peejay4A
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Posts posted by peejay4A
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I use the Macy method every time. It works and I’ve proved it (to myself) to be more reliable in terms of accuracy and repeatability than the rule of 9.
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An interesting juxtaposition, well for me anyway, is my recollection of an Eagles concert quite a few years ago. It was so note perfect as to be indistinguishable from the studio recordings of all the songs. I found it a bit boring.
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Did it ever work properly or is this a new problem?
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Not to mention an ex-fireplace salesman in charge of defence then education.
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Biwiring anyone?
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29 minutes ago, RogerH said:
I forgave him, as he is quite good looking.
Roger
Same here. Less good looking though.
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I use a length of silicone rubber tube with a slash cut on the end that goes into the overflow bottle. Secured with cable ties.
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Ages ago I saw blue Hylomar spray recommended and I’ve used it every time since then.
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Maybe try a fill from a different Esso station.
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Just by the by, it’s CDD.
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Tried the air valve trick, and about every other one. No joy. Probably due to my Burgess head mods. I now use IanC’s suggested solution. Foot brake hard down, 3rd gear, drag the clutch ever so slightly and switch off.
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I should have read your post more carefully. The noise disappears if you cover the breather. It sounds to me a bit like a glugging sound so I wonder if it’s an oil circulation thing. Engine cold noisy, warm the noise disappears. That also fits with reducing the oil pressure.
What’s the pressure at start up and when fully warm? Oil level high?
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That's what I did.
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When the brakes are applied the shoes will initially try to move ever so slightly in the direction of rotation. If the open end of the clip was facing in the other direction there’s a small chance that any small movement of the shoes would dislocate the clip.
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“Out of interest where do you go for your news?”
Seems to cut both ways to me.
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I modified a catch from a Peugeot 309 (I think) hatchback. Just a bit of hacksawing and drilling. It’s a loop and very strong. No problems in 7 years.
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+2. I fitted a front arb to Eric and suffered the extra under steer for a while. I’ve now fitted a rear arb and turn in is better than my Audi S3. Not difficult because it understeers quite a bit. The TR is much more fun in corners. Not so much in a straight line though.
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Agreed. It’ll probably be considerably easier to add shims to the lower wishbone mounts. No dismantling required.
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EYC=Eric
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They look like bike carbs to me, Keihins maybe? If so the description is misleading.
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It’s the “single blink then turn” people that drive me nuts.
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I read that as Hip Hop. Sorry Sue.
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My daily driver DRLs remain on but dim when the headlights are on and also when the respective trafficator is flashing on that side. Incidentally the rear lights are permanently on too.
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1 hour ago, RogerH said:
There have been issues where 'cold' fuses check out OK but after some use they may go open circuit inside the glass tube.
Throw the fuses away and fit new ones. (assuming you are using glass fuses).
Roger
This happened to me. Some fuses of doubtful quality have the fuse wire trapped between the glass tube and the end cap rather than soldered. Failure is guaranteed eventually and it’s usually intermittent and gives precisely your symptoms.
Grease for CV drive shafts and general use
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by peejay4A
I would use dedicated CV joint grease (I use Comma) - it's black in colour. I use it in my trunnions. Why the need to regrease the CDD driveshafts? You'll need to remove the boots as there are no greasing points - at least that I can see.