Mike C
-
Content Count
2,206 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Mike C
-
-
Me too, Mike, but the primary pump is a Facet that keeps a swirl pot full, rather than pressurises the Bosch.
The pot is less than a foot above the Bosch, so provides a few inches of hydrostatic pressure, which is all that it requires.
Pumps in series add their pressures - pumps in parallel add their flows.
John
John,
I was thinking of replacing the Facet with a modern 50 odd psi Bosch , capable of sucking fuel . A second 50 psi Bosch in series will give the required 100 psi supply pressure, provided the case of the second Bosch will operate at 100 psi. If I couldn't be sure of the high pressure pump cases' pressure capabilities I'd go no further.
-
"They are fitted on a block and the 6-7 bars are
achieved by two pumps in line making 3-4 bars at each stage."
Has anyone tried this combination on a TR6? My Bosch pump needs another pump to prime it's suction- so I have 2 pumps anyway. I'm mainly thinking about future replacements.
-
-
-
Good luck today. If you think it may be the pump compare the amps your new pump is drawing against the original, or failing that against the Lucas nameplate amps. I've only had suspected pump suction vaporization problems once in 20 odd years, even on 40 deg C days. My tank is aluminium and the fuel return from the PRV is on the opposite side to fuel pick up sump. But still the heat energy imparted by the pumping process must be significant enough of a problem for people to install all means of coolers etc. to get rid of it.
-
-
Corrrect on the centre bolt. My bleed screw also has a copper washer and I've left it at that.
-
Top of the centre bolt and bleed screw.
-
Stale petrol will destroy the PI elastomeric components , even if they are fairly new and rated for unleaded fuels. You need someone that knows their way around Lucas PI systems - that tends to limit the field considerably.
-
These might be good components for a rebuild: https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/mount-barker/engine-engine-parts-transmission/triumph-lucas-mechanical-fuel-injection-/1140119190
-
Peter,
The item may be cheaper but they claw back the discount and more with their freight charges. A common trick on eBay which may have led to eBay creating their global shipping programme?
Gavin
I can agree with that. Looking to purchase a metering unit fuel diaphragm recently, Rimmers and Revington both quoted about 50 pounds to courier it to Australia. I settled for Royal Mail airmail at 4.30 pounds.
-
I'd also agree with checking the bonnet alignment first ( not a 5 minute exercise) and the catch spring tension when closing. It's possible previous owner may have a altered or changed the catch spring to try to cure problems with the bonnet opening uncontrollably.
If the bonnet lock lacks a firm locking action and springs open uncontrollably when crossing bumps I'd also check to see if bonnet lock spring in the lock plate has a round cross section. I had an earlier problem with my bonnet lock . I measured the spring force when my lock began to open at 0.5 kg, I then compared that against an apparently original lock I had in my spares box- which required 1.5 kg initial opening force. When I looked for the difference between the two the older lock had a spring made of square section steel. This gives the spring's tensioning component much more cross section to store energy.
Due to cost I can't see any aftermarket manufacturer making a lock spring out of square section coil - secure closing was probably the reason Triumph did so on the original.
-
I had my metering distributor unit rebuilt by a local expert, about 9 years ago, to suit modern fuel compositions . This week the fuel cam follower diaphragm failed badly with cracking on the flexing surfaces. I'm fairly certain this was due to stale fuel and maybe the lead replacement additive.
With the best of intentions I find it difficult these days to put more miles on the car. I'm therefore proposing to add a fuel stabilizer, such as Stabil, to the tank over winter.
Has anyone any experience, good or bad with using fuel stabilizer in a PI TR6?
Thanks,
Mike C
-
Some automotive trades would not know what a torque spanner is. The large chaps fitting tyres at my local tyre shop use pneumatic impact drivers for everything. They're set for truck wheels. I've given up asking for car torque settings and have settled for the owner undoing and retightening the nuts by hand before I accept delivery.
-
Glad you've got it sorted Gavin. With autumn here, I'm enjoying the TR without the worry of an oil system failure -a bit different to a few months ago..
-
I take it that Triumph Technical Service Bulletin 1-A-5 doesn't apply to the earlier CP strainers (the ones that look like a light bulb).
-
It's probably an academic exercise now, as our problem was defective adapter nipples.
