peejay4A
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Posts posted by peejay4A
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Somebody has wired the inhibit switches to operate like an A type. As I have done on my 4A.
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Failing to rev like that is also a symptom of a failed ignition condenser.
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Welcome. If I were you I’d run on the best grade unleaded you can get. Unless you do very high mileage you won’t suffer valve seat recession. Then if and when the head needs to come off you can consider having hardened valve seats installed. The reason I’m so anti-additive is the fumes they produce in the exhaust. They’ll give you a bad headache if your exhaust system isn’t fully gas tight.
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The rope trick also works for that if you don't have a compressor. Remember which cylinder you've moved the rope to though - see my post ages ago to see how I know
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You work your hand around the back. Grip one and push it towards you whilst trying to move it radially in different directions. It’ll pop off with a bit of patience. Rich’s picture shows the principle.
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7 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi Richard,
I have just used Dinitrol 3125HS on the rear wing of the 4A.
It's an aerosol with a 6" probe and stays where it is put. I have just ordered two more tins from ebay.
Roger
And it doesn’t sag as much as Waxoyl when it gets hot.
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I'm pretty sure they'll fit but there will be a hole where the TR6 key escutcheon goes which isn't there on the 4/4A.
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Some of you will have been to The National Museum of Computing on one of my tours. I was hoping to set up more this spring but Covid got in the way. Without visitors and schools our income stream has dried up. Our small staff is furloughed but we still have to pay rent (albeit deferred).
There is no place on Earth quite like TNMOC. Nowhere else can you see faithful, working rebuilds of pioneering codebreaking machines that saved countless lives on both sides of the 2nd World War conflict. The story continues and plots the evolution of computing up to the near present with the world's largest collection of working machines. Visitors, schoolchildren, teachers, staff and volunteers all deserve it to survive these straitened times. If you are able to donate, however small please do via the Crowdfunder link below. Thank you.
https://www.crowdfunder.co.uk/fuelling-the-future-powering-the-past#start
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Jaguar X350s had adhesive bonded aluminium panels.
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Yes, the pale one’s definitely an Anglia.
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22 minutes ago, RobH said:
If you mean the estate thing Pete, I was thinking Ford Squire 100E but it isn't quite right - the wing bulges look too fat, the central tailgate handle isn't there and the bumper is the wrong shape.
No, I was looking a the dark coloured 100E facing us behind the HA Viva.
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It's a 100E Anglia. The Prefect/107E has a trim around the headlight/trafficator.
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Good advice above. I'd use a self tapper with a washer and plenty of sealant around the washer..
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To the best of my knowledge the NHS supply chain is a private company wholly owned by the Government. So it is Hancock's responsibility.
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You can adjust the limit of upper travel but adjusting the rake of the glass is more of a problem. There’s not really enough slack in the regulator fixings nor the forward and rear channels to make a lot of difference. RogerH resorted to cutting and rewelding the regulator mechanism. You could try repositioning the glass in the channel that holds it to the regulator but adjustment is limited and if the glass pops out of the channel in use it’s annoying. If the rear of the glass is in alignment you might have more success trying to realign the windscreen rake.
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I wouldn’t pee on him with yours Tim.
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Nonsense. Garibaldi. Has to be. It’s dunkable and provides one of your five a day.
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Elect clowns. Expect a circus.
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12 hours ago, RobH said:
I am sorry if this all upsets some people but the truth is often unpalatable.
Your truth. Not mine.
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Memory of my rebuild is hazy but aren’t the bolts you highlighted captive in the pedal box?
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3 hours ago, martinp said:
Hi,
Please can you clarify what you mean by this/what this involves.
Thanks,
Martin
The copper washers need to be soft so that they deform slightly as you tighten the securing dome nut. This ensures that it's oil tight. Once they've been compressed by tightening the nut the copper work hardens and won't seal properly unless it's annealed again. I would do it even if using new washers as you don't know if they're annealed or not.
To anneal the washers, heat them to cherry red then drop them in water. That's it.
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AKA leakdown test. As Bob, found listening for air movement can tell you a lot. I got a cheap leak down tester from eBay some time ago, very useful and indeed it can tell you more than a compression test.
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Get it like this ^^^ and your wipers won't overrun the park position like mine did until I followed Alan's advice.
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The pdf looks like AlanT's work from the writing style so you can be sure of it's veracity.
Newbie introduction and radiator expansion bottle
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
While you’re looking into it make sure you have the correct type of radiator cap. It should be bidirectional, having a small valve in the centre which opens to allow coolant back into the radiator when cooling down. As Andy points out it should be a 7 lb cap and the overflow pipe should be immersed int the overflow bottle which should be 1/3 full when all is cold. Make sure that the pipe has a slash cut at the end so it doesn’t get sucked into the base of the bottle.