Jump to content


Registered User
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by HowardB

  1. Propshaft you have a PM H
  2. The Australian Company Ian is referring to is TST- TST TR7 Carpets About 10 years ago I had a replacement set of Rimmers / Robsport carpets fitted to my 7. The were showing serious signs of wear after about 6 years & needed replacing again. I came across TST when make moulded carpets to fit & after some chat with various Aussies on another TR7 forum, it was clear that they were good hard wearing product. I fitted them to my car and despite a few issues due to my lack of experience, but you can see the end result in the attached photos. The TST carpets require underlays (ob
  3. I have one fitted to my 7 many years ago and would suggest one minor modification to the Kenlowe wiring diagram. I swapped the fan feed from a non-switched supply which allows the fan to run on after you stop if the car if the engine is hot. Cheers Howard
  4. Rob, This is the updated version of my wiring diagrams with additional information. UK DHC 1980-81 TR7 (2020-09) with pektron fuel gauge & fan details Cheers Howard
  5. Keep an eye on the official regulations. I was considering something similar on my TR7 by replacing one of the reversing lights with a High Intensity Red LED fog light and found that there has to be a minimum distance between the fog light and the brake light.
  6. I have some history using electronic flashers which may assist. On the TR7 there are two separate flashers for the hazard and indicator lights & as the 7 flashers are notorious for suffering from poor flash rates due to earthing problems I swapped for the original indicator flasher for the electronic version. Roll on a few years and I fitted LED indicator bulbs, but at the time I was unaware that there was a separate hazard flasher - so the indicators worked correctly, but the hazards were much to fast! As a short term fix I fitted 6.8 ohm 50Watt resistors in parallel with the LED ind
  7. It depends on the vehicle. The TR7 requires a separate flasher and hazard relay to work. Its nothing to do with the load, but down to the circuit design. When I first fitted LED bulbs I had an electronic flasher relay & a the traditional thermal hazard relay fitted. To make this work I had to wire 6.8Ohm 50 Watt resistors in parallel with the LED bulbs ...
  8. One other point to note is that the front wheel bearing caps clash with the wheel centre clips. I cut the clips off and fix them in place with contact adhesive - just remember to remove them before you have the wheels balanced and glue them back in place afterwards...
  9. I simply spray them silver and the MG logo vanishes. See attached photo: Cheers Howard
  10. The EBC items I fitted are:- GD200 - EBC GD Series Slotted and Dimpled Sport Discs (Pair) DP4243R - EBC Yellowstuff 4000 Series Street and Track Brake Pad Set You can look the up in their website and check the sizes (Note: the pictures are typical and do not show the actual items) H
  11. It also depends on the discs you have fitted - TR7 or TR8 are slightly different sizes.The TR8 disc is about 1/4" larger diameter. My 7 has EBC yellow stuff and TR8 discs fitted so suggest contacting them for advice.
  12. Wire runs back to behind the trim behind the seats and then runs across to the passenger side before running forward along the side of the footwell. I am not sure how it finally gets to the instrument cluster however. See the attached photo which shows the wiring in this area. Cheers Howard
  13. HowardB

    Side lights

    Please recheck all your earths as this usually is the route of the problem - when you have done that check them again very carefully. Only if that doesn't work, see the attached drawings with explanations of the various strange circuits..... H TR7 electrical dwg UK 81 DHC.pdf
  14. These days my 7 has Princess calipers with EBC TR8 vented rotors and yellow stuff pads after I upgraded the pads and discs when a brisk drive down the Stelvio pass ended up with slightly warped discs. I have found this set up to work well When I bought the car it had the calipers already installed with standard TR8 rotors - initially I had green stuff pads, but subsequently my garage replaced them, possibly with Mintex, which always left a lot of dust on the wheels after a run. Car is used for pleasure including some of the longer CT events - RBRR & 10 Countries Run - and has cov
  15. Hope this helps - its my TR7 which has been electrically tweaked with LED lighting and various other mods, but shows the kenlow wiring and a few other useful bits of information Howard TR7 modified wiring diagram.pdf
  16. Photos attached showing front of engine and additional fuse board. If you would like a copy of my TR7 wiring diagram let me know & I will post a link. Cheers Howard
  17. Photos attached showing front of engine and additional fuse board. If you would like a copy of my TR7 wiring diagram let me know & I will post a link. Cheers Howard
  18. Simple answer is yes. It makes any work on the running engine safer with no fan spinning around. Photo shows Kenlow thermostat with the two control relays mounted behind offside headlight. Fan is wired to run even when the ignition is off to ensure cooling after a long run & I also fitted an auxiliary fuseboard concealed behind the suspension turret in this photo. Cheers Howard
  19. You can also try Tex Automotive who supply convex mirrors. I have them fitted on my TR7 and they make a real improvement. Howard
  20. Most of my loom is original & the wires are still in reasonable condition so suggest you talk to the usual suspects and see if they can supply a 2nd hand one if its beyond repair. The wiring looms changed a lot over the life of the car so be very careful you get the right one. For example the very last 7's had an intermittent wipe circuit added & the only change was that the wires go to different pins in the male & female plugs! Replacing sections that have been damaged should not be overly difficult. Most coloured wires are available from AES https://www.autoelectricsupplies.
  21. Its probably worth checking the diodes and limit switches in the headlamp pods. A small bulb and a PP9 battery are ideal for this. Connect the battery and bulb in series to the +Ve connected to the blue light green wire and the -Ve connected to the green wire - these should be easily accessible at the connector just behind the headlamps. By hand wind the headlamp through a complete cycle and the bulb should be on all the time except when the pods are fully down. Reverse the positive and negative connections and repeat. This time the bulb should not light up at all. Now connect the ba
  22. Hi Alfie, So when you operate the flasher switch the lights don't come on at all ? If they don't that indicates a problem with the main power wiring in addition to the headlamp raise/lower circuit. The original Pektron is shown in the attached picture and plugs straight into the wiring loom which is different from the new Robsport version. Also suggest you check your fuse sizes if the fuseboard has been replaced. The old Lucas fuses were rated based on the current they blew at, but a modern fuse is rated at the current is can carry continuously. So a Lucas 50A fuse should be rep
  23. I assume the lights still come on when you use the flash. You have proved a lot of things already:- 1) Master light switch and flasher switch work 2) Headlamp pop-up motors & associated circuits are working as they both automatically go down when connected to power. One more test you can try is to disconnect the power at the battery and wind the headlights to the up position (taking great care not to injure yourself) Make sure the master light switch is in the headlamp on position then reconnect the power. If both lamps immediately go down the problem is in the flash re
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.