JJC
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Posts posted by JJC
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3 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi JJC,
I take it that you have oil in the carb dampers
Oh yes I go back a long way. Haven’t looked at diaphragms though. Another straw?
Roger
3 hours ago, stillp said:Strombergs or SUs?
Weepers aka Strombergs
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1 hour ago, stillp said:
Are the plugs wet after trying to start? Are the carb pistons lifting at all?
Well, yes but not very which is a bit surprising.
Yes pistons lift, jump up and down when turning starter.
Also it didn’t fire when we poured petrol in the carb air intakes.
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1 hour ago, RogerH said:
Hi JJC,
just to go over it all again.
have you got 12V at the coil with ignition on and when cranking.
Yes and the battery is new and big!
have you got a spark at the plugs or from the dizzy cap centre wire.
yes, expert friend checked holding the rotor arm by hand and flicking contacts open. Also did usual test with plugs on rocker cover
If not - is the LT flexible wire on the contact breakers in very good condition - remove and pull at the tags - the soldering can come adrift.
Try a replacement dizzy (from a running car if possible)
Hmm, could but I’d probably wind up with two dead TRs.
Roger
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And another straw clutched at. Thought maybe the coil was causing trouble so tried with a known working coil. Still doesn’t work.
Think earthing is sound.
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Mick ah yes, that’s pretty much what my expert friend said about the air leak. But! We’ve done the petrol in the carb intake trick and it still won’t fire. It has tried to fire at completely weird moments but not with any serious intent if you know what I mean. More of a cough than a fire. Beginning to think this is a real mystery. Don’t forget it ran fine after putting the engine back together, then all of sudden it doesn’t. Almost certainly more than one fault. Such is life (with TRs). JJC
PS still reading about bump steer
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Here’s the latest. Not the capacitor, because sparks are now there. I’m told by the experts that if there’s spark and petrol it’ll fire. Well there’s both and it doesn’t. I have tried another coil in case it was weak but no luck. Strangely flipping the contacts by hand gives big spark but turning over with starter and the spark seems weaker. No, it’s not the battery, tried a separate battery for the ignition.
On the other hand what else is there to do in January?
JJC
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Yes I’m beginning to wonder but I’ve tried two from MJ (aka DD) which I had lurking around and I would have thought they would have been ok. Can’t think anything could be destroying them? Gremlins? JJC
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Roger Is it TR Shop for TR6 door capping as well (guess who’s just damaged his) JJC
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Looks like it was vacuum advance pipe in an unsatisfactory (new) rubber fitting under the manifold. But I don’t know because the wretched thing won’t start now. No spark at all. But at least with no spark at all I should find the fault, no chance when it was intermittent. JJC
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Mick thanks will check that. JJC
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put the engine back together and it ran fine. Set timing mixture and balanced carbs all seemed right. But now it won’t run unless the choke is right out, pushing it in causes backfiring at both ends. Yes both ends. There also seems to be an intermittent ignition fault so there may be a few things going on. We have checked all the usual stuff so can anyone suggest what it might be? Obviously something has gone wrong since first flashing it up . JJC
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This topic pops up (or off) every now and then. Earlier this year it appeared again, in the thread was some Roger advice on the depth of the aperture at the front of the capping.
My Surrey soft top was always a pain, never fitted securely and was always a struggle. Taking Roger’s advice I made up a drift like a sawn off kitchen spatula with the correct depth marked on it. After a bit of easy fettling I could then fit the top on my own even with arthritic hands. Having now rebuilt the engine (another story) and tried it up the road the top stays securely in place at legal speeds.
Given that this problem turns up every now and again, presumably after a rebuild, it might be worth putting Roger’s advice available somewhere permanent.
JJC
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I have just repaired a thermostat housing on the 4 with JB weld. Worked very well but it wasn’t quite as bad as yours. It must be worth giving JB weld a try. JJC
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It’s out! But needed development of the special tool first. JJC
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Reckon Stuart is right, the back panel curves like a scoop. The ball must have bounced up and followed the curve into the chassis. Getting it out is not as easy as it sounds. JJC
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And it didn’t go in from the end and it won’t come out through the end
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Come on Stuart how on earth did it get in there? JJC
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Well we were playing ping pong obviously
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How did it get there and how do I get it out? JJC
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Chaps - as ever the Forum provides great help and entertainment at the same time.
I got the same answer from my expert friend about having to use the head and not using a bar. Pity because the head is very heavy at arms length. It’s already been on and off at least three times. Anyway, thanks Mick for the very clear explanation on tolerances. I’ll persevere and let you know what happens.
JJC
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Thanks, these posts would make an interesting article! I’ll read them several times and then stand in the garage and ponder. I am fortunate in having expert friends but your posts really are a huge help. The car is a million miles from competition, more like the pensioner’s Sainsbury’s run. But nevertheless I want it to be reliable, I need my groceries.
Yesterday we got quite good at taking the head on and off, only trapping fingers once. Just dawned on me I do have a straight bar drilled for the very purpose of clamping liners. I can use that to settle the liners for measurements rather than the head?
I will get a set of measurements in all orientations then think about it. Do the measurements all have to be within a thou or is a thou difference acceptable? I can see that 5225 wouldn’t be at all good but how about 5445 or similar? In other words what can I get away with? Especially if I find copper Fo8s
Many thanks
JJC
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Roger - we’ve been using the silver steel and feeler gauges. Unfortunately it’s not just the liners being different heights, it’s different heights across the liners. I’m trying the liners at all four orientations to see if they come closer. Done two so far. Intend to make sure the block is really really clean as that might be confusing things. But I suspect that’s just clutching at straws.
Annoying as I really want to see if my soft Surrey top stays on now!
JJC
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Correct antifreeze but probably not enough. Spent the day taking head on and off and liners in and out. Trying all orientations of liners for fit within tolerance as in posts above. JJC
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Mick. Well spotted! That’s a relief. Many thanks for the advice. JJC
Tr4 Dash top and crash pads
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Thanks one and all. I’ll get back to smartening up the 6 when I’ve brought the 4 back from the dead as in the other thread. JJC