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mike3md

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Posts posted by mike3md

  1. Rob,

    Sounds interesting. A few years ago I managed to fit a 3 speed a/c fan to replace Smiths feeble effort, by remaking the upper casing, but your solution sound much easier.

    Are the server fans reasonably heat and damp proof?

    Looking forward to more details.

    Mike

  2. If you have exhaust gases in the cooling water, it may be the sign of a cracked head (ask me how I know :angry:).

    Get the head pressure tested before any other work. If cracked, they can sometimes be repaired.

    To remove the head, if it sticks use wooden wedges, not steel!

    Mike

    PS You might try a bottle of K Seal before pulling the head. It sometimes cures the problem. M.

  3. Similar to Stuart's, except I used a proprietary fitting from car builder solutions and rather than fix to the alloy frame I folded the metal support to fit between the  rear glass seal and the backlight trim.

    Personally I don't think having one at number plate level qualifies as high level, especially on a TR, plus many of today's drivers are conditioned to reacting to that 3rd light..

    Mike

  4. Thanks everybody.

     I think I will stick to a standard bolt, but replace the worn one.

    Yes, I do have the plunger and spring, and plenty of grease. The large tapered spring under the cap (Item 11 on the Moss page )seems OK, but in any case new ones are nca.

    The propshaft is fairly new (30,000 miles), but I will get it checked and report back.

    Mike

  5. The long bolt passing through the gear lever cap (3.5"× 1/4 unf), part BH604281 in the Moss book, is worn along its length, and may be contributing to gear lever rattle/vibration.

    I think the standard replacement bolt is not especially hard, and will wear fairly quickly. Has anybody else had this issue, and maybe sourced a higher grade bolt?

    Thanks

     

    Mike

  6. I fitted a set of 1144 pads (NOT NOS!) which were bedded in as above. They were great, but annoyingly squealed at low speed in town.

     

    The shims were a bit corroded, so I bought and fitted a set of OE style anti squeal shims in stainless from TRE, together with a good smear of brake grease (Ceratec), and no problems since.

     

    Mike

  7. Tim,

     

    If you have a satnav (gps), it will give you accurate road speeds, and from that you should be able to calculate engine rpm, knowing the diff ratio and tyre sizes.

     

    It used be a look up on the mintylamb site, but that has dissappeared. I did keep a hard copy of the results based on 3.7 diff and 185x70 tyres, which gives 3000rpm in direct 4th as 60.8mph.

     

    Otherwise this may help: https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_speed_rpm.htm

     

    Mike

  8. I made one up a couple of years ago which has worked well, and avoids either sticking anything to the glass or lining (which can drop off in the heat), and greatly minimises light spill at night. The fixing requires no drilling, using the rubber glass seal. The wires are also tucked under the seal.

     

    It was described in the NLG newsletter at the time. PM me if you want a copy of the article.

     

    Mike

  9. Here is the Programme: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/uploads/2018/06/22/Programme-PitP.pdf

     

    From Page 12:

     

    "2. Barbecues and dedicated fire pits can be used PROVIDING they are on legs and not on the grass. Disposable barbecues are strictly forbidden due to the fire risk and site security will immediately confiscate any found and extinguish them.

     

    3. Small gas/gas stoves are fine providing they are not on the ground, but large propane cylinders are not allowed.

     

    4. No LPG or Gas Barbecues allowed on site."

  10. I think Willie has to confirm what sort of clutch he has - original (up to TR4) coil spring type, or later (TR4A on) diaphragm spring type. They do not use the same type of release bearing.

     

    The face of the earlier release bearing is flat.See wsm p 2.101 (TR4) and p 2.109 (TR4A)

     

    Mike

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