[JB Weld?]

Final update

Following Rogers advice I found a nice man who has successfully welded the pieces together and has made a fine job.

Thanks for everyones input

Paul

[JB Weld?]

Hi Guys

Thanks very much for your responses

Roger, if I was to get it welded would I have to dismantle the o/d in case the heat generated damages any seals etc?

[JB Weld?]

I've now taken some photos of the broken piece and casing

[JB Weld?]

Whilst trying to encourage the overdrive unit back on to the gearbox mainshaft after a gbox rebuild I have broken off a piece of the overdrive casing that contains one of the studs. I reaLLY DON'T WANT TO HAVE TO REBUILD THE OVERDRIVE AND WHILST LOOKING FOR SOLUTIONS I CAME ACROSS THIS

http://jbweld.net/index.php

HAS ANYONE ANY EXPERIENCE OF IT OR ANY OTHER SOLUTIONS FOR REATTACHING THE BROKEN PIECE.

[Dodgy Second Gear]

Greetings all

Getting CT 24209 to stay in second gear when not under load has been an ongoing problem for a while. Whilst returning from SW France in Sept an investigation of a horrible grinding noise showed that the rear gearbox mount had perished presumbaly knocking the propshaft out of line and destroying the bearings at the diff end.

Once home after repacing mount and bearings I took off the gearbox top cover to see if there was anything obvious, though not really knowing what I was looking for.

Any way put her all back together and now she doesn't want to go into 2nd gear at all.

1) any ideas of what might be going on

2) anybody know a good gearbox man in the brighton area

Thanks

[She wont idle under 1200 rpm]

Final Update

 

Carbs have no bushes so I'm off to see the nice man at Southern Carbs

Paul

[She wont idle under 1200 rpm]

Thanks everyone for your input I think we have now found the problem.

 

Ivor - I never knew becoming immortal could be done at such a low cost. I may well do it.

 

Steve - No the carbs are basically setting their own idle by sucking air through the spindle opening

 

Geoff - I've spoken to a very nice man at Southern Carbs who will machine me some bushes if required

 

Badfrog - Carbs will be on dining table tonight so I will let you know what I find

 

Once again thanks for everyones help

 

Paul

[She wont idle under 1200 rpm]

I am a mere mortal and have no way of measuring my co2

Any other suggestions?

[window winder mechanism]

Thanks Guy

I can see how this link helps with the window wound down. However when Mrs R is joining me she likes the windows up and I'm not sure the remedy in the link you provided would apply here, I may be wrong and would like to know any other remedies to what I'm sure is a commopn problem.

[window winder mechanism]

Many thanks Guy

Looks like just the job

Paul

[window winder mechanism]

Finally decided to do something about the rattles coming from the passenger door when I go over any bumps/potholes (quite frequently on todays roads). Having removed the glass and winder mechanism the rattles are definatley less.

Has anyone any experience of new winder mechanisms in terms of rattles or sould I try to introduce some kind of shims to the existing?

[She wont idle under 1200 rpm]

Furter Update

Possible cause

Thanks for all the advice.

I can confirm that sucking the advance/retard pipe from bottom of the carb moves the plate in the distributor, so all ok

Dashpots have correct springs and no splits in diaphragms, so all ok

No leaks around manifold gasket and new gasket fitted

Pistons rise smoothly and drop with a ping onto the bridge

HOWEVER spraying carb cleaner onto the inner exit point of the butterfly spindles of each carb drops the revs right down. This says to me that air is being sucked in through these points, is this possible? If this is the case is there a seal inside the carb body that may need replacing?

[She wont idle under 1200 rpm]

Update 2

Had a pleasant drive to the new forest this w/e and guess what. Saturday eve revs went up to 1500 at idle. I am now contemplating washing up liquid in the dashpots as it the most viscous thing I can think of. Any views on washing up liquid or suggestions for oil thicker than 20w/50?

