might recover the lost bits.
So your starter looks a bit like this one the later exposed bendix type.
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Link to previous discussion
50 minutes ago, Phil H 4 said: -
8 minutes ago, Adam Blackaby said:
Hello all,
Been there, done that and got the tee-shirt.
As a Moss employee I witnessed, and worked through, the buy out of Moss by Inghams. There was some logic to that as they already owned M&G International and the synergy was there. But even so, and much to their regret, 2+2 didn't make 5, more like 3!!!!
Also we still retained the deep knowledge and care for the classic car world of Messrs Buckles and Buchanan who tried to keep the ethos of maintaining the parts supply alive.
Who are this new lot and what's their experience of our cars and that market?
If the impetus came from Robert Goldman wanting to cash in his chips, I expect that his father Howard is turning in his grave!
Bad news all round I fear.
Plus one to that Adam as a contemporary who also witnessed that stupendous bit of ‘reverse synergy’ by Inghams.
They were notably described at the time by a customer who was an investment banker as “the stuffed shirts with a brass plaque in Jersey” -
41 minutes ago, Phil H 4 said:
Thanks both.
The pins are 1/4" and correct, I no intention of drilling the calliper , not necessary.
Question is looking at the new pads, the holes in the pads are oval not round...quite a lot of movement with the 1/4" pins. ( The previous pads round holes ) are they correct. I gave all information inc commissioning No to Remington's.
Second question regarding shims, Thanks Neil in confirming the appearance of the shims. Unfortunately holes will not take 1/4" pins which are correct for the callipers should I drill out shims or wait to exchange as I think 3/16" have been sent.
Thanks
Phil
Sorry wrong end of the stick.
You could use brake pad anti rattle springs I got fed up with pad rattle and fitted them some 30 years ago. Would not be without them. They are nothing more than bits of shaped spring wire.
Here is a view of how they fit and a NOS Girling pad fitting kit that included them
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1 hour ago, Phil H 4 said:
I have just received some new brake pads from a reputable supplier for my 1972 CP TR6.
The hole use 1/4" pins as opposed to 3/16"
The new pads have an oval holes as opposed to round holes in the old pads, would this cause excessive movement ?
I am replacing the pads along with anti squeal shims and non were fitted previously.
The holes in the shims will not take the pins. I think the 3/16 ones have been supplied so will need to exchange or drill out !
The shins appear a strange shape, I think the brake piston will be half on and half off the shim. Do they look right ?
Guidance on these matters always appreciated
Phil.
Fit the correct ones, don’t faf about drilling the calipers unless you are equipped to do so.
The correct pads and shims are available for the later type with smaller pins also.
Fitting the pads with 1/4” holes using 3/16” pins will make for noisey pads rattling in the caliper.
Ask the specialist to supply what you actually require.
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5 minutes ago, Hamish said:
My TR3A was ‘done’ completely under the bonnet with spray on under seal when I bought it in ‘75.
It took me over a week to soak/scrape it all off.
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9 hours ago, RobH said:
Japanning is lacquer or varnish - I doubt that would be used on bolts. I think the original (cheap) finish for bolts is black oxide.
The translation of 'Schwarz verzinkt' is black galvanised.
As in black phosphate finish.?
I think there is also a black chromate finish for zinc and cadmium plating. Best of luck with getting cadmium plating done today. The cadmium plated bolts I did for my TR2 engine in the process shop as an apprentice 50 + years ago are still rust free.
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The socket is thin wall 3/8” drive the knuckle bar is 1/4” sq. drive. Gorrila drive (1/2” ) only ever used on suspension and heavy stuff.
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Blow a bit of Schutz on the panel?
I’ll get my coat.
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We’ve done this.
This is the tool set up I use from the engine bay side with a ring type crows foot spanner. Fitting the nut is the most difficult part of the job.
TR3 Lockheed rear axle assembly
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Is this a view of the taper collar from the other side of the car against the other drive flange hub and taper collar? The drive flange hub has the taper collar fitted in it and needs removing before you refit the drive flange hub. The splined collar or collet is designed to grip the half shaft spline as the axle nut is tightened. Note that the torque setting for that nut increased when a later type of nut was fitted.