[Replacing Wheel Studs]

Hello everyone,

More advice sought......

 

I've replaced the rear axle on my '2 with a girling unit, but it seems that the wheel studs are the short variety, or have been shortened, for wires.

I wish to refit my original steel wheels, so I think that I need to replace the rear axle wheel studs with the longer steel wheel versions.

 

From the Moss catalogue, the longer steel wheel studs are the same on both the early (drum braked) car front hub and on the rear hubs for both lockheed and Girling axles (Moss catalogue item 100869).

 

I have read conflicting information about the removal of wheel studs - some indicating that the studs are splined and so need to be pressed/hammered out, with alternative advice saying that they unscrew in some way.

 

Could anyone give me the definitive advice on how to remove and replace these Girling rear axle wheel studs please?

 

Thanks

Rod

[Number Plate Styles]

Ace plates were anodised aluminium and should clean up with care, likewise the Ace label. I remove the numbers and letters, repaint the aluminium backplate and then replace them.

 

Tipper's plates don't use the same letters and numbers and they are just polished aluminium, so not as nice and very expensive. I prefer the raised embossed plates with polished aluminium numbers and letters and several companies do them.

 

Ash

 

Ash,

Thanks for the information.

Could I ask what you use to clean off the old paint etc from the plate, Ace label, and the numbers themselves, and how you get the numbers off and re-attached?

 

If I do buy new, which companies would you recommend - I have made found via an internet search a company called Framptons in Waterlooville - do you have any experience of this company?

Thanks again,

 

Rod

[Number Plate Styles]

Pressed plates were in use in 54, but better cars...ie TRs, usually had plates such as Bluemels, Hills or , best of all, Ace, all of which had separate digits, either white, silver painted or polished aluminium...Note, ALL digits at that time were 3 1/2inch, not the later 3 1/8th post 1962 ones....Tippers plates can probably make you a pair, but they won't be cheap....Ace plates in 1954 were about 5 guineas a pair, equivalent to about £100 now!!!Bill P.

 

Bill,

Thanks for the rapid reply. I've been out to the garage to look at the old plates - they have a small oval logo plate in the top corner, covered with black paint, but one shows just enough to suggest it says Ace. It looks like they were the originals then - perhaps I'll see if they will clean up.

 

Thanks again,

Rod

[Number Plate Styles]

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone could advise on the style of number plate that would have been originally fitted to a late '54 short door car - TS4869, although it wasn't registered until early April '55.

 

The car restoration is nearing completion and although it isn't all to original spec, I am trying to keep most of the outward appearance pretty close.

The (scruffy) plates on/with the car are raised silver letters/digits on a black plate, but I'm not sure if these are the original/original style. They do seem to comply with the pictures in Bill Piggott's Originality book where the 2's and 3's appear to have raised digits with the 3A's having pressed plates.

 

Does anyone know the style of plate that would have been original equipment?

 

Thanks,

Rod

[MOT Regulations]

All - apologies for the multiple posts - not sure what happened there.

 

Following on from my post above - for the cut down screen I would like to understand if it has to be glass - can it be some sort of plastic for road use and MOT?

Also, as for the aeroscreen, would washers/wipers have to be fitted for MOT?

 

Thanks in anticipation.

Rod

 

PS - perhaps a moderator could delete the dupliocate posts for me?

Thanks

[MOT Regulations]

Hi - looking for advice (again)

 

Can anyone tell me what the MOT regulations are around the use of Aeroscreens? Can you present a car for MOT with Aeroscreens (and therefore no wipers/washers) or does the original screen need to be in place?

 

On a similar vein, I have seen a sidescreen car (at the Goodwood Revival, parked on the Lavant Banking) a few years ago with a cut down competitiion style screen. This had, from memory ~¼ to ½ height stanchions with a cut down screen. I quite fancy recreating this for my car and so afgain I would like to understand any MOT implications:

[MOT Regulations]

Hi - looking for advice (again)

 

Can anyone tell me what the MOT regulations are around the use of Aeroscreens? Can you present a car for MOT with Aeroscreens (and therefore no wipers/washers) or does the original screen need to be in place?