Looking at my notes , I changed to Ryco Z134's to the Wix 51516 because it was widely recommended by European & US TR owners. Because it was part of a normal filter change I did not note how many turns the Wix filter engaged the nipple before it blew off. After that incident I replaced it with a Ryco Z134 filter as I'd previously used, I noted carefully that this filter engaged 1.5 turns, tightened up as far as I was game to take it.
After the blow off , the 1.5 turns of engagement I'd achieved seemed to be inadequate to me and I posted off a request on this forum asking for advice on what level of engagement others were achieving. I had believed the Mocal adapter was correctly mass produced and checked. The responses made it obvious that my adapter had a much shorter nipple than had been installed in others.
This led to the nipple replacement and the use of the Z37 filters. Personally I liked the way the Ryco filters have machine cut rather than rolled threads- just a personal preference.
I'm sure we have corrected the filter nipple problem. I trust the rest of your adapter is now oil tight and working correctly.
-
I've used Ryco air and oil successfully since the 1960's. I'd never heard of Wix until recently, when I thought I'd give them a try. The Ryco filters on my TR6 worked, even hanging on to the adapter by a thread or so for years. The Wix blew off first start. So I went back to Ryco. I've no firm experience of Wix beyond this. I guess I was lucky in that the Wix filter discovered a problem with my filter adapter that could have destroyed the engine on the open road.
-
No worries. Even though the longer nipple thread has almost certainly solved your problem, I'd start up in a garage and take the engine revs up until the oil pressure plateau's out due to the PRV valve operating. Be ready to switch off if the oil pressure drops suddenly. The filter that blew off my too short nipple was a Wix 51516 - I was not impressed by the incomplete form of the rolled threads.
I really don't think debris accumulation is a problem with my oil filters- they would be lucky to do 2000 miles between changes. I am concerned with a total PRV system failure causing breakage of the oil pump shaft- that's why I like filters with internal pressure relief.
-
Looks like a good job . With regard to the oil filter, after a lot of good advice from the blokes in Oz and New Zealand, I settled on a Ryco Z37. Couldn't be happier- driving around in traffic this morning (26 degrees ambient ) I'm getting 40 psi with an 800 rpm idle, when I started and blew the injectors clear oil pressure was limited to about 90 psi at 4000 rpm. Previous filters gave me over 100 psi on a cold start - I suspect that they did not have the internal pressure relief arrangements of the Z37.
-
Hi Gavin, obviously just make sure that you have enough threads engaged in the adapter body and filter case before you put it together with the red Loctite. The dodgy looking butterfly nut is part of the Mocal filter assembly. I haven't got the fitting instructions with me but it is associated with the section of missing thread on the mounting bolt. I can remember I had a lot of trouble getting the adapter to seal against the block - it was decades ago- but I probably used Permatex Aviation Form a Gasket to make sure it sealed, resist the temptation to tighten the daylights out of the mounting bolt.
-
The first Wix filter I tried blew off onto the garage floor, the threads were rolled and not as strong as the Ryco's I'd used previously. I stopped the engine as soon as I heard the bang as it hit the oil drip tray- this had happened to me before with another model of filter .My engine would have been history if it had come off on the open road.
To summarize the story I posted here earlier-there appears to have been a bad batch of filter adapters made with short nipples. I had to remove the adapter and heat the aluminium case with a large propane torch to remove the steel nipple. I then had a larger nipple made with about 20mm of thread engagement made and I fitted it with Loctite.
While I was at it I profiled the end of the nipple for better oil flow.
-
I can Stuart , but it's definitely a lot harder to do than it was when everything was generously greased.
John bonnet straps did cross my mind, it might come to that if necessary.
I had a bit of excitement when I floored the throttle during new seasons testing on a local freeway The throttle jammed against a heater hose moved to install a battery tray over winter. The car wouldn't slow down ( I never suspected the arm would be jammed) so I pushed in the clutch in and braked. The unrestrained bonnet flew up while braking and the tacho went off the scale before I cut the engine. That gave me a few jobs to do when I got home.
-
I tried for a long time to cure this problem on my TR6. Tried bonnet realignment, new guillotine catch etc. but the problem kept recurring. I might have finally fixed it by totally degreasing the mushroom head on the spring loaded striker, then filing the flat top that engages the guillotined catch perfectly flat. It seems use over the past 47 years has worn the flat mushroom head top into a more rounded shape. Just tried it over my local speed humps, that normally spring the bonnet, and it holds fine.
Misfire electrical or fuel?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
The choke lever on the side of the metering unit is returning fully?