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Rod1883

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Posts posted by Rod1883

  1. Had a very pleasant few days on the Coast to Coast run organised by Paul Hogan this last week.

    Setting off from Portchester Castle on Monday morning to a great hotel in Usk, via a lunchtime stop at a canal side pub and Avebury where we spent a good couple of hours around the stones, in the little museum and then in the manor gardens.

    Tuesday saw us heading off from Usk to a spectacular hotel on the Anglesey side of the Menai strait, via an early lunch stop and then Portmeirion.

    We headed toward home on Wednesday stopping overnight at the Fleece Inn near Evesham and then on Thursday a nice hour and a half or so at Hidcote Manor Gardens before the last leg home. In total we did a little over 700 miles in the 4 days.

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  2. I didn't know that you were a son of Somerset Ian. It is the county that I still call home, having grown up on the Mendip hills and around the Chew Valley in a small village called East Harptree, despite not having lived there for about 40 years now.

  3. Glad to hear you are on the mend Richard, and you too Sue after your Op. Hopefully you will all be able to make it to Malvern in August.

    Ian - I worked at the Chewton Mendip Cheese Dairy during a couple of holiday periods from Uni back in the late 70's/early 80's. It was part of the Waldegrave family estate. A few years ago at the Bath Christmas market we were taking to the people that run the Cheddar cheese dairy that uses the caves in Cheddar for storage and they told me that they had bought all the Chewton equipment for their dairy....

  4. My Goodness Richard - wishing you a full and speedy recovery.

    There are lots of fields with footpaths around here that have cattle in them - most pretty docile, but some a little over inquisitive, especially the young steers/bullocks that are often put to grass in groups of four to eight and can act like a group of teenage boys.

    I've not had a major issue personally - I've put that down to growing up in rural Somerset and working on a number of farms in my youth. I've always found that being confident and making a bit of noise is enough to deter - but your experience Richard may cause me to review....

    Did the Cow have a calf near?

    Edit - regarding dogs on leads, I have read in the past that if cattle are ultra aggressive then it is safer for the owner to let the dogs go.....

  5. Thanks Bob.

    Had a very pleasant coffee and Sausage roll at the Pulborough RSPB Reserve this morning (Diana volunteers there on visitor reception on Monday's and Friday's).

    This afternoon I've been tinkering with the TR, and now we're about to have a barbecue with some friends.

    A pleasant day....

  6. Thanks Ralph.

    When I say I can't see the top of the plates - it is the way the filling hole is designed. The battery isn't the sealed for life type, there are the usual screw type cell caps to remove for filling. The issue is that in each cell is a plastic covering over the plates with a side gap for filling - makes it difficult to see the electrolyte level until it seems it is filled too high......

     

    ..and thanks again Bob. Will check that. I also have a spare control box that I can check and try.

  7. Thanks Rob.

    Yes - just covering the top of the plates was what I was always taught and understood. The difficulty with the battery on the midget is that the plates aren't visible - they have a plastic cover with a side gap to allow the electrolyte to be topped up. I couldn't see the level so topped up to just above this plate and so it is very likely that I have caused my problem doing this and I just need to remove electrolyte until the cover is just uncovered - not a good design.

  8. I'm getting a bit of acid bubbling out of the battery cell caps on our MG Midget. The set up is pretty similar to the TR2 - positive earth, a dynamo and the same control box/voltage regulator - part number 3H1835.

    It is possible I've slightly overfilled the cells and that is the problem, but I'd like to check that the battery isn't being overcharged in case that is the cause. I believe all I need to do is put a voltmeter onto the battery and check the reading when the engine is running and charging. What voltage levels should I be looking for?

    I ought to check the TR voltages too as I'm not sure the battery charges very well...

    Thanks

  9. I'm about to fit an isolator switch in a similar fashion to that done by Bob above. The main difference is that the '2' is still Positive earth and so I'll be sourcing new insulated cables to run from the positive battery post to the switch, and from the switch to the body connection where the existing braid is currently attached. Looking on line there appears to be a wide range of cable amp rating to choose from. What would the rating need to be?

  10. Hello Rob

    Welcome. I'm just up the road from you in Bury. I often use a chap called Colin Cripps who is based in Storrington for jobs that I don't have the tools or expertise (or inclination) for. Colin operates a mobile service as well as at his premises at Marley Way Garage in Storrington. His telephone number is 01903 742430.

    Rod

     

  11. I popped over to Southern Carburetters at Crawley on Thursday and picked up new needle valves and seats, plus float chamber lid gaskets and new fibre washers for the connecting banjo's. Very impressed with the set up and knowledge there.

    All fitted , but due to our drive being dug up mid replacement I haven't yet been able to road test.

    Whilst I was at Southern Carburettors I had a chat with Roy there who was very helpful and I picked up new mixture needle adjusting screws with incorporated o-ring and new star washers (plus new diaphragms) for the leaking air valve damper tubes on the Stag (see my post in General technical)

  12. The job is done, although I haven't been able to take the car for a run since to check all works as our drive is currently dug up and being replaced! It'll be another week.

    A buckeye triumph pdf - https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c6dec53b10f25d4edf0b3f7/t/5d0191191376fd00017521ed/1560383774528/TR250_TR6+Carbs+Part+II.pdf  - and some other stuff found via web searches were all very useful, but probably the best piece of advice was on a MG forum that provided a great tip for removing the star washer -  https://www.mgexp.com/article/alternative-zenith-carb-damper-o-ring.233
    Essentially it is to knock the adjusting screw assembly and washer up the tube just enough to then be able to get a small hooked piece of wire around the washer and flip it. I did this on both carbs and the washer just fell out. Replacement is similar - drop the washer in, shake the air valve a little to get the washer more or less in the correct orientation, and then tap home. I couldn't find a suitable wooden dowel for the job - but an unsharpened pencil (i.e. still squared off at both ends) did the job.
    I purchased new needle adjusting screws and incorporated o-ring from Southern Carburetters in Crawley, rather than trying to fit a new o-ring on the old screw. The advice from Roy at SC in Crawley was that the screws are often "mullered" in getting them out - although mine was fine using the above technique to remove it.

    Hopefully this might help anyone else with a similar issue....

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