JJC
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Posts posted by JJC
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Can you get the lids off? The glue doesn’t stick the lids? JJC
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Thanks Stuart. I’ll go for that JJC
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Lifting the hard top off for the Summer the rubber capping fell off yet again. It’s an annual event. Which glue would work properly? And would also work on the door capping which has come adrift over the winter? JJC
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I’ve just had a similar experience with the 4. After much trial and tribulation it turned out that the new spark plugs bought on the internet were rubbish. It’s all on a thread on the 4 / 4a Forum. JJC
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Many thanks for the link. Flasher unit arrived by return of post and works fine. In modern traffic having reliable indicators seems like a good idea. JJC
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Thanks Bob & Bob. Will order one. JJC
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yet another flasher unit has failed on the 2. Anyone know of a source of reliable units? I’m not planning to change polarity from standard. That makes it difficult to go for a modern electronic device. JJC
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3 hours ago, Richardtr3a said:
A long time ago I heard that the employees at NGK were stealing the boxes and making counterfeit plugs and selling them on the side
Good luck, Richard and B.
That’s a bit of a depressing thought.
Thinking again about the volts across the coil when cranking the starter is it so surprising they drop? If anyone has nothing to do measure the volts whilst cranking and see what they are. Should be the same for all the 4 pot engines. Thanks! JJC
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So these should be ok then. Put the new plugs in the 2 and it’s back running as it should. The 4 now runs but still has problems. I think I’m losing volts on the coil so will track that down. The other problem is that it sort of peters out. As if it forgets what it’s doing. That might be a bit more difficult to find. JJC
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Turns out it was the plugs. As a last gasp thought I took the plugs out of the 2 and used those. It fired up straight away. So that was two sets of new Champions that failed for whatever reason. Now I have to get all the bits back on the right cars and chuck the failed plugs in the bin.
Thanks for all your suggestions
JJC
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On 2/5/2019 at 4:10 PM, Quicksilver said:
And the TR2 is starting well with the parts of the TR4 ? or did you have now two cars that did not start?
Marcel
That’s what I said this morning. I’ve now got two cars unable to move under their own steam. On the bright side though there’s still one more. Not only that none of them are venturing out until all the salt has washed off the roads.
Today, the recalcitrant beast decided to speak. Not much, just one backfire, but more than it’s done for ages. I’ve put the complete distributor off the 2 onto the dead 4. And yes, just one backfire. I know it’s not much but I’ll take what I can get after all this time. Life after death, almost.
on the more technical side the volts on the coil are up around 11 volts. That implies a leak path in the original distributor from the 4. (That was down around 7).
I just might be getting closer. On the other hand it still doesn’t go.
JJC
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4 hours ago, Quicksilver said:
Coming late to, just read this tread,
but if you have a TR2 by hand, why did you change "things" one by one at the time and check of it works on the TR 2.
(just a thought)
Marcel.
Well yes, that’s pretty much what’s happened and I’m none the wiser. It won’t even fire on Easy Start now. JJC
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Ian thanks for your thoughts. I haven’t changed polarity. Thing is the engine was running fine, now it isn’t. Have just tried separate battery on the coil but it’s still dead. Plan now is to take the distributor off the 2 and see if that works. But I just don’t see that working because there is spark there so how could there be anything wrong with the distributor? I’m convinced there are two faults just coincidentally at the same time. JJC
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1 hour ago, Waldi said:
Have you measured your coil primary resistance. It should be 3 Ohm for your car, and then 7V is very low, I think too low.
Waldi
Waldi, yes I checked the resistance and it is down there at the odd few ohms. I reckon 7 volts is too low. Plan to have another look tomorrow. JJC
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8 hours ago, harrytr5 said:
Ballast coil?
Regards Harry
I didn’t think the 4 cylinder cars had ballast resistors. But today I measured the coil volts on the TR2 which does work. A good 10 volts when cranking so when I’ve put the carbs back on I’ll try a good battery powering the coil separately and see what happens JJC
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The 7 volts was between the live input to the coil and ground. When not operating the starter it’s 11 volts. But I’ve been reminded that we put a separate battery across the coil and it still didn’t fire. Might try that again. I would have thought 7 volts was a bit low.
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Waldi thanks. It doesn’t seem possible for the rotor arm to be out. The car was running fine and there doesn’t seem to be any way it could shift all on its own. Still a mystery. JJC
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16 hours ago, Tim Carr said:
Why not check the voltage at the coil with the ignition on? If the voltage is low leading to a dull spark the ignition switch may need a clean or replacement.
Tim
Just checked volts drop to 7 when cranking starter. Battery has had a bit of hammering so will check again after charging it. JJC
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5 hours ago, stuart said:
If your using new NGK plugs and they have got wet throw them in the bin and fit a new set, its a known problem with them that if they get wet in the first few times of using due to incorrect timing or over fuelling then it will kill them, after they have been run for a while then they are fine.
Stuart.
They are new plugs (second set!) but Champion. I think I tried the ones out of the 2 as well but have tried so many things I can’t remember what I have and haven’t done. JJC
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Just tried petrol straight into the manifold. Not even a splutter. A fair imitation of the Monty Python parrot. Suggests although there’s spark maybe it’s just to feeble? I’ve already tried another coil. I guess even a very weak spark would fire on Easy Start. JJC
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Well, it still won’t go. Carb diaphragms are fine, there’s petrol in the float chambers and it fires properly on Easy Start so probably not sparks. Haven’t found the gremlin yet. Latest suggestion is to sell it for spares. JJC
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4 hours ago, Chilliman said:
...And starting with number 1 in the correct place on the dizzy cap?
Interesting that. Yes, checked tdc is lined up with rotor arm by checking valves (just to make sure) but curiously the rotor arm isn’t quite where you might expect it to be. It looks a little advanced but that’s actually very difficult to judge and as it was running fine before I don’t think that’s it. After all the distributor is gear driven so it can’t jump a tooth on a timing belt. Anyway we twirled the distributor by hand with no result whatsoever. A real mystery. Fingers crossed when I get the carbs on the bench tomorrow a gremlin jumps out and beats it. JJC
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On 1/26/2019 at 2:55 PM, iain said:
Just re read this thread......did you have the HT leads on the wrong way round? 1342 anticlockwise.......only a suggestion, been there seen it got the T-shirt many years ago
! Symptoms were pretty much as you describe, occasionally tries to fire, farts and back fires like a goodun.
Iain
They’re correct. In fact everything seems to be correct but it just won’t go. Even has people who know what they’re doing stumped. Plan to look at carburettors on the bench next week. JJC
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Another straw clutched at and failed. Swapped distributor cap, leads and rotor arm into the 2 and it ran fine. So it’s not that. Annoyingly I dropped the ht lead clamp screw for the coil and can’t find it. Someone said smile things could be worse, I did, and they were.
Run out of ideas now. Maybe take up stamp collecting.
JJC
Liner Fo8 gasket replacement - engine in car
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
We did exactly this job last year. Micky’s instructions very helpful. I found having two sets of FO8 seals useful. You’re bound to wreck one or two before you get the liner heights set. Also found a flat and feeler gauges the best way to measure liner heights. Wellseal works on the Fo8 seals. Good luck. JJC