Mike C
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Posts posted by Mike C
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3 hours ago, Keith Warren said:
Before I converted to EFI I fitted a heat shield between the injector pipes and the rocker cover also one between the metering unit and the block with another one between starter motor and block and moved the coil to the inner wing it did improve starting hot and cold engine.
Keith
+1 on moving the coil to the inner wing.
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Have a look at the starter's earths-sometimes when they get hot they develop a high resistance. I'd disassemble them and clean them back to bare metal contact faces then making sure the bolts are tight.
If the problem still recurs it could be the heat affecting your starter motor or starter solenoid. If you can reach the positive wire on the starter you can check it by giving it a direct feed from the battery with a jumper lead and the engine hot- if it cranks properly the problem lies elsewhere.
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I generally leave a trickle charger connected through a timer for about an hour a day top up charge. I have several cars and I boat I leave like that for 6+ months and the batteries last for years.
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8 hours ago, BlairP said:
Hello all; turning to the board in frustration.
I fitted a Bosch-type fuel pump and diaphragm PRV, and dialled in the pressure at 110 psi: no problem. To fully charge my injectors and injector lines, I hung the injectors vertically (to purge all the air) and ran the pump for 30 minutes, until fuel was spraying from all six. I re-installed them, and tried to start the motor: nothing. Removing the injectors to inspect them, I had next to no spray. So I re-attached the fuel-pressure gauge, and I'm now only getting about 20 psi of fuel pressure; adjusting the PRV makes no difference - the dial doesn't move.
Anyone got any thoughts? I'm stumped.
Thanks, Blair
Did all 6 injectors spray with the engine stationary?
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The booster pump idea was popular in Australia 40-50 years ago. The idea is to use pump with very good suction capability but generally a low head to make sure there is always good pressure at the inlet to the Bosch pump. From my old notes the pump is a Carter Universal P60504 but I don't know what's around now. Mount it as low down as possible under the tank , mine's alongside the spare wheel.
People on this forum have recently bought and installed Bosch pumps, and mounted them outside the boot- but that would make little difference to your heating problem- it's the H/E that has to be outside the boot.
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10 hours ago, Mike Heelis said:
Hi All, Can anyone help me on the subject of fuel in the tank heating up? The story goes that on a single 480 mile run down from Scotland my old Bosch fuel pump was cavitating on arrival home with just over a third of a tank of fuel. Foolishly I decided to change it for a replacement in the boot set up with a Sytec pump, Sytec bullet pre filter feeding through a Malpasi diaphragm PRV correctly set. On another long trip the car cut out due to the new set up overheating at half a tank (no pre warning cavitation). Not happy so I got a refund for that set up and fitted an outside pump and filter (from a reputable TR supplier) with the same arrangement. This also failed on overheat, but I sorted out the Low Pressure feed to the pump to obviate any requirement for the pump to suck. Out of interest I have fitted a fishtank temperature gauge to the outside of my fuel tank (with bluetack). Seems I still have the heating of fuel issue as on a 1 hour run the temperature at the tank gets up to 36 degree's C. I know the fuel has always warmed even with the Bosch pump as after parking the car post a good run the fuel gauge is always lower when I go to start up from cold again. Can anyone help by making suggestions of how I can prevent my fuel in the tank from heating up? It is not from the exhaust as I have put heat shielding above the silencer on the boot floor. I am running a Sytec HP 3979.1 pump fed through the Sytec Bullet and also a mainline pressure filter into the Malpasi set at just over 100 psi.
At the fuel systems/pump's curve operating point the Sytec pump is using more power ( and putting it into the petrol) than the Bosch pump. I'd check the Sytec pump isn't oversized. I'd check that the pump delivery pressure to the MU is correct as a first step.
Replumbing the pump to tank return line with a petrol/air heat exchanger outside of the enclosed boot is a bullet proof solution.
I get by with my PRV return line discharging into an alloy tank on the opposite side of the fuel suction line- petrol has to work its way across the tank before it is reheated by the pump. This works in Australian ambient's above 40 degC but I do use a Bosch pump with a Carter booster pump under the tank.
You've probably looked at this already, but is your fuel tank venting correctly?
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3 hours ago, Z320 said:
Mike, that's interesting!
I owned a supercharged MB 230 SLK from new / 1998 for 8 years / 170,000 km.
The only issue was after only 4 years the meanwhile well known cold soldering of relais K40, I repaired it my own.
The engine has an oil seperator too (of cause!), new it costs only about 20 Euro. A new one did not help?
Luckily our TRs have stone age engines an no MAF sensor
One problem less, on the other hand "some" other problems
Ciao, Marco
My old SLK is a keeper -I've owned it for 18 years, for me when I bought it it was like a modern day TR6 with a folding steel roof- the steel roof was important as I used it for work at the time. The oil separator is still there , it just discharges any crankcase vapours out alongside the gearbox rather than back into the engine inlet tract.
I like to simplify and improve cars - the TR6 has just had it's heater removed on the weekend- I'm going to recore/rebuild it and delete the cold air vents to the dash-I don't see any point in those at all in a convertible.
I guess I just like to simplify my cars back to what I consider to be important. But I'd never win a concours.
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You're old cover is beyond being fibreglassed?
The fit of replacement covers used to be a real problem.
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7 hours ago, ntc said:
And it’s built in by design again if it’s healthy no tank needed
+1. Most vehicle engines vented their crankcases directly to atmosphere until the late 1960's.
