T Rusty
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Posts posted by T Rusty
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But will DOT 5.1 eat the paint off where it drips? Paul
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Weather says +17 Grad here Sunday (about 65 F) first thing I’ll do is try the nylon washer idea. Thanks Don. Will look in to the longer studs too Stuart. Thanks, Paul
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What’s the difference between dot 5 and dot 5.1?
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My TR3A has a Moss tonneau. I put the LTDs on years ago. Where the two elbow flaps overlap I find the peg a bit too short. The top flap lifts off at anything over about 40 mph. Is there a longer peg availabie or did I do something wrong? Thanks, Paul
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In case the problem isn’t solved, when I got around to putting in the carpets on my 3A although new they must have been eight years sitting in the original box. They were poor quality and I never bothered to find out where they came from. The gearbox tunnel carpet didn’t fit well, it had bumps and wrinkles everywhere. I had to take the lid off to look at overdrive wiring, etc. several times and each time the carpet looked worse for wear. I drove for a season without carpet on the lid and then eventually put on the old insulation pad and covered it with a scrap piece of black vinyl. I trimmed it a bit and cut the hole for the gearshift, folded over the bits and ends and glued them and with heat of the gearbox caused the vinyl to fit better than the carpet ever did. For the vinyl I think I donated the equivalent of about £2. The foot carpets were poor quality too and after reading the above I’m going to switch to rubber mats. Also, I’m going to have a tailor (he did a good, inexpensive job, patching my tonneau cover) do a more professional job on the tunnel cover, in black vinyl. It’s dark down there anyway. I will again leave enough material on the sides so that the new rubber mats can hold the edges in place. I did the drive shaft tunnel the same way.
I’ve seen quite a few restored 3’s with perfect carpeting and I admire and take pictures but I’m not careful enough to maintain that perfection for more than a few weeks. Of rain or shine driving. Usually with the top down!
Paul
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Tom, I have no idea why I’ve never thought of that...age, it must be my age. And, if I had a bent rod I wouldn’t bother repairing it, I’d brag about it. Anyway, next visit to my garage I’ll follow your advice about the Loctite. Thanks
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This happens often on my TR3A. The handle unscrews without any help from me so the button can’t be fully depressed. When I screw it back on tightly it’s good for about four or five months. Am I the only one this happens to?
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David, The Moss catalog has (had?) good, clear, simple instructions. It works too. Paul
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Robert, I bought a '61 TR3A on the internet, used for Sunday drives during the summer only. I paid a lot more than you did. When it arrived it was junk. It had been in an accident, frame bent, etc. etc. My dream of driving it home from the port now makes me laugh. It didn't then. The first thing I did when I finally got it to my garage was cut the body in half to make a bit of space. It took about four years but I finally got it all together and through inspection. The main problem throughout was space to work. If you have the room to work plus all of those great parts, go for it. You will never regret it. In my book, you bought a dream. Wish I lived around the corner to stop by to encourage you from time to time. And it is the most fun-to-drive car I have ever owned.
Paul
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Bob, Thanks, that makes sense. Guess I'll start putting away money for the original. Paul
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While rearranging (pushing) my Tr3a around in my garage, my friend reached in and broke the "handle" off my new, expensive overdrive switch. I tried repairing, that didn't last. I replaced it with a £2 toggle switch which works fine. I had never driven the car with the expensive switch, is it more than just a switch?
Paul
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Thanks Bob. Nice colour. I'm probably two years away from painting so still have time to think about it. Thanks again, Paul
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I am trying to reach "Lebro"...My "new" 1957 Tr3,TS 16454 L, under the rust and various colors seems to be the same blue as yours. The official manufacturers certificate does not list the colour. Would you mind sharing the colour code with me? I haven't been able to find it. Thanks, Paul
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My alternators (3) have each failed after about a years use, a total of 5500 kilometers driven. On a well known suppliers website I saw a new alternator offered from Bosch, then that name disappeared, then the brand name Lucas with the note "new item, be the first to rate it" I ordered it. What arrived today looks exactly like the earlier ones. No manufacturers name, niether Bosch nor Lucas reference anywhere. Each alternator costs about £100 and takes about two hours to install. Now on the vendors site neither brand is mentioned. Anyone else have similiar experience? I have seen on the web alternators that look the same advertised with lifetime guarantee. Any comments or suggestions, thanks, Paul
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had a pro from around the corner stop in. He tested electrics for a half hour and declared my 1-2-3 distributor was defective. I ordered it Thursday, received it noon Friday, installed it and it still didn't work...I tested coil myself and can't get a spark out of it. This is an expensive hobby...will try to new coil in the morning.
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It's too early to disturb the neighbors testing the above responses but I should mention also that I have the 1-2-3 ignition system which so far has performed perfectly. But a loose wire connection is always possible.
