[little help please...!]

Hi Java Green,

 

Welcome.Behind the crash pad under the dashboard you will find 2 bolts that must be removed.Then undo the nuts on the instrument knob shafts.Then remove the 2 screws holding the crash pad to the fascia.

You will find very good exploded drawings of the TR6 on the Moss Motors and Rimmer Bros websites.

 

Regards,

[intermittent engine]

Steve,

 

I assume the condenser has also been checked and is OK.Misfiring at low revs and full throttle in my experience is generally due to problems with the basic ignition components such as the spark plugs and gaps,points and points gap,HT leads,coil etc.But if they have been checked out and are OK then the advance mechanism and weights might be sticking.I'd remove the points base plate,check the advance mechanism including weights for wear,lightly lubricate all moving parts with engine oil,check the weights move freely and don't bind then reassemble.

 

Regards,

Steve,

If it is sticking advance weights you might be able to free them by spraying WD40 through the hole in the points base plate with the extension tube you get with the can.Hardly in the best traditions of British Engineering ,but it might be an easy fix.

Regards,

[ROCKERS]

Hi Tony,

 

I've had worn shafts built up with hard surface metal flame spraying then machined back to their original diameter.But they were round in profile.I'd be concerned about getting a rocker surface built up and then ground back to the correct profile at anything like a reasonable cost (its got to be done well 12 times) .

 

I take your point on the usual suppliers-I imagine that is why you are thinking about rebuilding the rockers.I find the quality of the parts patchy from all of them.There is a real need for a supplier that can consistently provide quality parts up to say the quality level of the originals.Labour today is such a major component of most work on a TR6 that I try and get the best parts I can for all jobs on the car -even if it involves extra cost or research and leg work.

[Pride does come before a fall]

David,

I really think you have an assembly problem.A quiet run at low speed shouldn't cause the valve guides to stick if the head was assembled properly.Were the two pushrods from exhaust valves? Two exhaust valves might indicate sticking - but at 2500 rpm on a quiet drive there would have to be something wrong with the head assembly for this to happen.

You are probably aware that there are at least 3 different lengths of standard pushrod used in different versions of the TR 2.5 litre engine.Is there any chance you got 2 long ones from a US spec engine?

But really I suspect your problem was caused by something mundane -like the pushrods not being properly seated in the cam followers when the tappets were set.

 

Regards,

[Starting problems]

Hi Snaps,

I agree with Lee.A Bosch pump can't suck fuel.It needs to be under the tank-which I've never seen done and is probably a fire hazard,or alternatively there needs to be a small low head primer pump between the Bosch pump and the tank to feed the Bosch pump fuel.The primer pump is selected for its capability to suck fuel from the tank and it is wired to operate when the Bosch pump does.

Regards,

[Disatrous engine problem - help!]

Phil,

 

Good to see that all is relatively well.You probably know this ,but when you reassemble the pulley drive make sure the dished face of the oil slinger faces forward.Maybe also worth having a good look at the the fan belt now things are dismantled this far.

 

Regards,

[Starting problems]

Hi Snaps,

 

First I'd check that when you removed the cut out switch, you did not disconnect or loosen the fuel enrichment system( "choke") cold start cable at the metering distributer.

 

Then I, check the filters, relief valve setting,rubber fuel lines to the new pump and the electrical connections to the primer pump -assuming that they may have got fouled or disturbed during the new pump installation.Is the new pump power cabling is adequate?-see previous threads.

 

Regards,

[overheating fuse]

I've got a 1969 TR6 fitted with a Lucas injection system and a Bosch pump.I had a lot of trouble with the injection system which may have been caused by low voltage at the Bosch pump.I took the brutal approach and installed a heavy gauge wire with a 35 amp in line fuse direct from the battery positive terminal to the fuel pump via a heavy duty relay.Like Stan I use the original pump supply to operate the relay.Since doing this I have not had any problems with poor fuel pump performance.

 

In my car the original fuse system was marginal with Lucas injection.If you have a non Lucas total EFI system wired through the original fuses your problem might be due to the fact that the EFI pump may be drawing more current than the fuses were ever designed to supply,even when working correctly.Depends on the type of pump the EFI system uses.If you go to an auto electrician he can check this, check for an intermittant short in the pump wiring and if, nesessary, measure current draw on the EFI pump.In any case the EFI pump would operate better if wired directly with a correctly sized, new and direct supply and relay.

