Mike C
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Posts posted by Mike C
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If you buy a new tank make sure it has the design features required to overcome as many of your potential fuel problems as possible. For example my alloy tank has the return line fitted on the far side of the tank from the pump suction line- above the passenger side rear wheel. That means that heated fuel has to cross the tank before returning to the pump suction - helps feed the pump cooler fuel- minimizing cavitation , which is important on a hot day in Australia.
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1 hour ago, Mark Ogram said:
Thanks JR and Mike.
That illustration is the same as I have. If the tube inside the tank was clear, you would expect the fuel levels in the pipe and the main tank to be level ? Or am I missing something ?
Thanks.
Mark.
If the PRV return line is disconnected the levels in the tank and the return line pipe component in the tank would be the same. If they levels are not the same the return line section in the tank is blocked.
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Have you checked your manifold vacuum at idle? I use a vacuum gauge on the brake booster line. I know from decades of measurements my engine has to have 10 inches of mercury at idle on the airscrew. If I can't reach that level with the idle air screw I've got a leak somewhere.
Note: my engine has had a lot done to it over the years- your engine may need to reach more than 10" Hg when idling without a leaky manifold.
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In a previous life we had to design the fuel fill lines for vertical storage tanks to discharge well below the minimum operating level- to prevent fuel splashing causing sparks due static electricity. Triumph probably ran their fuel return line that way for the same reason.
I'd be hesitant to cut the return line off and let the fuel discharge directly into the top of the tank- attractive as that might seem.
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Sorry for the misunderstanding, GB= gearbox switch the one on left hand side of the gearbox top cover that switches the reversing lights on when reverse is engaged. If your wiring is correct (and I'd check this first) it might be stuck in the on position or, as Roger says , may have fibre washer-spacers missing effectively jamming it on.
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No blockages or kinks in the return line from the PRV to the tank?
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The GB switch is the one that switches them off when you disengage reverse.
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Make sure the earths in the boot are all making good contact. If the problem persists you will need to check the wiring. The backup lights are controlled by a switch on the gear selector- I'd check everything that's easier to get at before I looked at that switch and the associated wiring under the tunnel.
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Put the car in 4th, rev the engine to about 3500 rpm and release the clutch. If the engine stalls the clutch is probably Ok to use at least until next winter's maintenance checks.
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I've had no problem with brass nuts, but you can use steel nuts with graphite grease- the oil in the grease evaporates eventually but the film of graphite left being will stop the nuts from seizing nest time. Make sure your studs are actually unscrewing from the block- if they break off it's a whole new world of pain.
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I'd spray the nuts each day with nut release spray until I tackled the job. Payen gaskets are good quality, I'd apply a smear of graphite grease each side to help them bed in when torqued up.
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Hopefully cupro nickel lines. Copper brake lines have been banned in Australia for years- see the checklist Appendix 3 in this:
I suspect the banning goes back to the days of widespread dirt roads and vibration work hardening of the copper leading to cracking.
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You would notice it- it would be a few cc. If the pads are gripping the disc then either there's pressure behind them or they're stuck in the calipers. If you open the bleeder and no fluid comes out then , unless both bleeders are blocked , there's no pressure in the calipers.
I'd make sure the pads can freely move for starters.
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You might be getting pedal travel/return but your front discs could be still locked on. Like Roger say's a flexible hose could be blocked. When you open the bleeder nozzle and move the pads back, they should move freely and displaced fluid should discharge from the bleed nozzle.
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My winter works are approaching completion. About 6 weeks ago I replaced the overdrive operating valve seals with 7.60mm x 2.62mm , Shore 75 ,BS 109 Viton O rings. In the garage this has stopped the leak and the A type OD is switching reliably. I won't know for sure that this has fixed the problem until the car is back on the road later this year.
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Your ammeter or voltmeter should show the condition of the alternator . Hope it was just the battery, vibration on a long trip can shake material off the plates in batteries nearing the end of their life.
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No other vacuum leaks- brake booster or its vacuum hose?
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There's always an inhibit switch on reverse.
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2 minutes ago, stuart said:
No they will have two, one either end of the PTO shaft
Stuart
Bet the mating flanges at either end aren't parallel
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I don't think replacing UJ's with CV joints will solve the main TR6 rear end problem which is the half shaft splines can stick when cornering. I have modified Datsun 180B half shafts with UJ's in my TR6 and they've worked well for maybe 30 years. The Datsun half shafts have ball rollers to stop the binding up when cornering.
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Check the O/D interlocks work still in the lower gears /reverse. Some boy racer wired mine to engage in all gears to help him climb hills faster in the 1970's/80's
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" The headlight dipping switch works in the opposite direction to that shown in the owners handbook"- a simple note in the weekly dealers newsletter took care of this anomaly in 1968. I couldn't see that being the case today.
Scuttle vent lid
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I bought my car 20 years ago with the push rod connected to the vent lid operating lever (item 38 in the first Moss diagram ) missing. I've tried replacement push rods but the spring (item 41) keeps bending them. Does the Moss replacement push rod work?
I don't use the car much in winter so it's no big deal to open the vent manually from outside with a plastic trim remover- my vent's spring would do justice to a bear trap.