When I topped up tank, three of the four pumps at the petrol station were marked "defective"...I tank there most times, never had a problem. Now I'm wondering if the fuel might have been contaminated. And, the owner, who is very seldom there was running the place himself...If one of the ladies is there this morning I'll try to find out if they had a fuel problem. It's an independent station, no brand, I use it because it's next door to my garage and they sell fresh donuts. Thanks again for tips. Paul
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Thanks for quick response Ian. The fuel tank is aluminum, about a year old so I hope it's okay. Will check fuel filter in the morning. Just drove car into driveway it started and ran perfectly. Thanks again. Ill let you know what tomorrow brings. Paul
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After another 70 kilometer trouble free drive, I parked car to tend to other business. When I started car an hour later and drove about 100 meters it slowed down with no accelerator response, sounded and acted as if it was starving for fuel backfired loudly two or three times,recovered and I drove another 20 kilometers without problem. An hour later it started perfectly but stalled after about fifty meters a dozen times, always acting as if it was starving for fuel but with loud backfire now and then. The only thing I did during the day was top up fuel tank. From an amateur, could vapour lock have caused this? Any other ideas please. I have an electric fuel pump. Nothing else I can think of that may be significant.Thanks, Paul
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Im a 1943 model with, I would guess, several hundred thousend miles covered and the last time I experienced a flat tyre was in 1962 or 1963.
I just finished (if a home restoration can ever be called finished) restoring my 1961 Tr3a. When I bought the car there was no spare tyre and in the few months since finishing it I have covered 2600 kilometers. I confess that until I paged through the forum tonight I never gave a second thought to not having a spare. I do have a can of squirt repair however.
I will now be looking for an original steel wheel for a 1961 Tr3a but in the meantime I'd be interested in knowing if I am the only guy around who doesn't get a flat tyre on a regular basis?
I had planned on taking my car on a drive tomorrow morning but now I'm worried about not having a spare tyre. I should have read a book.
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Greetings again, First, I by-passed the diode and ign light still did not work. For reasons I will never understand, the motor stopped running when the key was turned off when diode was not on-line so for now anyway the diode is not necessary.
The smoking end to my short ride was caused by a poor soldering job (mine).
During last few trips, ammeter shows negative charge only, battery has gone from near 13v to 12..3 today. Tomorrow I will have a pro test alternator. My test showed 11.8 today.
I have had auto-electrician (vw) in the past re the ignition light. After four hours of checking, he could not find problrm either. Also had a meister auto electrician install the four way warning blinker, as I couldn't get it to work. It turned out relay was defective. I'm off to another specialist tomorrow. Car sure runs well though.
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Greetings again, I have melted a yard or two wire over the years but have learned to read a wiring diagram. I put in the new wiring loom without problems. In the process I wired in a Kenlow fan, electric fuel pump, signal lights, headlights that had to be re-wired for the German technical inspection (I'm an American living in Germany...and when I was a late teenager in the states and my friends were nuts about the new 328 ci Chevy and Elvis Presley, I was nuts about all British two-seat sports cars and jazz and Frank Sinatra and my pride and joy was a 1953 MG TD and it brings a tear to my eye when I remember the fun I had with it and even when the starter fell out of the bottom and it was hanging by a cable and I had to remove it and for the next few weeks I either cranked it by hand or when I was at my second job I parked it on a slope and coasted down a bit, popped the clutch, and it started instantly and I did that until I could afford those long skinny bolts that held the starter in...or was there only one bolt? whatever...) and on the original tr3a subject, I installed and wired in electric seat heating. Top down, seats turned on, the car is an absolute joy to drive...I added fuses where I thought it necessary and, I think, safely and correctly and covered it all with shrink tubing.
The problems began with the installation of the alternator which complicated matters more because although it was new it was defective. After replacing it, when the ignition was turned off, the motor continued to run. I drew many wiring diagrams trying to dtermine where the "juice" was coming from but in the end just wired in a toggle switch so I could continue work on the car. On the internet (unfortunately not the forum) it seemed this was a common problem and that's where I learned that the solution was an anti-feedback diode or a rectifier diode I was told it was called. I bought the diode specified for less than two pounds and wired it in according to instructiins on the internet.
Since then, everything worked, without smoke or sparks, except the ignition warnng light. That remained on whenever the key was on.
After reading more on the forum I re-checked the wiring and found that I had in fact ran an earth wire from the warning lamp so I removed it.Then it did not light at all.
The sun was shining, we decided to trouble shoot the lamp later and went for the short ride. That's when the wire between ignition and lamp burned through.
It's raining which is giving me time to go back to the wiring diagram. It must be the diode that caused the problem?
Thanks for all info and comments and yes, I now disconnect battery when I leave my garage! Paul
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Hello Roger, Yes bulb is okay. Overnight I was thinking... I did put in an anti-feedback diode in the yellow wire because motor continued to run after turning off key. The diode solved that problem but could that be why the ignition warning light doesn'ts function? Paul
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Sun shining so took car for short (shorter than planned) ride. After about two miles, white stinky smoke from under dash. The connector from ignition switch to warning light burnt through. When we started car before ride ignition warning light did not come on. Ammeter during short ride showed plus the whole time. Restarted car and drove back to garage as if nothing happened. Battery tested at 12.76 volts after ride. Alternator charging at 12.5. I can't figure out why that light doesn't work, it's wired correctly and is( now) not grounded. Any ideas? Thanks , Paul
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Hi Roger, The problem now is the warning light does not come on at all. Am I correct in assuming with ignition switch turned on, motor not started, there should be 12v on ignition side only? Does the wire to alternator then act as earth to light bulb until alternator produces voltage? However it should work, the bulb doesn't light now at all. So I must have done something wrong. Again. Thanks for your thoughts on this. Paul
Color coded wire
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Can anyone recommend a source for meter lengths of the proper color coded wire used on the TR3s? The wiring on my 3A, unfortunately, is a patchwork of whatever was avail to make things work. Id like to correct that one day. In my spare time. Thanks, Paul