Jump to content

PaulR

Registered User
  • Content Count

    93
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by PaulR

  1. Update Huge Thx to David Ferry who very kindly was able to send me the front end of a wing that a local welder did a fine job of attaching. Now just need to do some fettling.
  2. As the rest of the wing is in good shape I like David's idea of cutting the front off an existing wing Dave I hope that I have sent you a message through the forum, although I have never one that before so hope you get it
  3. The current situation provides an opportunity to re-visit my 14 year old fibreglass & filler repair to the front of my o/s front wing. It held up really well & I had forgotten how bad the wing was - see photos. Now wanting to do a repair in metal rather than filler. Does anyone make a repair panel for this area & if not has anyone got any suggestions Many Thx in advance Paul
  4. Having got an alternator & thin belt conversion my ammeter is redundant. I would like to convert it into a clock keeping the Jaeger logo to match. Has anyone done this or got any suggestions? I'm happy to scan & print the logo on a black background but not sure where top find a mechanism. Thx
  5. I recently posted ( 3 weeks ago) how the ballast resistor on my Lumenition ignition had failed & I replaced the coil with a Lucas gold one and did away with the resistor All was fine until today, when she died. After a bit of diagnostics the lucas coil has failed (It wasn't that old). I'm now thinking that I may have too high an output form the alternator that has burnt out the ballast resistor and now a perfectly good coil. Any suggestions as to my next step please.
  6. Thx Steve That's what I was hoping to hear Paul
  7. Hi A very nice AA man got me on my way again today by diagnosing that the 1.5 ohm ballast resistor on my magnatronic ignition had failed. I had a spare lucas coil which we fitted, by passing the resistor and all seems fine. I was never a fan of the bloody great resistor anyway so am wondering if anyone has any views on running on the current setup.
  8. As Stuart suggested it was a stuck o/s calliper Managed to free it off but the question is why would it decide to stick halfway through a journey Hmmmmmmmmmmmm!!!!
  9. I'm with Roger on his logic but can't think how changing the rear shoes would affect the front brakes I also agree with Stuart that a seized o/s calliper would explain the results but what would cause a calliper to seize that had been performing perfectly?
  10. Always had quite a lot of travel in the brake pedal so recently replaced the rear shoes. This seemed to make things much better Was out for a run in the sun yesterday when the brake pedal became very firm with very little travel and a huge pull to left when applied. With more pressure applied n/s front would lock up completely. Clearly something has affected the brake balance fairly majorly I was planning on taking the car to our agm tomorrow so only have tonight to sort it. Can anyone give me any suggestions as to where to start Thx Paul
  11. Hi Kevin Please can you tell me how to book Rgds Paul
  12. Hi Quite keen to attend the track day at castle coombe. Are there any places left and if so how do I book I've been to the tr register shop but can't find any mention of it Paul
  13. In case anyone experiences the same problems it was all due to end float. None between 2nd & 3rd bushes and loads on the 1st gear bush At least thats what I hope as haven't driven her yet
  14. PaulR

    gearbox again

    Problem found Quite obvious after the event I had managed to bend the end of the output shaft when hitting it with a hammer to remove the rear gbox case bearing Lesson learned
  15. PaulR

    gearbox again

    Hi Guys Thx for the responses I haven't rebuilt the O/D and it was fine before reassembly I guess off it comes again Anyone got any suggestions for keeping the 2 parts of the O/D that the Gbox output shaft slides into aligned as it was a real pig Thx Paul
  16. Just reassembled the gbox with all the new bits and all seemed to go well, however trying to turn the flange on the end of the overdrive ( that connects to the propshaft) by hand is almost impossible. Is this normal Attaching a power drill to the clutch end of the input shaft and sliding the reverse gear into mesh enables the output flange to turn as expected, so all seems to work, I'm just concerned about the amount of effort to turn it by hand Opinions please Paul
  17. Hi All Just about to begin the rebuilding of my '64 TR4 Overdrive Gearbox and want to replace the rear seal which I believe to be at the end of the O/D casing My question is whether I have to dismantle the O/D to do this or if I can prise it out without dismantling. The O/D works perfectly and so I am reluctant to dismantle. Any thoughts please Paul
  18. Thanks all for the prompt responses especially Graeme's link which I will pour over tonight Rgds Paul
  19. 2-3 years ago I had a problem with my 64 TR4 jumping out of second gear when not under load. After reading the forum and dismantling the Gbox I found the second gear 'Top Hat' bush was sheared. This was duly replaced and all was well with the world. Until recently. Same problem has re-occured. Just had the box out and low and behold 'Top Hat' bush has sheared again. Now thinking that sheared bush was effect rather than cause. All the rest of the innards appear fine, no missing teeth or wear marks. However the rear gearbox mount has done its usual trick and disintegrated, could this be
  20. New switch fitted problem gone Bloody frustrating though Thanks for all advice PAul
  21. Greetings I have a very puzzling problem with a lack of brake lights. The brake light switch is located in the union of the brake pipes. The supply side has over 12V on the voltmeter and without any bulbs fitted pressing the brake pedal produces over 12v on the other side of the switch and indeed at the bulb holder. However inserting a bulb reduces the voltage on the output side of the switch to 0.02. Connecting a 12v supply direct from the battery to the output side of the switch lights the bulbs indicating that there isn't a problem with the wiring from the switch to the bulbs. I'm susp
  22. HI All A bit pedantic I know but might as well get it right ct 24209 1964 New white TR4 currently has black struts supporting the front overiders, I'm about top redo them and just wondered if black or body colour would have been original Thx paul
  23. PaulR

    Wet Plugs

    Had a decent run out last night and although she performed very well I felt something wasn't quite right Whipped the plugs out this morning and found 1 & 3 to be a lovely light brown colour However 2 & 4 would probably be the same colour if they weren't wet with what smells like petol. The car has been standing over night and I would have expected the engine heat when cooling down would have removed any dampness in there 1 & 2 or 3 & 4 and I would suspect something with the carbs but not 1 &3 Any ideas? Paul
  24. Definatley down to engage
  25. Hi Sorry for not getting back sooner but today was the Goodwood Revival I've taken a picture that hopefully is attached
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.