 

On a similar vein, I have seen a sidescreen car (at the Goodwood Revival, parked on the Lavant Banking) a few years ago with a cut down competitiion style screen. This had, from memory ~¼ to ½ height stanchions with a cut down screen. I quite fancy recreating this for my car and so afgain I would like to understand any MOT implications:

[MOT Regulations]

Hi - looking for advice (again)

 

Can anyone tell me what the MOT regulations are around the use of Aeroscreens? Can you present a car for MOT with Aeroscreens (and therefore no wipers/washers) or does the original screen need to be in place?

 

On a similar vein, I have seen a sidescreen car (at the Goodwood Revival, parked on the Lavant Banking) a few years ago with a cut down competitiion style screen. This had, from memory ~¼ to ½ height stanchions with a cut down screen. I quite fancy recreating this for my car and so afgain I would like to understand any MOT implications:

[MOT Regulations]

Hi - looking for advice (again)

 

Can anyone tell me what the MOT regulations are around the use of Aeroscreens? Can you present a car for MOT with Aeroscreens (and therefore no wipers/washers) or does the original screen need to be in place?

 

On a similar vein, I have seen a sidescreen car (at the Goodwood Revival, parked on the Lavant Banking) a few years ago with a cut down competitiion style screen. This had, from memory ~¼ to ½ height stanchions with a cut down screen. I quite fancy recreating this for my car and so afgain I would like to understand any MOT implications:

[Mota Lita(?) Steering Wheel]

Hi,

Can anyone help with advice on the best size steering wheel to fit to my Moss Rack and Pinion steering conversion on my TR2?

I think I would want to reduce to 15", or possibly 14", from the original 16.5 for appearance and because, of course, the steering should be lighter. I believe that a flat, rather than dished, steering wheel should be used to avoid the wheel ending up too close to the driver - does anyone have any experience?

I would also welcome any thoughts or experience that anyone has on particular makes of wheel - are Mota Lita the best?

 

Thanks,

Rod

[Indicators and Horn - how to achieve..]

Thanks to Stuart, everyone for the help and advice.

 

Willie - I think that your question has been answered - on my car the swapping of the arms and spacers solved the problem. The car is still with the restorer and so I can only go on his comments that it did the trick - we haven't got the car back and running yet so I hope I'm not going to find any issues when we get to that point.

You might find this link to another thread useful:

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=21826

 

Rod

[Indicators and Horn - how to achieve..]

Hi,

Looking for advice again (and thanks to all who have responded to previous advice requests).

 

My 2, nearing the end of re-assembly after a full rebuild, has a rack and pinion conversion from Moss.

Has anyone any advice and/or experience that they can share on how to achieve indicators and a horn push? I also need to source a steering wheel as my original doesn't fit the splines (not sure why, perhaps the original was for an adjustable column?)

So any advice on a wheel to purchase that can accommodate solutions for the indicators and a horn push will be very much appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

Rod

[chroming]

Hi James, All

 

Do you have an update on your experiences.

I too am looking for a chrome plater here in Sussex for parts for my 2 rebuild.

 

Any advice/recommendations gratefully received.

 

Regards,

Rod

[Gearbox Mainshaft output flange]

Some of you may have noticed my request on the for sale/wanted forum for a gearbox mainshaft output flange (square type).

 

After being given a lead by Ian Vincent (thanks Ian) I contacted Overdrive Repair Services (Sheffield) to see if thay had flanges available. They don't, but they offer a resleeving service which returns the seal diameter back to original condition.

The charge for this was £39.95 inc postage and VAT, and the end result is very good.

 

I hope that this info is of use to others.

 

Cheers,

Rod

[Yet more advice needed - this time on...]

Hi M. Pied,

That looks really neat.

What is the 'fan eliminator kit' - and where did you get it from?

 

Thanks,

Rod

[Yet more advice needed - this time on...]

Are your motor mounts old and soggy with oil ? If so, the weight of the engine might be compressing the rubber and if your engine is lower, so would the fan extension be lower.

 

Don,

Thanks for the reply - no it's all new and being assembled as part of a full body off rebuild.

 

Rod

[Yet more advice needed - this time on...]

We've fitted a Moss steering rack to my TR2, but now the fan hub extension fouls the rack.

Is this a common problem with a steering rack conversion? If so, it would appear that the best way forward is to omit the extension and fit the std hub and pulley with a shorter bolt, and fit a kenlowe or similar to replace the fan.

Has anyone had this experience and can shed any light?

Is there a shorter bolt available to make the proposed mod above?

