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BlueTR3A-5EKT

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Posts posted by BlueTR3A-5EKT

  1. 6 minutes ago, RobH said:

    That was me Peter - you need the TR6 switch and a 6A diode. This shows it for a negative-earth system. 

     

    613447613_simpleswmodformotorcopy.jpg.434e5c8c95956403308ee9ba635fd13a.jpg

    Thank you.

    A lot more elegant and understandable than the one I found

    image.jpeg.e2cc8512219da9be5f995acea46e7e27.jpeg

  2. The Clear Hooters 3 terminal wiper switch for TR5 is pretty much unique.   I think It was also used on contemporary GT6 mk 2

    I have never found a Lucas replacement switch with 3 terminals with the  same internal connections as the TR5/250 rocker switch does.   The US recall on Triumph wiper switches only offered the 4 terminal Lucas item, suitable for TR6 and the later 14w motor.

    There is/was a wiring diagram floating about that describes how to use a TR6 switch with 4 terminals with the 3 wire wiper motor in a TR5/250.    Someone may have it and post 

  3. 4 hours ago, PodOne said:

    Hi folks

    1969 PI distributor which I think is original which has being reconditioned by Dizzy Doc and fitted with electronic ignition.

    On examination it has a small knurled adjuster wheel I presume for advance/retarding the ignition. There is no vacuum connection/diaphragm.

    Does this actually do anything or do you have to turn the whole body to adjust? 

    Thanks

    Andy 

    Yes that is correct arrangement.  Lucas 41219 distributor.

    There is a blank end where the vacuum capsule could be.  

    The knurled nut works in an identical way to those Lucas distributors with a capsule, it will advance or retard the points base plate when turned.

    image.jpeg.0141f806f204feede4aa9fa19bcba3b3.jpeg

  4. There is a square steel plate above the pedals inside the car that is held on by 4 self tapping screws.

    Remove it and you can get at the master cylinder attachment bolts from inside the car, with a socket on an extension.

  5. 1 hour ago, james christie said:

    I quite like this idea although it looks a tad fragile. The overall length is 13cm so The stalk is probably about 11cm - enough to be within reach of a finger with a hand on the steering wheel
     

    https://www.racingmotorshop.fr/carrosserie-eclairage/electricite/interrupteur-et-prise/10649-interrupteur-a-impulsion-tige-ronde-2-positions.html?gad_source=4&gclid=CjwKCAjw5v2wBhBrEiwAXDDoJYXJP8PojY0yUnjCJhR8KcYorfipv0O-cnbVq3uriprf1uTBq3GBghoCmaUQAvD_BwE

     

    jamed

    That looks like an on/off two position switch not a spring loaded passing contact momentary type of switch, which is needed for Roger’s unit.

  6. A couple of questions for you

    Are you concerned about the noise and that it may harm your engine?

    How much is another oil filter?  Buy one and shake that?

    Alternatively…..How much is a crank re grind plus shells?

    If I doubted the filter I would replace it for peace of mind

    If when the new replacement arrives and it too makes the same rattle,  you can put the new filter on the shelf and leave the one you noted as rattling fitted to the car. 

  7. We have two Dovre multi fuel stoves.   Both have to be above a certain efficiency to satisfy the clean air zone we live in.   They are both certificated to prove this.    https://dovre.co.uk
    We too have stove top fans bought from Lidl at about £20 each and a thermometer to confirm it is all burning hot enough.   Both chimneys are flue lined and the installations were completed by HETAS approved installer.

    I reduced the grate size this year on our 7 kw stove using fire bricks as advised by the maker as the stove threw out too much heat for the room size.   It is bordering on tropical!

  8. 2 hours ago, Phil Read said:

    Morrisons supermarket is a typical example of US private equity companies. They borrow money to fund the buy out and then sell assets and load their debt onto the company they have bought,

    Last year, Morrisons finance costs were £735m – up from £593m the year before. About £400m of that reflected annual interest payments on the grocer's borrowings, which stood at £5.4bn.

    Let us not forget Thames Water.

  9. I’ll be watching EBay closely for the Moss and Rimmers inventory sell down sale.   Some creamy now irreplaceable slow moving stock could hit the sales floor at knock down prices,   Unless the bean counters conclude dumping the stock in the bin is a cheaper option……would not be the first time that happened.  Unipart used to do it regularly and some lovely Triumph parts went for sale at scrap prices.   It was the quick action by the TR specialist that saved the stuff that could not feasibly be remade.   Think TR6 crankshafts and blocks here.

  10. 1 hour ago, Lo100469 said:

    Hi Peter,

    Thanks, very interesting reading, i can see the 8.5mm for a brass floater.  This is the number i wanted to check for the plastic one, i could find 14mm in some places.

    If you lower that number, you make the fuel level higher by the same amount.  When you say a TR engine requires the float set lower you mean the fuel level?

    kind regards,

    Laurent

    Yes lowered fuel level to stop frothing and overflowing, is what I was told years ago by the man operating the rolling road in Mitcham.   They had a dyno with a red line at 300 BHP so there was not going to be an issue for my friends TR2 on Webers.

  11. 1 minute ago, stuart said:

    Not be a lot of call for that these days I suppose ;)

    Stuart.

    I sold a lot of my other DC4 engine (P&W Wasp etc) tools to a man who restores ‘war birds’   He was more than chuffed at being able to get the unique tools for certain engine repair tasks.    Bit like finding an old Triumph dealer with a cupboard full of Churchill tools.

  12. 5 minutes ago, Lebro said:

    Agreed !

    Bob

    Agreed also.

    I found benefit in leaving the axle in the car when using the tool.  You then have the axle shaft supported.  Ohh and take the washer out from under the nut or you do not know the taper has separated.  Fitting a short length of the correct diameter steel rod in the split pin hole or the force on the end of the shaft wilt deform it.

  13. 18 hours ago, Emrys Parry said:

    I made my own version of the Ops Manual spanner, details and dimensions from a post on face book. Thankfully it works !!!

    Distributor spanner..jpg

    Please could you post the dimensions you used so those that come later will benefit?

  14. 1 hour ago, Z320 said:

    Btw,

    this is an interesting issue, mostly not taken serious:

    new standard brake shoes for old brake drums!

    Commonly is stated they need some time to „bed in“, but for a perfect fit and for the self forcing effect possibly much more is needed:

    the shoes can be fixed wider as usual on a face chuck to cut the friction liners down to the perfect diameter.

    AP1GczOid-luT6Zcueu0cFr2mJs-F79yE2y4TBe0

    OR MORE SIMPLE - fit new brake shoes with new brake drums.

    This is what I finally did.

    Ciao, Marco 

    Excellent solution for fitting worn drums to new shoes if you have access to the machinery and measuring tool.

     

    I have measured the new original shoes I have.

    The 9" x 1.75" (rear ones) have 4.8 mm of friction material

    The 10" x 2.25" (front ones) have 4.7 mm of friction material.  

    So...Your 5 mm suggestion is not a long way off.

     

    Where are you Max and who would you buy your spares from normally?

     

     

     

     

     

  15. On 4/5/2024 at 2:59 PM, Max said:

    Everything was easier than I was thinking but I saw the problem is my hub, need to replace it.:wacko:. Why did the hub get broken like this:

    IMG_5050.jpeg

    Is this a view of the taper collar from the other side of the car against the other  drive flange hub and taper collar?  The drive flange hub has the taper collar fitted in it and needs removing before you refit the drive flange hub.  The splined collar or collet is designed to grip the half shaft spline as the axle nut is tightened.  Note that the torque setting for that nut increased when a later type of nut was fitted.  

     

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