 

6-8 psi should be heaps of pressure for the primer pump,provided its volumetric capacity at this pressure is at least equal to the EFI pump at full load.An inadequate primer pump will not cause your fuses to heat up and smoke-I'd look at the wiring first for this problem.

 

Regards,

[Disatrous engine problem - help!]

Phil,

 

The way I'd tackle the problem would be to repair the pulley assembly as required.Then when the pulley assembly is bolted up,but before assembling anything else, check the end play with a dial gauge.Hopefully it's within 6 to 8 thou.If your oil pressure has been previously OK I'd leave it at that and reassemble everything.

 

Regards,

[Disatrous engine problem - help!]

Phil,

 

Trouble with the "start up and hope" approach is there might be damage that could cause further further problems later.Oil seals don't suddenly leak gross amounts of oil unless there are other problems. I'd check the oil slinger in front of the timing chain for damage that may have occurred when the crankshaft pulley bolt was loose.

 

Regards

[Pride does come before a fall]

David,

 

I agree with PJM.The only real damage in this situation would be caused by a valve hitting a piston.If this didn't happen when you turned the engine over on the starter then I doubt that this would happen at 2500 rpm as, even with over length pushrods, valve float is not a problem at this low engine speed.The bent pushrod was probably not bent by hitting a piston-might have been a cam follower once it was freed.Once the pushrods were freed from the rockers the valves would close and be largely immune from any damage.

 

Look at the rocker and valve in the position of the bent pushrod.If they look OK -not cracked or bent respectively -then the engine is probably OK.

A compression test will show if the valve face has been bent,preventing the valve from sealing against its seat.

Maybe for peace of mind remove all the push rods and check them.You need to reinstall them in the same location they were removed from(I normally do this by punching 12 holes in a cardboard box to hold them in place).If you purchased a modified head, you may want to take the pushrods back to the head supplier to confirm that they are the correct length.

 

You were lucky this didn't happen at 6,000 rpm.Hope all goes well.

 

Regards,

[Pride does come before a fall]

David,

Are you certain the two pushrod end spheres were seated properly in the cam followers when the tappets were adjusted?

If the engine turned over cleanly by hand before it was initially started I don't believe running it for 10 miles at 2500 rpm should heat up anything enough to seize or cause any valve coils to bind up and jam due to revving.

Were the freed pushrods both from inlets?,exhausts?, or one of each?.

Assuming the pushrod end spheres haven't come loose and fallen into the engine-which may require a partial stripdown-,I'd certainly have a close look at all the rocker gear before I restarted the engine,including checking it for damage then rotating the engine several times to open and close each valve in turn,noting if any particular adjustment screws seemed to require more adjustment than the others.And if all the adjusting screws require to be backed right off to get the correct clearance, the chances are the pushrods are too long and new shorter ones will be required to suit the higher compression head.

Regards,

[Noise from the drive train]

Anders,

 

MimosaTr6's comment is, as he says a long shot,but it's easy to check the prop shaft for worn universals-rock them by hand with the gearbox in neutral.There should be no play.

 

I'd also check the gearbox mounts while I was down there.Make sure that they are not loose allowing the front prop shaft to hit something nearby if the gearbox moves under load .If this happens it suounds something like a child running a stick along a picket fence.If the prop shaft is hitting something you'll see evidence of this by looking around likely impact points.

 

Regards

[Noise from the drive train]

Anders,

 

MimosaTr6's comment is, as he says a long shot,but it's easy to check the prop shaft for worn universals-rock them by hand with the gearbox in neutral.There should be no play.

 

I'd also check the gearbox mounts while I was down there.Make sure that they are not loose allowing the front prop shaft to hit something nearby if the gearbox moves under load .If this happens it suounds something like a child running a stick along a picket fence.If the prop shaft is hitting something you'll see evidence of this by looking around likely impact points.

 

Regards

[Disturbing noise from the transmission]

Anders,

 

Removing and replacing the transmission is a major operation. I generally get everything that's made accessible by the removal checked and if necessary fixed while its out.This includes the clutch and starter ring gear.

 

Regards,

[Noise from the drive train]

Anders,

 

If you do have an overdrive don't forget to check the filters (one on an A type,two on a J type).I have an A type and the sump filter picks up absolutely any feral ferrous particles in the gearbox/overdrive's common lubrication system.

