[Gearbox identification?]

Hi,

Apologies to those that have seen this on my other thread, but I just want to widen this question.

 

I have removed my original 3 synchro box from my TR2 to replace it with a 4 synchro TR4 o/d unit.

 

The box that came out of the car looks like a TR box, it is the one fitted when I bought the car many many years ago, but it isn't.

 

The number stamped on the casing is ALnnnn, and this stamping is in the position more associated with the later 4 synchro boxes, ie on the bell housing below the clutch cross shaft drilling.

 

Also, my "original" gear lever probably isn't TR and that would explain the lack of spring and plunger at the selector end, it also has a small hole drilled through the lever near the base.

 

Does anyone know what an 'AL' three synchro gearbox would have been from? Talking to Alec P, we think it might be from an Atlas van?

 

Also, does anyone have a decent one piece early TR gearlever for sale?

 

Regards

 

Rod

[3 synchro gear lever in a 4 synchro box?]

A little more investigation, on the original 3 synchro box that came out of the car, and I find it's not a TR box. It is the one fitted when I bought the car many many years ago and so I assumed it was, but it isn't. The number stamped on the casing is ALnnnn, and this stamping is in the position more associated with the later 4 synchro boxes, ie on the bell housing below the clutch cross shaft drilling.

So, my "original" gear lever probably isn't TR and that would explain the lack of spring and plunger at the selector end, and possibly the difficulties I'm having selecting secoind gear. It also has a small hole drilled through the lever near the base.

Does anyone know what an 'AL' gearbox would have been from?

Also, does anyone have a decent one piece early TR gearlever for sale?

 

Regards

 

Rod

[3 synchro gear lever in a 4 synchro box?]

Hi Tim,

Thanks for your response. The box was checked and refurbished by possibly the best TR gearbox guy there is, so I would not expect the washer/end float to be the issue. I'm hoping it's just initial tightness/stiffness and it will ease, but I am just a little concerned that I don't have the right gearlever as it doesn't have the spring/plunger arrangement. It might be a silly thought, but I'm wondering if the selector end of the lever isn't right and that might be the problem - although selecting every other gear is fine?

Rod

[3 synchro gear lever in a 4 synchro box?]

Hi,

I have a newly refurbished TR4 4synchro o/d box fitted in my 2, replacing the previous non o/d 3 synchro original box.

I am using the old box gear lever, which is the one piece type.

I am having great difficulty selecting second gear - all others work fine, it's just second.

 

I've removed the gear lever to check it, re-clean and lubricate and, on previous advice received, to check the spring/plunger was correctly in place and not the cause of the issue. My lever, however, does not have a spring and plunger, just a solid small end that fits into the selectors. In all other respects it looks right, and is as far as I know the original and is as fitted when I bought the car in 1980.

 

So, my questions are:

Will a one piece 3 synchro lever work ok in a 4 synchro box?

My car (TS4869) should have a one piece lever, but with a spring and plunger in the selector end. My lever doesn't have this - is it possible it isn't a TR lever, how would I check?

 

Thanks

Rod

[Weight of a bare chassis?]

Conrad, Alec,

Thanks for the prompt responses.

Based on Alecs reliable "heave it" index, a set of bars at 75kg have been ordered.

My chassis is pretty rusty and so will be even lighter than std, so I'm sure all will be OK.

 

Thanks and a belated Happy New Year to everyone.

 

Rod

[Weight of a bare chassis?]

Hi,

 

I need to transport my old, slightly rusty, chassis and I'm looking to do it via roof bars on my car, but first I need to buy some roof bars. Can anyone advise the weight of a bare chassis so I can check the load rating of any potential purchase please?

Initial research into roof bars suggests most have a rating of 75kg and I'm not sure that is enough?

 

Thanks.

[10 day holiday with aero Screens]

Hopefully this will work - here we are sheltering in the 2 (with aeroscreens) during a heavy downpour on the way to CLM this year. We stopped here beside the road, and our friends in their MGB behind took this picture. We had to stop a few miles previously when the rain was so heavy I couldn't see where I was going!