 

Thanks again in anticipation,

 

Rod

[TR2 conversion to front disc brakes]

Apologies yet again to everyone for bringing this back up again, but.....

 

Ian, the restorer, now has the 4A vertical links, arms, etc fitted and the ride height looks fine, however he reports that we have significant positive camber.

Can anyone shed any light on what might be causing this?

I can't speak to Ian today, but I wonder if it could be due to spring length? If he has used the TR2 length spring/spacer rather than a later spring could it be as simple as this?

 

As before any advice gratefully received

 

Rod

[TR2 conversion to front disc brakes]

Rod my TR2 with the later TR disc brake set up is sitting in my garage if you want to have a look for details as i am not to far from you.

ROY

 

Roy - Many thanks. I may well be in touch when the weather improves.

Regards,Rod

[TR2 conversion to front disc brakes]

Hi everyone and apologies for dragging this thread all the way back up, but....

 

I've brought it back as I'm now really confused about the ride height and steering geometry issues discussed in other threads on the same topic. In this older thread the consensus was that the 4A set up could just be bolted onto an early car and off you go with the benefit of disc brakes and better geometry. Other much more recent threads that I've read and contributed to talk about ride height and other issues with the steering arms.

I'm a bit confused - can anyone give, in as simple language as possible, definitive guidance on this please as I and my restorer are struggling.

 

Thanks in anticipation.

 

Rod

[TR6 Front Suspension]

Not an answer I'm afraid, but I am experiencing a similar issue, or at least the restorer working on my TR2 is.

He has fitted the later 4A-6 front suspension arms, brake discs and vertical link assemblies to give the best braking and the improved castor. We are also converting to Rack and Pinion steering, and now he is experiencing difficulty in getting the Moss steering rack threaded ends and joints to line up with the steering arms - early or later type.

Therefore I too would welcome any advice/comment.

 

Thanks,

 

Rod

[Advice sought -]

Hi,

I'm looking for some advice.

My 2 is being rebuilt and I'm fitting a Girling rear axle and later front disc/caliper assemblies. I was thinking about fitting the separate Girling master cylinders but I understand that this requires new pedal assembly, pocket plate and bracket. I had tried to source these but was recently outbid on E-bay! Hence I'm now thinking about leaving the master cylinder as Lockheed.

I believe, from a very reliable source, that the original Lockheed master cylinder can be used with the Girling brake set up but was looking for further confirmation and/or advice from anyone that has done this.

Thanks,

Rod

[TR2 conversion to front disc brakes]

Thanks to everyone for the advice.

It is now clear to me that the link/hub/disc assemblys that I have are for the smaller triumphs.

 

Therefore I am in the market for the complete assembly, if possible, of vertical links, suspension arms and steering arms, hubs, discs and calipers from a late TR4 or 4a as suggested by Stuart.

 

Can anyone help?

 

Regards

 

Rod

 

Apologies for bringing this back to the top, but I have now obtained a pair of front link/hub/disc assemblies from a 4A.

 

The question that I now have is - can this assembly just be bolted on to the earlier car chassis? Clearly, the 4A arrangement has small brackets on the inner ends of the lower wishbone arms - is it as simple as removing these brackets and then the arms go on the chassis mounted fulcrum pins on the earlier car?

 

Is there anything else that needs to be done/changed, or that I need to look out for?

 

Thanks

 

Rod

[Relative merits of different suppliers panels?]

Hi,

 

I'm looking to buy a significant number of repro inner body panels for my TR2 rebuild and I was wondering what peoples experience and advice might be on the following:

 

Should I shop around to buy the cheapest panel from the Register approved reputable suppliers resulting in potentially some panels from one, others from another etc, or should I choose one supplier and stick with them even though this could be a lot more money?

Do you get what you pay for - for example the TR Shop floor panels and inner sills are much much cheaper than those from Moss. Does anyone have experience of these and could you offer any thoughts?

 

Thanks

 

Rod

[TR2 conversion to front disc brakes]

Thanks to everyone for the advice.

It is now clear to me that the link/hub/disc assemblys that I have are for the smaller triumphs.

 

Therefore I am in the market for the complete assembly, if possible, of vertical links, suspension arms and steering arms, hubs, discs and calipers from a late TR4 or 4a as suggested by Stuart.

 

Can anyone help?

 

Regards

 

Rod