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Everything posted by charlie74

  1. Ceramic coating of the exhaust manifold is meant to reduce intake manifold and under bonnet temps quite a bit. I had it done but didn’t do before-and-after measurements so I cannot claim to be much of a scientist...my manifold needed cosmetic help so i went that route hoping to kill two birds at once. c74
  2. Check your oil and look for coolant/water in it. White smoke might mean the head gasket has or is about to fail...hopefully not!
  3. charlie74

    belt trouble

    Another option to facilitate changing the belt is to put a jack under the main frame cross member at the front and lift the car slightly which will allow for removal of two of the bolts on either side of the tubular brace that is situated in front of the engine. With two bolts removed and the weight on the jack it can then be rotated to create the clearance to either change the belt or position one in “storage” for later use. of course, this wont correct worn mounts or anything like that... . c74
  4. That Dr Doolin video is invaluable if one is to try this! I built my spring compressor based on his video and it worked great. Luckily i was in a port town and was able to source a chunk of 1/2” aluminum for a few bucks and i did all the drilling myself. I also ised some old rubber grommets from replaced shock absorbers on the top of it so I didn’t wreck the paint on the top shock mount. well done! It was a fun project for me and made a big improvement to the ride quality c74 ps. Sorry I don’t have any pictures of the compressor in action...
  5. Hello years ago my father bought a basket case 3A from a gentleman in London Ontario who had purchased the car sight unseen from Utah. It was advertised as rust free and was way above the abilities of this fella to restore. Once it arrived home my dad started a body-off restoration that took 4 years to complete. Indeed it was a beauty when it was finished and a far cry from the heap that it was. I remember having a couple of friends around to the house to look at it and they both openly laughed at my dad and said he was crazy ! It even had bullet holes ! anyway, once it was completed it was driven (once) around the corner to get some photos and for reasons too long to get into here it was then loaded on a trailer the following day and it was sold to a gent in Denmark. Fortunately i was able to purchase the 74 TR6 that would have been it’s stable mate and i still have it 21 years later. It too was a body off re-do and is in the same condition as it was when finished (almost). Does any one know of its whereabouts or does this sound familiar? I am only asking out of curiosity but it would be nice to tell my dad if it is still on the road. Unfortunately I don’t know the commission number but IIRC it was a ‘53 finished in red with a grey interior that had red piping... thanks!
  6. charlie74

