Mike C
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Posts posted by Mike C
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Yes. Even in 1969 I couldn't imagine Triumph selling a car without covering the mess behind the ignition key panel. They're readily available.
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I haven't got one and I don't think the 2 recesses in the top of yours can be unscrewed to fit an oil cooler.
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I made one of these years ago. The 1/2' dia. hole latch lever and a tight pivot bolt stops it going overcenter. I can't remember where I found the web pages with this idea.
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You need to loosen the centre bolt and lower it as much as possible without fouling the clutch slave cylinder. One of the main advantages of a spin adapter is that they hold oil for start up if they are positioned so they are full of oil at start up.
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1 minute ago, Casar66 said:
I had the bonnet lifting twice: on my 1602 BMW and 10 years later again BMW, a 316. Catch at the back like the TRs. The bonnets went up around 5 - 10cm, that's all, nothing happened.
How hard were you braking? It's easy to see on a TR. Find a clear stretch of road, undo the bonnet catch and the hook , take it up to 100kmh or so and brake hard.
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45 minutes ago, harlequin said:
If the catch let's go at speed the bonnet will be lifted to a bit above drivers eye level by the slipstream over the bonnet and windscreen. Not a disaster but still dangerous.
George
That's what I thought as I drove home to adjust the latch after it sprung open . The unlocked bonnet was wafting up and down in the airstream .Aerodynamic forces were keeping the bonnet down. The bonnet was restrained by the hinges at the front- under hard braking, and as the speed dropped, the braking forces on the bonnet suddenly overcame the aerodynamic forces .The bonnet kept rotating after an upward waft and kept rotating- as the higher it lifted the more moment it's decelerating Cof G exerted on the hinges.
I hadn't expected this and I was lucky to have enough room to finish the braking in the emergency lane.
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7 minutes ago, Casar66 said:
Is the hook really essential? The restorer of my car made a very good and in depth restoration many years ago. He would never had cut off the hook without any reason and I am wondering why he did so. And what could happen in a worst-case scenario driving without the hook?
If the main catch works the hook is not needed. If the bonnet springs open and you are driving normally the hook is not needed. If you are driving along and the bonnet springs open and then you have to brake suddenly the bonnet will fly fully open and you have to ease off quickly on the brakes or drive along with the bonnet obstructing your view until you can reduce braking.
In my case it was quite unnerving because it was sudden and unexpected on a freeway.
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11 minutes ago, Rob Salisbury said:
Hi, If all else fails with the bonnet popping try this, remove the central striking pin (Pt No.611622) and check the shape of the shoulder that abuts the moving latch, it needs to have a fairly sharp edge and little or no downward slope, if it's got a rounded edge then the latch slips off and the bonnet pops, you can correct the shape using a hand file.
Cheers Rob
I did that and also made sure it was not overlubricated. This made an improvement but my own real problem was using the latch to try and help square up the bonnet.
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1 hour ago, Mk2 Chopper said:
Probably the same as mine, the hook is gone.
If this doesn't make it into the forum section of TR Action I don't know what will!
Gareth
My hook is gone as well. Only caused a problem once- when the bonnet sprang open while I was driving home due to a maladjusted plunger and then I had to brake at high speed. I've just made a note to check that the hook was replaced next time I see the car.
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I agree , check bonnet cones, rubbers each of the bonnet, make sure the plunger has no side force on it when the bonnet closes and check the latch has a square section spring. I bought a repro latch with a round spring opening force on cable connector =0.5kg, original latch with square spring=1.5kg. So I junked the new latch.
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Welcome. Your idling speed might be too low. I set my idling speed to 800-900 rpm to minimize low speed pressure pulses on the MU and throttle butterflies.
Make sure the bonnet is set to close with the plunger absolutely concentric on the latch hole- any attempt to correct bonnet gaps by using the bonnet closure operation to force the bonnet sideways will also leave it liable it to spring open when the body twists. Also if you have a repro latch it will have a round steel wire spring, these are much weaker than the original latches which had a spring made of square section steel. I guess Triumph had a reason back in the day to use the far more expensive square wire spring.
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6 minutes ago, barkerwilliams said:
After four years since his question I reckon the query just might be sorted by now!
Alan
Must have been, PandO's listed on the forum as owning a "1971 CP TR6 in Damson"
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26 minutes ago, stallie said:
Yep. I've got 2. 71 and 72.
