HowardB
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Posts posted by HowardB
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No - I was wondering the same thing....
How very odd
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On another forum there has been a lot of discussion about fitting alternative seats to 7's and a number of individuals have tried. I recall seeing MX5 seats which look good in but every case they were higher than the originals which are very low profile. One idea was that to lower the runners but cutting slots in the floor and fitting them in a channel which gains an inch or so.
Regarding the comfort, make sure that the internal padding is in good condition - I replaced mine and it makes them much more comfortable for long runs (eg Round Britain Rally, 10 Countries Rally) - and this seems to be the generally preferred route for a decent comfortable seat in a TR7/8.
Cheers
Howard
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It sound exactly the same as the problem I had which I traced to a bad earth connection. The easiest way to overcome this is to add a new earth from the flasher to the earth inside the engine bay on the RHS wheel arch.
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Would thought it more likely the likes of S+S & Robsport would / should have this type of tool to hire out - they are doing the job regular & as per the Wedge Group - if it damaged you pay the cost of the replacement parts just like any Hire shop.
Hiring out the tool as a commercial operation may suit them.
For what is worth Robsport have their own head removal tool which I have seen them use on a very recalcitrant head.
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I was driving to my new home in Manila (am working here for a couple of years) when I came across this rather nice TR3 - It appears to be a US model in immaculate condition - the owner also had a frogeye sprite and a few US classic cars as well. A real surprise to find a Triumph out here....
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Not sure what happened but only posted part of my reply. Here's the second part:_
3) I have Greenstuff pads fitted and there is some, but not excessive travel, so probably needs bleeding
4) I also fitted bearings at the top of my struts and haven't noticed as much difference as I expected. However the only time I find my steering heavy is when I do a full lock 3 point turn pulling out of my garage - the rest of the time its fine. Maybe something else is making it heavy?
5) Can't comment on the noise, but I run on Rimmers Polybushes throughout with standard springs and an anti dive kit fitted. This gives a very good balance of comfort (48 hours sitting in my TR7 in the RBRR without any problems is proof of that!) & handling suitable for some very spirited road driving
Happy motoring
Howard
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Hi to another TR7 owner - I could be persuaded to fancy a hard top like yours, anyhow to reply to your questions:-
1) Clutch, bites low towards the floor. I have a very similar issue on mine and have driven it 20K miles in the last three years without any problems. Discussing it a couple of weeks ago with Simon @ Robsport he told me that there was a batch of clutches about 10/15 years ago that all suffered from this problem - they have the car in for a service and apparently the fix is a simple adjustment of a bracket. Another possible cause is the flexible hydraulic hose has become too flexible (heat related issue) and the hose is expanding instead of the clutch moving.
2) Am not 100% certain about Triumph 13" alloys, but on my 7 the Princess calipers fit OK under the standard steel wheels. FYI I have fitted 14" MGF wheels - it certainly improves the choice of tyres.
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Further to my last post, the ebay key came from mgee_fan & the email address for the american supplier is
gpr@key-men.com
Both keys fitted the locks on my '81 TR7 OK
Howard
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I had the same problem & found that I could not obtain matching blanks from the local key shops. I obtained one set of blanks via Ebay - if I recall correctly the seller was in Stevenage and the other set I purchased from a supplier in USA. If you are unable to locate a source email me on h.brissenden (at) clara.co.uk & I will look up the details of the USA suppliers
Happy motoring
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One that was recommended to me was POR15 also available from Frosts. have tried it on my car but will not be able to give you a long term report for a few years
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I cannot give the definitive answer as haven't got anything to compare with apart from the standard wheel/tyre combination, but currently I am running with 185's on the front and 205's on the rear. Main issue was getting the tyre pressures sorted to give the best handling and have settled on 28 front / 30 rear as feeling about right. Road holding is more than adequate for my use.
Have attached a photo for your info IMHO the original MGF wheels look betteron the car than the more recent versions
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You don't mention the year, but if its a late model it may have waxstats (I think that is the correct spelling) which can cause problems with very uneven tickover. I am replacing mine with fixed jets to solve the problem and to avoid the risk of damaging the engine
Good Luck
Howard
2, How the **** do you get it to idle properly, balanced the carbs using my ear and gunsons carb balancer. Set the mixture with colourtune and it idles more like a rabbit (if you get the analogy).All the best
If you are happy the carbs are now set-up correctly, I guess you should now look at the igintion side of the engine. e.g. Check the dizzy cap, roto-arm and condensor. Make sure the HT leads have not gone high resistance. If you use the colour tune in each cylinder it should help to pip point where the igintion problems are. Then there is of course the timing, check both the static and the dymanic. If I remember this should be 10 deg BTDC.
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Andrew,
If you look up the registration up on askmid.com, it shows that the car is not currently insured in the UK.
Good luck
Howard
I am seeking any information regarding the whereabouts, or indeed demise of my fathers saffron '72 TR-6 sold shortly before his rather untimely death in 1982. The car was originally registered YKE 617J.The car was seen locally around South East London and Kent at various intervals for many years afterwards. although not for some time now.
I am keen to hear from anyone who came across the car during its later lives, or indeed any members who are able to suggest appropriate resources I could utilise to find out what happened to it.
Many thanks in advance.
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last two attempts at posting this failed, but this months TR Driver's club magazine has a reprinted article that dimensions exactly where all the badges are located on all the different versions.
Howard
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I have to do the same thing, but from an initial look it seems to me that the cables can be accessed from behind the control leaver which only requires the conole to be removed - which is quite easy. The motor cables appear to be accessible from the passenger footwell, so I was thinking of replacing the wiring to the resistor pack and moving to somewhere more accessible.
Good luck
Howard
What happened to the triumphtr7.com forum?
in TR7/8 Forum
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It now seems to be showing some signs of life - front page is sort of accessible