peejay4A
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Posts posted by peejay4A
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I use a surgical clamp to hold the pin, end on. It’s easy to get it into place.
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CV joint grease for me.
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I have Marco’s version, superb it is too. In Rugby but not until 12 Jan.
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37 minutes ago, Paul Garvey said:
Hi
Thank you I will definitely try this once Xmas is over as my TR colleagues who were helping me are now busy with family.
Just so I am clear. I screw the engine mounting in a few turns, them "jiggle" the engine to fit the threaded part onto the engine plate. Put the nuts on a few turns to stop the engine mount "bolt popping" out. Then screw the engine mountings to secure them. Drop the engine and tighten up the nuts on engine mounts?
Hmmm. I hadn't noticed the metal blocks. Presumably they are bolted through into the chassis box section accessible through the lower wishbone from below? If so that's not how my 4A is arranged. I wonder if someone needed to raise the engine for some reason. My engine mounts and all the ones I've seen go between the front engine plate and the chassis, nothing in between. It sounds as though with your arrangement you have to rotate the engine mounts to screw them into the blocks. If so, it's not right.
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I just had exactly the same problem recently when fitting the uprated Cambridge Motorsport mountings. Make sure that the lower nuts inside the chassis box are as slack as they can be - only just engaged on the threads. That gives just enough wiggle on the mountings to persuade the upper threads into the front engine plate before you drop the engine fully down. You'll need to be able to rock the engine side to side a bit to do this. Good luck.
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I fitted my backlight glass on the utility room counter without any great difficulty.
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My local Formula 1 Autocentre successfully balanced my knock on alloys. I offered my set of cones to them but they said their machine can accommodate knock ons. Whether they meant that they had their own set of cones I don’t know but they did the job and they’re properly balanced.
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Do you have braided injector pipes? Some of them can allow fuel vaporisation with a hot engine on restart.
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Clashes with Glastonbury.
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Hi Graham,
I've got a suitable trolley that I used to support my TR6 body and tub whilst doing a chassis replacement quite a long time ago. It's the proper item with large(ish) castors and it's currently disassembled in various locations in my garage. You're welcome to borrow it for as long as you like but you'd need to work out how to assemble it because the last time it was used must be 20 years ago. I've no photos of it in use unfortunately so there's a risk it might not be complete, I'll need to check that. I'm away until September but it it's of interest drop me a PM.
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Wasn’t ULEZ a Johnson initiative, and the extension imposed by Shapps?
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Would you be able to elaborate on the CDD issues? I've had no problems with mine.
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Also suspect the non return valves in the MU connectors.
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Has it ever run? It seems as though the shuttle in the metering unit is stuck or the plastic drive dog is broken.
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If you have knock on hubs give them a tap with the copper hammer.
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I have the CDD setup on my 4A and I wouldn’t go back.
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2 hours ago, Andy Moltu said:
The cheaper price is in the Netherlands. The UK us an expensive market with only one distributor.
For me Hawk just got overly expensive so I tried Mintex 1144 pads and been just as happy with their performance. Slightly more bite when cold. Slightly earlier fade driving in the Alps but you wouldn't be unhappy with either. The significant difference is the price.
Agreed but I found significantly more brake dust, faster wear and the occasional squeal with 1144s so I’ve reverted to Hawk HPS.
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Here’s how I mounted the reservoir as I couldn’t get access to the recommended location.
I noticed that on the prior thread the pump is driven from a replacement crankshaft pulley. Mine has a replacement water pump pulley with two sheaves and a very short belt.
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Re possible concerns over the size of the CDD CV joints, the ones on my XJR were smaller and they handled around 400 hp without difficulty.
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I don’t know where the rack is from and there are no wedges between the rack and the adapter plate. The steering column angle looks no different to a normal installation although a shorter column is part of the kit. The bodywork needs “slight adjustment” on the passenger side to clear the ram at full lock. That’s on a 4A. Pipe work is a bit fiddly but not a big deal. I mounted the reservoir in a different place to the instructions as I have inner wing protectors and can’t get at the bolts to mount it according to the instructions.
It’s a great, if expensive, upgrade.
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The CDD rack is mounted on an adapter plate - on a 4A. Also there’s no fan clearance problem with a 4A.
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Something like this. Other designs available.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363516530434?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wqYF_Xe8SBa&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=LgaDRhpoRqi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY -
I've tried the "special" water pump grease. It's very grainy and doesn't behave well in any of my grease guns. I gave up on it some years ago and have used LM grease like Bob ever since with no problems. If you overgrease by accident the worst that happens is you get it flung onto the underside of the bonnet.
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Don’t start me on Wagon Wheels.
B737 Max - more problems
in Social Scene
Posted
Alitalia: Always late in takeoff, always late in arrival.
TAP: Take another plane.