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Rod1883

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Posts posted by Rod1883

  3. Radiator repairs

    in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum

    Posted · Edited by Rod1883

    20 hours ago, roy53 said:

    After getting several quotes on re core i found the new from TR shop to be £100 cheaper.

    Roy

    I made that mistake (not a TR Shop unit I hasten to add) - the joint between the long neck and the top tank didn't last at all and the whole repro unit is far more flimsy it seems to me than an original. I ended up getting an old original unit re-cored (no starter hole) at Guildford Radiators -a much better solution for a similar cost imho.

  7. Good Bye

    in Social Scene

    Posted

    Please reconsider Roger - your contributions both technical and non are a lifeblood of this forum.

    Alec's Inn was established - imho - as an area where sometimes controversial topics could be discussed, so again - imho - we should be able to have the channel debate there - just as we would down our local Inn.

  8. CORONAVIRUS

    in Social Scene

    Posted

    10 hours ago, boxofbits said:

    So is this pointing to an effect of the Coronavirus vaccine, especially where high levels of exertion are apparent.

    What will happen at future events like the London Marathon for instance if it transpires there is a link between prolonged exertion and the Covid vaccine? 

    ...or could it be the result of previous exposure to the virus itself? A lot more scientific investigation required to understand this virus and all its variants/mutations. We seem to be destined to live with this and all the uncertainty for some time to come. In the meantime we're double (AZ) vaccinated since late May, on 1000iu VitD3 per day - soon to raise to 2000iu from beginning of December for a couple of months or so....

  9. CO2 monitor

    in Social Scene

    Posted

    The Fireangel device as pictured in Rob's post above is what we have freestanding, in our living room, to monitor the CO level as we have a small log burner. Our chimney sweep checks that we have this in place and that the test button works as part of his assessment and includes this on the certificate. The Fireangel device is, imho, therefore fine for a domestic setting - currently £23 from B&Q

  10. CO2 monitor

    in Social Scene

    Posted · Edited by Rod1883

    We have exactly the one shown by Rob. Not bought from Amazon as I won't buy from that tax avoiding and high street/bricks and mortar retailer destroying entity. I think I got ours from Dyas when they had it on offer.

    B&Q have that one showing on their website at £23, link: - https://www.diy.com/departments/fireangel-co-9dq-wireless-carbon-monoxide-alarm-with-7-year-battery/193503_BQ.prd   

    and a simpler one at £20, link: - https://www.diy.com/departments/fireangel-co-7xq-wireless-carbon-monoxide-alarm-with-7-year-battery/261146_BQ.prd

    I see that Homebase also have the simpler version at £18: https://www.homebase.co.uk/fireangel-carbon-monoxide-alarm/12814431.html

  16. Cylinder Head Studs

    in TR4/4A Forum

    Posted

    I've been looking at this issue as I have been putting the head back on the Midget. The problem is that there are as many different opinions out there as there are forums and posters!

    After advice here and from MG forums, and talking to a very good engine builder I know I decided that a very light oil of the end threads on both the UNC end of the stud and UNF nut was the way to go and, because 5 of the 9 studs (the short ones) on an A series engine go into threaded holes that go right into the water channels and as recommended by the engine builder, I also used a small amount of sealant around a couple of the top threads on each of those 5 studs. He also said that the stud should be lightly torqued into the block and not be only finger tight, so I did them to ~8-10 lb ft as I felt the 15-20 lb ft he recommended was too much. I then torqued the head nuts to 40 lb ft as per the book. I've still to refit the carbs and before that whilst the manifold connection is accessible, I'm going to fit a new stainless exhaust. Hopefully all will be OK when I do run the engine.....

  18. What's happening to sidescreen TR sales?

    in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum

    Posted

    I've been saying this for a while - as time goes on then the older classics will become less desirable as the effect of Ralph's last sentence kicks in. We all hankered after the cars that we saw around as youngsters, or perhaps that our Fathers and older relations drove. For me, it was the influence of my cousin who is 10 years older than me - he and his friends had a TR2 and a couple of 3A's and that was what got me interested.

    Some cars will remain sought after, such as the E type, but as time moves on others will fall away I'm convinced - the process being driven by demographics, the demise of petrol, etc etc 

  19. Dove purchase

    in TR4/4A Forum

    Posted · Edited by Rod1883

    1 hour ago, ianc said:

    Wayne should have mentioned TR Action 330, with its super cover shot, and the 9-page article inside with yet more photos.

    Good to know that there was once a small Wayne!  And his dad, Gary, the tall, bearded fellow, was at Malvern for the recent IWE.

    Ian Cornish

    ...as was the car.

    We had the pleasure of staying in the same B&B as Wayne's Mum and Dad and the car. Spent a very pleasant hour or so with them at the pub next door to the B&B.

    Wayne is the image of his Father - Diana thought Wayne had aged somewhat when we first met Gary that weekend, not sure if he was flattered or Wayne offended!

  20. Midget Head Gasket failure

    in General TR Technical

    Posted · Edited by Rod1883

    Thanks Stuart, ordered.

    Chris - it's a very early 948cc A series engined car.

    I've sorted out which side up the HG goes. As I posted above I thought the gasket was copper both sides - the reason being it comes in a nice sealed, fairly thick orange transparent plastic bag which I hadn't opened to avoid risk of damage until ready to do the job (anyone ahead of me yet?). Anyway having now managed to contact the supplier (after a few days trying) they told me that the copper side is uppermost and the silver/steel side is the bottom - this confused me until I opened the bag....... the orange made both sides look copper - :lol:

  23. Midget Head Gasket failure

    in General TR Technical

    Posted

    Thanks for the reply Stuart.

    I took the head around to a friend who has a good flat plate and dial gauge set up and we determined that the head itself, having only done circa 7k miles since a full engine rebuild ~11 years ago that included a skim, is flat, and the issue is/was a raised section of deposited copper ~3mm wide and about 1.5 thou high between cylinders 1 and 2.

    I then went to our local garage where one of the mechanics has rebuilt sprites, midgets and MGB's over the years. Looking at the head his advice was to very carefully use fine emery, lubricated with duck oil/wd40, to remove that raised section. I have done that today and all looks pretty good. I now need to do the same on the block which has a similar deposit of copper.

    I need to get a really good straight edge to check the block - I have a long spirit level which I think would do it, but if I can find something better I will. Then it is refitting.

    I have a few more questions if anyone can help:

    How clean does the head and block need to be? I've used Carb cleaner to remove a lot of carbon deposit but there are still dark areas - presumably it doesn't need to be spotless as much of the deposit is within the still visible machining marks on the head.

    I have sourced a couple (in case I mess up one) of copper (both sides) head gaskets but they don't have 'Front' or 'Top' marked on them. On one side the steel sealing rings for the combustion chambers are visible - would I be right to think tat this would be the upper/top/head side?

    One last question - should I use any additional gasket sealant, or fit dry? If a sealant, what would be the recommendation?

    Rod

  24. Midget Head Gasket failure

    in General TR Technical

    Posted

    As some will have seen on the Malvern photo's thread, the Midget had to be recovered from just East of Tewksbury to home in West Sussex- it took the RAC 26.5 hours and three separate transport truck, but that's another story!

    The head is now off and the gasket has been completely burnt away between cylinders 1 and 2 - creating a 3-4mm gap in the gasket. Some of the copper from the gasket appears to have 'welded' itself to the cylinder head - I need to have a better look at the block to see if something similar has happened there.

    Has anyone any thoughts or advice on how best to clean the head (and the block) surface and to get this copper off without scratching/damaging the head (and block).

    Thanks

    Rod

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