But there's not many CP's left in Oz and those remaining are fairly tightly held. 25,000 pounds ( about AU$45000) would buy an average original RHD CP here with a type A overdrive. No TR6 bargains here, but then again the only salt on the roads is near the beach.
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7 hours ago, Alan packman said:
A cp with overdrive is the one to have, a low mileage car will have much more problems than a car that’s used more regular,
when a car is not used for many years the seals deteriorate, the water cristalizes, brake cylinders freeze and much more, I know I bought a cp that had hardly been used for 30 years, I’ve gradually replaced all deteriorated parts, luckily I had time on my hands and needed a hobby, now it’s a pleasure to drive, feels much more powerful that the supposed 150 hp, also 30 mpg on a long run.
+1. A CP daily driver in good condition is ideal unless you want a concours car. Note this is only true when the PI system is working correctly-"now it’s a pleasure to drive, feels much more powerful that the supposed 150 hp".
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4 hours ago, ntc said:
Simply not worth the hassle, dirt will be your enemy send them to Neil and know they are good.
+1. I get mine professionally rebuilt in Australia, you know the right components have been used and they are bench tested and sealed prior to dispatch. One less problem down the track.
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Does yours have an O ring in the cap instead of the rubber seal 12?
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That looks like my '69 PI except my locking tab is rounded.
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I was looking Austin Healey Le Mans style at when my bonnet kept springing open, but my problem was caused by trying to used the latch to "square up" the bonnet when it closed. Once I accepted that there should be no force on the catch when it closed my springing open problem went away.
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Made up longer brackets with a longer slot that effectively moved the edge the seat catch locks onto further back. Unfortunately I don't have the car here to get a good detailed photograph. Here's a section from an old, more general photograph.
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43 minutes ago, Scotland Director said:
What initially was a depressing fault has turned into a bonding and fault finding session with my 15 year old son, so actually enjoying the process. “When the wind blows, don’t just build shelter, also build windmills”. That’s been my windmill, closer to my son, it was really cool as he helped me with the digital stuff and I showed him some mechanical stuff, we’re both learning, which is cool, right ?
Stephen
Priceless. Many Dad's have sought to build a bridge to their son like your's and many have failed.
With my Dad it was helping him fix tractors on the farm. Most people these days don't live on farms with tractors but I'll bet your now glad you've got the TR6, even though it might have occasional problems.
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I've learned to be careful about changing PO modifications, there's generally a now unknown/forgotten reason behind them. Still I would have thought replacing a dodgy bonnet latch would have been a high priority fix , given the TR6 community's collective bad experiences with them.
Good luck. Hopefully you can lift the bonnet enough to get at the latch.
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On 5/31/2020 at 3:16 AM, AarhusTr6 said:
Hi
I followed this guide from a useful post from last year as tghe alignment was really bad - but can see how the gap is now wider on the seat??
The seat needs to be mounted on the runners CROOKED. The left hand seat needs to be rotated slightly counter clockwise relative to the runners, the right seat needs to be slightly clockwise relative to the runners.
Under the front edge of the seat on the runners you will find two ears sticking straight up. These ears mate with the corresponding ears on the seat frame that point down. If you look carefully, you will see that the ears on the seat frame have *two* holes, a forward and a rear hole.
Left Seat: Use the FORWARD hole on the left ear and REAR hole on the right ear to attach the seat to the runners.
Right Seat: Use the FORWARD hole on the RIGHT ear, the REAR hole on the left ear to attach the seat to the runners.
This will do a couple of things for you; get you clearance between the seat and the "B" pillar so you can access the seat belt, and it will align the seat latch with the runners so that you can latch the rear of the seat firmly to the runners.
Likewise for the bolts that mount the frame to the floor, you do not install the frame so that the mounting points are symmetric from side to side. If you do, the fore/aft travel on the seat is very limitedI had to do this to get my seats to fit (mod by tall PO?) , but the PO did not bother about the catches catching. I had to make up new plates for the catches to lock onto.
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Most times this has happened to me on older carbureted cars its been the butterflies not closing correctly or an air leak.
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Stuck closed bonnet
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I had a chance to look for the safety hook today. It's not there ! I don't know if a PO has removed it or Triumph made early CP's that way- I've seen other cars with no safety hook.
Anyway, to avoid any future excitement when braking hard I need to find and fit a second hand latch with a hook, or failing that get a repro one