Mike C
-
Content Count
2,202 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Mike C
-
-
I may have had a different problem to yours , but I cured my cutting out on deceleration by installing a set of NGK BUR 6ET plugs.
-
I too was very pleased when this simple cure for a failed injector worked. For me the perennial problem was No. 5 injector - I've long ago lost the line filters in the MU banjo's and I suspect my fuel system internal elastomers were being destroyed by modern fuel which generated small particles which in turn caused intermittent blocking of the injector. After blowing the injector clean on about a monthly basis I found that rebuilding the fuel system with Viton elastomers finally fixed the problem.
I can't recommend testing the injector flow patterns with a running engine since I had a small engine fire trying this method. The fire only damaged the nylon line to the injector but it could have been serious had I not put it out quickly. I now test injectors with all the plugs removed, the LT lead off the coil and the injectors discharging into separate jars.
Good luck, I hope that you've only got a once off problem.
-
When you opened the front bleed nipples did the pads grip on the discs loosen?
-
I used a linked belt on a Fordson Major E27N water pump decades ago because it was impossible to get a continuous belt past the fan blades/radiator but I'd have to question a linked belts ability to take load reversals in an engine going up and down from 750 to 6000 rpm through the gears.
-
How do you know what direction the compressed gas mixture is coming from with the piston squish present near TDC?
-
If I installed a new tank and fuel system I would expect the filter to be blocked early just due to debris in the new components. Easy to change and see if things improve.
-
Does the missing not occur when the tank is full?
-
Modern cars have some form of electronic ignition , which generally provides higher sparking voltages than the old coil and points system used in the TR-hence the 0.035 gap in the NGK plugs out of the box.
My BUR6ET plug's gaps are whatever they came as in the box as they can't be changed. They operate satisfactorily with a Pertronix Igniter and some form of monster coil a previous owner installed in the 1970's.
-
Beware shipwright's disease . If the car's running safely, I'd defer any major work until winter, some future winter, not necessarily the next one .
-
-
-
I used to used BP6ES but I had fouling problems, switched to BUR6ET and had a huge improvement in starting and hill climbing performance.
-
I'd start by making sure all the body earths are connected and clean.
-
I had my PI system rebuilt with Viton elastomers. Viton seems to work well with modern fuels, I would have had thought PTFE would be too hard for use in PI system components- the original elastomers might have been made of nitrile. Can't help with the sizes unfortunately.
-
I have a Bosch pump plumbed so the return line from the PRV is at the far side of the tank from the pump suction line. Return fuel has to cross the tank and cool before it can be repumped.
This system works well in ambients up to the high 30's - above this I leave the TR in the garage .
-
In the original gearbox design there is a hole about 1mm diameter located in the front of the selector cover. It's easily blocked and I can see why Roger drilled a larger hole and fitted a split pin.
Where does your gearbox leak? Overpressure due to poor venting can cause a leak but often it's something else- generally seals.
-
If you take the sump off run a straight edge along the mating faces to make sure the gaskets are being compressed properly. I went off finned sumps decades ago after reading an article by the late Phil Irving in a book published by Repco/Brabham around 1970 - the didn't improve oil cooling during engine operation much at all unless the sump also had internal ribs. Can't find the Repco reference but this link has Phil's ideas from his book "Motorcycle Engineering"
-
-
1 hour ago, Riche said:
Mike, it starts ok and it does not drop any oil either
If it starts easily hot but not after being left for a few days it could be the check valves in the lines from the MU to the injectors. In any case if I leave the car for more than a few days I let the pump run for maybe 30 secs to fill up the injection system and start returning fuel to the tank. A Bosch pump changes note when the lines are full due to the increased head. You cannot expect a cold TR to fire as soon the starter turns like a modern car.
The oil leak is a red herring with the starting problem but if I were you I'd still have a look at it when I had some spare time.
-
After you've been for a run, does the engine restart easily?
-
I believe that bullet connectors are not as good as spade connectors- that's why their no longer used. I can often get them to work more reliably by cleaning then with emery paper and slightly squashing the female head- to give a better grip.
The best solution is to solder any joints that don't have to remain demountable.
-
Getting back to your original question, most modern, high octane fuels will probably destroy any original elastomers in the PI system. The reason for using PI is power. To get the maximum power you need high octane with the correct timing.
If you're garage believes your elastomers are incompatible with modern high octane fuels you need to have them changed if you want to enjoy the advantages of PI.
-
Triumph used to recommend 97 octane, 4-star. Modern fuels with this octane rating will destroy the original fuel system elastomers. I had to replace mine with Viton.
Running a PI engine on lower octane fuels will cause detonation-pinking- which will quickly destroy the pistons if it happens under load. Pinking can be reduced somewhat buy retarding the timing- but this will also greatly reduce power as well as load up the cooling system.
-
Petrol fumes used to force me to shower and change clothes after a long run, for years I just accepted this as part of TR ownership. But it all went when I had the MU and injectors properly rebuilt and recalibrated.
The calibration curves on my old MU showed it was running way too rich.
Before the MU work I was looking at side pipes, a mate in the 1970's had pipes exiting in front of the rear wheels, but I'm happy now with my standard Monza exhaust
Brake hoses
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I went through this a few years ago, depending on your year the Girling brakes could be imperial or metric threaded: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=15&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwi0_tnNy6_kAhXI8HMBHf95C9cQFjAOegQIBRAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.tr-register.co.uk%2Fforums%2Findex.php%3F%2Ftopic%2F20913-which-brake-caliper-is-this%2F&usg=AOvVaw3kxSNCUPvsS6P7gj0yJKql