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T Rusty

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Posts posted by T Rusty

  1. I’m trying to find a source for Winchester blue paint for my ‘57 TR3. It’s PPG Ditzler 12013, ICI Mix 5944, Martin Senour 25430. I’m told this isn’t enough info and I should supply a sample. My car is mostly rust with a few patches of the original Colour on panels that can’t be sent in the post. Any help greatly appreciated. Paul 

  2. On my 3A, brakes all re-done with new stuff, brake fluid squirts out the pin hole on top of the reservoir. Not much, just enough to take the paint off part of the lid. On the one in the picture, from my TR3, PO must have had the same problem. He soldered the curly copper tube over the hole and I’m assuming that would prevent the little squirt from ruining the paint. Good point about clearing the bonnet. It does with about an inch to spare.

    On the TR3, It’s a long way off but I’m switching to dot5 when the time comes. So the curly copper tube will just be a conversation piece. By then I’ll have thought up a good lie or two about it too. Current status pics

    AFE63ED3-627F-4F2E-9A43-5500EC92F6D4.jpeg

    005B6867-4917-45B6-B927-E1934A07A314.jpeg

  3. Am not sure about vibration, but I think everything on my 3A was put together (by me) correctly but fluid has always “misted” out of the pin hole on the lid of the reservoir. Not a lot, just enough to ruin every bit of paint it touches. The attached photo is of the reservoir lid from the TR3 (I polished and painted it) I’m now working on. Not only does it look cool, when I get things together I’m hoping it will eliminate the reservoir “mist”. Paul F99D2621-13BE-4970-9026-9DC26E2C0FDF.thumb.jpeg.0a6452bb8c521fa48cfff696a318f28f.jpeg

  4. Ian, I keep myself enthused by finishing stuff before it’s necessary. I have two beautiful SU carbs with manifold and linkage all finished and screwed to my work bench and it could be two or three years before I need them (by then I might have to re-do some cork washers but I’ll worry about that then) but they’re nice to look at so I rebuilt them. Motor sitting in pieces though.

     

    At the stage your car is I’d strap in the fuel tank, with hose, cap, sender, etc. I’d wire rear lights and run the wiring harness in to the tub and leave it there til later. Then put in the hardboard wall that hides the tank and then the carpet. Then put on the hinges and handle and that rod that holds the lid up. When finished It’s a nice place to put stuff too, if you have a messy garage like I do.

  5. I met a guy at a car show about three years ago who had a small stand with nice brochures advertising chrome plating. According to his literature he has some vip customers in UK and the continent. I took a chance and sent off the frame (well packed) the stanchions, and four or five other little bits. He was a month late on the delivery date but the quality is excellent. I paid by bank transfer about £380. Everything came back well packed and in good condition.

     

    Www.galvaniksystems.com. I sent them a picture first and they provided a quote.

  6. Ralph, I’ve done it by the book with a friend using the proper seal and after a long days work it all seemed to come together. The following morning there were stress cracks. That made me very unhappy. After buying a new windscreen I followed the advice of a local old car specialist and used a tube of black silicone rather than the seal. I put it together, alone, in a couple hours. If anyone noticed it’s not the original seal they haven’t mentioned it to me.

     

    Cover the windscreen and chrome carefully with masking tape and newspaper. Cleaning up the excess silicone is a messy job. Hope it works for you, I’d never do the original seal again.

     

    Paul

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