Mike C
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Posts posted by Mike C
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The judder may be engine or gearbox mounts. I've had to replace both over the years.
Is the dripping oil engine or gearbox oil?
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You need assurance it's a Viton diaphragm before you start installing it.
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I suspect that the fact that the Lucas PI system is basically driven by manifold depression makes it largely independent of fuel system pressure.
If the fuel system pressure is higher and this results in more fuel being injected by the MU, the engine speed increases, the manifold vacuum increases and the control unit then reduces the fuelling rate.
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And have a look at the pump earth.
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I would not trust the media adhesives used in a diesel filter with modern petrol fuel blends.
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7 hours ago, Macleesh said:
My 70 CP car has no inertia switch and I can find no evidence of there ever having been one. I assume there would be a pair of wires joined near the wiper motor at least but there's no sign of them. Did all PI cars have them?
I guess I need to start thinking about installing one.
Sean
My 1969 CP didn't have one fitted ex stock but I retro fitted one from an XJ6. These days I'd certainly fit a modern , more reliable inertia switch if it was missing.
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Does this only happen after a long run on a hot day? If so it could be hot fuel in the tank vapourizing in the pump suction.
I'd be surprised if the cause was anything to do with the rocker cover vent system.
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You've tried removing all the nuts at the back of the case in the hope they may hold it together?
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Make sure you buy a quality diaphragm suitable for unleaded. I bought & shipped out a diaphragm at great expense from one of the major British TR6 component suppliers about 7 years ago and it failed after an hour or so.
Spent the morning fitting it to the MU then reinstalled and re timed it. Started the engine and everything worked properly. Returned from lunch and restarted the engine and the fuel leak had returned. Very disappointing.
I then disassembled the MU and found the unleaded petrol had caused the diaphragm to swell until it was a loose fit on the shaft.
I then had a Viton diaphragm fitted by a shop that could source them back in those days and all has been well ever since.
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19 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said:
If you fit a pre filter make sure it has decent sized pipework and is a coarse mesh. It's job is to protect the pump from coarse debris and swarf. The post filter deals withe fine stuff that damages the MU and clogs injectors.
Avoid the restrictive glass pre filter that has quite small internal pipework. Once sold by an expert of yester year who also sold a big outlet for the tank. The latter was a good thing, the filter completely negated it.
+1
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I'm far away from my car and manuals at the moment, but have you had a look in the famous TR6 Brown Book?
A copy can downloaded from:
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Were the injectors rebuilt and recalibrated ?
I found rebuilding and recalibrating the MU and injectors to suit my particular engine (2.7L, TR5 cam) absolutely transformed it.
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You've fitted a pump fairly recently. Make sure the pump suction is free of restrictions and low relative to the tank's fuel level.
Cavitation/ vapourization of the fuel only occurs on the suction side of the pump.
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If this is happening with high ambient temperatures you could be experiencing fuel vapourization.
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8 hours ago, Ernest said:
Hi all
I took the TR our earlier this week - hot day - following a 30 mile run I stopped for lunch parking the car in the sunshine. About an hour later, when leaving, the car would not start. So I opened the bonnet to allow more air circulation and turned off the fuel.
After waiting about 30 mins I turned the fuel back on and the car started first time and run fine for the 10 miles home.
Was the non-starting related to what has ben termed 'cavitation'? Can anyone please explain what might have happened.
Best Wishes
Ernest
Might be fuel vapourization. What was the ambient temperature when this fault occurred?
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Have you done anything to the car recently?
Easiest thing to check is the fuel tank is freely venting, if that's OK I'd have a look at the plugs and coil.
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I had my gearbox oil replaced by mistake with GL5 after a clutch replacement.
The GL5 was far too slippery for my synchromesh to work properly and it caused jumping out of second gear at high throttle openings.
It took two changes of GL4 for these problems to disappear completely.
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Have you installed the rubber seal under the flap? Mine would be visible in your lower photo and it helps the flap to sit level .
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1/8" X 28 BSP taper I believe. Sorry, I was looking at the pressure switch, not the insert.
javascrip
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13 hours ago, stuart said:
That will be slack in the winder cog, as you wind it up you take the slack out and then when its up and you release the winder then the weight of the window slops the slack back the other way. They can be repaired, just be aware if you swap it for a new repro the stub for the winder handle is slightly short so makes it difficult to get the pin back in unless you either delete the trim spring or cut it down.
Stuart.
+1. The hole in many repro window winder handles is higher than the originals- you can waste a lot of time trying to get them to fit with the original spring and escutcheon plate.
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2 hours ago, trchris said:
When l had my pipes made at a local hydraulic supplier he said why weren’t l using normal hose clamps after l said because these run at 105psi he replied have a look at your compressor hoses and see what used on those l went emmmmm
Chris
+1
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14 minutes ago, Waldi said:
Hi Paul,
some PI-owners believe a pair of hose clips is sufficient; I prefer the crimp-ferrule type for rubber hoses. I think that is what Tony (the OP) is planning to do.
Waldi
My car had a pair of SS Jubilee clips with the heads spaced 180 degrees apart on each hose joint when I bought it in 1996 and I've had no problems since. 10 years ago or so I calculated the FS on the WP using data from the available Jubilee manual at the time and it was something like 4 .
I'm not worried at all leaving my current arrangement as is.
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Engine numbers.
in TR6 Forum
Posted
You plan to add your own set of numbers to the block with a set of number punches?