JJC
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Posts posted by JJC
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Just been running the engine and it doesn't look like that. Also I moved the coil on our TR2 years ago onto the wing and that's never leaked. Any more thoughts? JJC
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Thanks Roger and Bob. I thought about that and decided even Triumph wouldn't do that. I'll put copper washers under the bolts to provide a seal and give it a whirl. JJCIs it possible that the tapped holes which held the coil mounting bracket go right through to the inside of the block ?
If so, then plug the holes with screws.
Bob.
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I've been chasing an engine oil leak for ages and simply cannot track it down. It's not the crankshaft oil seal because the clutch housing weep hole is completely clean (it's a significant leak). I've already stopped a leak from the oil pressure gauge outlet and from the rocker cover. After I moved the coil to the inner wing the leaked oil seemed to be everywhere that side of the engine. I have a feeling it only happens at higher revs when pressure is about 75psi. I have fiddled with the oil pressure relief valve. A long time ago there was a list of known oil leaks on here, would be very grateful if someone could track it down and repost it. Thanks JJC
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Andy. Thanks, that looks like a helpful couple of leads. JJC
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Am I alone in missing the agreed value tables we used to get under the old Register scheme? I found them very useful, easy to use, and I never disagreed with the answer. Well, only once, the last time they sent them out when values seemed to have risen substantially. But it turns out they were right.
Now it seems people like me who nothing about values are pretty much left to their own devices. JJC
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Is 45 a/h enough for a battery ? I don't drive in dark and rain. Car starts every time first go. My original workshop Manuel suggests it is. JJC
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Interesting having just this minute ordered a standard system to replace the wheelbarrow system I've had for nearly 30 years. Agreed it's part of a complete rebuild but the reason for the change is the fume problem. It sounds as though reverting to standard solves that problem. JJC
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Stuart Thanks useful info. I fell foul of the TR4 boot seal some time ago. The Woolies one worked fine.JJC
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Just picked this thread up. I need the rear bonnet seal. Are the seals from the usual suppliers ok or are they like the TR4 boot seal which I know to my cost is difficult. JJC
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I need to replace the finisher strip in the windscreen rubber. It's the original rubber so a bit hard. Any tips on how to do it? Thanks JJC
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And I have the hitch complete with socket. Also free to a good home.JJCTow bar kits for tr4-6 cars come up on eBay regularly. I have the rear cross piece of on but not the hitch. Free to a good home.
Tim
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Thanks eBay to the rescue
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Just coming up to putting the frame back on the body . Apparently all the readily available sealants are adhesive. So the frame wouldn't come off again. What's the recommended stuff to use? JJC
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When reassembling, use a genuine Payen head gasket.
Nigel
Nigel - where do you buy genuine Payen 4 cylinder gaskets? JJC
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Forget it!,, a true senior moment. I've been doing the same thing on the 6 and forgot the early box has a filler and dipstick. All that fuss for nothing
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Is there a way of topping up an early box? The filler hole doesn't seem to be quite as expected. I do have several other boxes all of which are as you would expect. Anyone with early box knowledge able to help? JJC
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Just to finish off........borrowed a 11/16 socket, the owner cut the tapered lead in off and it worked. So success finally. JJC
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I think we're there now. Ian's picture shows the tool for the later version. So I'm after a 11/16 whit box spanner or maybe a battered 30 mm socket. Many thanks to all. JJC
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Ian It's a 54 TR2 with original box. It doesn't use the same type of o/d drain as the later (but same type) of o/d. It sounds as though the thing you are describing does the same job as a c spanner but better. I might try and post a picture if anyone's interested. JJC
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Ian - is that tool designed to work with drain plugs which respond to a "c spanner"?
I have a c spanner to deal with the o/d on the 6 but the one on the 2 is different. It needs either a conventional spanner or socket. Andrew's post above says a 30mm socket does the trick. I don't have one (yet!). JJC
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Well that's great thanks I'll send you a PM
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Roger - no it's the early version which has a nut about 1 3/16 across the flats. It's the later version that uses a c spanner which I also have to drain on the 6. But I'm planning to buy one from Moss. I have three gearboxes to drain off the GL5 so I'm not too happy but glad you spotted it. JJC
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Yup it's the big brass nut. Have tried the inventive approach but am loath to thoroughly graunch it. However as this is to drain the 0.4 litres of GL5 (thanks to your post) and at my age I won't be doing it again that's the route I'll go. Maybe tidy it up when it's off. JJC
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So has this one beaten everyone?
Oil leak advice
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Peter
Thanks I'll work through those. We have tried washing off and running it up on ramps and couldn't see anything. I'm inclined to think push rod tubes because there's oil on that ledge. Not much admittedly but then it would get blown back. If the leak was lower down would it get blown up there? JJC