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T Rusty

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Everything posted by T Rusty

  1. As a TR3A driving, travel loving, bird watching amateur mechanic this post had it all. Mick, thanks for your very detailed answers. Lots of stuff in there I’ll re-read many times. Ewan let us know how things progress. Paul
  2. Hello Christian, I’m up near Frankfurt. A friend gave me this small poster in hoch Deutsche that even non-speakers can understand and which now hangs in my garage. And I have many, many bolts from TR3 A and TR3 needing the acid treatment. Paul
  3. Re hinges. The good news, the hinges have absolutely no wiggle. They are brass, look original and are the original Winchester Blue Colour. I’ve now redirected my work to finish removing the right floor. In reading about that job here on the forum I can gather all the info I need in about fifteen minutes. To find and remove about eight inches of factory tack welds takes an hour or more. See picture.
  4. Thanks Stuart, At least this time I’m working from above on the chassis without body rather than on my back trying to correct things from underneath. In spite of buying all the recommended bits and clamps I wound up making one. It’s not pretty but works better than what I bought. Opening the ends of the x would mean heating with a torch and hammering? Paul
  5. Stuart, in your picture the exhaust going through the X member. Did you do anything to keep it from rattling? I’ve got the big bore stainless on my 3A and I don’t think I’ve cured the rattle yet. I’m working on the TR3 now with same exhaust. It’ll have the A overdrive, looks like a very tight fit too.
  6. And the outer sill IS NOT in the right place. Paul
  7. Peter, that doesn’t scare me a bit... Actually I’m at the thinking and tinkering stage. Since the floors are nearly non-existent I did some measuring and eye-balling the new ones today and it looks like they will fit pretty well. I’m thinking of putting them in with pop-rivets to hold everything together for now, then tackling the sills. Uncovered enough of the right sill today to discover the original Winchester blue paint. And I agree, fitting the doors will involve a lot of head scratching and more visits to the forum. After the floors are in I’ll set the body back on the chassis, then star
  8. Keith, and all others...I took your advice and correctly bolted on the ugly right front wing first. I’m impressed, all bolt holes lined up. When I tightened up the bolts, the fit to door improved a lot. See the picture. Thanks to all for the advice, next visit to garage I’ll try the door with hinges. Suddenly the ugly wing doesn’t look so bad. All the holes lined up without the need of foul language and a hammer. Paul
  9. I’ve always been a big Healey fan too but the TR3 already stretches the budget (and strains the marriage).to the limit. Also what I like about the TR3, is most parts j can handle alone if no one is around to help. I’ve finished a US TR3A that was a rusty non original mess but I built it to drive, not so much to show. I drive it to car shows to admire restored Triumphs brought in on covered trailers.
  10. Yes, import out of U.S. The floors were original but nearly non-existent. I agree, I’ll give it a lot more thought before cutting anything. Ive tapped out the rusty bolt holes and will mount the wing property to get a better idea of how it all fits together. Thanks for comments. Paul
  11. I wire brushed the weld and although sloppy I think it’s original. I removed the hinges and the door fit curve to swage perfectly, front and back. From the front down to outer sill fit is good too but doesn’t come close to meeting the joint line. Are they supposed to meet? See picture. Bottom door gap is about an 1/8”. The rear part of door gap at the top is okay and meets the swage perfectly but going downward from the top to bottom the gap shrinks until the door overlaps the “B” post by about 3/16” at the bottom. There was a lot of poor work done on the rear part of the outer sill
  12. Thanks again Keith. Your info is noted. I now have two very ugly wings that fit poorly so are not much help. The right one overlapped the door by about 3/8”. Door gaps of 5mm noted. I have a bunch of photos I can’t find taken when the car arrived. When I find them i hope it will give a better idea of how things fit together then. The hinges are wiggly by the way. Paul
  13. Great info, I’m printing it out to absorb later. Thanks. Paul
  14. Pater, Unfortunately the original wings were taken away by a Meister for cosmetic work. He disappeared with them and people who followed up on it for me said he was not a good person and to forget the parts, they were probably traded for drugs. He seemed like a nice guy. A family man. We talked about his two children and what he planned to buy them for Christmas. Two years ago. Only the bonnet and two front wings fit into his car at the time. Such a trustworthy type if he had a trailer I’d have probably had him take the whole car. It is said live and learn. I’m 76 and I so far I have only live
  15. Car in need of total restoration. There is no evidence of prior accident damage that I can see. One picture shows inside of right front fender with lots of undercoating but no rust or damage. Both sides and the front are like this. On the right side, the door at the top front sticks out about 3/4” and won’t align even with pressure. The back and bottom easily close and align and door gaps could be made to look pretty good too. Both doors have had considerable work done and look finished. The workmanship looks good from the eye of an amateur. The door hinges look original but lo
  16. Miles A sent really good diagram and a picture. Much appreciated too. I’m now looking for someone to blame for the mess in case there is a witness around when I open the “lid”. Will see if I can locate the Tony Thomson info. The simpler, the better. Paul
  17. I’ve added electric fuel pump, electric fan, heated seats, cig lighter plug for the Navi, overdrive and it could be I have forgotten something. I don’t remember exactly how I hooked it all up. It didn’t look nice but it all works and I’m glad it’s hidden behind the dash. The car is now negative ground with alternator. I’m planning to open that can of worms and re-do it the way it should be done, with fuse box, fuses with proper values and wire gauge, etc. as necessary. Can anyone suggest a wiring diagram with fuse box, etc. Picture would be appreciated too, of course. Original appea
  18. Hello David, did you find someone competent to remove them? The o rings on my 3A tranny leak badly. I have an extra lid which I planned to re-do with new o rings and use. But in spite of all care the square screws sheared off. I used every tool I had and extractors I had to buy and every fluid I’ve heard of but the sheared off, hardened stubs, are still in there. I’d gladly send the lid to someone who could extract the broken screws. Thanks. Paul
  19. Ian, if you still have them I’d like to buy a set. I’ve tried the email address but it “bounced” I’ll try again but I do need a set and you can consider them sold! Thanks, Paul
  20. Peter, I bought my 3A from a guy in Missouri who provided description and photos. What arrived was similar to the car in your picture but with a bent chassis, lots of body putty and thick red paint. I was not a pleased customer but I have since restored the car top to bottom and I console myself even today by knowing the PO will one day roast in hell. Interesting picture though. Paul
  21. Not the best pics but late TR6 wheels with chrome discs from Moss. The 3A hubcaps would leave the outer rim holes part covered but I was willing to sacrifice that to cover the hub and lug nuts. To fit the caps I had planned to drill holes and thread in the studs pictured, made by a friend (free) but still haven’t got around to it. I went to wider rims and tyres because I thought they’d improve grip and also a friend following me was less than complimentary about the appearance of the skinny originals. The car was rust and body putty and junk when I bought it so originality was never a worry.
  22. I’ve never seen one. Any chance you could post a picture? My TR3 will, one day, be Winchester Blue but it will be some time before I need a blue suitcase for it...but I’d still like to see what it looks like. Paul
  23. Tom, I sent reply to your email address. Thanks, Paul
  24. I’m trying to find a source for Winchester blue paint for my ‘57 TR3. It’s PPG Ditzler 12013, ICI Mix 5944, Martin Senour 25430. I’m told this isn’t enough info and I should supply a sample. My car is mostly rust with a few patches of the original Colour on panels that can’t be sent in the post. Any help greatly appreciated. Paul
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