john.r.davies
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Posts posted by john.r.davies
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Another approach to removing that brass tap might be cooling.
Brass has twice the coefficient of expansion of cast iron, and you can get aerosol cans of stuff that will freeze domestic pipes so that you can repair leaks. (Never tried that - sounds iffy)
Run the engine to heat the block, spray this stuff at the tap to cool, shrink and loosen it.
John
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I'll be most interested in this.
After last years 10CR, when we ran into problems with the Binnington SuperSix at altitude (it was the highest road pass in Europe, d'Iseran), I learnt that Triumph did supply a high-altutude version of the metering unit. but not that it was non-vacuum. just differently adjusted. A contributor here stated that he just set the unit lean, for high, and avoided high speeds and loads when driving nearer the sea, but that seems to risk detonation on descent to me.
Looking forward to other opinions/expertise, please.
John
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More an observation, and an idea, than advice.
My TR6 engined Vitesse is a bit experimental (emphasis on the last two syllables), with a rear radiator and the bonnet air entry closed off as much as posisble. It's nice and cool in the driver's seat!
I think that the engine heat is blasted back into the cover by that large airflow, and leaks into the cockpit. Worse if the cover is not well sealed. Limit that flow and the heat finds an easier route out, under the car. Don't try this at home, folks! But a better seal of bulkhead to bell housing between the engine and gearbox cover compartments could be helpful. Perhaps some of that brush stuff that is used as under-door draught sealer??
John
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Andy,
Best way to tell is with an ignition timing strobe. That will show up changes in advance/retard very clearly, and testing with vacuum connected and not will show which is causing a problem.
You do block the vacuum tube for testing don't you? Not would give a massive air leak, thinning the mixture and making pinking more likely.
John
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Andy,
135-150 is quite a gap. Not drastic though.
Don't see why the plug should be the cause of high compression.
Try doing the same again, 'wet'.
Couple of squirts of oil in the cylinder and test compression. Can be done hot or cold.
If it comes up to 150, you have a ring problem.
If it stays the same, the valves are not seating, which could be seats, mistimed cam (but then you'ld have a few other probs) or rocker gaps too narrow or non-existent.
John
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George,
I'm sure you're on the right track, but keep looking for that air leak.
Some KwikStart sprayed around the manifold area may show up where it is - speed up when it's where the leak is.
John
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Just for fun:
Saw these 'aircraft' type switches (toggles with a flip-up cover) on the Stafford Vehicle Components stand at Silverstone.
They were labelled, "EOTW switches" - it stands for 'End Of The World'.
John
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I think that a PRV is an NRV!
Additional valves would be redundant.
JOhn
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Okay, Laurie, it was a shot in the dark and no one else had mentioned the simple stuff.
Two pumps? I know of one owner who has fitted two Lucas pumps in series, but to act as emergency alternative, two in parallel, each with a PRV and seperately switched, wouldn't interfere.
I use a Facet as a lifter pump for my Bosch, as that is reputed to be a poor 'sucker', however good a blower it is. That also allows me to fit a swirl pot, to avoid drop outs when the tank is relatively empty.
John
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All,
Just back from a day hill climbing at Barbon Manor.
Barbon is one of the best kept secrets in motorsport, deep in the Lune valley on the edga of the Pennine Moors, it must be one of the most rural motorsport venues in the UK. Some photos from one of last years meetings at http://www.imageacoustic.com/Barbon2005A.htm.
There were only two Triumphs at the 'B' meeting this year and the other was the TR3A of Christen Morten, of nearby Kirkby Lonsdale. Christen is doing some hills for fun, in a car that would win many concourses! It is immaculate.
Congratulations Christen, or your car, on using such a beauty for thr rough and tmble of hillclimb and for gaining second place in your group yesterday!
John
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I've been reading with interest some of the threads regarding fuel pumps & filters as I've been having some problems with my Lucas setup. Fuel is escaping from every possible orifice (the pump not me)! & it's now given up the ghost. My question being, is the Bosch pump/filter conversion worth the expense or should I go for another Lucas pump?
Definitely!
John
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Steve,
I have a very similar engine, even to the Pi prep by Malcolm.
After two or three turns, it fires up on three cylinders and then adds the others as they become 'available'.
To me it's an interesting foible, rather than an irritation.
Nice to feel so close to my engine that I can count the cylinders coming in!
I don't have any problem with hot starting, despite some radical mods that limit air circulation under the bonnet and have lead to cooling, not starting, problems.