I have a supercharged MB SLK , these have real problems with oil contamination of the MAF due to crankcase venting- so I converted mine to direct venting to atmosphere about 10 years ago with no subsequent problems.
My TR6 would go the same way if I saw any evidence of crankcase pressure build up.
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8 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said:
That's the solution I'm going for H - vent to underside of car by the gearbox mount, so that the airflow takes the oily vapour away, rather than coating the underside of the bonnet.
I agree, but I still reckon with this system the catch can is redundant.
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The extent to which one should tweak and fiddle on a car is a very personal decision- each owner will have a different answer.
Don't forget back in the 1970's and 80's when TR6's were normal daily drives a lot of owners just drove them without any further consideration- and many still survived.
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When you check the oil level in the G/B check for metal particles in the old oil before adding any oil and , if you have an O/D check the solenoid is disengaging in reverse.
A louder than normal howl in reverse does sound serious- first thing I'd do is reverse with the bonnet open and check the engine for excessive movement, the gear stick could be binding on something when it's in reverse.
I personally like to check the easy potential causes before removing the G/B.
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My engine needs 10 inches of mercury vacuum on the MU to idle correctly at around 800-900 rpm. Yours might be slightly more.
You might need to throttle the vacuum gauge line to dampen out inlet valve pulses and get a steady reading.
Any vacuum much less than this indicates leakage past the throttle butterflies or somewhere in the inlet tract.
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Item 69 in this Rimmer's diagram is moving in and out of the rack?:
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID600179
I wouldn't drive a car where the pinion could disengage from the rack.
There's a sliding coupling and grub screw on the column just inside of the firewall , which if loose, will let the steering wheel move in and out an inch or so- but this doesn't affect the rack and pinion engagement.
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6 hours ago, Mk2 Chopper said:
You might have a vacuum leak around the throttle bodies, injector o rings, the balance pipes or the vacuum pipe to the MU causing different idle speeds.
Have you checked the throttle linkage is smooth and returning properly? Are the three throttle bodies balanced? Is the over rich lever on the MU set correctly and fully returned when engine is warm? Are you saying you've turned the three screws on the MU? Anti clockwise would lean it up, but it's not ideal trying to guess where it should be. Lastly if you take the vacuum pipe off the throttle body and suck it, then put your tongue to block the pipe you should feel pressure, if not the diaphragm could be leaking, which will cause an over rich condition. Check your plugs to tell how its running.
Lastly a lot of symptoms which appear to be the MU are ignition related. It's easier and cheaper to replace, plugs, leads, points, rotor arm (must be red distributor one), cap and coil. Check timing, valve clearance etc.
Gareth
+1. The idle problems look like a vacuum leak. Check the throttles closed vacuum for consistency with a vacuum gauge on the brake booster connection. The high speed miss is probably electrical.
Personally. I'd leave adjusting the MU settings to a Triumph PI specialist- the MU seldom changes its operation once properly set up and calibrated.
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12 years later...
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I have an old MB where I've replaced the original, complex crankcase ventilation oil recovery system with a direct vent discharging alongside the sump. I looked at installing a catch can but modifying the sump oil recovery system in any way is frowned upon so I might as well go the whole, zero back-pressure hog.
All the original oil recovery equipment is stored in the garage in case of a future roadworthy inspection.
Another option if the oil splattered engine is a real bother.
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Air horns can give a smooth air flow into a Webers throat but all engines work better if they're fed cold dense air.
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4 hours ago, Tim D. said:
Interesting observations. I have a wooden garage. By no means air tight, but have only experienced condensation on metal parts once. And that is despite spending the winters sorting out various under car issues.
timI've never had condensation occur on a garaged vehicle. For water vapour in the air to condense it has to contact a surface colder than the ambient air's dew point and that doesn't happen with freely vented car garages in Australia.
I have had condensation occur in garaged motor cycle's petrol tanks , where warm, high humidity air is trapped in the tanks and condenses out on cold nights, then the gets trapped under the petrol. Over months this can result in a considerable layer of water in the bottom of the tank and can rust the tank out.
But, most of all, I'm glad we don't salt our roads.
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An A type actuated in reverse sort of kicks a bit when the clutch is released -like something is sticking internally- that's what led me to investigate the wiring. Put enough power through it and the unidirectional clutch is destroyed.
I believe the J type is similar internally and can also be destroyed if operated in reverse.
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The interlocks on the gear selectors were the original protection logic circuits for the O/D's. Check that you're O/D doesn't engage in reverse, first or second- in a quiet garage you can hear the solenoid on the O/D unit click.
Mine , when originally purchased, was wired to engage in all gears by a previous maniac hillclimber owner.
I also installed an indicator light to confirm when the O/D solenoid is engaged.
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10 hours ago, CP26309 said:
At the end of the day our TR's are just Cars...now Very Old cars (unless you have recently rebuilt yours on a brand new chassis) whatever works for you is all you need to know! keeping these old cars running is what it's all about, in my case over 50 years and counting. It rides nicely and works as it should most of the time! Here endeth the lesson!
+1. And most owners now are older than the cars.
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If you want to sell later to the punters at large, red.
If you want to sell to someone that's discerning about what they buy pick a CP PI with an A type overdrive and the best body you can find.
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To avoid the petrol spills in future install a full bore stainless steel/PTFE ball valve in the suction line from the tank and only change the filter when the fuel level is below the PRV return line.
TR6 Gearbox cover
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I have several grommets/access panels in mine but for them to be useful they must be easily accessible. Avoid bolting the H frame over the carpets etc.