[She wont idle under 1200 rpm]

UPDATE

Having taken the linkage out of the equation I changed the dash pot oil for 20/50 engine oil. This seems to have done the trick. However it begs the question, What is the reccomendeed oil for the dashpots

Paul

[She wont idle under 1200 rpm]

Thanks Stuart

I will check all tonight and report back

Paul

[She wont idle under 1200 rpm]

Check your diaphragms for any splits/damage and make sure that the springs on each end of the main throttle bar where it exits the front of the front carb and the rear of the rear carb are actually doing there job. Also check that the starter bar springs are also doing the same.

Check also that the plug under the rear carb to blank the advance mechanism port is correctly seated and there is no hole in the advance vacuum tube from the front carb.

Stuart.

 

[She wont idle under 1200 rpm]

Greetings all

This has got me compleley stumped.

CT 24290 is running strombergs with K & N filters. Since refitting the carbs after clearing evereything out to spay the engine bay I have not been able to get a satisfactory idle. After having set an aceptable 800/850 rpm with the idle screw and balacing the carbs everything seems fine. As soon as the revs are raised either uusing the pedal or moving the linkage in the engine bay the idle rests at 1200+ rpm, with the stops on the spindle not touching the idle screws, when driving a blip on the gas sometimes takes the revs down 800. With the engine turned off the stops touch the idle screws every time and if the engine is turned off from the 1200 idle I can see the stops moving onto the screws i.e. engine off: stops on screws engine on: stops dont meet screws.

I've lubed all the linkage, topped up the dash pots and all the springs are doing their jobs. Now I'm out of ideas.

HELPPPPPPPPPPPP

[Rear Wheel play]

MOT for CT 24209 is due next week so as I went round checking everything I noticed quite a lot of play in the n/s rear wheel. Having spent the morning reading various posts I am still not sure how difficult job it would be to replace the rear bearings if indeed this is what is needed.

Advice please on what my next step should be?

[Wiper Motor Finnish]

The body of the motor was finished in a black crinkle paint.

The motor end plates and wheel drive casing were unpainted.

 

If you check eBay for wiper motors, you should get a photo

of either an original one or one that has been re-painted to

original spec.

 

AlanR

 

 

Thanks Alan

[Wiper Motor Finnish]

I've just stripped out the engine bay of my TR4 for a clean up and repaint. When it is time to refit everything I want to freshen up the wiper motor.

My questions is what kind of finnish would it have had originally. It doesn't appear to have been painted and now is a rusty brown colour.

Any thoughts?

[Overdrive Relay Testing]

Ian

Thanks very much that all makes sense.

I will report back

Paul

[Overdrive Relay Testing]

Thanks Ian & Smokey

I swotted up from the Technicalities CD earlier but it didn't seem to mention testing of the relay

"live feed to solenoid operates correctly" - means having taken the solenoid off, earthed the case against -ve battery terminal and touched the wire to the +ve battery the plunger rises and on disconection falls, this I believe is what should happen. I have continuity from the solenoid wire to the relay and the steering wheel stalk switch is operating ok, which seems to indicate the relay but I would like to make sure that is at fault.

Also if it is at fault where does one pick up a reliable replacement?

Paul

[Overdrive Relay Testing]

Hi All

Having read many posts on the subject of overdrives I am of the opinion that my relay may not be working. Live feed to solenoid operates correctly and de energise works, however the plunger doesn't rise on being energised. Is there a definative test that I can do to the relay to eliminate as the problem.

Thanks in advance

Paul

[What's it For]

Hi All

Didn't realise that my little question would draw so many replies. So thanks to all who did.

I have another question relating to the same part

The reason for getting involved with lump of iron was because the exhaust support bracket was loose and the exhaust was blowing slightly. Having now fitted an exhaust clamp the lump of iron will now not sit in a vertical plane (no room)

So the next debate is whether it is better to have it fixed albeit slightly askew of centre or to leave it off.

Gentlemen start your engines.

Paul

[What's it For]

Hi All

I seem to have a large lump of iron attached to the rear of my gearbox (see photo). It looks like it should be there but what does it do and can I remove it?

The car has overdrive if this makes any difference.

Thanks

Paul