A difference is that all the fuel lines from tank to MU, except pre-Bosch and an Aeroquip for flexibility just before the MU, are copper as recommended and supplied by Malcolm.
My explanation is that an injector line is not completely rigid, so that pressure must build up in them on starting until it reaches working pressure and the injector works. Small leak backs (I doubt if the injectors themselves leak) allow that pressure to fall towards atmospheric when the engine is not running. Which lines leak back will depend on the position of the MU rotor, so that random cylinders need some running before their injectors work again, while others work at once.
Pure conjecture - shoot me down, Gurus!
John
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Ron
I have both a CP block and a 2500S block here. They are both bare block's and only one hole (in either end) is drilled and tapped 3/8. All the other holes both front and back of the block are 5/16, so I think I'll follow Johns advice and modify an engine backplate.
John
Why didn't I think of that! It's so brilliantly simple.
Many thanks to you both.
Anybody got a spare engine backplate local to Farnham?
Regards
Tony
Tony,
Thank you!
But any piece of 1/4"/6mm plate, in steel or alloy of similar dimensions, will do. Use your original backplate as a pattern and drill the seven holes, then put four big ones any where outside the block. I just happened to have a back plate.
JOhn
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I use an engine stand, and fasten the engine to it via a rear engine plate.
Then the engine is held on by the seven bolts that normally hold them together, and the stand arms are easily adjusted to the bolt holes on the rim of the plate.
With this arrangement, fitting a crankshaft is easy.
What's impossible is the rear crankshaft oilseal housing.
That can be fitted quickly and easily with the engine on a crane/sling, or as I do, have an old plate with the centre cut out to give access to the housing.
Here's a pic with engine and backplate off the stand.
The plate is red so I remember not to leave it on!
John
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Laurie,
I hesitate to suggest the downright simple, but is the breather pipe on your tank blocked?
If there is a (relative) vacuum in the tank, the pump can't suck any more.
John
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It's weird that these 'nuts' still exist.
They are for plug leads that end as a flat metal strip with a hole. You undo the 'nut', put the hole over the threaded stud in the plug top and do the nut up tight. No insulation surrounding the plug top
This design must be at least ?seventy years old? I'm sure I've seen Austin Sevens with this arrangement.
Why does it persist? Is there any application, anywhere in the world, that still uses it?
John
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JohnC,
Suitably mollified.
But a simple thanks in the first place would have sufficed.
I can't offer any further comparisions.
That was my first RR trip - thoroughly worth the money, IMHO, for the benefit it did bring, nevertheless.
May your paddles always be double ended.
John the D
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Jon,
Will not be posting it up on Google though -.What's the problem - copyright? Whose copyright? Is it the circuit's?
John
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JohnC,
Am I invisible?
I offer you a comparision with a TR6 engine with a 6-3-1
I copy my RR report for you, even manipulating it in PhotoDraw to equalize the scales, so you can compare
And you ignore it?
Go paddle your own canoe.
John
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John, All,
I have what is basicly a TR6 engine in my Vitesse.
Raised compression (10.5), ported, Lucas Pi.
And a TT 6-3-1 exhaust manifold.
Here's the rolling road report.
I've adjusted the vertical and horizontal scales so they match those in JohnC's
Apart from a small dip just above, the power curve is almost flat from 2000rpm.
IMHO, an improvement on JohnC's, though a comparision between two engines will not have the power (!) of one tested with both systems.
John
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Cinnobar's allegation that SU's production of carbs in at least four sizes was "irrelevant" to the size of the engine.
John
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In that case, why did SU produce HSs in so many different sizes? 2,4,6,8?
Would you fit a 2 on your TR?
John
Educate me!
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Richard,
I need a special cap, because the filler is non-standard.
Air intakes to the rear radiator had to be where the filler was originally, so one of those flush fitting fillers (!) was ideal. This pic shows what I mean, not only the type of filler and position, but the fuel spray also! (Before the split pin)
John
PS I know - it's not a TR! But I'm here and I hope able to contribute as the car has a TR6 engine. J.
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Cinnobar,
I'd hate to try and impose my mere opinions on you, so you might like to troll over to the Ten Tenths site where an active thread is discussing choke/venturi size. See: http://www.ten-tenths.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82568
The opinion of many, not just one, is that too big a choke/venturi will be a disadvantage.
Education, education, education.
John
metal watch straps
in TR7/8 Forum
Posted
Oh, My God! A paint chip!
Hope you didn't scratch your nail varnish too!
John