 

Rod

 

[Wing mirrors]

Hi Dave and John B,

 

Thanks for the great ideas - I'll be looking to do something akin to John B's pictures I think to put a mirror on the left side of the car for our Classic LeMans trip this Summer. Looks really nice and simple.

 

Regards

 

Rod

[Wing mirrors]

Hi Deggers et al.

 

My bullet type rear view mirror fits into the bracket for the sidescreens inside the door.

May look funny but highly functional with no wobbling at all at any speed. When it rains, and when you park the car, simply undo the Dzus nut and store in the boot.

You can just make it out in my article in this month's TRaction - Trip to Morges- in two of the photos.

Like you I would never dream of adding any holes in my TR3A, and that is why I didaway with my similar clamp onto the tenon plate as I found it worked lose(just when you were unable to stop and fix it, like it normally happens - of course!)

It also left marks on the tenon plate where the two grubscrews attached it.

 

Dave

 

Hi Dave,

Your solution sounds good. Could you post a couple of close up photo's to show the detail?

Thanks,,

Rod

[TR2 with later front suspension set up sits too low]

Wow, I haven't been into the forum for just a couple of days and there is so much new Info.

 

Thanks everbody for all the information and effort in explaining/photographing the differences in parts.

I can see that I need to go back through my records and under the car again to see exactly which pans I have fitted.

 

I guess the higher spring seat, and what looks to be a slightly different angle on the later pan matches with the slightly shorter spring? So - if I have later pans and the longer 210903 spring the car ought to be sitting high not low?

 

Can I ask again what might be a really silly question - but am I right to assume I need to lengthen the spring or spring/collar/spacer/pan profile combination to get a higher body and chassis ride height? Do I risk reducing the clearance between the springpan rebound plate and bump stop by fitting longer springs?

 

Peter W - I will take you up on the springs if you're still happy to sell them. I'm also interested in your comment about having NOS from ST parts fitted - who are ST if I need to get some good quality parts?

 

Alan (Kiwifrog) thanks for the offer of spacers - I already have some from John W so I'm OK for those if they are the answer.

 

Sorry this brings this back up to the top again, but it is clearly a topic of interest to a number of members, and I'm still learning.

 

Cheers,

 

Rod

[TR2 with later front suspension set up sits too low]

Rod, why not grab the pair of 210903 springs Peter W offered. Fit them with rubber cushion washers and correct 200193 spring pans.

 

Fixes any mix and match problems that are hard to diagnose, or dropped springs.

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

 

Viv - thanks for the advice. Am I led to believe from your comment that the spring pans are very different from the early to later set ups, and if so could this be contributing to the problem? Will the earlier pan fit with the later wishbones?

Hope you're enjoying the Tennis there in Melbourne.

 

Rod

[TR2 with later front suspension set up sits too low]

To bring back up to the top, I'm still struggling with this.

My thanks to John Weedon for looking at the car with me last weekend.

We ascertained that I have what would appear to be the correct early suspension 210903 (Moss repro) springs fitted, without spacer.

 

I spoke to Geoff Marks at Moss and his guidance was that the fitted spring length should be 8.125 inches for the TR4 fitment which should be the same for my earlier car.

Scrabbling around under the car today, the fitted length seems about right based on this guidance.

 

I am wondering though if the combination of TR2 fitted with TR4A suspension arms and wishbones etc needs a different spring to the 210903 - which is the right one (without spacer) for the earlier car? The Moss catalogue says the 4A spring is 213165 - would anyone know if this is longer than/different to the 210903 and so might solve the problem?

 

If the 213165 and 210903 are not suffiuciently different then I imagine I'm looking at trial and error with thicker spring collars and/or use of the Aluminium spacer.

Silly question perhaps, but am I right to assume I need to lengthen the spring or spring/collar/spacer combination to get a higher body and chassis ride height? Do I risk reducing the clearance between the springpan rebound plate and bump stop by fitting longer springs?

