Mike C
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Posts posted by Mike C
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Personally, for old components I'd use a thread gauge or unscrew the fitting and take it to parts shop.
I've been caught in the past with old components having several alternative thread options when originally manufactured t.
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I have the large CAV filter and a Carter booster pump mounted in the back LH corner of the boot- which enabled me to mount the Bosch pump and PRV higher-above the boot level.
Apart from that back corner I could not mount anything in that space and still fit a spare in.Also don't forget you need a straight run of pipe into the pump suction or you could get petrol vapourization in hot weather.
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No, it was a standard calibrated pressure gauge. Personally I don't like subjecting the gauge internals to pressure pulses but for this duty it probably doesn't matter.
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59 minutes ago, Macleesh said:
Hadn't realised RS charge £6.95 for delivery so Ebay is cheaper for the tee, and in fact everything. Tee, £18, 2M pipe, £10, Glycerine filled 63mm gauge £11.45 (1.6% accuracy) will bang an order in.
Thanks
Sean
From memory I had to use a bushed down 1/2" SS ball valve to dampen out pressure pulsations at idle.
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43 minutes ago, astontr6 said:
It was sometimes fashionable in the 1970s to fit them to help to suppress RF interference??? I made one from welding wire which is super flexible it made no difference. Don't bother!
Bruce.
Bonnet earth straps were a popular solution to RF interference affecting CB radios in the mid 1970's , I don't know why they were made with such high capacity duty conductor strap. The TR's metallic bonnet and catch would probably serve the same purpose as the strap.
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I haven't got one on my TR but in other cars Ive made one by buying a battery strap with flat bolt on terminations at both ends then cutting the insulation off. If you leave the insulation on the strap is too rigid.
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Almost no PI TR6's will start when the first piston hits TDC- like a modern car, especially if they've been left for a week or so without running. But it should start reasonably quickly if used daily. If not make sure the enrichment cable on the MU is connected and adjusted.
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You might hear the pump change note when the PRV starts returning fuel, depends on your pump and hearing acuity.
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Check for manifold leaks with a vacuum gauge on the brake booster connection. My MU is calibrated to run correctly with 10" Hg vacuum at idle.
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44 minutes ago, JohnC said:
Just get a regular vacuum gauge, like this one (this is an Australian supplier, but they're pretty generic). There are also more sensitive ones, but I assume you only need to measure around the 10"Hg range. I have a 0-100kPa and a 0-15kPa connected in parallel for my PI calibration rig.
If you need to generate a vacuum it's very simple if you have a compressor - just connect the airline to a vacuum generator (a venturi with an adjustable flow rate). No need to pump, and the vacuum stays nice and stable. Ish.
John C
+1. Note I've never had much time for vacuum brake bleeders- unless you are really careful they will suck air in around the bleed nipple.
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Oil on the flywheel generally causes the clutch disc to slip.
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41 minutes ago, pjc615ukuk said:
Hi Mike.
I'm guessing that's another possibility? I only ever fill up with Shell V-Power E5, and have replaced / diluted the overwintered fuel with probably around 40 ltrs of fresh fuel.
I add Stabil over winter now- that solved my previous spring restart problems. If the MU fuel control diaphragm has gone fuel will leak from the base of the MU.
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Any fuel dripping from the MU? Could be modern fuel has got to your fuel control diaphragm over winter.
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See if you can do a plug cut before removing the plugs. Most MU problems I've had have lead to an exceedingly rich mixture.
A manifold vacuum gauge connected to the brake booster connection will tell you a lot.
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For what it's worth, I had a coil go intermittent on an old Holden V8 a few years ago. Symptoms were the engine would stop suddenly after running for an hour or so at around 115 kmh on a freeway. The engine would restart after 20 minutes and keep running as if nothing happened.
Went through the usual checks, fuel, ignition etc but could find nothing wrong in the garage at home.
The problem with the Holden was solved permanently when I installed a new coil in a cold location , well away from the engine, on the firewall.
Some PO had done the same thing to my TR6 in years past, maybe for the same reason.
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42 minutes ago, BaulyCars said:
Has anyone tried the Wilwood/Goodparts brake master cylinder set-up, maybe that's a good upgrade in terms of pedal force/feel?
https://www.goodparts.com/product/dual-master-cylinder-kit-tr250-tr6-5-8-bore/
You've lost the booster. Roadworthy and insurance issues come to mind, and quite frankly I've learned to adapt to my old TR's braking system , warts and all.
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10 minutes ago, DRD said:
Marco - I found the anti-squeal shims plus copious amounts of brake grease cured all my brake sqeaking.
Darren
I've generally had good success with CRC Disc Brake Quiet, less so when I've used it with EBC Red Stuff pads.
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And you have replaced the short 2 pipe heater hose transition piece through the firewall ? I replaced my heater matrix last year and it's not a job I'd like to repeat.
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2 hours ago, RobH said:
Just beware of using SS for both the bolts and nuts. Stainless-on-stainless is notorious for 'galling' where they fuse together immovably.
Absolutely true once high torques are applied to SS/SS threads - and once SS nuts/bolts start to gall turning only locks then up harder. Moly or graphite grease on the threads will prevent the galling starting.
It's not a problem, of course, with SS fasteners into MS threads or MS bodywork.
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14 minutes ago, Macleesh said:
Great idea, just be careful SS has a lower tensile strength than standard steel ones. SS may not be suitable for critical areas.
Most decorative/trim components are pretty lightly loaded. Corrosion of chrome plated components has been my big problem and things like SS fasteners these days are virtually the same price as quality MS ones.
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44 minutes ago, Waldi said:
Then it is more like a harmonic crankshaft generator! I would bin it.
Waldi
Yep.Probably generates more lateral and torsional vibrations than it dampens.
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1 hour ago, Malbaby said:
Put the balancer on an engineer's lathe yesterday...22 thou runout on the face...12 thou out of round.
Good grief, and it was new and undamaged?
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Whenever I'm purchasing fasteners I replace them with SS , if possible. Cheap these days and last forever.
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Some ideas while you are at it. My steel heater valve extension tube was filled with scale down to about a 6mm hole in the centre- I replaced it with an all SS component.
I also replaced the old diaphragm heater valve with a Four Seasons ball valve- makes switching the heater flow on/off and setting the temperature magic compared to the original
Rimmer's
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I've got a few l useless part from Rimmer's over the years and just written them off- the postage costs and the general messing around involved has just put me off returning them .
More disappointing is the time loss involved in trying to fit the part and often the loss of use of the car while I source an alternative component.
Good luck with finding someone in the company that will take ownership of your problem.