pfenlon
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Posts posted by pfenlon
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The speedo cable is new, and rotates when driven, but the speedo doesn't register at all, on removal the hole for the speedo cable, appears bigger than the square
on the cable, is there an insert thats missing please. TIA.
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Seats need what seats need, after a while being sat on.
Runners included, from a Californian TR250, asking £195 the pair.
Must be a good buy.
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Newly powder coated wheels 5.5J in an Anthracite grey.
With almost new Toyo 195 x 65 R15 tyres, which have covered only 200 miles.
All in very good order, asking £120 each, I have 4 in total.
Handmade centrecaps in aluminium. See pic.
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How true is it that some people say they cause the valves to stick?
Have you any info please.
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11 hours ago, iain said:
I’m intrigued…….the title of this thread is wheel nut safety. I’ll hazard a guess…..is the question because the wheels being fitted with wheels nuts means the stud are are short? (A problem seen when trying to use a wire wheel solid rear axle with steel rims.)
I do not like wheel spacers of any kind and find that my front wheels have been fitted with 2 per side. the front wheel nuts only screw on 4.5 times, which is not enough in my opinion, the rears more than double that. I will look to change the wheels for standard units.
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I was always under the impression that a nut must screw onto a bolt by at least the diameter of the bolt, for safety reasons.
Is that correct, or something that I dreamed up along the walk of life.
Any experts out there please.
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My 250 will not run properly under load, Carb mixture and timing is OK
No electrical problems evident, coil change tried, newly built engine so I am thinking the cam is incorrect.
How can I identify the cam in my car when I remove it please.
Running twin HS6 carbs, electric Facet fuel pump, struggling here!
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are these Canadian made wheels still being manufactured? and in what widths, would like to buy a set, but the prices wanted by UK sellers is unrealistic, considering
their age and need of crack testing etc etc, An alloy set would be good for road use, but cant locate a recent post regarding them.
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my recently completed TR250 has the plastic finisher in both front and rear screen rubbers.
The rear one is fine, but the front one is as loose as a pig in an entry, and doesn't want to get a permanent grip.
Is there a solution to this problem???????? T I Anticipation.
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Now fitted, not easy but the front holes over the bulkhead all lined up fine, but all the others didn't .
these 2 piece things are expensive, but no access for a gearbox top up, and poor access to the solenoid. cannot see the point. but after all the problems getting it to fit,
I just couldn't be minded to do any further mods.
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After hopefully fixing my leaking O/D actuating spindle leak, time to refit the old cardboard tunnel.
Sadly its had its day and now in the Bin. I bought a new 2 piece tunnel made from plastic, fitted the old rubbers, and the holes around the front hoop dont line up.
Are rubbers needed with this type of tunnel? are they a usual problem to line up properly????
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Have the O/D selector plate removed without a problem, the O ring seems in good condition, so refitting with new O rings is only a shot in the dark; to get it to seal properly.
Looking at all the other lads similar problems, thanks again to the kind members who pointed me toward "Triers" post, which seems to be the answer.
Will try and source the seals on monday. best Pete. Ouch,... mondays a Bank holiday...........
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On 7/17/2023 at 9:26 AM, John Morrison said:
Excellent info, a problem solved and the solution passed on to anyone who needs to know, JUST what our forum is all about.
Many thanks
John.
Without this forum I would just have replaced the "O" rings, and found the repair imperfect. So thanks very much to Trier for the information, much appreciated.
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Asking £100 in vgc, from Californian car
PM for details in the SK6 area of Stockport
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Having covered about 100 miles with my recently restored 250 I have an oil leak that appears to be coming from the shaft that the overdrive sol actuates, the unit, ie gearbox and overdrive was new and cost around 2K from a well known repairer.
I'm am reluctant to remove the whole unit, so my question is can I reseal this shaft with the unit in situ, `Has anyone done this before? I note from the drawing that seals are required which are available, see pics, and all help is appreciated.
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Thanks lads, now soaking in Still P's Cellulose thinners.......
Did look for Aerosol carb cleaner, but couldn't trace that particular brand.
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Am to fit a pair of HS6 carbs from a 2500 car to my TR250, they haven't been used for many years, I have had them soaking in petrol for about a week and are now reasonably clean. but in the float chambers there is the hardened remains of old fuel deposits which will scrape off, but is there a fluid that will properly dissolve this stuff.
I don't have an electronic shaker machine sadly, was thinking of caustic soda, but it will dissolve aluminium! Hoping to get a rebuild kit of sorts from Burlin, but haven't had a reply to my mail to them as yet.
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Am looking for an original type of master cylinder, where the cap of the unit is horizontal and not tipping forward like replacement aftermarket ones do.
Obviously will need recon which isn't a problem, TIAdvance.
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Have you a pair lurking miserable and unused, if so give me a PM please.
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Great glad it worked
best Pete
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Hello David I just bought some off Ebay dirt cheap and they look pretty good too. put in Carchoice on ebay and look at their seat belt set.
bought mine on ebay No 154556223210 but that number may be dead now.
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Seats need what 1968 seats need, seat runners are slightly surface rust only and move well.
Asking £125 for the lot, collection only from the SK6 area of Manchester.
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Yes Bob was a very kind soul indeed, always very nice to me, a rare member of Red Rose, if everyone could be the same as Bob , the world would be a better place indeed.....
Swap anyone?
in For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250
Posted
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