 

The car does sit ~ 1&1/2 to 2 inches low, based on the measurment to the top of the scuttle in the service manual, given as 37 inches, my car is just under 35 inches (I know that modern tyres will affect this slightly), also the measurment to the top of my rear wheel arch opening is 25 and 3/16th's whereas the front wheel arch is only 23 and 3/4 inches.

 

As before, any advice gratefully received.

Rod

[TR2 with later front suspension set up sits too low]

Thanks everyone for all your helpful comments and advice.

 

John - I would welcome a chat, and perhaps I could pop up to see you, perhaps with the car (weather permitting) - I'm only ~20 miles from you (I live 5 miles north of Arundel). I'll pm you.

 

Viv - is there a way to positively identify the springs - a colour band for example, or is it ionly free length that can be identified? Also what are the different free lengths I should be looking for, with and without sopacer/packer?

 

Peter W - I may well take you up on the springs - I ned to check what I have fitted and I'll be in touch. Can I have first refusal?

 

Thanks again,

 

Rod

[TR2 with later front suspension set up sits too low]

Hello all - looking for advice again.

 

My 2 has TR4A* front suspension set up to provide discs, castor etc fitted as part of the rebuild, completed last year. However the car sits very low at the front. I would really appreciate advice on how to correct this - can it be done with alternate springs and/or spacers for example?

*I think it is TR4A - that is what I believe I bought - is there any way to positively identify?

 

I've looked back through a number of previous posts on the topic and have found some confusing, to me at least, comments:

My understanding is that the TR4A through to 6 vertical link is the same, but I have seen comments that suggest the TR6 kingpin (= vertical link?) will result in a lower ride height (by circa 1 inch?), but other comments suggest that the 4A set up can be simply and easily fitted? The car does sit probably about 1 inch low.

 

The car is driveable, but it is very low at the front (we've grounded once on a particularly uneven and bumpy road).

Any advice on how to improve the set up and/or identify the components I have fitted to work out what to change would be gratefully received.

 

Thanks,

 

Rod

[Dark blue for sidescreen car]

Only just spotted this thread, and then it took me ages to work out how to get a photo uploaded.

 

Anyway - here it is, my 2 in Royal Blue with Midnight Blue trim, Black (Revington) seats with dark blue piping.

 

 

 

Rod

[TR2 Non o/d speedo cable routing question]

Apologies in advance for asking something that I know has been covered before, but I've trawled through the Forum and I'm still a bit confused, so...

I would appreciate advice on the routing of the speedo cable on a TR2, from a non o/d box.

To provide a bit of background - When the car came back from the restorer earlier this year an angled drive adaptor was fitted on the box, but this chewed itself up because the speedo was seized. So - reading that the cable can be routed straight out of the box, I did just that (although it did seem very tight curve to bend round within the gearbox tunnel) and fitted a temporary TR4 speedo. All worked OK for a few weeks, but then it stopped, and I found that the cable had broken at the tight radius point in the tunnel.

 

Now my original speedo is back from repair, I want to get the installation right.

It seems to me that the the guidance for a non-o/d box is that the cable shouldcome straight from the box (no need for an angle drive) and fit through a notch or recess (?) in the tunnel before curving round. However, the speedo drive from my box seems to be quite high up inside the tunnel and to come out horizontally, or close to it, and this makes it difficult to see how it can fit into/through any notch?

 

As always, any advice gratefully received.

 

Regards

Rod

[Double Stack parking]

Thanks everyone for the replies.

 

My garage is an extended ~2.5 car long, single width. One half is ~7'6" to the bottom of the roof joists (~6-8" higher between), and the other half is roughly a foot higher.

 

I envisaged getting the windscreen of one car up beween the joists in the higher half, with the bonnet (probably) under the lower half.

However I think I can probably overlap the cars - front end over front (or possibly rear over front) to avoid having to get one car above the windscreen height of the other.