 

Of course the designers probably went to these lengths to filter the oil because particles such as gear teeth could be fatal to an overdrive with its fine internal clearances..

 

So if you have an overdrive unit I wouldn't drive it around for too long without checking the oil and filters.

 

Regards,

[Disturbing noise from the transmission]

Sorry folks-posted this twice.It's getting late.

Regards

[Disturbing noise from the transmission]

Hi,

My response is based purely on looking at the Brown Book and Haynes manuals -I have never done this.There appears to be three seals-one on each axle shaft and one on the pinion shaft.I believe that all three can be replaced without spreading the axle case.It looks to be relatively easy to do with the differential sitting on a bench-before installation.The axle seals are each held in the in the axle bearing retainers -bolted to the side of the diff with 4 bolts.Undo the bolts and remove the bearing retainer and oil seal.To replace the pinion seal it is necessary to undo a nut and remove the drive flange, the seal is underneath the flange hub as per normal automotive practice.

 

You might get responses through the night from someone that has experience in actually doing the replacement,but I thought this may help you sleep better-I would not like to try to remove the differential and replace it expecting it to work satisfactorily without the special spreader tool.

 

Regards,

[Battery Drain via Alternator]

Adam,

 

I don't recall any drain through the alternator with the ignition off.However I long ago fitted a battery isolator because security systems and other stuff were draining my battery while the car was in the garage.

 

I'm no auto electrician but I can imagine how leakage back through a malfunctioning diode could drain a battery.Or possibly a diode circuit thats left energized by the ignition switch without the alternator rotating.

 

Did you measure the drain at the alternator with the ignition off?

 

Regards

[Ignition Light Stays On]

Hi Nick,

 

If you have one of the early 28 amp alternators,I'd take it to be overhauled and upgraded regardless.28 amp alternators have "15 ACR" moulded in the black plastic cover on the end of the alternator case.I had mine upgraded to 45 amps for a very modest sum -I could have got more out for the same price but I was concerned about the effects on the ammeter and wiring harness.Now my ammeter runs off the scale for a few seconds on starting then settles down to a healthy charge.

 

I don't have to nurse the battery on short runs on winter nights.

 

May not solve the problem but if you have a 28 amp alternator it's worth doing anyway.

 

Regards

[Ignition Light Stays On]

Nick,

 

One thing that you haven't mentioned but would be easy to tell us and maybe help is- what are your ammmeter or voltmeter readings when the red light comes on?

 

Maybe post this before you remove the fan belt.If the fan belt is tired it should still be replaced-it seems to be one of those jobs better done at home rather than on the side of the road on a hot day.

 

Regards,

[Ignition Light Stays On]

Nick,

 

I have to agree with Stan.I believe it's an excessive output charging problem.If the fan belt was loose the belt would screetch when the engine accelerated and the light would then go out as it revved and the alternator caught up with it

 

I'd start by checking the wiring for loose/broken connections and especially the grounding of the alternator(thick black wire to the side of the block).If these are all OK then start looking for something more esoteric.

 

Changing the fan belt was dicussed on this forum in the last week or so.It's more difficult than most on most cars due to the steel bracing tube you mentioned.The secret appears to be to get a modern thin belt that can slip between the tube and the engine pulley.

 

Regards,

[saloon 2000 O/D gearbox to a TR6]

Thanks.I did a bit of research over the weekend and Daikin(Exedy) make a heavy duty clutch kit for a Triumph 2500.Part No. is TRK-6116HD.

I'll look at those for the next clutch.Also I believe Isuzu make a 9.0 inch clutch that's interchangeable and more robust.

I don't know if a 2500 clutch is weaker than a TR6 clutch ,mine last (2500-MK gearbox) one had only done a few,maybe two, thousand miles and it just started slipping on a freeway in overdrive top.And that was the end of it.

Regards,

[saloon 2000 O/D gearbox to a TR6]

Thanks Rod,

 

I would welcome any recommendations anyone has on the best clutch plate for a 2500 gearbox in a TR6.

 

With regard to the O/D switch I use a TR6 switch mounted on the left of the steering wheel,it's very easy to operate although I use the overdrive mainly for cruising ,not split shifting through the gears.

 

Regards,

[saloon 2000 O/D gearbox to a TR6]

Hi Rod,

 

Do you know if the Moss uprated GT6 clutch plate discussed in the thread is a significant improvement over a NOS 2500 unit.

 

Regards