Mike C
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Posts posted by Mike C
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Can you get at all the grill bolts through the air dam holes? From memory the one above the air filter was a bit difficult.
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1 hour ago, Scotland Director said:
Mike, I fear you are correct, next step is bonnet off, I’ve got one last chance, I’ve put a pair of mole grips on the cable holding the latch open, I can then get a cain on the latch from below the car, with an endoscope attached to the cain, maybe and it’s a long shot, I can give it an extra nudge to open. I suspect bonnet off is next job. I’ve got two goals, get the bloody bonnet off, but more importantly - what caused the problem in the first place ?
regards
Stephen
I have to say if the bonnet is locked because the lock body has trapped the head of the plunger it would be the first time I've ever heard of this happening.
Like many I can only wish you the best of luck and I wait with baited breath for the outcome.
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Can you get at the bolts at the bottom of the hinges through the air dam holes? Might have to remove the grill. Seemed the only way when I looked at my car in it's country garage last week.
You can't get through the headlights- the body shell is pressed around them.
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Have you tried rocking and moving the car or just the gear lever? It might free up with some torque reversals on the output shaft.
I agree with Roger, I'd take the top off while you have the tunnel out and confirm the selectors are working correctly.
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I had to coat both sides of the rubber gasket with Permatex No. 2 sealer and tighten the centre bolt up as far as I was game and then a bit more before the leak stopped.
The leak won't affect your oil pressure, mine also goes over 90 psi cold and maybe 40-50 hot - depending on how hard I've driven the car.
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"30secs to re-pressurise everything before trying to start up? "- I have a Bosch pump and I wait until I can hear it change note after a long period of inactivity before I crank the engine over.
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Make sure the heater pipe is clear of your throttle linkage. I have had case of the linkage jamming- but it only did it in the wide open position. Once.
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If you have an old ring take it to an industrial bearing supplier- they'll sell replacements in Viton - and order in if the size is not in stock. As Bruce says, most reconditioners will not sell their Viton components as spares.
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I'd assume that if the Pertronix only got 8V when running and it was supposed to get 12 V it would affect the ignition. I have a Pertronix I installed 15 years ago, it's given no problems since but I can remember going to great lengths to make sure it was installed strictly in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions- this took a bit of checking because systems with external ballast resistors, like mine , are comparatively rare outside of classic cars.
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What do the plugs look like?
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1 hour ago, AarhusTr6 said:
Serious - - fake plugs??
Richard
Fake NGK spark plugs have been a problem for at least the last 15 years:
http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/fake/index.html
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I use NGK BUR6ET resistive plugs out of consideration for people around me using car radios. I've never used my radio but my Pertronix Ignitor has lasted well.
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"the cable kind of remains out." Indicates the latch is jammed partially open and the spring can't return it.
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" when unscrewing give it a jerk to break the seal" - that's Blue Loctite 242, the Red Loctite 271 will need an oxy or gas torch to loosen
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I'd start with checking the timing- make sure it hasn't slipped.
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2 hours ago, John L said:
How old is the petrol, the new E5 petrol does go off, if has been left for a time, may be worth getting out what's in there out and try some new 98 in.
If the injector nozzle o rings leak a bit, it will allow fuel to drain back thru the non return valves in the MU.
John
Going stale is a real problem with modern 98 octane fuel. I added Stabil to mine yesterday as it won't get much use over winter.
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That and the gap on the MU cam is set at 6 to 8 thou. I've found that my PI engine is not a digital device like a modern car- it has a personality that has to be learned and understood. I restarted mine today after a month or so of coronavirus enforced vehicular isolation- it coughed after the second piston hit TDC- that's always a good sign- then I had to crank it again for maybe 3 or 4 revolutions before it started firing again on 2, 4 then all 6 cylinders.
After that it had heaps of power driving around town and the nearby hills and stopped and started easily. If I want to use it tomorrow I know it will start straight away. Because that is what it does.
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Have you had a look under the car at things like the clutch slave cylinder and front driveshaft universal joint?
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This happens to my car if I leave it for more than about a week. If I'm lucky , when trying to start after this time I can get it to fire quickly a few times on fuel that's retained in the system by starting with the throttle wide open - the short period of firing seems to throw a few quick pulses of fuel into the injector lines-my engine then dies but restarts fairly easily thereafter.
Are you sure your enrichment lever on the MU is correctly adjusted?
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The noise sounds like a major problem, but I have had the jumping out of gear and difficult gear shift synchronizing symptoms after a repair shop refilled my gearbox with GL5 gear oil rather than GL4.
Maybe a good idea to drain the gear oil and see what's in it, then refill with the gear oil of your choice- there's a lot of opinions on the best gear oil to use posted around on this forum.
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Maybe even try a desperate move like clamping the lock cable in the open position and driving down a potholed road on the chance the bonnet and lock might move enough relatively for the plunger spring to force the bonnet open.
Desperate times and all that.
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If you've exhausted all the possibilities of freeing the plunger by putting force on the back of the bonnet with the catch open I'd look at removing the 8 bolts that hold on the grille then removing the grille to get at the 4 bolts that hold the lower part of the hinges to the body where its stretched to form a bowl for the headlights. You have to move the bonnet to get the plunger sideways out of the locking hole. Horrible job , removing the grille may be difficult as these days many of the original bolting patterns have been substituted. You should be able to access the grille bolts through the holes in the front skirt under the bumper bar. Anyway this is the area I'm talking about:.
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That means that the back up lights are not getting a cross feed from any wire between the fuse and the lights - which increases the chance it's the gearbox switch. If you remove the carpet over the tunnel ( which may require removal of the H frame) you will be able to trace back the green wires Neil is referring to.
When measured to earth with a multimeter the wire to the reverse lights should go from some small resistance when the car's in reverse to infinite resistance in other gear positions. If it doesn't it's the switch.
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Just make sure the O/D doesn't engage in first or reverse. When I originally got my car it's O/D solenoid was wired with a feed directly from the battery - bypassing the inhibit switches.
TR6 braided injector lead replacement
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I've made lines in the past using the directions in the Lucas Red Book . The nylon pipe fitting clamp made I from 2 pieces of pine drilled with a 1/4"hole. Vitessesteve has the Red Book available here:
https://app.box.com/s/zz3e6x4gr4u7t360makeqbm0adxr4cu9
I did cheat a bit and heated the end of nylon pipe in hot water before fitting. A kit is available to do this at a reasonable price:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-PI-LUCAS-FUEL-INJECTION-INJECTOR-PIPE-KIT-TR5-TR6-2000-2-5PI/143215478496?hash=item21584ec6e0:g:B0kAAOSwCeFenBIS