I'm still, I think going down the cheaper Hamer route.

I'm still interested in anyones experiences.

 

Regards

Rod

[Double Stack parking]

Hi,

Does anyone have any experience of 4 post lifts, or other lift designs, to double stack park cars within a garage?

 

I am looking to double stack our '54 TR2 and '61 MG Midget. We have only a low roof garage ~7'6" in one area, ~8'6" in another, but both cars are small, so I hope to be able to come up with something that works.

I've identified a few possible solutions:

Hamer mecchanical lift which would seem to be more tolerant of low heights.

Strongman four post lifts - they do a model for smaller cars.

Park-in-Space, a cantlever type design platform style lift.

 

Has anyone any experience of the Hamer, which I think is the most suited to my low height restriction, or either of the other two I've identified, or another option?

 

Thanks

Rod

[Speedo Drive]

More advice needed please....

 

Apart from my Radiator woes, the speedo wasn't working on the 2 when I collected it. The restorer had fitted an angled drive on the gearbox - but this had chewed itself up and broken off inside, also I'm not sure that this angled unit is really required.

I need to check that the speedo itself turns freely and that this isn't the root cause (I would have thought that the main speedo cable would have wound itself up if it were seized), but I'd also like some advice on the gearbox drive end.

I've searched the forum and it appears that the angled drive is only needed for o/d boxes on later cars, and so mine as an early non o/d set up should drive straight out of the box. If this is the case - is it as simple as pushing the cable end in and screwing on the outer cap? Apologies if this is nonsense, I havent actually got underneath yet to have a good look, but I wanted some early advice so I can work out any parts I need.

Thanks,

Rod

[TR2 Radiator Removal]

Thanks for the replys and advice.

 

I looked at it again early yesterday morning and decided that there was no way to get it out without the apron coming off, so it's done now. Thankfully with everything being nice and new, the apron came off easily and cleanly. I hadn't seen Stuarts note about loosening off the wings - is this something worth doing to ease the replacement step once the radiator is fixed?

Stuart - you also mention re-inforcement of the radiator neck area, how would this be done so I know what to ask for when I find a good old fashioned place to get it repaired.

 

On the subject of somewhere to get it repaired, I've got a couple of leads to follow up tomorrow, but can anyone else recommend anywhere in Sussex, ideally Worthing - Chichester area, for radiator work?

 

Rod

[TR2 Radiator Removal]

Picked up the 2 today after its restoration and it looks great, but it started overheating and after a couple of stops to let it cool and fiddle with timing and electric fan settings, I spotted that the (new) radiator had split at the point where the neck meets the top header.

So it was breakdown recovery from Salisbury plain back to Sussex!

Anyway - the point of this note is to ask if there is any way to extract a radiator without the pain of front apron removal and related risk to nice new paintwork.

 

Thanks

[My new Car, what TR is it?]

I have just bought my new car,its got an odd front on, which is why I was asking questions about aprons, this is bespoke . A round of applause for the one who guesse what it is. Could it be a Turk eater?

 

 

Is it a 3A apron 'filled in'? The headlight pods don't look proud enough to be a 2 or 3?

Rod

[V5C]

Alec, Brian,

 

Thank you for the advice - great stuff as usual.

 

Rod

[V5C]

Can anyone help on what to advise DVLA on the Registration Document after a restoration?

 

My TR2 is now very nearly complete after 26 years off the road, and a three year restoration/rebuild, during which time it has changed colour from red to blue, but all other relevent info - e.g. engine number & capacity remains the same.

Whilst looking at the V5C and guidance notes on how to advise the colour change, I noticed information on section 3 Special Notes - covering whether the car has been rebuilt.

 

Has anyone ever advised a rebuild through this section?

Is it necessary - i.e. do you have to adviise a rebuild?

Are there any downsides of providing this information?

 

As ever, I would welcome any advice.

 

Rod

[Replacing Wheel Studs]

Stuart,

Thanks again for the advice and link.

Rod