Mike C
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Posts posted by Mike C
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"they also don’t, as I understand it, drive if one wheel off the ground unlike the plate versions. "- Isn't the prime purpose of a LSD to drive both wheels forward regardless of each wheel's grip?
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18 hours ago, djp852795 said:
I am replacing my original ammeter with a new one but I find that there are only two ‘blades’ to connect to at the back - whereas there are four on the original -(Two brown and white off the same terminal)
Can I connect the two brown and white cables together ‘before’ they get to the new ammeter? - or rather how should I proceed connecting the wires as I can’t attach both the brown and white wires.
I’m conscious there is potentially a big current and I want to make sure all is well behind the dash before I put the Rev counter back.
Advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
I increased the charging capacity of my alternator and had to install a +/- 60 amp ammeter. You might consider doing the same if your ammeter's going off scale just after starting.
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1 hour ago, stuart said:
Do what I do and drill a hole trough the middle and weld a 1/4"UNF nut on the outside of them then its easy to just wind a long bolt through till it touches the stub and pushes the cap off. just fit a little plastic blank plug in after if your worried about any dirt ingress.
Stuart.
Good idea. I welded heavy washers on my caps and grip them multi grips for removal - it works but looks pretty rough.
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If you haven't done it before, I found removing the CP bearing caps without damaging them a bit of an art.
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3 hours ago, Andrew D said:
John, Thanks for the Google tip.
The Timken part Nos. are 03062/03162 and 07100SA/07210X so I will track these down at a local bearing stockist. Falling that, ABC in Boston or Bramers in Slough as per the 2009 Post. I also have an offer of help from Openroad in Newark. I think I have enough to go on for now and will report back with progress and results in due course.
Many thanks.
I always buy bearings from local industrial bearing suppliers. Given the damage a premature industrial bearing failure can do, these suppliers cannot afford to sell junk.
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48 minutes ago, Jonny TR6 said:
Whilst you’re under there, it would be useful to fit a fuel cut off tap so that you can change the filter in future, or fiddle with the system without flooding the boot with fuel.
You’ll need to extend the length of the tank outlet hole though as the tail lengths on the hose, tap and filter won’t fit in the short run that you have.
+1. I fitted a 1/2 inch SS /PTFE ball valve with appropriate brass reducers.
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2 hours ago, Waldi said:
Aha,
Thanks Andy and sorry Richard.
If you have a timing light (like a stroboscope), you can just crank the car on the starter to measure the static timing. Clamp the “sensor” of the strobe on the HT lead to cyl. #1.If you see no flashes at all, you probably have an ignition issue.
But even with wet plugs you should still see a spark.
Waldi
Yep A timing light will confirm you have an ignition pulse and if its occurrence is in the ball park required to fire the engine.
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If you have a timing light, I'd check to see if the timing is within a bull's roar of 11 degrees BTDC.
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1 hour ago, Motorsport Mickey said:
That's a drop of 5-10 lbs Mike, not too bad on a worn engine.
Mick Richards
Thanks I missed that. I thought the oil pressure dropped back to 5-10 lbs absolute pressure.
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5/10 lb at idle hot after a run? What grade of oil are you using, and what does it look like? You might have a stuck oil pressure relief valve.
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1 hour ago, Tim D. said:
You learn something new everyday.
Found this helpful article.
Which confirms this. Only negative for GL5 seems to be slightly higher wear rate of certain synchronmeshes.
Tim
I found the EP additives in GL5 made the oil too slippery- synchro's won't engage fast enough and second gear tended to jump out when decelerating. All returned to normal after I replaced GL5 oil with two successive changes of GL4.
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1 hour ago, TonyC said:
Connect a wire to the solenoid positive (the opposite connector to that going to earth) and run the cable into the cabin. Connect a 12 volt lamp to this cable and run the other side of the lamp to earth. Drive the car and select overdrive function in 3rd and 4th ie J type OD. If the light operates when engaging OD then the circuit is fine and the problem lies at the solenoid (unlikley if light operates in third and not in fourth) or beyond.
This is a relatively easy op monitor, allows you to 'see' what's happening as you drive the car and may just help you id other 'silly' issues before you start pulling switches and adjusting op levers. We found a rogue bullet connector adjacent to the steering column as cause for a similar problem on a pals 6.
Hope it helps. Good luck.
TonyC
My O/D wiring is so untrustworthy I've connected a permanent indicator wire directly to the solenoid terminal to confirm the 12V electrical signal is received when the O/D is switched on.
I found a green indicator light labelled "Overdrive" from a Land Rover supplier which doesn't look out of place mounted on the H frame.
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3 hours ago, Paulfc said:
Please excuse my ignorance, but I thought the J-type only operated on 3rd and 4th. Have I got this wrong?
+1. My understanding is that the J type could not withstand the torque levels in 1st or 2nd.
Note the wiring is worth checking- a previous owner had wired my A type O/D to engage in all gears, which included reverse.
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2 hours ago, Paul Hill said:
My Bosch pump is wired from the battery with an inline fuse into the relay then down to the pump. Carl Fitchett (TR Trader) said it’s the best way.
+1. With a large wire and generously sized fuse. Happy to take a large load off the dashboard wiring and feed the pump on a reliable 12V supply
I'm used to what the ammeter readings should be during start/run/lights on operation with this set up.
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Yep, might blow a bit of white smoke sometimes, but I don't think the filter would hold enough diesel to even do that.
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I wouldn't worry about a tiny amount of diesel added to a full tank of fuel.
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Can yo hear a click when you engage the O/D in fourth with the engine not running , ignition on.
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I've seen nothing to indicate that injection timing is critical and the fact that you've never noticed in two years says a lot. Check the ends of the nylon lines- mine have been stamped with the injector number.
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1 hour ago, KiwiTR6 said:
Took the car for a quick jaunt tonight after work and what a difference a new set of leads has made! Smooth power all the way to the red-line (where it has never been before during my ownership) with no hint of a misfire or pinking. However, as often happens with these old vehicles, the safety catch on the bonnet fell apart when closing the bonnet after adjusting the idle on my return. Never ending, but that is part of the joy of owning a classic car!
Gavin
Much better thread title.
A TR6 working well and on full song is a wondrous thing. Don't be tempted to run without a working safety catch- I did that once and had my bonnet fly open under hard braking.
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I don't think any inspection holes were fitted originally. I fibreglassed my original tunnel and had to cut my own.
If you install inspection ports make sure your carpet fitment is such that you can access the ports without removing the H frame.
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Wasn't it recently covered here?
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23 minutes ago, J R Martin said:
Anyone know where I can buy a Bosch Blue coil, they seem to be like hen's teeth at present and I need one for a spare?
Thanks
John
This one?
https://motociclo.com.au/product/ignition-coil-12-v-bosch-blue-guzzi-universal/
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7 hours ago, CK's TR6 said:
motorcycle flasher unit that beeps. works like a charm.
That's what I use. I had to cover mine with duct tape , as driving around town with the top down it sounded like a forklift.
LSD Advice
in TR6 Forum
Posted
"I turned one wheel and the other went in the same direction"- that's the test I use to check if a car really has an LSD fitted (some people have been known to tell porkies about such things).
If both wheels turn in the same direction there's an LSD fitted.