    Her first start

    This might sound stupid and forgive me if you have done this; make sure your distributor is seated properly and is rotating when the engine is cranked. I had mine out once and didn’t tighten the clamp enough and it lifted enough for the drive dog to come out of the gear and stopped me dead on the side of the road. Good luck!
  7. I am glad this has come up; I as considering doing the change this coming spring but now I don’t think I’ll bother...
  8. This site often comes in handy: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TailLights.htm
  9. You are correct regarding the delay in oiling the bearings if the original cartridge type filter is used. I have no idea how much more wear is incurred by using the original style filters but I changes mine because I thought i’d Rather not take any chances. I have had my conversion on for close to 10 years now and it has been great. Oil changes are less messy. And no leaks. If you do change to the spin on style adapter, just make sure you are able to remove the old o-ring completely from inside the block so you can replace it with a new one. It might take a pic or a small screwdriver to get it out but it must come out or you will have oil all over your garage floor. plus, there are many high quality filters to choose from. c74
  10. Very impressive! It’s great to see that you and your car have recovered and back on the road!
  11. all i do is put marine grade stabilizer in the fuel (tank is full), close the fuel valve i have installed, and remove the battery so i can periodically charge it. the car is covered, of course and some moth balls in the interior. i do not start it as you can not get it up to temperature just idling in the garage. if i am bored enough, i might remove the plugs and crank it over to get the oil pressure up but mine usually hibernates undisturbed until spring (unless there are projects but this is going to be a quiet winter...) c74
  12. Does anyone know how much the stock shock absorber should extend when new? I just got some from Moss and they seem to extend more than the ones I removed but they are quite old... Thanks in advance! C74
  13. mine split and the replacement split shortly afterwards due to inferior rubber (thats what i am telling myself). they are straight forward to replace but it is physically quite a grunt. IIRC i used needle nosed visegrips and a spare clip to pull the last few clips into position. have a good breakfast and do some stretches before you start this! once you have got it done, your workout will be complete and you will have lost 2-3 lbs in sweat!
  14. i replaced my boot seal also but made sure the seam was at the front by the fuel filler. i recently read elsewhere that the license plate lights can let in fumes to the boot. it might be worth trying to seal them too. c74
  15. actually, those secondary releases are pretty easy to make.
  16. this guy? he is from quebec and i am not sure if he is still involved in the hobby. c74 https://sites.google.com/site/faucherf/
  17. i replaced my main and big ends recently and was told by the roadster factory tech help gent that the big end bolts had to be replaced with new (mains should be also but i reused mine), torqued in stages of 25 lbs/ft at a time and assembly lube should be used. he did not mention anything about thread lock and i did not use any. it sounded to me that the torque was the important thing. i don't beleive there are any lock washers, mine did not have any and i haven't seen any in illustrated parts catalogues etc...
  18. i place my stands/blocks on the frame closest to wherever the weight is borne normally when the car is on the ground. ie, just inboard of the front wheels where the suspension is attached and just inboard for the rear coil springs (on the frame rail). i have been doing it this way for years with no adverse effects and even with the car totally off the ground i can still open and close the doors like normal. c74
  19. with mine which hibernates every winter, i put fuel stabilizer in a full tank of fuel. i have installed a fuel cut-off before the filter which i turn off. fresh filter and oil in the sump. some oil is squirted down the spark plug holes. the battery is removed and stored in a warm placed and charged monthly. i jack the car up enough to put cinder blocks underneath to take the weight off the tires/suspension. the car is parked on small squares of scrap laminate flooring to keep moisture from impregnating the tires. finally i cover it with my wifes favourite quilt. i do not start the car (unless there is a need) until the spring because it will never get up to operating temp and impurities will build up in the oil. in the spring the plugs come out and i crank over on the starter until oil pressure builds on the guage. YMMV, and i am sure that there are as many methods out there as there are cars. c74 if i could i'd use it year round but the winters are pretty severe here so that is a non-starter.
  20. my t/w's were replaced with some of the scott helm's alloy washers this spring and in my conversations with him regarding a full round rear thrust washer, he told me that unless your car is highly modified and used in competition it really wasn't necessary. see:http://www.customthrustwashers.com/index.html
  21. hi all, this is one of three forums regarding tr's that i frequent and thought that i would ask this "?" here. about a year ago i replaced the transmission fluid in my gearbox but recently i have read that GL5 is not the recommended fluid for our gearbox's which have "yellow metal" components that can become degraded/corroded by the sulphurous additives contained. since GL4 is difficult to source where i live i chose valvoline synthetic GL5 which is supposed to be "yellow metal" safe. even more recently, i have read on Quantum Mechanics site (http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=11) that 30 wt, non-detergent oil is the best, so i replaced the GL5 with that today. on a spirited test drive the transmission shifted beautifully and the overdrive worked just great also (both engaging and disengaging). now this is where i have a problem; as was pointed out on another forum which i saw after i got home the Quantum article cited tests in a freshly rebuilt o/d which mine is not. should i be concerned or get a life and stop reading so much? sorry if this is a silly question, but thanks in advance, c74
  22. mine with a Jet-Hot coating (ceramic):
  23. charlie74


    kob...is "she" the one in your avatar? if so i fully understand!
  24. that grease gun pipe looks pretty nice, but an alternative might be a needle fitting for your grease gun. you should be able to get some goo in there with that but it might be a bit of a fiddle.
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